Hi Grant...nice tutorial you ask for clarity so here I hope it is.....the 6 little balls you refer to are not in fact balls but Pins each just over half an inch long and 0.197 diameter they have one rounded end facing up and the other is flat this goes through the bore and mates with a washer with a spring and collar for tension as you rotate the numbers....don't be scared take it to bits it won't bite. My issue is mine locks both ways and there is no fault?????? Mick
Hi Mick, thanks for the info on the rounded pins. After looking at the mechanism again, it is supposed to lock both ways. Looking at the shape of where the carrier interfaces with those 5 small roller pins, it is symmetrically shaped so should react / lock up when rotated in both directions. I think what happened in the video is not wholly indicative of how the system works (i.e. that carrier spinning one way and locking the other was just coincidence). I think if the carrier is stopped from rotating (by the friction of the gearbox / drive train) and the chuck is rotated by hand (in either direction), the pins ride up the side of the semi-circular relief cutout, are forced outwards and jam against the stationary outer ring that is pressed into the gearbox housing which results in the centre bolt of the chuck locking up (in both directions). Once this shaft locks and the chuck is rotated more, the chuck is either able to tighten up against a drill bit or loosen. When the carrier is driven / rotated by the motor, those 5 pins are forced inwards, into the semi-circular relief cutout, and lock the carrier to the centre shaft of the chuck for drilling action (in both directions).
I did find the fault and it was in fact the slipping tension, now sorted and it performs well, the guy is a plumber so it spends all of its time in brick dust! It's amazing how many cheepskate short cut they make to expensive tools.
@@GrantBurton Dear Sir! Could you please show or tell me where the hammer action happens? I have a DCD 796 with problem on the hammer action! I disassemble the hole gear box cleaned it and greased it. Finally I assemble it with no problem. Works really smooth but no Impact! Please advice if you can nothing seems to be wrong (to me)
Good breakdown my guy. I pulled my chuck off my DeWalt attempting to change it, that didn't pan out and in all of my glorious ignorance I turned it upside down right when I pulled the gearbox...well you can imagine the shower of gears bearings pins springs etc...and I was in a world of confusion until I watched this video.
Happy to hear that you managed to get it back together and the video was able to help... those gearboxes can be a little complicated if everything flies apart without having seen it before, and thanks for leaving the comment.
Thanks for your breakdown video grant! My speed switch had broken and so i replaced it and while disassembly the little aluminium clip which is visible at 8:05 fell out and i had no idea where to put it. Keep up the good work buddy! Congrats on the world cup too! go bokke!
Hi Gary, good to hear you managed to get your drill sorted out. Thanks very much... that final match was close, it had me on the edge of my seat right to the very end.
Excellent vid. I stripped my DCD796 only yesterday in order to replace the seized chuck. The gearbox make up on mine was slightly different in that it didn't have those bearings/ pins you showed at the end. Mine is a class 10. Great explanation as well.
Hi Matt, thanks for the feedback... did you manage to remove your chuck from the gearbox shaft? What did yours have if it didn't have those rollers / pins? anything special?
@@GrantBurton All the planetary gears were the same, it didn't (or I didn't see) the bearings which you uncovered which I think were actually roller bearings. Only a subtle difference. I had to strip all this out to get to the driver shaft of the chuck. I used a hammer and centre punch on this to knock it out whilst gripping it in the vice. This left me with the shaft with the chuck threaded on the end. This took some persuasion to unscrew, using heat and brute strength. Ive seen numerous videos of chuck removal and this is the only way.
Excellent vid!. ON my DCD791B the speed 1-2 selector broke where it engages the wireform. Cheap plastic part of poor design, or should have been steel! Drill almost new. Thanks. Ordered a replacement part for $1.26 from DeWalt + $6.99 UPS. Actually ordered two; one as a spare.
Hi twbrkfd1, thanks for the comment. It's a shame that the drill is already broken but good thing you were able to get replacement parts pretty cheap. Still, I wouldn't have expected a new tool to break so soon. Let us know how the repair turns out.
excellent tutorial! My Drill is having only one issue and i dont know how to fix it: if i select the hammer function and start drilling into concrete, after 2-3 seconds it jumps back into normal drill mode. im thinkin about dust fell into the chuck? does anybody know what to do?
Hi Glyn, I have captured more video of further strip down in order to remove the Chuck however after a few failed attempts at removing the chuck, I’ve not published the video yet.. wasn’t able to get the Chuck loose with an impact wrench or a breaker bar... could feel the shaft flexing while using the breaker bar, gave it a few good tries but didn’t want to push it past the point of no return, damage the shaft and still not have the Chuck loose. How did you manage to get your Chuck loose?
Thanks for this video. My drill keeps getting stuck in the hammer drill setting and this helped with how to take it apart. I think it was just dirty where the detent is
Brian Mason that’s cool, I’ve got mostly the same stuff... I’ve pretty much reviewed and done teardown videos for all of those. Feel free to check them out... If you do end up checking those videos out, let me know what you think, it’s always good to get feedback.
I'm very happy with mine so far. Plenty of power for my needs although if I could go back and purchase the drills again, I would buy one 796 and one 996 (I currently have two 796s) just to have the biggest one in the range for that 'one time in a year' that its needed. DCF 880 Impact Wrench and DCG 412 Grinder teardown coming up next Friday and the Friday after that. I'm aiming for a new video upload once a week on a Friday.
