Trad Climbing on the 2nd pitch (The Pendulum) of Vertigo at Cannon Cliff, NH
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2013
- The 2nd pitch of Vertigo on Cannon Cliff (Franconia Notch) in New Hampshire. Unless your up for a 5.12 slab traverse, it's common to use a Pendulum during this pitch (15:52).
This was our first time on Cannon Cliff, and was my first time on anything considered a big wall. Hell of a fun day. Made a few mistakes but nothing serious. The entire climb is on video for anyone looking for beta.
Our videos of Vertigo:
1st Pitch, Eric leading - • First Pitch of Vertigo...
2nd Pitch, Me Leading (Eric's perspective) - • Seth doing the pendulu...
2nd Pitch, Eric cleaning - • Cleaning the pendulum ...
3rd Pitch, Eric leading - • Tired, weak, hungry an...
3rd Pitch, Me cleaning - • Vertigo - 3rd Pitch (D...
4th Pitch, Eric Cleaning - • Cleaning pitch 4 on Ve...
5th Pitch (the half-moon off width)
* me leading - • Seth leading the bruta...
* Eric cleaning - • Struggling up the half...
Cliff notes:
* I would extend the rope longer then I did during the pendulum. I ended up coming up a little short.
* I wasn't to found of the pendulum "anchor" being a single bolt. It looked solid enough, but there really isn't anywhere else to place anything. It looks like I have a free 1 foot draw/runner hanging there not attached to anything. I just used the biner on it to attach the webbing/cord to the rope.
* We ended up doing the whole climb in 5 pitches. We had intended to do it in 4, but I made a mistake in figuring our position during this video (17:03). Comments in the video explain this. This pitch can be combined with the next (what we made the third pitch), just make sure your leader is up for a good bit of climbing. If you're using a single rope, I'd recommend just doing it the way we did. 
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Once you've clipped both ropes into a single carabiner (twin rope technique), it isn't wise to clip them later separately (half rope technique). If you fall, one strand will go tight (last clipped) while the other stays slack. This could melt the sheath where they run against each other.
Good advice. Didn't know that but makes a lot of sense. Thanks!
awesome video. thanks for the content.
why do you climb? Warren Harding replies, "Because we are insane". fun climb, we should hit up some more climbs on that wall
fun stuff.
When the crack ends 45 feet up go up hard right reach up high right, leaving the slab you are on. Up right high mantle. Awkward, but its there.
When you climb on double rope, the ropes are not supposed to be twisted like that at 3:08. They have to be separated
The cut in the video at 3:32 is due to me waiting on my partner to untwist the ropes. However, another user commented on the care that needs to be taken when clipping both ropes into the same biner, which is a technique I wasn't employing when I did this climb.
What is harder cannon cliff or eagle cliff and the watcher?
What's the difference between red and blue?
+Ward Van Damme If you're referring to the red and blue ropes? The red rope was only clipped into the starting left of the pitch. Where as the blue rope is used for the right side after the swing obviously. This reduces the amount of rope drag when climbing because a single rope would end up zig zagging up the climb.
3:50 blue #.3 C4 magically becomes yellow #2 TCU
At 3:32 you can see the cut in the video. While I was waiting for my partner to get the ropes situated, I decided to give some attention to the placement. I felt the #2 was a better choice so I switched it out. In hindsight, I probably should have just left both.
FirstPersonBeta Can you give more insight on the doubling of microcams? do you do so often or only for crux placements?
It never hurts to double anything up but it's one cam less you have to use later on in the climb. If I'm on a climb I've never been on before (such as in this case), I tend to be pretty conservative in my placements. Conversely, I've gotten critique on some climbs about overly trusting a single placement or piton. It's a balance that comes with experience, I'm always adjusting. My mindsight now is attempting to evenly distribute everything on me on a single pitch.
Man, dangerous techniques... and, way too much bothersome jabber from the belayer...
wtf is that rats nest at 10:17??
What on earth is going on with his figure eight tie in loops. It looks like BOTH of them are untieing (and not even properly tied) and neither are backed up. (See at 15.26) SCARY!!! I thought this guy was doing well 'til I saw this. He seems to be an experienced climber, but WTF!! Is this some bizarre North American suicidal practice?!!
you can also tie the extra rope from the eight knot like that instead of making an extra stopper knot above the eight, it wont open either way
I believe it is called a figure of 8 with a "Yosemite finish". Keeps the extra slack out of the way and is easier to untie after being loaded.
As other comments below point out - they are each properly tied and with a Yosemite finish. Figure 8 doesn’t need a backup. The tail gets wrapped around the lead end and tucked through, leaving a loop like that give you something to grip and pull when untying. Especially helpful after it gets weighted during a lead fall or say, a pendulum.