i just bought a 84 F250 dually with this engine in it and the previous owner made a huge mess just like in yours and I am now myself going though all of this, thank you for the video!!
The only thing I would add to this great video is never ever under any circumstances use anything other than a real motorcraft solenoid! I finally stopped burning through starters when I realized that was my problem. This is after making all new cables and rewiring damn near the entire truck. Most of the aftermarket solenoids don't deliver the correct power to the starter. At least not consistently. I will now be upgrading my fuel shut off to a manual rather than electronic one thanks to you. One more future problem eliminated
There are several vids by pros warning away from the discount solenoids. Many of the 30 dollar to 40 dollar solenoids are doa or fail soon after using. The ones well made are in the $125 + price points. $125 - $140 gets you a quality solenoid that will function as the original and last like oe also.
I bought an 83 F 350 last March. Paid 1000 for it. I’ve probably put about that to 15 in it. Been messing with this thing for a year. It’s getting better and better with each go-round, but I love it. Yes...it’s ancient and slow but this thing has some serious balls. Old farm laborer owned this. He’d go from here to Mexico regularly with it. Pretty sure it was in an accident on the pass right side. Pretty sure his tool kit was bubble gum and bailing wire but he kept it running. Only had one battery and a can of starting fluid at first. That got corrected. New plugs, injectors, fuel lines, etc...Now it’s been “ok , how was it set up before and how do we get it back to that”. Call it a labor of love at this point. Like I said little by little. Thank you for the video.
Three year owner of a '94 7.3 with the factory turbo setup. Never knew how much electrical mumbo jumbo ford got rid of when they were preparing the step up to the psd. Recently been having issues with my truck, mostly when it's been warm and I come back to the truck to start it after sitting for only a half hour or so. Cranks, has fuel delivery, just no combustion. Amidst my original diagnosis of a bad IP, I came across the phenomena of these idiotic solenoids seizing up in the shut position when the engine bay heats up post operation. Just ordered the solenoid, and am hoping for the best. Great video man, even with it being a few years old.
@@tylercromartie if you look on the top of the ip you’ll see two studs coming out. Those are the electrical studs for the solenoid itself. You have to take that top cover off (I think like 3-4 torx bolts outlining it.) keep note of the positions of all the washers and make sure to order new seals (I just bought a whole pump seal kit) or it leaks like no tomorrow. Unfortunately that just postponed my pump going, just now rebuilding my whole injection system. Good luck!
No, it should be pretty free of any interference other than some electrical looms and the fuel return line. If you look at about 0:36 you’ll see where the solenoid is, just about directly back on the top of the pump behind oil fill tube. It’s in the part of the housing where that fuel return line nipple goes into
Very informative. My 92 E350 the fuel shut-off solenoid went out intermittently. while the set up looks slightly different and it's a much tighter bay, it's still the same part in the same spot. I got a new FSOS, the same one you show from Amazon. it did not work out of the box.... I'm returning that and getting a Motorcraft one now. and replacing the wires. we''ll see what happens.
Thanks for the video. This helped relieve all my stress regarding changing the fuel shut-off solenoid. I have a fully functional cold start fuel advance solenoid but if I am taking the cap off the pump I might as well change both solenoid's while I am in there...I am having an intermittent stall and hard start problem and everything is pointing to the fuel shut off solenoid.
Don't feel bad brother I was driving my 1992 7.3 idi died and I thought fuil pump but I was wrong still trying to figure it out lol thank u I'm really not sure what is wrong it's was running great
The fuse links are used to keep the wiring from burning 🔥 completely up . Kinda makes sense if you think about it . The glow plugs alone takes plenty of voltage to activate them . The fuel solenoid is under constant DC Voltage with the ignition switch in the on position. That the purpose of the FUSE LINKS !
The yellow wires go to the glow plug relay. They carry a LOT of amps, and it is common for them to burn up at the connection. The most common fix is to move them out of the connector but keep the connector intact for the rest of the wires (like was done here).
@@TheFSeries I just bought an 89 IDI and I’ve been sorting out the electrical issues. Your videos are helping a lot! On my truck the connector must have been totally fried because the previous owner got rid of it and spliced all the wires. At least I’m learning what all the wires do while I fix everything!
I feel your pain to some degree but the electrical stuff is actually incredibly helpful once you understand it. First things first is some proper diagnostic equipment which is mostly a multimeter for you, although a sounding device to find breaks in wires could be incredibly helpful. Next is a good solid wiring diagram. Hopefully you maintain colours and connectors so the diagram is always valid. Next just a basic, practical book on electronics and components. Ours are going to be pretty basic with just fuses, switches, solenoids, relays, lights and the radio. The only thing a little different is glow plugs. If you know your electronics, diagnosing a glow plug will be a piece of cake. Just some food for thought. I agree it's great to have a mechanical engine, and this truck is nice to work on. I will say however that if you know how to use the electronics you can get 90% of your diagnosis done from the drivers seat.
