Has anyone checked on Evapo-Rust? He didn't even show up for rehearsals. Holding out for his own spin off? Drinking problem finally got the best of him?
I have a more recent ones that I recall have an impedance of 4000 Ohms, bought them for when I was making a crystal radio…well, strictly speaking it was a varicap diode radio, but generally same concept.
Excellent work on these. The best soldering hack for you if you don't know is to tin (solder) the wires and terminals before you join them. That way the process happens a lot quicker and easier and you get a smooth clean joint.
This is my favorite restoration channel. You do a great job and try not to cut corners. Plus you point out materials of interest, and talk about things you didn't expect/not sure what to do with. Seriously, great job.
Thankfully you put them on your head at the end. Because of the banana's terrible performance this episode, I had no idea how large or small these headphones were till the very end!
Hey Patch doesn't surprise me, look at the tech inside, they are very basic, probably best not to wear them in the rain tho unless you want to cut down on your need for enegy drinks to keep you alert.
That coating reminded me of some old mirrors in the bathroom I had to redo. Used some paint stripper to take off the protective coating (think I used DCM based stripper), and then got some off the shelf Muriatic acid from the pool section to help with the silver coating.
Do not think they would have sounded very good at doing stereo. Maybe if some really thin felt washer was placed between the diaphragm plates and the aluminum housing. Cut out the buzzing that some stereo notes would have caused.
Yes. They are 2 identical transducers. Simply using a stereo jack plug would work fine. We did it with some similar cans years ago in work (BBC sound) just for a laugh.
@@sonofeloah what the hell do you mean stereo notes? Each driver would be getting a mono signal just like before, only each would be a different signal.
I'm glad to see you used your tumbler to help with the finish on these headphones. As soon as I saw them I thought they would be perfect for Rolling Stones.
I restored an old pair of headphones almost like the ones you’ve restored, but the electronics were fried, so I took another pair of modern headphones and used their guts in my antique ones and they rock. My son uses them as his gaming headphones to this day. Love the channel keep on restoring.
14:50 No you need to stop trying to heat the mass of that anvil, it's sucking all the heat out of the part. If anything you need a bigger/higher wattage iron. The bigger the part, the bigger the iron. A iron shouldn't take more than a couple seconds to heat up the joint. It's like you're trying to oxy-ace braze with a propane torch. I'd tin the speaker coil wire first, then tin the post using a large 60W+ iron with a pair of helping hands away from the plate assembly. Then reflow and stick the coil wire to the plate, then install the post in the hole.
All of this. The soldering shots were all painful to watch. You need more power and a bit more patience. The part should melt the solder, not the iron. You'll find that it's much easier to get a good joint when you stop approaching solder like an epoxy and instead let it wet the parts like it's meant to.
I will never grow tired of your sense of humor. I enjoy watching you do what I can not financially afford to do. As I don't have workshop space. Keep up the good work.
Seriously, a little flux and that job would have been so much easier. Second to that, a good temp controlled soldering iron and some decent tips. I've done some crazy fiddly repairs with a Rat-Shak branding iron, but I never looked back once I acquired a good iron.
My father used to make crystal radios in the latter part of the 1930s, I can just imagine him with a pair of similar headphones on. Though probably they would have been made in England rather than New York. He would have enjoyed this video. A fantastic restoration, they really are exceptional and look pretty cool. A brilliant video, I really enjoyed it. Thank you for posting it.
A little saddle soap on the leather goes a long way. There are tons of stuff to restore dried out leather but you really only need a couple chemicals to bring it back nicely.
Clean your tip and keep it clean with a damp cloth or sponge. Then when soldering something like the very small wire to the terminal, don't have the terminal sitting in / on a natural heat sink. This will cause you to pull what hair you have left out as you constantly will get cold solder joints. They turned out beautiful! Nice job and great share. :)
I never leave comments but... my husband repaired some very similar. Turns out Skull candies fit perfectly in them. The others he had that he repaired to original needed an amplifier to work with his ipod. That said. You always make my freaking day HTR.
That was amazing a restored a pair of my grandfathers aircraft head sets When I was a teenager. The neat thing is that you can still find a lot of cloth wrap wire out there and they work just great
Reminds me of a pair of headphones I bought out of an Allied Radio catalog back in 1961. I used them for shortwave radio listening. They had the same metal diaphragms.
Very cool restoration. I’m in the process of converting a pair of Brandies to stereo using a pair of thrift store found Marley Exodus headphones. Fun project. Cheers.
You can really tell when someone is into old tools when he whips out the vintage rca adapter for composite video signal and right channel audio at 19:08. Everything else would not be suitable for that type of headphones. Respect.
