I never just bolt on the thrust washer. I first aline it with the cam gear. Lightly tighten the two bolts so the washer can move back and forth. Place the cam gear on with some grease. Take it back off. You can see if the washer is centered. Then slowly tighten the bolts without the washer moving, making sure it is centered. The thrust washer has side to side play in it. Take care to have it centered. Also before installing the timing chain and gears, de-bur the gears on a wire wheel attached to a bench grinder. There's sharp edges on the gears. Make sure they are smooth. If you don't, metal particles will wear off and go through the oil pump. Been doing this process now for 35 years of engine building and over 500 strictly Ford engines. All rebuilt engines have a certain amount of initial break in wear. Rings, push rods, valve stems, cam lobes and lifters. These wear particles go straight through the pump. That's why all oil pumps will have marks on the internal gears. To prevent these particles from entering the pump, I strategically place magnets in certain locations. One magnet in each drain back location in the head. Total of 4. I can take a valve cover off and check for metal particles collected on the magnet. I stick at least two in the pan. A good thing is to get a magnetic drain plug or jb weld a round one on the drain plug. All rebuilt engines will have metal particles collected on the magnet. If you have a catastrophic cam failure, the magnet will catch it before it goes through your engine and ruins it.
I've been extensively and meticulously looking at an infinite amounts of these videos. People instinctively open the video with the most views. In most of the videos, we see a complicated "specialty" tools; in others you don't. Then, the builders go off topic, making the situation not interesting. You Sir offer the best video! You are straight to point and perform with the utmost profession and skill! We truly wish we had you close by to get together in person to help get our 351M done and of course, to be around a good neighbor--not to many of those around!
Excellent video! Now I feel confident that I can rebuild my 351W myself once I receive the machine shop measurements and the parts I need to buy; there are so many companies making parts for the 351W that is not easy to select ;would not mind to spend a "buck more" for quality parts though. My engine is a D9AE... code (flat tappet) but I also have one with roller lifters as a spare. Thank you for posting it Sir!
Also the last time I got my crankshaft back from being polished. It looked fantastic. But the oil journals were full of crud. Check double check triple check. It’s cheap insurance!
Also, to all your new engine builders. When you bring your block back from the machine shop. You are not yet ready to assemble it. You need to personally go through and clean that engine. Use brushes and check every oil gallery for metal shavings or crud. Plus much much more. Please watch a video on how to clean your block. Before you begin your assembly👍
Alot of people are commenting that this video is straight forward and easy. Well thats true, but it does miss some necessary steps...So dont get all warm and fuzzy just yet...
Lol,,just got ready to click off video at that point. "THAT ONE MOVED A LITTLE" BAHAHAHAH. And everyone after it will move forever. No plasti guage,,,no checks,no stretch.
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I never just bolt on the thrust washer. I first aline it with the cam gear. Lightly tighten the two bolts so the washer can move back and forth.
Place the cam gear on with some grease. Take it back off. You can see if the washer is centered. Then slowly tighten the bolts without the washer moving, making sure it is centered. The thrust washer has side to side play in it. Take care to have it centered.
Also before installing the timing chain and gears, de-bur the gears on a wire wheel attached to a bench grinder.
There's sharp edges on the gears. Make sure they are smooth. If you don't, metal particles will wear off and go through the oil pump.
Been doing this process now for 35 years of engine building and over 500 strictly Ford engines.
All rebuilt engines have a certain amount of initial break in wear.
Rings, push rods, valve stems, cam lobes and lifters.
These wear particles go straight through the pump. That's why all oil pumps will have marks on the internal gears.
To prevent these particles from entering the pump, I strategically place magnets in certain locations.
One magnet in each drain back location in the head. Total of 4. I can take a valve cover off and check for metal particles collected on the magnet.
I stick at least two in the pan. A good thing is to get a magnetic drain plug or jb weld a round one on the drain plug.
All rebuilt engines will have metal particles collected on the magnet.
If you have a catastrophic cam failure, the magnet will catch it before it goes through your engine and ruins it.
I've been extensively and meticulously looking at an infinite amounts of these videos. People instinctively open the video with the most views. In most of the videos, we see a complicated "specialty" tools; in others you don't. Then, the builders go off topic, making the situation not interesting. You Sir offer the best video! You are straight to point and perform with the utmost profession and skill! We truly wish we had you close by to get together in person to help get our 351M done and of course, to be around a good neighbor--not to many of those around!
Best freaking video all over RUclips hands-down from beginning to the end🔥
Excellent video! Now I feel confident that I can rebuild my 351W myself once I receive the machine shop measurements and the parts I need to buy; there are so many companies making parts for the 351W that is not easy to select ;would not mind to spend a "buck more" for quality parts though. My engine is a D9AE... code (flat tappet) but I also have one with roller lifters as a spare. Thank you for posting it Sir!
amazing video. only one out there which it straight to the point and easy to understand. about to build my 351 soon. thx
Looking good and thanks for providing the torque specs in the video . We are building a 1975 Ford 351W now so your series is interesting and helpful !
Also the last time I got my crankshaft back from being polished. It looked fantastic. But the oil journals were full of crud. Check double check triple check. It’s cheap insurance!
Also, to all your new engine builders. When you bring your block back from the machine shop. You are not yet ready to assemble it. You need to personally go through and clean that engine. Use brushes and check every oil gallery for metal shavings or crud. Plus much much more. Please watch a video on how to clean your block. Before you begin your assembly👍
Did he mention #1 cylinder at TDC when the cam and cranks dots are aligned? Or did I miss that?
Um aren't you suppose to torque the main caps in stages?
Never seen someone lube the cam bearings first and not the cam as he puts it in, not that it's wrong just different
why in the world would you start with 100fp on the main caps... -__-
Thank you for the video. when do you add more HP?
Alot of people are commenting that this video is straight forward and easy. Well thats true, but it does miss some necessary steps...So dont get all warm and fuzzy just yet...
Is plastigauge not used any longer? How do you know that the crank bearings and con rod bearing clearances are within spec?
Yes it was plastigauged we just didn't film it.
Did you use the original camshaft or did you buy a new one If so what brand did you get or part number
did you really just pull down that Main Cap to full torque only on one side???
Lol,,just got ready to click off video at that point. "THAT ONE MOVED A LITTLE" BAHAHAHAH. And everyone after it will move forever. No plasti guage,,,no checks,no stretch.
What was the total cost of the rebuild?
I think it was around $2,400.