I would only add here that although this tumbler method with the hex nuts is a great idea, make sure your hex nuts are clean and dry before adding them to your solution. They will come from the factory with anti corrosion coating of some sort without a doubt. Light machine oil or the like. Coated or not, this will be true. Wash them is water and dish soap. Shake the hell out them in a plastic jar. Rinse them and dry them by swinging them around in a clean shop towel or tea towel or what have you before using them in this manner. Brilliant video though. I love the mineral spirit idea. Seems to make it very workable especially for instrument finishing.
Thanks, Doug. Ya know, I never considered that. But you are right. Luckily, in my case, there was no trouble from whatever anticorrosive was used. But had I thought of it. I would have degreased them. Viewers, I recommend you heed Doug’s advice here.
I've been mixing my own shellac from scratch and experimenting with on scrap wood this past week and came across your video. Prior to this week I had just used shellac as a sealer prior to other finishes. These pads/cloths are fantastic for wiping on shellac, why this method is not more widely known is beyond me. I can't decide to shout it from the mountain tops or keep it as our little secret. My next guitar I will try this for the entire finish and buff it out with plastic polish.
@@frankvucolo6249hi Frank - I liked the video overall and got some good things out of it. I especially liked the coffee grinder and nut agitators to speed up making a new batch of shellac. It is difficult to get a smooth application in corners with a pad, but I keep a small, soft brush handy to get the edges started. I worry about rags and the potential for fire, partly because I have forgotten to hang them out properly in the past.
John I would not use shellac as a finish on a guitar unless you’re building it for display only. Shellac will not stand up to the use that a guitar would see. If you want a hand rubbed finish you can polish out look at using Tru-oil. Much better suited to the use you are thinking of.
HI,@@bobbymccourt6794 . Not looking to start an argument or anything, however shellac is a fine guitar finish which is used quite a bit in acoustic building. I have used it on several with great results. I've also used Tru-oil which is a fine finish too. However, I'd never use it on an acoustic soundboard though, either shellac or Nitro Lacquer because they will flex more that other finishes allowing the top to vibrate the way you wanted when you tuned it when shaping the braces.
Came across this today. I’m shellacking beams in my log cabin and was looking additional tips before I got started . You’re secret ingredient was my first thought mixing up the shellac today: “this needs something like spray paint cans have to help mix the flakes: maybe some ball bearings?🤔” then I saw your 5/16-18 nut truck 😂 thanks for sharing!
That is a great idea to add mineral spirits to the shellac to slow its drying. I use shellac to finish my wood bowls and have had a problem of uneven coverage which requires lots of sanding to rectify. My wife uses Handi Wipes for dish washing cloths. Looks like I'll try these for my applicator. Great tips!
Frank.. I am gonna be frank... This is the best tutorial on Shellac!!! Thank you and well presented and the sutble stick out tongue at the so called experts did not go unnoticed :)
very nice video Dad was my greatest teacher. he used shellac from flakes all the time . he used marbles as a mixing aid in his jars never saw him filter it though . thanks for sharing ...well done
That was so helpful. thank you. I became hooked on shellac after watching stumpy nubs cover basic finishing products and this video fine tuned so mistakes I was making. I'm going to give the alcohol you used a try too.
Frank, thanks for the directions for the mixture. Frank was my grandfathers name - he was the one who taught me how to " pound nails and saw wood " when I was 5 years old!
Frank was my grandfather’s name, too. But it was my dad who taught me to hammer and saw... and roof and wrench and lots more. He was a Master Sargent, a mechanic in the US Army Air Corps during WWII. Had to work smart and be creative to get planes back in the air. He is no longer with us, but, coincidentally, today is his birthday.
I have a guitar sealed and ready to go. I was going to spray the shellac, which is also ready to go, since wiping is such a touchy effort. HOWEVER, your mineral spirit approach seems like a no brainer and definitely worth a shot. Kinda like a poor man’s french polish. I will definitely report back on how it goes. Thanks for the tip!
@@frankvucolo6249I did use this method and there’s a bit of a learning curve but it’s definitely effective. Once I was done there’s no spiriting off since the mineral spirits evaporate. That in itself is a huge bonus since a french polish is only as good as the spiriting off sessions.
I second mauriceton motion for best shellac tutorial. Adding nuts to the mixing container is genius. The squeeze bottle with mineral spirits is a great way of dispensing. Much better than an old cup with plastic wrap on the top.
Hi Frank- thanks for the best shellac instruction i have seen. The thing i miss most about moving to Florida is the membership and meetings of CJWA. I can’t recall ever leaving a meeting without learning something useful. Ok I don’t miss the weather or the taxes.
Thanks for the nice comment. CJWA is a great club. We all learn from each other - mentioned a couple in this video! I’m sure I know you, but can’t tell from the screen name. Hope you are enjoying Florida. Might not have CJWA there, but you also don’t have snow blowers and shovels!
I am just starting a finish using flakes and alcohol. How I wish I heard Wilbur's comment before I used the big box store variety. Your home made wiping shellac sound wonderful and I will use a few scraps to see how it works. Many thanks for your insightful explanations
Hi Rob. Thanks for watching. Good luck with your shellac work. We both know that Wilbur is one smart dude. Except that he planes and saws backwards… but no one is perfect 😉
The dental vibrator is a great idea. Gonna keep an eye out for something like that. The hex nuts was a great idea also. I am surprised that the mayo jar held a seal for you. Thanks for the video, I found it very useful.