Great restore ! Just got my wrench yesterday, serial # 4251 which I ordered in November 2018. Not complaining though, it is great. It is solid and heavy. I immediately when out into the garage to look for things that needed 'wrenching'. I works superbly and makes me wish I ordered 2 of them. I know you are out or the new mini wrenches but your site says you will begin taking orders again in the fall. I sure hope to be able to order one of them when you get ready to start production. Don't know if you read all these comments, but if you do, thank you for designing and building such a solidly built and extremely functional tool. My hat is off to you sir. Can't wait for your next video.
10:13 It is worth scratching an isolated wire with a sharp knife, because sometimes this wire consists of enamelled wires, i.e. insulated. If you do not scrape the wire with paint, then it is difficult to solder it anywhere.
Couple of things I'd like to point out, 11:38 "These are mono headphones" No dude, they have two independent drivers, they can be wired as stereo just as well as mono; they will be mono only if you mono them, and there is no reason to do that today. Reason why they were originally wired together in parallel is because back in 1923, stereo wasn't really a thing yet. But it absolutely is now, and your headphone amplifier, and pretty much every other piece of contemporary audio equipment that comes with a headphone jack is, surprisingly (not), at least stereo, it has a stereo headphone output designed for TRS plugs, where T(tip) is left channel, R(ring) is right channel and S(sleeve) is common. And when you plug a TS plug wired like that to it, what happens is the right channel gets shorted out by the longer sleeve, and only the left channel is output into both phones, so not only does it ruin the stereo image, but it also short circuits the right channel of the headphone amplifier, which is not good for its health. It's not like you're monoing them for the vintage value... that ship has sailed the moment you put that new plug on. Speaking of which.... 12:17 "These wires are way too big for this jack (* note - its a plug; jack is the hole you plug it into) but I have to make this work" Or, you could buy a proper quality plug, such as the Neutrik NP3X-B and use that instead of that cheap chinese piece of junk. Or better yet, you could try and find a vintage brass TRS plug, like from an old telephone switchboard (blog.lazerwalker.com/images/switchboard/cable.jpg ). Anything but ^that^ (11:50).
Mars Deimos i agree on the message but not so much on the way it’s presented. HTR is an expert in everything mechanical but maybe not so much electrical an that’s fine because he doesn’t do that much electrical work in his videos. Maybe this would be a cool opportunity for someone who knows how to make a „real“ cord for the headphones with the proper jack and wire cleanly soldered (:
Looks good. With regards to the micro-wire that's wrapped around the speaker base: it looks like ya got it, but i used to burn through small diameter wire all the time. The only way i could do it is to wrap the smaller wire around a larger piece and then coat that whole larger piece in solder. If you start the solder ball on the opposite side of the larger wire from the wrapping, by the time you coat the smaller stuff the solder is cooled down enough to not burn the smaller wires to dust, but still hot enough to melt off the insulate coating. Sometimes this can be used to 'extend' the reach of the smaller diameter wire because the larger wire isn't necessarily limited to the same dimensions as the small stuff.
I think this is the first of your videos that I didn't thoroughly enjoy. Still gave a thumbs up because I know that you put a lot of effort into your videos. Keep up the good work.
Hand Tool Rescue: I wanted to keep the restoration faithful to it's original state. Me: Hand Tool Rescue: Nickel-plating was fancy back then, but now brass is fancy! Me: WTF?
The nickel-plating also slows corrosion considerably. The OTs called it "German silver" when they wanted to pimp the appearance but the real marketing story is, "Doesn't turn green in the next six months."
Great restoration. I felt like it was a missed opportunity to convert it to stereo. But it doesn't change the fact that this was a totally entertaining episode.
Ok seeing you hook up that contraption to your nice sleek fancy modern phone was everything...!!! I’m shook the house lol. We love a good retro meets modern moment!!!
Definitely did not apply enough heat to the part, that's why it didn't flow, I definitely saw flux. You wanna see someone that knows how to solder? Watch bigclivedotcom. His iron probably has too low thermal mass for the parts he tried to solder... Or he used the asstastic lead free tin, which is just no fun to work with.
All together a great restore video but lease look into the comments. Lots of good advise in here. Gently scrape the leads from the coils to connections. Wire has a varnish type insulation on it. Uncleaned will lead to reduced connectivity and bad sound. Flux paste and pre tinning of posts and leads makes cooler and faster joints. Variable heat soldering iron for different types of electrical connections is required to not over heat and short leads and coils. Also a heat sink is easily made. A set of helping hands will keep project from moving as well as allow iron to heat only what is being repaired. The anvil was acting like a GIANT heat sink. Thinner solder that is rosin core is preferred on electrical connections. Use acid core on heavy industrial connections that are heavily corroded. The coating removed from sound plates was a protective coating similar to resin but gives phones that old tin can sound. I bet the sound is better now. 15 years in the communications repair field U.S. Army. Fixed several sets of headphones similar to these on my workbench. Enjoyed the video.
