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@@user-pv4jo4tn1j interesting. My arbor flange is on the right, with the nut on the left. Guess it varies by make and model saw.

@@Hybridog thanks for the update! That would explain why supply was sketchy and these were hard to find. I like all the upgrades. Hopefully the Oliver cutter head is as good as the Byrd. I like that they kept it a helix and didn’t cheap out to a segmented cutter head. So are you getting one? If you do, check back here and let me know your thoughts.

Thanks for the update on the model number

@@dmosier83 hi Dean. I’m not much for stain. I like to get the color from the wood and the tone from the finish. I would make a sample board and try a few shellacs. Take a look at a range from Garnet(darkest) to blond. Then try some blends until you hit what you are looking for. You can also get some tone in the end with a darker, more orange or clear wax. More art than science. Especially since pine itself can vary in color. Keep in mind, too, that pine will darken over time. Good luck!

@@dmosier83 hi Dean. I’m not much for stain. I like to get the color from the wood and the tone from the finish. I would make a sample board and try a few shellacs. Take a look at a range from Garnet(darkest) to blond. Then try some blends until you hit what you are looking for. You can also get some tone in the end with a darker, more orange or clear wax. More art than science. Especially since pine itself can vary in color. Keep in mind, too, that pine will darken over time. Good luck!

@@rbeachy206 you’re fine, beachy.

Glad it was helpful! The mineral spirits might give you some time to feather over and smooth your brushing as you go, but I’ve never tried it. Over the years, I’ve settled into wiping thin coats for the best overall appearance.

@@frankvucolo6249 Do you think I could wipe a 2 lb. cut (thinned Zinsser Amber)? That would help build the color faster.

@@rbeachy206 I wouldn’t be thinking faster. Maple is tight grain, it will fill fast enough wiping thin coats. My recommendation would be 3-4 coats wiped on day 1. Next day, knock it down lightly with synthetic steel wool to get the nibs and dust off. Repeat 3-4 coats. Next day knock it down lightly with synthetic steel wool again and wax it. But everyone had a different idea about finishing :)

Thanks Len. I second your idea for Oliver to send me money!

Good for you, William. It is a joy to use. I did notice that about the dust port (after the review) and it is inconvenient taking it off if you need to fold it up to store (as I do.) I swapped out the thumb screws for hex head cap screws. I keep a dedicated ball driver with the planer now for fast swap out of the port. Not ideal, for sure. But manageable.

where did you find it in stock?

​@@danieljoseph5582 My Woodcraft had 2.

Glad to hear the reviews helped you. Too bad about the bad DRO, but good to hear Oliver was responsive, helpful, and stood behind it. I’m loving this tool!

@@frankvucolo6249 Seriously, you did a great job highlighting the tool and showing the features while being mindful of other’s preferences and or budgets. Thanks again.

Thank you. If you watch to the end, you will see that all the edges trimmed nicely and the panel fit the door and the finished piece perfectly.

Good idea - rolling pin! Never thought of that.

Thank you, John

Thanks Vince. Same here. Ohhhh veneer!

I have friends who use Everclear and swear by it, too.

Hi Jazz. Yes. This will also work with pre made shellac.

Great question, and the answer is yes. That said, I have not personally done a radius of that size. I have done a radius of around 18” and larger (think bow front tables.) so the challenge would be to get good enough adhesion on the first part as you wrap the substrate and before the glue on the rest of the surface dries. You may have to refresh/reheat the glue a couple of times as you work around to re-liquify it (just brush on more hot glue like I did when I refreshed the seam.) This method was around since the time when all veneers had to be cut by hand. So thick veneer is no problem. That said, thicker veneer will have more spring back as you wrap your substrate and will be harder to get down. I’d shoot for no more than 1/32” if you can. If you can get some commercially available quarter sawn oak veneer, it would be around 1/50” and might be your best option. Don’t know how much you need, but it would be fairly inexpensive. Hope this is helpful. Good luck with your project!

Thanks for watching, ibex. That’s funny! Sorry I broke the cat. I ordered a wireless lapel mic. Maybe that will help. I’ll have to work on my audio editing next. I’m clueless. But so glad you found the video helpful.

I’ve had a sawmill for about three years now, and I’ve saved up a good bit of lumber for random projects. I got my Oliver planer about a month ago, and it’s Been awesome so far.

Thanks for watching, Brad. Shop vac is going to fill fast from a planer.

@@frankvucolo6249 Ahhh gotcha. I thought you meant it didn’t work well. I suppose what you say is true depending on the size of you shop vac!

Would most shop vacs even be able to keep up? I think it's min 300CFM. Most shop vacs look like 100CFM.

Thanks for watching, Art. You should see all the clips on the cutting room floor of me going back and forth!