Unless I’m mistaken, this video should include a warning about the Handi Whipes having a potential for spontaneous combustion because of the mineral spirits. Not having to worry about that like you do with so many finishes is one of the big pluses for shellac IMHO.
Hi Charles Thanks for watching. I used 1.5oz, by weight, of shellac flakes to 8 fluid ounces of solvent. I then combine 3 parts of the resulting shellac to 1 part mineral spirits to get the wipe on solution. The synthetic steel wool I use is from Norton. I keep burgundy, gray and white in the shop. The white is “0000” the gray is “000” and the burgundy is courser, though I don’t know how it is designated. I’m not sure where I bought it, but a google search brings up many sources. Good luck with the finishing!
Great video and instruction, very informative! I'm getting ready to finish some hard maple stools and intend to use the Zinsser Amber as the first coat because that produces the precise color I'm looking for. Would the mineral spirits also help a brushing situation?
Glad it was helpful! The mineral spirits might give you some time to feather over and smooth your brushing as you go, but I’ve never tried it. Over the years, I’ve settled into wiping thin coats for the best overall appearance.
@@rbeachy206 I wouldn’t be thinking faster. Maple is tight grain, it will fill fast enough wiping thin coats. My recommendation would be 3-4 coats wiped on day 1. Next day, knock it down lightly with synthetic steel wool to get the nibs and dust off. Repeat 3-4 coats. Next day knock it down lightly with synthetic steel wool again and wax it. But everyone had a different idea about finishing :)
I had my project all sanded and ready for finish when I discovered your video. I had sanded to 400 grit, but I'm wondering if that's too fine for a wipe-on shellac finish?
I use 99% isopropyl alcohol, which also dissolves shellac well. I crushed all the shellac flakes by a rolling pin before adding alcohol and keep stirring when I add alcohol. I found orange / garnet shellac harder to dissolve and the color is a bit uneven. I have to filter them before use.
Thanks for this video Frank! I'm looking to add a light color to some pickwick (knotty pine) boards I just got and will be installing in our house soon. The clear Zinser shellac doesn't have enough color/tone to it and the amber is darker than we'd like so I'm thinking of trying the blonde on the knotty pine. Curious if you've ever used that on pine before and , if so, how did you like it? I also wonder if pre conditioning the pine and doing a custom stain mix might work?
@@dmosier83 hi Dean. I’m not much for stain. I like to get the color from the wood and the tone from the finish. I would make a sample board and try a few shellacs. Take a look at a range from Garnet(darkest) to blond. Then try some blends until you hit what you are looking for. You can also get some tone in the end with a darker, more orange or clear wax. More art than science. Especially since pine itself can vary in color. Keep in mind, too, that pine will darken over time. Good luck!
@@dmosier83 hi Dean. I’m not much for stain. I like to get the color from the wood and the tone from the finish. I would make a sample board and try a few shellacs. Take a look at a range from Garnet(darkest) to blond. Then try some blends until you hit what you are looking for. You can also get some tone in the end with a darker, more orange or clear wax. More art than science. Especially since pine itself can vary in color. Keep in mind, too, that pine will darken over time. Good luck!
Your video is one of the best delivered and most informative videos i have seen on you tube! I have always love using shellac as a finish because you can build depth to the finish and never knew I to mix mineral sprits with it to make a wipe on finish. I have never used flakes and the problem I always have is finding a can of Seal Coat that is not out of date( not older than 6 months). What is the shelf life of the flakes and how do you de-wax the flakes?
Thanks for watching and commenting! I don’t think the flakes themselves expire. So you can keep them for many years, sealed tightly in the bag. I do. It’s nice to know, after many hours of work on a project, that you are using freshly mixed shellac, the composition of which you can control. I by de-waxed shellac flakes.
Hey, thanks for this video. Had a couple questions if you don't mind. 1. Did you ever explain why you put the nuts in the jar with the shellac?. If so, I missed the explanation. 2. I hear some people say to wait several hours between coats for shellac, so I'm confused now because I heard you say wait 10 minutes. Thanks!
Hi Adam. Thanks for watching. The nuts are just agitators. They keep the solids from bunching together so that they get into solution more quickly. I put a second and third coat on right away, after the prior coat dries. That gives me a “build” that I let cure overnight. I rub that out the next day and proceed with another 3 coat build. I repeat that process until I get the finish I’m looking for. There are a lot of ways to do things in this craft, and seldom is there one right way. When you come across a way that works for you and brings you good results and satisfaction, that’s the right way for you. Good luck with the shellac, my friend!
@@frankvucolo6249 thank you Frank, I appreciate the response. If I could ask one follow-up question, when you are transporting a piece that you have finished with shellac, what do you wrap the piece in?
@@frankvucolo6249 hey Frank, sorry one follow up question. Do you re-mix shellac in the same glass jars after you've used the jar once? After finishing what's in the jar, there's usually some dried shellac at the bottom of the jar and I just want to make sure it wouldn't be an issue to reuse the jar. Thanks!
I just put the flakes in alcohol and it eventually dissolves without a grinder or shaker or metal nuts. But I can see where all the extra work can be fun.