You might want to refinish those diaphrams in something lighter Plastidip has to kill a lot of the highs with it's density, it just lays on so thick also, what a fkng beautiful restoration, I would be so happy with these
I didn't see you use any flux when you were soldering, it helps a lot. You should look into it if you aren't using it already. Great restoration as always.
To help with soldering you should add a little solder to the iron tip before you touch the part with the iron. This creates a heat bridge and will help you heat the part up a little faster.
Hiya, your iron is not to big, at least that is what she said! You need to leave it on the largest lump of metal, the 1/4" jack plug, add some solder, when solder melts, add wire. Allow to cool without moving or blowing etc. Modern 'cans' even mono, run one pair to wires to first earphone, then run one over headband to other ear. The cotton on crimp & sleeve is called 'Wipping'. Nice work apart from soldering, I used to make multi-core mic cables for pa companies, that's 32 ways by 3 contacts. There were 6 or 7 ends per set up. So 32x3x6= 576 solder joints, I made dozens of set ups, plus singles plus, I got good... Take care & stay safe...
First, good video! There aren't any small projects. It's interesting to see you try electronic assemblies. Btw, please try to keep soldering tip clean. Wet sponge and resin will help get the heat to the item being soldered. Try to use rheostats as heat sinks on small iems. Place small amount of solder on iron tip and wipe off before soldering. Avoid touching solder to soldering iron, the iron heats the item being soldered the solder fuses it together. Completed item should have a shiny solder joint. The joint should look more like a pear than a ball. Cold "improper" solder joints add resistance to the circuit. Try to use a wegde tip on the soldering iron for most items, use pointed tip for very small items. Pointy tip is the coldest place on soldering tip. Same with the wedge tip. Good luck!
All I could hear was Lily Tomlin's phone operator character's voice in my head... "*snort* one ringy dingy.." I realize it's most likely not period correct, but it was all I could think about as I watched this. 😁
Nice job, for the electronics in order to have a better fit of the plug: - Cut the cables with different lenghts (the distance between the plug's terminals) so you dont have to push the bottom cable. - Insert both cables throught the mid of the plug. Instead of the positive line inserted from the top of the terminal of the plug, insert it from the bottom, this way the plastic cover will slide with less obstruction. Use heat shrink tube if the cables get to close.
Fantastic work. FYI, I wouldn't recommend soldering those terminals to the stranded wire. The wire will tend to flex right at the solder joint, weakening it over time. Crimping is enough. That's also what is recommended in cars and vibrating machines. Good choice with the stranded wire though as opposed to solid core; stranded is preferred in these situations where the wire is going to be repeatedly bent for the same reason- less likely to split over time. Also, where you're struggling around 12:50: the black wire is meant to be soldered on the *inside* of the jack ;)
It took me a few times to realize that you were soldering the wires to the screw heads. I couldn’t see the wires very well. But an amazingly good restoration! Where’s the best place I can find a decent pair of these types of headphones?
I Love watching a Master Craftsmen Work! I would watch my Father restore old Lionel Trains or what ever he got his hands on. I guess that's why I am such a Horder of old and obsolete things myself. I keep telling everyone when I retire I will spend my days restoring this stuff like he did and finding homes for them to deserving people who will treat them as the real treasures they are! Thank You for doing the same.
Personally I would have swapped out the guts with modern headphones so it still had the antique look but modern sound quality. I’m guessing that it’s worth more to collectors to have it all original though. NICE JOB!!
Yea just spent 60€ on some utterly junky inadequate shit from skullcandy. Unusable. Astonishing that they have the balls to ask that price. But honestly, those bad boys here don't exactly look like hi-fi either.
Just a suggestion for future projects: When wiring a plug, bring the wires in from the middle and up/out through the lugs. It makes the plug body easier to screw on. Also, smaller soldering irons will have a harder time with large metal pieces - especially if they're resting on an even larger heat sink like an anvil.
the cord actually had 4 wires! he could have grounded 2 of them, then connected one to the tip(left channel) and to the ring(right channel) of a stereo phone plug. It worried me, when he plugged the monophonic plug into the stereo headphone amp, which short circuits the right channel output of the amplifier.
I am not a purist as I would have been tempted to make them stereo headphones. However, I do love your restoration and wouldn't tell you to change a thing. That is just my hangup. Love the restoration!
Why throw away headphones, even now? Get the best pair you possibly can and don't let 'em break. They're not cell phones; no part of a pair of headphones is put under extreme stress under the manufacturing process and kept that way so it'll shatter on contact
![What's in the box?! 1890s Safe [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kugqGatwLDY/mqdefault.jpg)
![What's in the box?! 1890s Safe [Restoration]](/img/tr.png)
![Rare Antique Ball Motor [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7FDyF8gVoL8/mqdefault.jpg)
Extremely Flammable Worktable should really get some credit. He carries the show.