Current clamp would help as well. If you got a simple oscilloscope with some current clamps and probes you could basically see everything you need to. There are some additional tools to see your fuel pulses to help you time the high pressure pump but that's basically electronics to get your "eyes" on a mechanical system without taking the front cover off.
Hey great vid I need to find out that part # and where you got it stuck with my rig and don't have the skins right now for a new pump can really use that info. Thanks great fix!
Did you see the second ground for the passenger side? I had a local company make mine and the positive cables I ended up getting for a 95 ford dual battery truck. Was about a inch or to short so I had to cut a slot for it. But ive redone just about all of my electrical goodies..
My 88 will not start in the morning, you can either it and it will start, after that it starts fine. It won't die unless you kill it in gear. I wonder if the shutoff is bad as well?
From what I've gleaned, a manual fuel shutoff was only available for Agricultural equipment, etc. For whatever reason, mine keeps leaking fuel. Trust me, would MUCH rather have a manual setup.
i just bought a 84 F250 dually with this engine in it and the previous owner made a huge mess just like in yours and I am now myself going though all of this, thank you for the video!!
The only thing I would add to this great video is never ever under any circumstances use anything other than a real motorcraft solenoid! I finally stopped burning through starters when I realized that was my problem. This is after making all new cables and rewiring damn near the entire truck. Most of the aftermarket solenoids don't deliver the correct power to the starter. At least not consistently. I will now be upgrading my fuel shut off to a manual rather than electronic one thanks to you. One more future problem eliminated
I got the one he showed in the video. Didn't work when it came...
There are several vids by pros warning away from the discount solenoids. Many of the 30 dollar to 40 dollar solenoids are doa or fail soon after using. The ones well made are in the $125 + price points. $125 - $140 gets you a quality solenoid that will function as the original and last like oe also.
I bought an 83 F 350 last March. Paid 1000 for it. I’ve probably put about that to 15 in it. Been messing with this thing for a year. It’s getting better and better with each go-round, but I love it. Yes...it’s ancient and slow but this thing has some serious balls. Old farm laborer owned this. He’d go from here to Mexico regularly with it. Pretty sure it was in an accident on the pass right side. Pretty sure his tool kit was bubble gum and bailing wire but he kept it running. Only had one battery and a can of starting fluid at first. That got corrected. New plugs, injectors, fuel lines, etc...Now it’s been “ok , how was it set up before and how do we get it back to that”. Call it a labor of love at this point. Like I said little by little. Thank you for the video.
Three year owner of a '94 7.3 with the factory turbo setup. Never knew how much electrical mumbo jumbo ford got rid of when they were preparing the step up to the psd. Recently been having issues with my truck, mostly when it's been warm and I come back to the truck to start it after sitting for only a half hour or so. Cranks, has fuel delivery, just no combustion. Amidst my original diagnosis of a bad IP, I came across the phenomena of these idiotic solenoids seizing up in the shut position when the engine bay heats up post operation. Just ordered the solenoid, and am hoping for the best. Great video man, even with it being a few years old.
I have a 94 7.3 idi turbo as well. Where exactly is the solenoid located. I can't find it for the life of me
@@tylercromartie if you look on the top of the ip you’ll see two studs coming out. Those are the electrical studs for the solenoid itself. You have to take that top cover off (I think like 3-4 torx bolts outlining it.) keep note of the positions of all the washers and make sure to order new seals (I just bought a whole pump seal kit) or it leaks like no tomorrow. Unfortunately that just postponed my pump going, just now rebuilding my whole injection system. Good luck!
@Kevin Cloherty only had her for a few weeks. I'm still getting used to engine layout. Do I need to remove the fuel filter housing to access?
No, it should be pretty free of any interference other than some electrical looms and the fuel return line. If you look at about 0:36 you’ll see where the solenoid is, just about directly back on the top of the pump behind oil fill tube. It’s in the part of the housing where that fuel return line nipple goes into
I use brass battery terminals and welding cable and optima batteries for my ford f250 diesel truck.
Very good video. Will help me walk through mine. Have same exact truck
Very informative. My 92 E350 the fuel shut-off solenoid went out intermittently. while the set up looks slightly different and it's a much tighter bay, it's still the same part in the same spot. I got a new FSOS, the same one you show from Amazon. it did not work out of the box.... I'm returning that and getting a Motorcraft one now. and replacing the wires. we''ll see what happens.
Thanks for the video. This helped relieve all my stress regarding changing the fuel shut-off solenoid. I have a fully functional cold start fuel advance solenoid but if I am taking the cap off the pump I might as well change both solenoid's while I am in there...I am having an intermittent stall and hard start problem and everything is pointing to the fuel shut off solenoid.
Glad to be of help.
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Don't feel bad brother I was driving my 1992 7.3 idi died and I thought fuil pump but I was wrong still trying to figure it out lol thank u I'm really not sure what is wrong it's was running great
Did you ever get it figured out?
