Hobby Cheating 193 - Non Metallic Metal Axes
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- Опубликовано: 14 июн 2019
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through my method for Non-Metallic Metal axes, I talk about the general theory to placing light on unusual surfaces like this. Hope you enjoy!
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The way you applied your "pop" color was vastly easier than my method. I was always trying to mix different hues into my NMM/TMM colors to create subtle color changes, when really I could just use a thin glaze on top. That's one of the reasons I love your HC vids - you give those little tips that sometimes the viewer wouldn't think of, or that no one ever mentions. Thanks Vince!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Very informative, I'm learning NMM now, so this was a big help.
Glad it was helpful!
My goodness, I just found your channel and I'm blown away by the amount of solid painting tutorials you have and how well you explain various techniques. I feel like a kid in a candy shop right now...I don't quite know where to begin! I'm painting up some Infinity models and really want to try NMM (or maybe TMM...or both now!) so perhaps I'll start there. Thank you again for taking the time to share your knowledge.
That's awesome, welcome along, glad to have you on the hobby journey and always happy to help. :)
Excellent video as usual. Thank you Vince.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Perfect timing! Been having issues with this all week.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
I do love your videos. For me are like a huge encyclopedia of miniature painting where I can find all that I need. Thank you so much.
Glad you like them! Always happy to help. :)
Wow. Looked awesome after the first pass. One of the best tutorials out there. And I've looked!! Still can't quite reconcile the effort vs the outcome, though.
It's a fair amount of effort, but for me, especially for characters and important models, it's worth the time. i wouldn't do it on every model generally, but for a singular character, you have to go the distance. :)
Holy cow I can't believe this is the latest Hobby Cheating vid! I have a fig with an axe which I was planning to make my very first attempt at nmm! Thank you!
Excellent, happy to help as always.
Thank you for sharing this!
Thanks, happy to help as always. :)
Spot on, this has always been a major akward moment when i have to paint an axe
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Non related to this video. Which is awesome and informative as usual. I would like to get your thoughts on or see a product review of Vallejo Nocturna paints.
How funny, I just picked up a bunch of them to do a review quite recently. ;)
@@VinceVenturella Awesome sauce!
4:38 "Very quick and dirty process" => already looks good
Well thank you, my goal is always to do some simple techniques you can execute quickly and basically jump off when you want to. :)
Hey Vince, thanks for the continued hobby cheating videos (they're my absolute favourites)! Anyways two questions for you... 1. Related question, any tips for applying nmm to scythes (going off your Kurnoth Hunters for inspiration) 2. Unrelated question, would you mind sharing the wet palette you use? I'd like to upgrade from my homemade version
1) Same rules apply for Scythes as axes, oppose the colors and focus the highlights into middle-ish areas of the blades.
2) Redgrass XL wet palette. It's expensive but totally worth it.
How did you time this video perfectly with my current project ?
What is going on ... ?
wowtrelohunteri haha - same here! Vince just has his thumb on the pulse of the zeitgeist I guess! 😎
Those cameras I placed in people's houses are really paying off...I mean, just good luck I guess. ;)
So, complete the set with a video about Non-Metallic Metal hammers? I think it could be interesting with those sharp angles and flat planes side by side. Also, I *really* like to see a video on painting black armor (ala Stormcast Eternals Anvils of Heldenhammer); I've seen a few other videos on the subject but its either been just heavy (read: all) edge highlighting with lighter colors or the effect ends up very washed out and looking more like just a dark version of the base color (i.e. it turns into dark gray, dark blue etc) and I'd like to see something that actually retains, if not pure black, then at least more of the dark basecoat.
Makes sense to me, it's on the list.
Hey Vince a grabbed some Burnt Umber from Vallejo. The air version. I didnt have time to mess with my air brush but wanted to get some paint on my current project so I just put some on my wet pallet and went to work. I didnt thin it out at all besides it just being placed on the wet pallet. Only 1 coat on but it seemed to be have a lot like the contrast is suppose to. Which is fine but I am wrestling with some tide marks. Do you ever use Vallejo air paints with the brush or would you say dont ever do that?