Has anyone checked on Evapo-Rust? He didn't even show up for rehearsals. Holding out for his own spin off? Drinking problem finally got the best of him?
I think the work bench has been listed on the EPA's Super Fund Site list. ;-)
I think the bench is now more solvent than wood.
@@HandToolRescue You know it will never rust or rot
man, ever since torn out sweatshirt was cast-off this show has been going nowhere near new things! #bring_back_torn_sweater!
“Garbage on the floor” really deserves its own spinoff show
@webnothing ooooft
A lot of trash
I’m sad that *_Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover_* doesn’t get a cameo in that amazing intro... :(
:v omg!
Is he still sponsored by them I wonder?
F
These are high impedance (~2000 Ohm) headphones for use with Crystal Radios. Modern headphones are about 16ohm.
Possibly 600 or 2000 ohm headset. Modern headphones are either 16 or 32 ohm for today's electronics.
A little headphone amp like the one he shows will drive them okay, though.
I was wondering what these would've been used with.
I have a more recent ones that I recall have an impedance of 4000 Ohms, bought them for when I was making a crystal radio…well, strictly speaking it was a varicap diode radio, but generally same concept.
Dude, I can't get enough of that wonderful intro hahaha
That Intro is the the best on RUclips😅😂
Was thinking exactly the same thing! Hilarious!
I fucking love that intro
I agree with you Mickyman
No fancy lighting but still hot
Excellent work on these. The best soldering hack for you if you don't know is to tin (solder) the wires and terminals before you join them. That way the process happens a lot quicker and easier and you get a smooth clean joint.
with some flux. flux makes it all better
@@curm1778 it seems that he also hates soldering just like nickel plating
Nice to see new actors on the series! I already saw some work of small screwdriver and it surely have future in showbiz!
Shoddy Autofocus showed up to contribute as well around 17:50 perhaps they should get a credit as well!
How the hell was this comment posted two days ago??
i now know the Big Screwdriver is
This is my favorite restoration channel.
You do a great job and try not to cut corners. Plus you point out materials of interest, and talk about things you didn't expect/not sure what to do with.
Seriously, great job.
Thankfully you put them on your head at the end. Because of the banana's terrible performance this episode, I had no idea how large or small these headphones were till the very end!
That’s incredible that they still work ~100 years on. No EarPods will ever last even half as long. Great video 👍
Hey Patch doesn't surprise me, look at the tech inside, they are very basic, probably best not to wear them in the rain tho unless you want to cut down on your need for enegy drinks to keep you alert.
Very interesting speaker design - explains quite well how they managed to survive all these years.
That coating reminded me of some old mirrors in the bathroom I had to redo. Used some paint stripper to take off the protective coating (think I used DCM based stripper), and then got some off the shelf Muriatic acid from the pool section to help with the silver coating.
When you took the earpieces to the buffing wheel, I did not expect them to come out like that!
Bakelite
Bakelite polishes really well! If it´s just a little dull, wax polish for cars applied by hand already does a beautiful job.
Can you polish an mp40 then ? Have it all black and polished but not for the metal pieces
Good work.
There's only one step to rearrange them in stereo.
Do not think they would have sounded very good at doing stereo. Maybe if some really thin felt washer was placed between the diaphragm plates and the aluminum housing. Cut out the buzzing that some stereo notes would have caused.
@@sonofeloah worth a shot. :)
Yes. They are 2 identical transducers. Simply using a stereo jack plug would work fine. We did it with some similar cans years ago in work (BBC sound) just for a laugh.
@@sonofeloah what the hell do you mean stereo notes? Each driver would be getting a mono signal just like before, only each would be a different signal.
@@gotterfunken I think his restorations are meant to be just that. Changing it to stereo would be against the restoration.
I'm glad to see you used your tumbler to help with the finish on these headphones. As soon as I saw them I thought they would be perfect for Rolling Stones.
Some Bachman Turner overdrive "Not Fragile"
I restored an old pair of headphones almost like the ones you’ve restored, but the electronics were fried, so I took another pair of modern headphones and used their guts in my antique ones and they rock. My son uses them as his gaming headphones to this day. Love the channel keep on restoring.
Nice to see Tiny Anvil even if it was an uncredited cameo.
Is that any relation to Tiny Dancer? 🤷♂
@@braveworld2707 no they've disowned each other.
@@horacegentleman3296 😲🤦♂
The intro and the no music earned you a subscription
14:50 No you need to stop trying to heat the mass of that anvil, it's sucking all the heat out of the part.