Good luck to you, DJ. Hope you find one in stock without too much trouble. But if not, it’s worth the wait! Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching, DJ. Stay tuned.

DjLooN, check out the revised laguna px 12. they are currently offering them with a revised helical cutterhead that addresses some issues with the earlier units. it is the same base machine, GeeTech, as the oliver. the only difference is that it doesn't have the wixey digital gauge (i picked up an igaging DRO for $39) and uses a helical cutter with carbide cutters. an excellent deal at $449 right now.

@@onelove1472 the Laguna planer’s new cutter head is the one I showed in the video. It is an in line segmented cutter and not helical. It did replace the old one which I believe was recalled. Wonder if they are going to discontinue this planer because you are right, it is a steal at $500.

Thanks! I have no experience with cellulose thinner, but interested in knowing more if anyone out there, who does know, would care to comment.

Beat clamps, by far. I gotta find more. I actually bought 12 of the last ones made before they closed. And, dude, you got a serious Oliver!

@@frankvucolo6249 Yes I have a lot of them, around 200, I have been buying them for 30 years, until they shut down, I got lucky about a year ago and found someone selling 100 of them to add to my collection. Best clamps ever made, Yes my Planer is amazing I love it, too bad Oliver isn't in business anymore either.

Thanks for the great feedback. I’m a use, care and maintenance geek when it comes to my power equipment, so will take your advice. Now if I could only try the darn thing out! Nothing but a couple of 1-2 inch snow falls since I bought it last year.

@@frankvucolo6249 Perhaps the biggest tip I didn't mention is to make sure to run the engine out of fuel by turning the fuel lever to 'off' after each session. Running the carb dry prevents any kind of fuel gunk build up. I learnt this one the hard way but since I've done this I've never had any issues with any of my Honda power equip[ment in over 10 years.

@@HollomanUFOLanding If available, use straight gas instead of the ethanol "planet saving" garbage. My 2000 724 has had no fuel related issues since new.

@@charlesbeall2589 Hey there. I use straight gas but add an appropriate amount of Staybil to it. I use that mix on all my Honda power equiupment. After use, I turn the fuel supply to 'Off' and then run the engine out so there is no fueld in the carb. Having the ability to shut off the fuel to the carb like that is such a great Honda feature. I've left some of my power equipment to sit drained like that fior 6 months + with no issues upon restarting. I have the electric start version so I use a battery tender out of the snow season.

Yes, it’s great when you find a good product you can like and trust out there. Now I have my eye on the Capri stubby combination set.

Thank you, Stephen.

That’s what got me started on this. Got a new patio and the wife wanted all new lights. I had replaced one prior and used the wood and paint. Had to scrape and repaint that one. Not really a big deal, but like I said. Got me thinking. I guess the builders can save a lot of money by shortcutting this when they are finishing up the house. In the spring, I plan to go around and do dryer vent, range hood vent, outlet boxes and gas pipe, too.

Thank you, Art!

Thank you, Art!

Thanks. Yes I did.

Almost everything is from China and obviously for most things the quality varies. I never seen a Honda engine that has even come close to letting me down. They’re bulletproof regardless of where they’re made, their engineering and quality control is second to none and not a person on this planet will argue that.

Thank you Tina. Very kind of you. I’m glad you found it helpful.

Hi VP. I have no experience with finishing a ring. I presume you are referring to a ring you wear on your finger. Shellac would not be a good choice because it might come in contact with alcohol - from a drink, a cleaner, a pre moistened hand wipe, etc. Perhaps a durable varnish like Waterlox or Liberon would work. Maybe another viewer can chime in from experience.

Thank you very much for your answer. How about tung oil and boiled linseed oil options? Or beeswax on top after shellac?@@frankvucolo6249​

Thanks Andrew. I never heard of d-limonene so googled it and see where it is used medically for cholesterol and otherwise for orange fragrance. How would it apply to shellac?

Hi Totemo. I will keep using the same pad for the day. You can resold to get fresh areas. But I toss it at the end of the day and use a fresh one for the next series of coats.

@@frankvucolo6249 Thanks!

Thank you, Scott. I never got the chance! No significant snow last winter. Was a good and bad thing. Keep thinking I lost a year of warrantee :)

⁠Well I finally pulled the trigger and picked up the exact same model this weekend. Can’t wait to hopefully not need to use it!

@@scottw1148 congrats and good luck. I think weather we use it or not this winter, we win. But I cannot recall ever going two winters. In fact, last winter was only the second in over 20 years where I did not need a snow blower.

Thank you Vince.

Nah, turpentine is made from pine tree sap. Mineral spirits is different.

In UK influenced countries mineral spirits are called white spirits.

@@macmcatee611 OK Thank you

Thanks for watching, Chipster. How did you like the video?