Thanks Andrew. I never heard of d-limonene so googled it and see where it is used medically for cholesterol and otherwise for orange fragrance. How would it apply to shellac?
If you are using mineral spirits, you may as well just used denatured alcohol, too, because mineral spirits is petroleum derived & worse than denatured alcohol additives in the US. In other countries, I don’t know. But denatured alcohol is fine if you are mixing it with mineral products anyway.
Hi Totemo. I will keep using the same pad for the day. You can resold to get fresh areas. But I toss it at the end of the day and use a fresh one for the next series of coats.
I don’t like working with denatured alcohol. I actually use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (which is pretty harmless - basically just rubbing alcohol) which I buy on Amazon pretty cheap (about $18/gallon with shipping). Works just as well - although the initial dissolution is faster with the behlen. I use a magnetic stirrer so I just make sure to do it far enough in advance and leave it (generally dissolves in a few hours to overnight with the stirrer). There’s actually a recipe online for making a water based shellac (using alkali to make it dissolve). Supposedly it works, although I have not tried it. What does the mineral spirits in this mix do? If you omit it, how does it affect the process?
Hi MD. Thanks for watching. And thanks for the isopropyl suggestion. I’ve never tried it. Maybe others have and can comment. What the mineral spirits does is it keeps the shellac workable longer while you wipe it on. It prevents you from “dragging” on areas you go over that would have dried some. Not so relevant on the little test piece I used, but on a larger table top or,chest side, for example, you want that extra time.
Bob, did your experiment take into consideration container wall flex in a plastic vs. glass jar, lighting conditions and the prevailing price of eggs in South Dakota? I find this comment to be a little nutty. 😁
Mineral spirits I like that to fix the problem with applying shellac. You never named and nobody here seems to have asked it or I missed it what is the product you used for a pumice to do a french polish?
Hi Adam. Disclaimer: I don’t use much in the way of dye or stain. I try to let the wood selected dictate the color. You have to be disciplined on stock selection for uniformity of color - especially walnut and cherry. Most of my dye or stain experience comes from interior mill work or repair work. That said, I would allow the dye to dry overnight for water based dye, or a few hours for alcohol based dye. You might want to check Homestead Finishes website to do a little research.
@@frankvucolo6249 thank you! And then one other thing I was just curious about. I usually have an issue with the shellac sticking to the bottom of the jar when I'm making it and letting it sit overnight. I started doing your method of using the coffee grinder on the chips and that's working great, but the shellac will still clump up towards the bottom for a few days. Is there anything else I can do to prevent this? I don't have that fancy vibrating machine that you have lol
You’re welcome, Adam. Well, you hit on exactly why I built this contraption. Best to mix your shellac at a time where you are going to put in some shop hours. This way you can give it a shake by hand every 15 minutes or so. And you can add nuts even if shaking by hand, to agitate the unresolved shellac. If you can park your jar on anything that vibrates, even a little, like a window AC, dehumidifier, small fridge… it will help, especially with agitators in the jar.
Hi VP. I have no experience with finishing a ring. I presume you are referring to a ring you wear on your finger. Shellac would not be a good choice because it might come in contact with alcohol - from a drink, a cleaner, a pre moistened hand wipe, etc. Perhaps a durable varnish like Waterlox or Liberon would work. Maybe another viewer can chime in from experience.
For the non American viewers can you tell me what is the chemical in the Brand name can? Also what is your Mineral Spirit? We seem to have different names for the same chemical, depending which country one lives in. The grey pad looks like Scotchbright, which comes in various grades and is colour coded for coarse or fine, used a lot by machinists finishing lathe turning various metals. Thanks for sharing your techniques. Tasmania 42 South-down under.
Thank you for watching, Shevill - and for the comment! Here is the Safety Data Sheet for Behlen Behkol Solvent ardec.ca/media/catalog/msds/B650-2816_CA_GHS_SDS_English.pdf which includes the contents. It is primarily ethanol alcohol. Here is a link to some information on shellac solvent www.shellac.net/alcohol.html. Mineral spirits is mainly used as a thinner for oil based paint. A google search will link you to the contents. As used in my process it is not a solvent for the shellac. It’s purpose is to act as a lubricant because shellac dries so fast that it wants to grab or drag as you wipe it. I find the mineral spirits gives you the needed working time to wipe on the finish. And yes, Scotchbright is a brand of synthetic steel wool I am familiar with. So, while I am not familiar with how products are named outside the United States, perhaps other viewers might chime in on that matter.