If anything you need a bigger/higher wattage iron. The bigger the part, the bigger the iron. A iron shouldn't take more than a couple seconds to heat up the joint. It's like you're trying to oxy-ace braze with a propane torch.
I'd tin the speaker coil wire first, then tin the post using a large 60W+ iron with a pair of helping hands away from the plate assembly. Then reflow and stick the coil wire to the plate, then install the post in the hole.
All of this. The soldering shots were all painful to watch. You need more power and a bit more patience. The part should melt the solder, not the iron. You'll find that it's much easier to get a good joint when you stop approaching solder like an epoxy and instead let it wet the parts like it's meant to.
I will never grow tired of your sense of humor. I enjoy watching you do what I can not financially afford to do. As I don't have workshop space. Keep up the good work.
I'm getting you soldering flux for Christmas.
I'll chip in for that.
@@stoutlager6325 also some thinner solder not 1/4" diameter stuff
Seriously, a little flux and that job would have been so much easier. Second to that, a good temp controlled soldering iron and some decent tips. I've done some crazy fiddly repairs with a Rat-Shak branding iron, but I never looked back once I acquired a good iron.
Maybe an instructional video too.
Warton metals future HF rework jelly. Trust me.
My father used to make crystal radios in the latter part of the 1930s, I can just imagine him with a pair of similar headphones on. Though probably they would have been made in England rather than New York. He would have enjoyed this video.
A fantastic restoration, they really are exceptional and look pretty cool.
A brilliant video, I really enjoyed it. Thank you for posting it.
ProTip: When soldering, the solder should be introduced to the material being soldered, not the iron.
Also, don't be afraid to add extra flux, as the flux in the solder burns off pretty quickly.
Also, if you need 40 sec to solder something, you probably need more temperature/larger tip
Also, crimped connectors are not supposed to be soldered. It just increases the chance of wire breaking near the crimp.
@@Milan_M95 no he needs a temp controlled iron with a larger thermal capacity. These pen irons are awful. Higher temp =/= thermal capacity.
There are no complex details, only functional, I played this as a child. I like it a lot. Thanks for the content.
That one character sure is buff and has a very polished technique!
OLD AUDIO TECH. That's my absolute jam! Do more! Mr. Carlson's Lab is a good resource here on youtube for learning more about it. Very nice work.
A little saddle soap on the leather goes a long way. There are tons of stuff to restore dried out leather but you really only need a couple chemicals to bring it back nicely.
I'm pretty sure that's canvas, not leather. Pause about 5:53 to see the weave.
@@TheRealColBosch Yeah, you're probably right. I had a leather one in CAP and that's what my mind went to :)
@@majortom5838 I have no idea. I would think Amoral might do better.
The black earpiece looked new after buffing! Beautiful!!Headphones 🎧 looked great 👍🏻 ❤️😊
M*A*S*H Beats by Radar O'Reilly and Hand Tool Rescue
That's all I could think of was Radar
Clean your tip and keep it clean with a damp cloth or sponge. Then when soldering something like the very small wire to the terminal, don't have the terminal sitting in / on a natural heat sink. This will cause you to pull what hair you have left out as you constantly will get cold solder joints.
They turned out beautiful! Nice job and great share. :)
Scalable Banana! I loved him back in the 80s. Nice to see the ol timers are still working.
It's less of a speaker and more of a transducer. I have literally never seen that before and I love it
The "coating" on the disks is probably mica for insulation. It's a mineral.
Listen, I watch a lot of RUclips, and you have by far the best intro there is. Cracks me up 100% of the time.
10:51 When soldering, you need to use rosin, then soldering is faster and more reliable and the resulting connector is electrically better.
I never leave comments but... my husband repaired some very similar. Turns out Skull candies fit perfectly in them. The others he had that he repaired to original needed an amplifier to work with his ipod.
That said. You always make my freaking day HTR.
Me and garbage on the floor have a lot in common. I really associate with that character
Same
Same
Same.
(Also 69th 'like')
That was amazing a restored a pair of my grandfathers aircraft head sets When I was a teenager. The neat thing is that you can still find a lot of cloth wrap wire out there and they work just great
awesome restore: seems like the tip of your soldering iron was tinned. Many of your solder joints looked cold.
If I only could like this video twice: one - for the intro, second - for the perfect restoration.
Man, change the plug and make it stereo! Great vid as always!!
If they had the need , and knowledge in 1923 , they would be originally wired as stereo !
Reminds me of a pair of headphones I bought out of an Allied Radio catalog back in 1961. I used them for shortwave radio listening. They had the same metal diaphragms.
All hipsters will get a heart attack when they see it on the street. ;)
Yeah, i'd love to see a 'reaction video'
Dj's who use Vinyl will also like these!