The fuse links are used to keep the wiring from burning 🔥 completely up .
Kinda makes sense if you think about it .
The glow plugs alone takes plenty of voltage to activate them .
The fuel solenoid is under constant DC Voltage with the ignition switch in the on position.
That the purpose of the FUSE LINKS !
Think you had the same owner my 88 F350 had. Lots of stupid stuff done to it and no maintenance. Done now. Is awesome.
The yellow wires go to the glow plug relay. They carry a LOT of amps, and it is common for them to burn up at the connection. The most common fix is to move them out of the connector but keep the connector intact for the rest of the wires (like was done here).
Correct.
I am planning to simply replace those wires with fresh ones so I have the best connections possible.
@@TheFSeries I just bought an 89 IDI and I’ve been sorting out the electrical issues. Your videos are helping a lot! On my truck the connector must have been totally fried because the previous owner got rid of it and spliced all the wires. At least I’m learning what all the wires do while I fix everything!
@@rockharvey5787 Glad to help man!
I feel your pain to some degree but the electrical stuff is actually incredibly helpful once you understand it. First things first is some proper diagnostic equipment which is mostly a multimeter for you, although a sounding device to find breaks in wires could be incredibly helpful. Next is a good solid wiring diagram. Hopefully you maintain colours and connectors so the diagram is always valid. Next just a basic, practical book on electronics and components. Ours are going to be pretty basic with just fuses, switches, solenoids, relays, lights and the radio. The only thing a little different is glow plugs. If you know your electronics, diagnosing a glow plug will be a piece of cake.
Just some food for thought. I agree it's great to have a mechanical engine, and this truck is nice to work on. I will say however that if you know how to use the electronics you can get 90% of your diagnosis done from the drivers seat.
Current clamp would help as well. If you got a simple oscilloscope with some current clamps and probes you could basically see everything you need to. There are some additional tools to see your fuel pulses to help you time the high pressure pump but that's basically electronics to get your "eyes" on a mechanical system without taking the front cover off.
Oh I fully agree and thanks for the tool suggestions.
I just hate electric in general when stuff tears up...
Sir ,thank for the video do you have the part number for this soiliod?? I am unable to find it ,if you could let me know please
Hey great vid I need to find out that part # and where you got it stuck with my rig and don't have the skins right now for a new pump can really use that info. Thanks great fix!
I don't have an actual part number; All I did was Google "Stanadyne 12v Fuel Shutoff Solenoid" and it came up
Great video it helped greatly. Also the same for the 6.9L IDI
Did you see the second ground for the passenger side? I had a local company make mine and the positive cables I ended up getting for a 95 ford dual battery truck. Was about a inch or to short so I had to cut a slot for it. But ive redone just about all of my electrical goodies..
The block heater wires get alot of power through them. Needs a good connection.
Thanks for putting this out
Where did you get that air filter housing, need one for my 92 7.3
Those phillips head cuts are to lightly reseat the bolts before using the ratchet, not to undo.
does anybody has the part numers or a link to the selenoid?
My 88 will not start in the morning, you can either it and it will start, after that it starts fine. It won't die unless you kill it in gear. I wonder if the shutoff is bad as well?
That or the metering rod is sticking
No. Your glowplug system is bad somewhere. Be careful with the ether and glow plugs fyi
Air intrusion. Start with your return lines
Thx Mate good video, might get a spare for mine, cheers
Can you send me the link that you bought it?
hey whats your belt sizing for the three on your rig with the ac eliminated
The 10ga yellow wires are the glowplug wires.
Were you able to find that fuel shutoff solenoid locally and remember a part number Thanks In advance
How can you tell the solenoid is bad just by looking at it??
Im working on changing mine out
If you apply 12v to the solenoid and it doesn’t click; it’s bad
@@TheFSeries a 12 volt what?
LOL...🤣@@ryanlevron1972
what happen to the manual fss? i cant find one online
From what I've gleaned, a manual fuel shutoff was only available for Agricultural equipment, etc.
For whatever reason, mine keeps leaking fuel.
Trust me, would MUCH rather have a manual setup.
@@TheFSeries your ip cover is leaking ?
Yeah, keeps trying to leak from the 2 power studs for the FSS
@8:00 ya, so there's that.
Those wires are cut because I'm sure they melted. That disconnect block always melts
I can see why; As it's a perfect place for corrosion (I.E: Resistance which equals to heat)
Amazon???? Have you went back in yet and changed it out to a Motorcraft?
Nope. 0 issues so far.
just picked up a 1990 F-SuperDuty. Mine is also an electrical nighmare
Very good video but ida took that sticker off the fuel shut off switch 😎
what was the part 3 of you solenoid? i need to get one for my sons truck
I bought a new solenoid for mine....
Technically its called an injection pump solenoid
Thank you!!!!!!!!!!
FYI_Fuel is NON-conductive
You forget in the 6.9 idea ID diesel
Send me the part # please
Hard to listen to rambling about wires. Get to the point