Hello Muhammad. Thanks for watching. I have no personal experience using isopropyl alcohol with shellac, but from all I hear and read, the short answer is no. The product I use is primarily (91%) ethanol. It contains only 4% isopropyl. Commonly available denatured alcohol is similarly composed. Here is a link to a good conversation from Fine Woodworking on the subject: www.finewoodworking.com/forum/isopropyl-or-denatured-alcohol. As for the ratio. One pound of shellac dissolved in one gallon of solvent creates a “one pound cut.” You can adjust that formula to create the “cut” you desire and the amount of solution you wish to make. I prefer a 1.5 pound cut and make 8 ounces at a time. That equates to 1.5 oz of shellac by weight to 8oz of solvent by volume. The cut you mix will be a compromise between flow out and build. I find that a 1.5 pound cut flows out nicely and builds up adequately. You will get more build with a 2 pound cut (theoretically requiring less coats) but it will not flow out as nicely when applying. Otherwise stated, a 2 pound cut will be more difficult to apply easily than a 1 pound cut but will leave a thicker coat. Anything over 2 pounds and you will be dealing with streaks, brush marks and a clumpy, uneven finish. You then spend a lot of time flattening between coats and effectively erase the advantage of your thicker build - with a lot more work and worse results. Keep in mind that shellac is generally used in woodworking when you desire a fine finish. So multiple coats with a 1.5 pound cut is what will get you there. If you want to do a quick job with a faster build for a more utilitarian piece, just don’t use shellac. I go to a polyurethane or varnish that I will brush on or can spray (see my Electronics Tool Box Video.) Hope this helps. To my friends out there who use the metric system, sorry for the imperial measurements. I’ll let you do the conversions to grams and liters because I would probably screw it up!
Will any mineral spirits do, or did the good doctor also recommend a certain vendor for that, because they do sell a Shellac reducer under the Mohawk/Behlen brand? Also, Behlen makes a shellac retarder B503-00025, are you familiar with that product?
Hi Dee and thanks for watching. No, the doc didn’t have any warnings on the mineral spirits, so I think it’s good - as long as you don’t drink it :) I am not familiar with shellac retarder. But now I want to check it out. Have you tried it?
If one was taxed with the mission of presenting this in as short a time as possible, I think you could have completely summarized this entire thing in about two minutes, and I could have been back from the hardware store already.😉 But thanks for the tips!
Thanks for watching, Joe! Most people like a little detail and “conversation” in a video. In addition to showing “how to,” I like to show what one knucklehead (me) thinks about the things we do. And maybe that will inspire others to not just do, but to think on the things they do and be creative. Make it better. Move it forward.
Very rude comment lad.....you’re the kinda fella just wants to see the end of the movie....no beginning...or middle ....just an end.....you should apologize to this gentleman who sacrificed his time to share his skills
No I haven't, came upon it researching what's available in the market, like you, seems very interesting, and it goes without saying, will be of interest to your followers/viewers. Many vendors list it out of stock, except here, shellac.net/product116.html. Also, Woodcraft give additional info on its usage. woodcraft.com/products/behlen-solar-lux-retarder-pint. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
Thanks, Dee. Very interesting. I can’t believe I have never heard of this before. Found another source, Restorer’s Choice. But they are in Australia. I will probably not experiment with it because I am so satisfied with the mineral spirits approach. But if you do (or anyone else reading this,) please comment here.
This is without a doubt the best tutorial on Shellac on RUclips. Thank you.
I would only add here that although this tumbler method with the hex nuts is a great idea, make sure your hex nuts are clean and dry before adding them to your solution. They will come from the factory with anti corrosion coating of some sort without a doubt. Light machine oil or the like. Coated or not, this will be true. Wash them is water and dish soap. Shake the hell out them in a plastic jar. Rinse them and dry them by swinging them around in a clean shop towel or tea towel or what have you before using them in this manner.
Brilliant video though. I love the mineral spirit idea. Seems to make it very workable especially for instrument finishing.
Thanks, Doug. Ya know, I never considered that. But you are right. Luckily, in my case, there was no trouble from whatever anticorrosive was used. But had I thought of it. I would have degreased them. Viewers, I recommend you heed Doug’s advice here.
I've been mixing my own shellac from scratch and experimenting with on scrap wood this past week and came across your video. Prior to this week I had just used shellac as a sealer prior to other finishes. These pads/cloths are fantastic for wiping on shellac, why this method is not more widely known is beyond me. I can't decide to shout it from the mountain tops or keep it as our little secret. My next guitar I will try this for the entire finish and buff it out with plastic polish.
Glad this worked for you, John. Go ahead and shout it from the mountaintops. Share the video. Tell your friends.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing!
@@frankvucolo6249hi Frank - I liked the video overall and got some good things out of it. I especially liked the coffee grinder and nut agitators to speed up making a new batch of shellac. It is difficult to get a smooth application in corners with a pad, but I keep a small, soft brush handy to get the edges started.
I worry about rags and the potential for fire, partly because I have forgotten to hang them out properly in the past.
John I would not use shellac as a finish on a guitar unless you’re building it for display only. Shellac will not stand up to the use that a guitar would see. If you want a hand rubbed finish you can polish out look at using Tru-oil. Much better suited to the use you are thinking of.
HI,@@bobbymccourt6794 . Not looking to start an argument or anything, however shellac is a fine guitar finish which is used quite a bit in acoustic building. I have used it on several with great results. I've also used Tru-oil which is a fine finish too. However, I'd never use it on an acoustic soundboard though, either shellac or Nitro Lacquer because they will flex more that other finishes allowing the top to vibrate the way you wanted when you tuned it when shaping the braces.
I used Everclear instead of denatured alcohol when I lived in PA. It was cost effective and it worked exceptionally well.
I have friends who use Everclear and swear by it, too.
Came across this today. I’m shellacking beams in my log cabin and was looking additional tips before I got started . You’re secret ingredient was my first thought mixing up the shellac today: “this needs something like spray paint cans have to help mix the flakes: maybe some ball bearings?🤔” then I saw your 5/16-18 nut truck 😂 thanks for sharing!
Awesome! Good luck with the project.