I bet there would be people willing to pay a lot of money for headphones like this considering how much Beats by Dre cost.
"Hipsters react to not being the hippest hipster"
I still haven't forgotten those bastards for appropriating my beer! Now i know how Michael Bolton from Office Space feels.
LOL my first thought
Very cool restoration. I’m in the process of converting a pair of Brandies to stereo using a pair of thrift store found Marley Exodus headphones. Fun project. Cheers.
You can really tell when someone is into old tools when he whips out the vintage rca adapter for composite video signal and right channel audio at 19:08. Everything else would not be suitable for that type of headphones. Respect.
Great restore ! Just got my wrench yesterday, serial # 4251 which I ordered in November 2018. Not complaining though, it is great. It is solid and heavy. I immediately when out into the garage to look for things that needed 'wrenching'. I works superbly and makes me wish I ordered 2 of them. I know you are out or the new mini wrenches but your site says you will begin taking orders again in the fall. I sure hope to be able to order one of them when you get ready to start production. Don't know if you read all these comments, but if you do, thank you for designing and building such a solidly built and extremely functional tool. My hat is off to you sir. Can't wait for your next video.
I used to work in a instrument repair shop and used a buffer like that all the time.
I kept waiting to watch a part go flying across the shop 😅😂
Best intro ever. Reminded me of the things I used to watch as a kid
10:13 It is worth scratching an isolated wire with a sharp knife, because sometimes this wire consists of enamelled wires, i.e. insulated. If you do not scrape the wire with paint, then it is difficult to solder it anywhere.
You have a smile that says "i don't do well in social situations." And so I think we would get along.
My favorite part of the intro, garbage on the floor!❤❤👌🏼👌🏼
Will Garbage (specifically on the floor) ever not be a part of the intro
The headphone is a fine piece of equipment. Worthy of your restoration.
Couple of things I'd like to point out,
11:38 "These are mono headphones"
No dude, they have two independent drivers, they can be wired as stereo just as well as mono; they will be mono only if you mono them, and there is no reason to do that today. Reason why they were originally wired together in parallel is because back in 1923, stereo wasn't really a thing yet. But it absolutely is now, and your headphone amplifier, and pretty much every other piece of contemporary audio equipment that comes with a headphone jack is, surprisingly (not), at least stereo, it has a stereo headphone output designed for TRS plugs, where T(tip) is left channel, R(ring) is right channel and S(sleeve) is common. And when you plug a TS plug wired like that to it, what happens is the right channel gets shorted out by the longer sleeve, and only the left channel is output into both phones, so not only does it ruin the stereo image, but it also short circuits the right channel of the headphone amplifier, which is not good for its health.
It's not like you're monoing them for the vintage value... that ship has sailed the moment you put that new plug on. Speaking of which....
12:17 "These wires are way too big for this jack (* note - its a plug; jack is the hole you plug it into) but I have to make this work"
Or, you could buy a proper quality plug, such as the Neutrik NP3X-B and use that instead of that cheap chinese piece of junk. Or better yet, you could try and find a vintage brass TRS plug, like from an old telephone switchboard (blog.lazerwalker.com/images/switchboard/cable.jpg ). Anything but ^that^ (11:50).
Mars Deimos i agree on the message but not so much on the way it’s presented. HTR is an expert in everything mechanical but maybe not so much electrical an that’s fine because he doesn’t do that much electrical work in his videos. Maybe this would be a cool opportunity for someone who knows how to make a „real“ cord for the headphones with the proper jack and wire cleanly soldered (:
Discovered this channel yesterday, easily one of my new favorite things on RUclips.
Dude you do an amazing job. Upload more please. I love your content
Looks good.
With regards to the micro-wire that's wrapped around the speaker base:
it looks like ya got it, but i used to burn through small diameter wire all the time.
The only way i could do it is to wrap the smaller wire around a larger piece and then coat that whole larger piece in solder.
If you start the solder ball on the opposite side of the larger wire from the wrapping, by the time you coat the smaller stuff the solder is cooled down enough to not burn the smaller wires to dust, but still hot enough to melt off the insulate coating.
Sometimes this can be used to 'extend' the reach of the smaller diameter wire because the larger wire isn't necessarily limited to the same dimensions as the small stuff.
Nice lookin' set of cans you got there. And don't bogart the stone washer. I gotta pair of mom jeans I need to toss in later.
I think this is the first of your videos that I didn't thoroughly enjoy. Still gave a thumbs up because I know that you put a lot of effort into your videos. Keep up the good work.
Hand Tool Rescue: I wanted to keep the restoration faithful to it's original state.
Me:
Hand Tool Rescue: Nickel-plating was fancy back then, but now brass is fancy!
Me: WTF?
Not gonna lie, I was expecting him to (re-)electroplate the brass.