I use air paints all the time with the brush, the key is you have to understand they are more thin and they have some flow improver in them. Sometimes you may need to work with them a little more, but you have to be careful how much more you thin them. That does sound unusual, but it could just be a 2 coats issue.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the info! It was only after a single coat so I just need another one on them. Also do you have any advice for giving models with more tone down colors like browns fans and white and creams a little bit more life? I'm painting my nighthaunt to look as if they are very dirty and muddy with tattered fabric but I dont want it to look just blah.
@@manga3040 What you are describing is always challenging. Browns and those sorts of neutral tones are always a bit boring. The best answer is to use some kind of colored brown, i.e. get yourself a red/brown or a green/brown or whatever and that can really help.
@@VinceVenturella Gotcha good idea. Always a bummer because like the earth tones haha.
Question i previously asked about snow, but what about hair?
As in snow in har beards etc etc.
Often when you see picture of mountaineering or people walking in quite the cold environment either their hair or (if a man) beard will be covered in snow or ice crystals .
Can this effect be painted on a miniature without it looking silly, and if so how would you do it?
I could imagine that i might either take the snow mixture and do some thin lines on the beard, and then sprinkle some secret weapons glass dust on it.
or just paint a few white lines and do the glass dust?
Sure, some of the powder can be lightly applied with some gloss varnish, but you have to be VERY minimal, less is more here. Massive Voodoo has some great tutorials on it for snow covered items.
I have a valkyries blood bowl team from sukubus miniatures I need to paint (Had them a few years till my painting skills got better) - Was hoping that you'd be able to do a tutorial on a cold-looking flesh skintone, I know that if i try it I'll screw up everything :D - Love your videos and style 0
Its on the list, I just need to find the right video to do the tutorial.
This video makes me repaint my energy melee weapons on my space marines...
Well, repaint might be extreme, but at least for the future weapons you have an option. ;)
Vince, any advice for when there's details on the axe body? Specifically raised details instead of the grooved 'divots' like on the one you used on this video
Sure, if the item is thin filigree, you generally want it to be dark lined around the edge and quite bright to close to near white. if it's larger, then run similar blends in contrast to what is around it.
Thanks, Vince! How could I train my mind at seeing where the light & shadow should be on metal? I hear everything you say about placing the main light & darkness (close to what I4d see for non-metal surfaces) but then you say "the ground reflects some of the light" and that's where I can't relate that statement to what I've seen in real life. Is there anything like a metal weapons museum I could look at online to understand these things?
Thanks!
Reflected light in metal is one of the toughest things to capture. My best advice is to look (and I mean really look) like stare for 5-10 minutes at metal surfaces. There are some really good tutorials out there specifically about udnerstanding how light interacts with different shaped objects. The reality is there are just so many ways for light to refelct, so some general rules can be followed and bent, but this video is one of the best around. - ruclips.net/video/Zux0HAS8pAw/видео.html
@@VinceVenturella Thank you!
@@VinceVenturella So I've watched that video and there are indeed very clear, interesting and efficient infos there. Seeing the reflections on the sphere, cylinder and cone helped me, and seeing the actual effect of light "bounce" is really interesting and I can "read" what the author means. Now I'm going to have to get to understand the one about flat surfaces. Time to unsheathe the big knives from the kitchen!! :-) I've also noticed on the soles of my pans that light tends to gather first along 2 triangles, which doesn't really match the proposal for the rectangular light pattern. I've yet to lay my hands on a large enough flat metallic object. Maybe I should get an ingot? :-D
Anyway, light goes on.
I was literally just google for painting nmm on axes
Me too!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Vince Venturella QQ on a topic from a few videos ago: what interference colours would you use for orc / green skin?