That is a great idea to add mineral spirits to the shellac to slow its drying. I use shellac to finish my wood bowls and have had a problem of uneven coverage which requires lots of sanding to rectify. My wife uses Handi Wipes for dish washing cloths. Looks like I'll try these for my applicator. Great tips!
Thank you. Good luck with the bowls.
Frank.. I am gonna be frank... This is the best tutorial on Shellac!!! Thank you and well presented and the sutble stick out tongue at the so called experts did not go unnoticed :)
very nice video Dad was my greatest teacher. he used shellac from flakes all the time . he used marbles as a mixing aid in his jars never saw him filter it though . thanks for sharing ...well done
Thank you, hoof trim.
That was so helpful. thank you. I became hooked on shellac after watching stumpy nubs cover basic finishing products and this video fine tuned so mistakes I was making. I'm going to give the alcohol you used a try too.
Very useful, on seeing I added 4 M10 nuts to a mix I started earlier straight in as flakes, it mad it mix in much better just doing that. Cheers.
Frank, thanks for the directions for the mixture. Frank was my grandfathers name - he was the one who taught me how to " pound nails and saw wood " when I was 5 years old!
Frank was my grandfather’s name, too. But it was my dad who taught me to hammer and saw... and roof and wrench and lots more. He was a Master Sargent, a mechanic in the US Army Air Corps during WWII. Had to work smart and be creative to get planes back in the air. He is no longer with us, but, coincidentally, today is his birthday.
I have a guitar sealed and ready to go. I was going to spray the shellac, which is also ready to go, since wiping is such a touchy effort. HOWEVER, your mineral spirit approach seems like a no brainer and definitely worth a shot. Kinda like a poor man’s french polish. I will definitely report back on how it goes. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for watching, Joe. Good luck with the guitar. Please do report back. I’m curious to know how you make out.
@@frankvucolo6249I did use this method and there’s a bit of a learning curve but it’s definitely effective. Once I was done there’s no spiriting off since the mineral spirits evaporate. That in itself is a huge bonus since a french polish is only as good as the spiriting off sessions.
I second mauriceton motion for best shellac tutorial. Adding nuts to the mixing container is genius. The squeeze bottle with mineral spirits is a great way of dispensing. Much better than an old cup with plastic wrap on the top.
Thank you, Art!
Hi Frank- thanks for the best shellac instruction i have seen. The thing i miss most about moving to Florida is the membership and meetings of CJWA. I can’t recall ever leaving a meeting without learning something useful.
Ok I don’t miss the weather or the taxes.
Thanks for the nice comment. CJWA is a great club. We all learn from each other - mentioned a couple in this video! I’m sure I know you, but can’t tell from the screen name. Hope you are enjoying Florida. Might not have CJWA there, but you also don’t have snow blowers and shovels!
We don’t have to shovel sunshine!
@@snh_lname You need a shovel to get rid of all the mud and other goodies after a hurricane hits.
I am just starting a finish using flakes and alcohol. How I wish I heard Wilbur's comment before I used the big box store variety. Your home made wiping shellac sound wonderful and I will use a few scraps to see how it works.
Many thanks for your insightful explanations
Hi Rob. Thanks for watching. Good luck with your shellac work. We both know that Wilbur is one smart dude. Except that he planes and saws backwards… but no one is perfect 😉
The dental vibrator is a great idea. Gonna keep an eye out for something like that. The hex nuts was a great idea also. I am surprised that the mayo jar held a seal for you. Thanks for the video, I found it very useful.
Thanks for watching, Michael. The mayo jar is plastic and held up,well.
Try a magnetic stirrer, you can get one for cheap
I like the vibrator mixer idea. Don't know as I need it, but I like it. Lol I will remember it.
Fantastic information, thanks!
Unless I’m mistaken, this video should include a warning about the Handi Whipes having a potential for spontaneous combustion because of the mineral spirits. Not having to worry about that like you do with so many finishes is one of the big pluses for shellac IMHO.
Thanks for watching, Chipster. How did you like the video?
Thank you.
Great explanation of the process. Can you tell me again the ratio of the shellac flakes ? And where did you buy the "synthetic" steel wool?
Hi Charles
Thanks for watching.
I used 1.5oz, by weight, of shellac flakes to 8 fluid ounces of solvent.
I then combine 3 parts of the resulting shellac to 1 part mineral spirits to get the wipe on solution.
The synthetic steel wool I use is from Norton. I keep burgundy, gray and white in the shop. The white is “0000” the gray is “000” and the burgundy is courser, though I don’t know how it is designated. I’m not sure where I bought it, but a google search brings up many sources.
Good luck with the finishing!
Great video and instruction, very informative! I'm getting ready to finish some hard maple stools and intend to use the Zinsser Amber as the first coat because that produces the precise color I'm looking for. Would the mineral spirits also help a brushing situation?
Glad it was helpful! The mineral spirits might give you some time to feather over and smooth your brushing as you go, but I’ve never tried it. Over the years, I’ve settled into wiping thin coats for the best overall appearance.
@@frankvucolo6249 Do you think I could wipe a 2 lb. cut (thinned Zinsser Amber)? That would help build the color faster.