I was kinda pissed about removing the plating, it adds to the history of the item, otherwise good job.
The nickel-plating also slows corrosion considerably. The OTs called it "German silver" when they wanted to pimp the appearance but the real marketing story is, "Doesn't turn green in the next six months."
Fantastic. Haven't seen a set like that for over 40 years. My Uncle had a set similar to those for his HAM radio setup.
Oh yeah? Well,...... Nickel plasted brass hates you back! There, now you're even! 😡
We, however, think you're the bees knees. 😀
Great restoration. I felt like it was a missed opportunity to convert it to stereo. But it doesn't change the fact that this was a totally entertaining episode.
I missed Nutella in the opening credits, but I have to admit the scaling banana has appeal.
* has a peel.. FTFY..
@dana i see whatcha did there haha
Some would say that Scaling Banana has the same effect that bringing the young cousin onto the Brady Bunch has.
nutella and bananas have such a long story between them :D
Ok seeing you hook up that contraption to your nice sleek fancy modern phone was everything...!!! I’m shook the house lol. We love a good retro meets modern moment!!!
It's not every day I watch a video and think, "I'm better at soldering than this guy" :D
Definitely did not apply enough heat to the part, that's why it didn't flow, I definitely saw flux. You wanna see someone that knows how to solder? Watch bigclivedotcom. His iron probably has too low thermal mass for the parts he tried to solder... Or he used the asstastic lead free tin, which is just no fun to work with.
All I did was watch the intro 10 times. Does that count?
I love you.
You would.
Finally, an official standard scaling banana
Oh sure, but whose "standard"?
Surely not those Canadians'. They just don't know their bananas.
@@ChuckD59 But a Norwegian made it for me. We all know how much Norwegians love bananas...
1 day ago? This video shows it's like hours old lol
@@doggfite Patreon supporters get to see them early.
@@BradleyRhea ah, I see, thanks!
All together a great restore video but lease look into the comments. Lots of good advise in here.
Gently scrape the leads from the coils to connections. Wire has a varnish type insulation on it. Uncleaned will lead to reduced connectivity and bad sound.
Flux paste and pre tinning of posts and leads makes cooler and faster joints.
Variable heat soldering iron for different types of electrical connections is required to not over heat and short leads and coils. Also a heat sink is easily made.
A set of helping hands will keep project from moving as well as allow iron to heat only what is being repaired. The anvil was acting like a GIANT heat sink.
Thinner solder that is rosin core is preferred on electrical connections. Use acid core on heavy industrial connections that are heavily corroded.
The coating removed from sound plates was a protective coating similar to resin but gives phones that old tin can sound. I bet the sound is better now.
15 years in the communications repair field U.S. Army. Fixed several sets of headphones similar to these on my workbench. Enjoyed the video.
That intro kills me every time but somehow I keep coming back.
Gotta say I was originally interested in the item being restored but the intro was so awesome. Good stuff my dude.
The intro gets me every time bro! I love it, dont change it!
It gets me too. It reminds me of some 80s tv show … but I can't remember which one!! XD
@@Katzztar Growing pains, or any other 80's sitcom
You might want to refinish those diaphrams in something lighter
Plastidip has to kill a lot of the highs with it's density, it just lays on so thick
also, what a fkng beautiful restoration, I would be so happy with these
Nice job as always man
I didn't see you use any flux when you were soldering, it helps a lot. You should look into it if you aren't using it already. Great restoration as always.
Oh wow! The screen debut of scale banana! I am so hype!
To help with soldering you should add a little solder to the iron tip before you touch the part with the iron. This creates a heat bridge and will help you heat the part up a little faster.
The intro is the stuff of legends!
That intro was typical 80s.
Hiya, your iron is not to big, at least that is what she said! You need to leave it on the largest lump of metal, the 1/4" jack plug, add some solder, when solder melts, add wire. Allow to cool without moving or blowing etc. Modern 'cans' even mono, run one pair to wires to first earphone, then run one over headband to other ear. The cotton on crimp & sleeve is called 'Wipping'. Nice work apart from soldering, I used to make multi-core mic cables for pa companies, that's 32 ways by 3 contacts. There were 6 or 7 ends per set up. So 32x3x6= 576 solder joints, I made dozens of set ups, plus singles plus, I got good... Take care & stay safe...
Wow no Nutella in this episode :(
What, are you on a diet?!?
You look beautiful just how you are Hand Tool Rescue!
First, good video! There aren't any small projects.
