Trad Climbing on pitch 2 of Carbs and Caffeine at The Gunks, NY
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2016
- It pains me to be posting this on Tuesday.
Mountain Project, the Gunks app, even the Williams Guide all give fair warning to taller climbers about the ending of this climb. Do I listen? of course not, I know better.
sigh
No doubt, an awesome climb but I'll reserve my review until after the Redpoint. If you're looking for the fall: • Trad Climbing on pitch... 
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Wow man, on the edge of my seat watching this one..... you were fairly run out there for a bit, was happy when you stuck two pieces in before that last stretch.... that last piece was taunting you!
Wow that was good dude
I have always been amazed how long you can hang out on overhanging terrain. Quite impressive.
That's the trick of leading 5.10 - 5.11 in the Gunks. You need endurance. You have to go up to the hangs, scope 'em out, pro them up, back down, try and get a rest, go up, take a stab, maybe two, pull them and move on.
When I made the decision to start leading 10s regularly in the Gunks I trained solely for endurance. I didn't want to go up to these overhangs and pump out and flail ... and maybe sketch my way through the crux. I wanted to CRUISE the cruxes. So endurance, endurance, endurance. By the time I got on Fat City Direct and Welcome to the Gunks I was able to cruise. I would feel a mild pump but never feel like the clock was ticking on me.
Also, when you've got major endurance, your foot-work remains solid. You don't panic. The feet are there for you.
The only issue I had was ... I got so good at hanging out that sometimes I would over-pro climbs. Like the time I did Reign of Terror (Skytop ... a long, long time ago) I thought, "Oooh, I can get another piece in here." I hung out, slid in another stopper ... but then when I did the move ... I realized I was hanging out IN THE CRUX to place the piece. I should have just done another half move and I'd be done and at the stance!
Oh well. There's a lot to be said for climbing those steep 10s and 11s and never feel sketched or panicky.
@@NickFalacci man you are humble
Robert Hunt @RobertHunt Not sure why the sarcasm. Yeah, I’ve climbed a bunch of 10s and 11s but back then the climbers I hung out with were climbing harder. Also, that was then. I’m nowhere in shape to do that stuff now.
My main message was ... anyone who puts in the work can reap the rewards. Anyone who trains hard and focuses on endurance will be able to eventually cruise all those routes I mentioned. And back then, plenty of people did.
Other than that, my message was “I’m a weeny.” I started all that enduro training specifically because I didn’t like getting scared on lead. I was the opposite of a bold climber. Which is the reason I mentioned my lead of Reign of Terror. It was a great lesson for me to learn that it’s not always the right thing to rely on your endurance capacity. Sometimes you do need to be bold and make that extra move or two.
Anyway, hope you’re climbing, climbing at the Gunks and having a great time doing so! Cheers!
NickFalacci well your comment came off as very unhumble but this one has a bit more context and humility 👌
Robert Hunt you are so self centered you think everyone else has the same motive, hope you have had some personal growth since posting this comment. Peace.
THANK YOU FOR THE GUNKS!!! Early 80s I was told about it. Saw pictures, read articles about it. It was somewhere I destined to go at the age of 16. I never made it there. I went the direction of wife and kids.
Lol, I sure made it it there!
You have NO IDEA, the worth that your footage of a most pristine area means to me!!! The one on one experience you're bringing to me of the GUNKS!
Man, thank you so much!
On top of it, you guys are an awesome team! It's beautiful for Somone to watch "who knows the ropes" Lol. You guys are great climbers. Wish I could see the balett on rock from a second person. I know by the way you move, and how easy you make it seem, that your exceptional. A drone would work, lol.
Just saying, I understand with all that is being recorded, there are worlds missed, both by your belayer, and the climber!
Totally greatfull for you both, and all your channel allows me to see! THANKS BROTHERS! Climb on, david
Next time, just grab the anchors with your teeth. ;)
Seriously though, when you yelled "falling", it didn't freak me out much. I immediately thought, "He's very well protected." Way to take the fall. Loved watching the whole thing.
So intense! Heroic climb! So glad when you got those two pieces in...
This was my second gunks 5.11 lead and 4th 5.11 ever. My heart is pounding watching this, giving me flashbacks
That fall! Looked awesome man
I just love watching your videos! (y)
Great climb and great fall!
Keep sending!
Yeah man, I’d would been so pumped out half way up if hung out like you do. It blows my mind lol.
Love your videos. I find myself leaning out in my chair to get a better view over the overhangs! LOL.
You also seem to hitting a number of climbs that were still on my tick list when I left the Gunks for LA. Like I had done Yellow Wall several times but never did Carbs. (Same with CCK Direct and Le Teton.) The climbing until the last bit looks fantastic! Also, it seems like your protection skills have shot up as well. Maybe that's just me.
Is that anchor in the way of a hold in the crack? Is it just a gnarly awkward power move to grab something high? Looks like it's all over once you nail that move.
God damn ... I have got to get back in shape and get back to the Gunks. These videos are so damn inspiring.
Pisses me off to some extent. I did No Man's Land ... Yellow Wall ... The Sting ... even lead Scary Area P1 after top-roping it. But the rep of Carbs kept me from going up there for too long. The climbing looks just wonderful. Look like a much better climb than No Man's.
Also ... some day ... Tiers of Fears ... though that one looks like it has a major whipper if you miss the dyno.
Hey man, it's August 2017. You going back up on this puppy this fall? Can't wait to see the redpoint!
so darn nice
A proud effort! You made it through the technical crux on your first try. I think you would have made it if you'd only slapped your right hand around the corner. So close!
Nice fight there!
that hung up biner at 14:03 gave me nightmares bro! But damn....you can hang on. great footwork and endurance.
Chris Graham Wow, this video has been a year now and I never noticed that. Certainly don't remember it. Good catch. Though I'm not sure why I didn't just extend the one already in place.
you snapped her back in shortly thereafter! Done most of those routes and love the gunks. Love living vicariously through your videos! Keep them coming brother!
Holy hell, what a whip
Good effort! You can pretty much bite the chains! Ha!
Sweet.
Does the chalk on these holds just stay through the seasons? Or do you go through the route before hand and chalk up the key holds? Always wondered how the rain and weather doesn't effect the chalk on the rock
The massive roofs protect the faces from getting washed out with every rain.
Now this route looks much harder than those two 12s I saw you do down in Kentucky....and it is a full grade lower.....just goes to show how arbitrary grading is....nice job mate!
wich difficulty is this?
Come discover climbing in NB!
I've always wondered why I think that, but, is placing BD cams in horizontal cracks less effective and/or harder on the cam's integrity (as in, if you take falls on gear placed in horizontal cracks, you'll wear it faster) ? Thank you, climbing community :)
It's fine, a majority of people who climb regularly in the Gunks place C4s in horizontals on almost every climb. Our cams last for a long time. Just like every cam, inspect it after a fall and make sure its structurally sound.
@@brianrosenthal1399 one note: if your fall has placed a kink in the wire at all near where it's crimp/soldered into the cam, just retire it.
24:56 fall
Stronger caffeine required.
2:52 i bought my first friend and on the paper ther is written this is illegal 😅😂🙈...in any case 5.11b?
what gear would one need for most redrock trad climbs? Epinephrine?
Hate to see it.