@@rbeachy206 I wouldn’t be thinking faster. Maple is tight grain, it will fill fast enough wiping thin coats. My recommendation would be 3-4 coats wiped on day 1. Next day, knock it down lightly with synthetic steel wool to get the nibs and dust off. Repeat 3-4 coats. Next day knock it down lightly with synthetic steel wool again and wax it. But everyone had a different idea about finishing :)
I had my project all sanded and ready for finish when I discovered your video. I had sanded to 400 grit, but I'm wondering if that's too fine for a wipe-on shellac finish?
@@rbeachy206 you’re fine, beachy.
You can probably use a rock tumble machine to turn your jar for the shellac instead of the dental vibrator. It would probably work a bit better
Good idea. Never thought of that!
I use 99% isopropyl alcohol, which also dissolves shellac well. I crushed all the shellac flakes by a rolling pin before adding alcohol and keep stirring when I add alcohol. I found orange / garnet shellac harder to dissolve and the color is a bit uneven. I have to filter them before use.
Good idea - rolling pin! Never thought of that.
Thanks for this video Frank! I'm looking to add a light color to some pickwick (knotty pine)
boards I just got and will be installing in our house soon. The clear Zinser shellac doesn't have enough color/tone to it and the amber is darker than we'd like so I'm thinking of trying the blonde on the knotty pine. Curious if you've ever used that on pine before and , if so, how did you like it? I also wonder if pre conditioning the pine and doing a custom stain mix might work?
@@dmosier83 hi Dean. I’m not much for stain. I like to get the color from the wood and the tone from the finish. I would make a sample board and try a few shellacs. Take a look at a range from Garnet(darkest) to blond. Then try some blends until you hit what you are looking for. You can also get some tone in the end with a darker, more orange or clear wax. More art than science. Especially since pine itself can vary in color. Keep in mind, too, that pine will darken over time. Good luck!
@@dmosier83 hi Dean. I’m not much for stain. I like to get the color from the wood and the tone from the finish. I would make a sample board and try a few shellacs. Take a look at a range from Garnet(darkest) to blond. Then try some blends until you hit what you are looking for. You can also get some tone in the end with a darker, more orange or clear wax. More art than science. Especially since pine itself can vary in color. Keep in mind, too, that pine will darken over time. Good luck!
Thanks !
Great video. Somebody recommended to add some cellulose thinner to the shellac. Is it something you would recommend?
Thanks! I have no experience with cellulose thinner, but interested in knowing more if anyone out there, who does know, would care to comment.
Your video is one of the best delivered and most informative videos i have seen on you tube!
I have always love using shellac as a finish because you can build depth to the finish and never knew I to mix mineral sprits with it to make a wipe on finish. I have never used flakes and the problem I always have is finding a can of Seal Coat that is not out of date( not older than 6 months). What is the shelf life of the flakes and how do you de-wax the flakes?
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I don’t think the flakes themselves expire. So you can keep them for many years, sealed tightly in the bag. I do. It’s nice to know, after many hours of work on a project, that you are using freshly mixed shellac, the composition of which you can control. I by de-waxed shellac flakes.
@@frankvucolo6249 thank you very much frank!
This is a nice tip - thanks! Will this also work with pre-made amber shellac? I have some maple that I want to get a nice antique honey finish.
Hi Jazz. Yes. This will also work with pre made shellac.
Hey, thanks for this video. Had a couple questions if you don't mind. 1. Did you ever explain why you put the nuts in the jar with the shellac?. If so, I missed the explanation. 2. I hear some people say to wait several hours between coats for shellac, so I'm confused now because I heard you say wait 10 minutes. Thanks!
Hi Adam. Thanks for watching. The nuts are just agitators. They keep the solids from bunching together so that they get into solution more quickly.
I put a second and third coat on right away, after the prior coat dries. That gives me a “build” that I let cure overnight. I rub that out the next day and proceed with another 3 coat build. I repeat that process until I get the finish I’m looking for. There are a lot of ways to do things in this craft, and seldom is there one right way. When you come across a way that works for you and brings you good results and satisfaction, that’s the right way for you. Good luck with the shellac, my friend!
@@frankvucolo6249 thank you Frank, I appreciate the response. If I could ask one follow-up question, when you are transporting a piece that you have finished with shellac, what do you wrap the piece in?
Hey Adam. No difference transporting a piece finished in shellac - very durable finish. But I use old bath towels and/or a moving blanket.
@@frankvucolo6249 hey Frank, sorry one follow up question. Do you re-mix shellac in the same glass jars after you've used the jar once? After finishing what's in the jar, there's usually some dried shellac at the bottom of the jar and I just want to make sure it wouldn't be an issue to reuse the jar. Thanks!
@@adamthewoodworker2571 hey Adam. Never gave it much thought, but sure. You can clean up the jar with some fresh alcohol and reuse it.
I just put the flakes in alcohol and it eventually dissolves without a grinder or shaker or metal nuts. But I can see where all the extra work can be fun.
Thanks for watching, Rand. Eventually is the key word.
Use a magnetic stirrer and you make shellac in about an hour or so.
Yup. Same idea. Multiple means to unfur a feline.
I like that idea. It would certainly be less noisy than an agitator.
Brilliant idea. Could you use d-limonene instead?
Thanks Andrew. I never heard of d-limonene so googled it and see where it is used medically for cholesterol and otherwise for orange fragrance. How would it apply to shellac?