It's interesting to see you try electronic assemblies. Btw, please try to keep soldering tip clean. Wet sponge and resin will help get the heat to the item being soldered. Try to use rheostats as heat sinks on small iems. Place small amount of solder on iron tip and wipe off before soldering. Avoid touching solder to soldering iron, the iron heats the item being soldered the solder fuses it together. Completed item should have a shiny solder joint. The joint should look more like a pear than a ball. Cold "improper" solder joints add resistance to the circuit. Try to use a wegde tip on the soldering iron for most items, use pointed tip for very small items. Pointy tip is the coldest place on soldering tip. Same with the wedge tip. Good luck!
All I could hear was Lily Tomlin's phone operator character's voice in my head... "*snort* one ringy dingy.." I realize it's most likely not period correct, but it was all I could think about as I watched this. 😁
Nice job, for the electronics in order to have a better fit of the plug:
- Cut the cables with different lenghts (the distance between the plug's terminals) so you dont have to push the bottom cable.
- Insert both cables throught the mid of the plug. Instead of the positive line inserted from the top of the terminal of the plug, insert it from the bottom, this way the plastic cover will slide with less obstruction. Use heat shrink tube if the cables get to close.
His clumsy soldering skill reminded me of my early days with soldering iron back in 5th grade!
I kinda got excited when I saw a coil in there instead of a speaker or piezo.
🤦🏻♂️”of course!!”. Love the vids, man. 👍🏻👍🏻
Maple syrup is such a good actor, I love his role.
Fantastic work. FYI, I wouldn't recommend soldering those terminals to the stranded wire. The wire will tend to flex right at the solder joint, weakening it over time. Crimping is enough. That's also what is recommended in cars and vibrating machines. Good choice with the stranded wire though as opposed to solid core; stranded is preferred in these situations where the wire is going to be repeatedly bent for the same reason- less likely to split over time.
Also, where you're struggling around 12:50: the black wire is meant to be soldered on the *inside* of the jack ;)
It took me a few times to realize that you were soldering the wires to the screw heads. I couldn’t see the wires very well. But an amazingly good restoration! Where’s the best place I can find a decent pair of these types of headphones?
Thanks! eBay is the place.
Hand Tool Rescue thank you! Im gonna have to do one of these restorations myself!
Well, I was going to make some suggestions on soldering, but, I will just say, well done, Sir!!
Nice work! I like the brass better too.
Did you keep these or are they a commission?
I Love watching a Master Craftsmen Work! I would watch my Father restore old Lionel Trains or what ever he got his hands on. I guess that's why I am such a Horder of old and obsolete things myself. I keep telling everyone when I retire I will spend my days restoring this stuff like he did and finding homes for them to deserving people who will treat them as the real treasures they are! Thank You for doing the same.
Got a pair of 70's Sony headphones that would need some fixing but I don't have the guts to gut them
Personally I would have swapped out the guts with modern headphones so it still had the antique look but modern sound quality. I’m guessing that it’s worth more to collectors to have it all original though.
NICE JOB!!
Thinner soldering wire might have helped you for this restoration. Melts faster.
A little bit of flux paste may not have been a terrible idea, either.
Those High impedance earphones are rare and are the best to listen with galena type radios. Nice find!
*Meanwhile Me:* _* buys new headphones *_
Agreed.
I can get behind old tool restoration but when it comes to electronics, I want the newest.
But not Beats by Dre...total overpriced garbage
Duchi them headphones will last a nother 80 years
Yea just spent 60€ on some utterly junky inadequate shit from skullcandy.
Unusable. Astonishing that they have the balls to ask that price.
But honestly, those bad boys here don't exactly look like hi-fi either.
@@TilmanBaumann I mean you are the sucker that paid 60 communist dollars on Skullcandy
Just a suggestion for future projects: When wiring a plug, bring the wires in from the middle and up/out through the lugs. It makes the plug body easier to screw on. Also, smaller soldering irons will have a harder time with large metal pieces - especially if they're resting on an even larger heat sink like an anvil.
By adding a third wire, you could have used a stereo plug. It wouldn’t have been very noticeable.
the cord actually had 4 wires! he could have grounded 2 of them, then connected one to the tip(left channel) and to the ring(right channel) of a stereo phone plug. It worried me, when he plugged the monophonic plug into the stereo headphone amp, which short circuits the right channel output of the amplifier.
I am not a purist as I would have been tempted to make them stereo headphones. However, I do love your restoration and wouldn't tell you to change a thing. That is just my hangup. Love the restoration!
"The hand tool rescue show "
😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂
These earphones are for ever
Now we are in the disposable era
Meh, I still have all my headphones I bought since early 90's
Why throw away headphones, even now? Get the best pair you possibly can and don't let 'em break. They're not cell phones; no part of a pair of headphones is put under extreme stress under the manufacturing process and kept that way so it'll shatter on contact
This happens with dirt cheap things. Repair is uneconomical
@ 1:28 Wow... those are some cool looking, ultra-mini humbuckers!