If you are using mineral spirits, you may as well just used denatured alcohol, too, because mineral spirits is petroleum derived & worse than denatured alcohol additives in the US. In other countries, I don’t know. But denatured alcohol is fine if you are mixing it with mineral products anyway.
Does the mineral spirits slow down the drying time ?
Hi Barry. No, the shellac dries as normal and the mineral spirits evaporates. Thanks for watching.
@@frankvucolo6249 thank you ! Your method is about one of the best I’ve watched!!
When you do it normally, do you keep the same square of rag, or do you make a new one because of the dried shellac on the old one?
Hi Totemo. I will keep using the same pad for the day. You can resold to get fresh areas. But I toss it at the end of the day and use a fresh one for the next series of coats.
@@frankvucolo6249 Thanks!
You said you were using 1.5 ounces of shellac flakes on the scale but I think you meant 1.5 grams correct?
Hi Jersey. No, ounces is the measurement I was using. Not grams.
Sorry Frank I was wrong I was thinking that was liquid like volume and not weight. Thank you for answering. @@frankvucolo6249
Wood turners call that Shine Juice
Very pleasing experience to apply finish on the lathe!
I don’t like working with denatured alcohol. I actually use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (which is pretty harmless - basically just rubbing alcohol) which I buy on Amazon pretty cheap (about $18/gallon with shipping). Works just as well - although the initial dissolution is faster with the behlen. I use a magnetic stirrer so I just make sure to do it far enough in advance and leave it (generally dissolves in a few hours to overnight with the stirrer).
There’s actually a recipe online for making a water based shellac (using alkali to make it dissolve). Supposedly it works, although I have not tried it.
What does the mineral spirits in this mix do? If you omit it, how does it affect the process?
Hi MD. Thanks for watching. And thanks for the isopropyl suggestion. I’ve never tried it. Maybe others have and can comment.
What the mineral spirits does is it keeps the shellac workable longer while you wipe it on. It prevents you from “dragging” on areas you go over that would have dried some. Not so relevant on the little test piece I used, but on a larger table top or,chest side, for example, you want that extra time.
Another great choice is to use drinking alcohol at 95 to 100 proof. It's food safe! It also produces a more stable shellac ( lasts longer in the jar).
@@boooshes Ethyl (drinking) is the best but it’s expensive due to taxes.
I mix my own flakes also. What do you gain using the Mineral spirits? I know it evaporates fairly quick. ???
Hi longdriver. The mineral spirits gives you some more time so you can wipe on the shellac without it starting to dry, causing the pad to drag.
I’ve gotten the best results using 1/4” hex nylon nuts. I find the 5/16 a bit too big because it disrupts the stir.
Bob, did your experiment take into consideration container wall flex in a plastic vs. glass jar, lighting conditions and the prevailing price of eggs in South Dakota? I find this comment to be a little nutty. 😁
@@frankvucolo6249 I’m sensing a bit a sarcasm- I’ve never received such a shellacking before. Now you’ve stirred up a hornets nest.
@@bobwhelk2117 all in good fun, Bob. Shellacking! Very good.
@@frankvucolo6249 ruclips.net/video/UVj8rWGIcAA/видео.html
Mineral spirits I like that to fix the problem with applying shellac. You never named and nobody here seems to have asked it or I missed it what is the product you used for a pumice to do a french polish?
Thanks for watching. It’s just pumice stone. You can find it at Lee Valley. Mohawk is one of the brands.
Thanks Frank for answering you're very kind. I will pick some up and work with it.@@frankvucolo6249
Hi, I wanted to come back and ask another question. How long do you think I should wait after applying a dye to wood before applying shellac?
Hi Adam. Disclaimer: I don’t use much in the way of dye or stain. I try to let the wood selected dictate the color. You have to be disciplined on stock selection for uniformity of color - especially walnut and cherry. Most of my dye or stain experience comes from interior mill work or repair work. That said, I would allow the dye to dry overnight for water based dye, or a few hours for alcohol based dye. You might want to check Homestead Finishes website to do a little research.
@@frankvucolo6249 thank you! And then one other thing I was just curious about. I usually have an issue with the shellac sticking to the bottom of the jar when I'm making it and letting it sit overnight. I started doing your method of using the coffee grinder on the chips and that's working great, but the shellac will still clump up towards the bottom for a few days. Is there anything else I can do to prevent this? I don't have that fancy vibrating machine that you have lol
You’re welcome, Adam. Well, you hit on exactly why I built this contraption. Best to mix your shellac at a time where you are going to put in some shop hours. This way you can give it a shake by hand every 15 minutes or so. And you can add nuts even if shaking by hand, to agitate the unresolved shellac. If you can park your jar on anything that vibrates, even a little, like a window AC, dehumidifier, small fridge… it will help, especially with agitators in the jar.
What is the best finish for wood ring?
Hi VP. I have no experience with finishing a ring. I presume you are referring to a ring you wear on your finger. Shellac would not be a good choice because it might come in contact with alcohol - from a drink, a cleaner, a pre moistened hand wipe, etc. Perhaps a durable varnish like Waterlox or Liberon would work. Maybe another viewer can chime in from experience.
Thank you very much for your answer. How about tung oil and boiled linseed oil options? Or beeswax on top after shellac?@@frankvucolo6249
For the non American viewers can you tell me what is the chemical in the Brand name can? Also what is your Mineral Spirit? We seem to have different names for the same chemical, depending which country one lives in. The grey pad looks like Scotchbright, which comes in various grades and is colour coded for coarse or fine, used a lot by machinists finishing lathe turning various metals. Thanks for sharing your techniques. Tasmania 42 South-down under.
Thank you for watching, Shevill - and for the comment!
Here is the Safety Data Sheet for Behlen Behkol Solvent ardec.ca/media/catalog/msds/B650-2816_CA_GHS_SDS_English.pdf which includes the contents. It is primarily ethanol alcohol. Here is a link to some information on shellac solvent www.shellac.net/alcohol.html. Mineral spirits is mainly used as a thinner for oil based paint. A google search will link you to the contents. As used in my process it is not a solvent for the shellac. It’s purpose is to act as a lubricant because shellac dries so fast that it wants to grab or drag as you wipe it. I find the mineral spirits gives you the needed working time to wipe on the finish. And yes, Scotchbright is a brand of synthetic steel wool I am familiar with. So, while I am not familiar with how products are named outside the United States, perhaps other viewers might chime in on that matter.
Mineral sprits is known in UK influenced countries as white spirits.
can we use isopropyl alcohol 99% pure as solvent for shellac?...
what ratio should i choose to make this solution?
Hello Muhammad. Thanks for watching.
I have no personal experience using isopropyl alcohol with shellac, but from all I hear and read, the short answer is no. The product I use is primarily (91%) ethanol. It contains only 4% isopropyl. Commonly available denatured alcohol is similarly composed. Here is a link to a good conversation from Fine Woodworking on the subject: www.finewoodworking.com/forum/isopropyl-or-denatured-alcohol.
As for the ratio. One pound of shellac dissolved in one gallon of solvent creates a “one pound cut.” You can adjust that formula to create the “cut” you desire and the amount of solution you wish to make. I prefer a 1.5 pound cut and make 8 ounces at a time. That equates to 1.5 oz of shellac by weight to 8oz of solvent by volume.
The cut you mix will be a compromise between flow out and build. I find that a 1.5 pound cut flows out nicely and builds up adequately. You will get more build with a 2 pound cut (theoretically requiring less coats) but it will not flow out as nicely when applying. Otherwise stated, a 2 pound cut will be more difficult to apply easily than a 1 pound cut but will leave a thicker coat. Anything over 2 pounds and you will be dealing with streaks, brush marks and a clumpy, uneven finish. You then spend a lot of time flattening between coats and effectively erase the advantage of your thicker build - with a lot more work and worse results.
Keep in mind that shellac is generally used in woodworking when you desire a fine finish. So multiple coats with a 1.5 pound cut is what will get you there. If you want to do a quick job with a faster build for a more utilitarian piece, just don’t use shellac. I go to a polyurethane or varnish that I will brush on or can spray (see my Electronics Tool Box Video.)
Hope this helps. To my friends out there who use the metric system, sorry for the imperial measurements. I’ll let you do the conversions to grams and liters because I would probably screw it up!
@@frankvucolo6249 99 % isopropyl does not contains water,so you can use it
I have to use it here in Cali works good!!
Yes! but make sure it's 99% - it's what I've been using here in California
just get a bottle of everclear
I think we call 'mineral spirits' turpentine
Nah, turpentine is made from pine tree sap. Mineral spirits is different.
In UK influenced countries mineral spirits are called white spirits.
@@macmcatee611 OK Thank you
Will any mineral spirits do, or did the good doctor also recommend a certain vendor for that, because they do sell a Shellac reducer under the Mohawk/Behlen brand? Also, Behlen makes a shellac retarder B503-00025, are you familiar with that product?
Hi Dee and thanks for watching. No, the doc didn’t have any warnings on the mineral spirits, so I think it’s good - as long as you don’t drink it :) I am not familiar with shellac retarder. But now I want to check it out. Have you tried it?
why not just add more alcohol as thinner
It will start dragging on you right away.
If one was taxed with the mission of presenting this in as short a time as possible, I think you could have completely summarized this entire thing in about two minutes, and I could have been back from the hardware store already.😉
But thanks for the tips!
Thanks for watching, Joe! Most people like a little detail and “conversation” in a video. In addition to showing “how to,” I like to show what one knucklehead (me) thinks about the things we do. And maybe that will inspire others to not just do, but to think on the things they do and be creative. Make it better. Move it forward.
Very rude comment lad.....you’re the kinda fella just wants to see the end of the movie....no beginning...or middle ....just an end.....you should apologize to this gentleman who sacrificed his time to share his skills
Um ah
Why not use Everclear? That's what I'm using-190 proof as recommended.
Yes, that works, too, as I understand it.
No I haven't, came upon it researching what's available in the market, like you, seems very interesting, and it goes without saying, will be of interest to your followers/viewers.
Many vendors list it out of stock, except here, shellac.net/product116.html.
Also, Woodcraft give additional info on its usage. woodcraft.com/products/behlen-solar-lux-retarder-pint.
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
Thanks, Dee. Very interesting. I can’t believe I have never heard of this before. Found another source, Restorer’s Choice. But they are in Australia. I will probably not experiment with it because I am so satisfied with the mineral spirits approach. But if you do (or anyone else reading this,) please comment here.