Grant Burton I am getting the little 708 atomic drill for those all day jobs like pre drilling decking and hanging doors where fatigue is an issue and getting the 796 or 996 for the heavy work.👍
@@interman7715 Looks like an interesting little unit. I wish I could get one of these to Teardown and Review. I like the small size, which makes it light weight to be using all day. I really hope Dewalt have not skimped on build quality with these Atomic series units... I believe it has a plastic tightening ring on the chuck (as apposed to the metal rings on the larger tools). Let me know your thoughts once yours arrives.
Great video! Just bought a 796 and straight out of the box o notice the chuck have a wobble, got it replaced, second one same problem. Is this common? I am very disappointed, would go for a 996 if wouldn't have the same problem
Hi Darius, I've heard of many people not being to happy with chucks on some of the models. It's basically a Rohm chuck. I think the outer tightening 'grip' ring might wobble a bit but it would be worth checking the runout on a 'known straight bit' once the chuck has been tightened and being held tightly by the teeth. Maybe its running acceptably true... I say 'acceptable' because these aren't precision tools / chucks. Of course if you can see the runout by eye, then it's probably a bad chuck.
HI Shaheed, Thanks. The chuck can be replaced however from what i read on the net and the odd video I've seen, it takes a bit of work as the entire drill has to be disassembled to get to the back of the arbor shaft so that it can be clamped and thereafter the chuck unscrewed.
Chiming in years later, having landed here after a search for a teardown so I can compare the internals to those of a Black and Decker 20v drill. Regarding the plastic markings, "PBT.TPE" is a single designation describing the rubber grip material.
Hallo.. thanks for sharing this great video.. i also got this drill. when i hit the trigger my drill work just fine but sometimes the speed is slowing down. it always happen when i use it. I dont know whats happening. Just in case you any salution.. thanks..
Fascinating and well done! The DCD 796 is a competent little drill. I think DeWalt makes a tough gearbox assembly for the most part; I just wish it had more refinement. I took one drill, albeit a DCD 791, back to my local big box store, as it sounded and felt like it was gonna self detonate in high gear. The runout on the Chuck was Atrocious, and the kicker was it had the “Made in USA” sticker on it. I was Very irritated my fellow Countrymen and women couldn’t put one of these together better than over in China. Ugh! Thanks for the video, and cheers! 😁👍🇺🇸
Hi George, thanks for the feedback. I have also noticed the chuck runout on both of my 796's is bad and have heard of many others saying the same but I've just learned to live with it. If i have to pick up another drill, I'll definitely have a close look at the chuck before it leaves the store.
Hi Steve, I believe its not easy to get the chuck off and I've never done it before. There is a video showing one method of removing it but I'm not sure if this is the best or most correct method... although it seemed to work for this guy. ruclips.net/video/WjK-MHnxohk/видео.html From that video, it looks like the chuck is threaded on with a normal thread (clockwise to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen) and there is no locking screw inside the chuck like most other drill chucks have. Maybe this helps? Also there is a forum where a few people talk about removing the chuck. forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/13327-how-to-remove-a-chuck-on-a-dcd-796/
Hi Dan, I suppose it would depend what size the universal adapter can be adjusted to. The ring at 17:09 is 49mm diameter x 11mm wide so I guess an adapter that could tighten onto those dimensions would work. It sure would be nice to have during some drilling operations. I've occasionally had it hookup when working in awkward locations and twist my wrist pretty bad.
@@GrantBurton thank you for giving the size. After searching have read in amazon review a buyer was able to put a specific handle model to this and it worked.
Dear Sir! This video is excellent. May be the best teardown of a drill. Could you please show or tell me where the hammer action happens? I have a DCD 796 with problem on the hammer action! I disassemble the hole gear box cleaned it and greased it. Finally I assemble it with no problem. It works really smooth and sounds great, but no Impact! Please advice if you can. Nothing seems to be wrong (to me)
Hi George, was your hammer function working before you disassembled the drill? I'm not exactly sure where or how the hammer action takes place but I guess its got something to do with what happens in the section of the gearbox assembly directly behind the chuck. I'm also interested to know how it works but I believe getting the chuck off is not an easy task which is why I haven't had a more in-depth look. When you assembled the gearbox again, did you insert all the small balls that can be seen at 19:36?
@@GrantBurton Dear Grand. Thank you for your answer. Be assured that I did not spoil it! The hammer function did not work so I had to open it. I have to tell you that I opened it before I saw your video. After the message I sent you, I studied the issue a lot and found a part list, which also had a drawing of the tool. Then, I realised what you are telling me now, about where the hammer function is. Unfortunately I will probably need to disassemble the tool once again, in order to remove the chuck. I will do it though. After that I will be considered an expert on the DeWALT DCD796. If you like I could send you the news... May be you would like to ask something (that was a jog) Thanks again!!!
I made it! The Dewalt is fixed and in great condition. I had to replace the gear case (DCD796--30-N438745) unfortunately it's plastic, a ratchet (DCD796--33-N047986), and the spindle (DCD796--46-N438748 ). I had to disassemble the whole gear into little pieces and gears then had to remove the chuck. After all these, everything is under three screws.
Just what I was after. The led on mine is flickering and doesn't always switch itself off so I'm goin to replace the board. Looks like it comes complete with the led.
Hi Salvador, is your model the DCD796 Type 1? Off hand, I don't have a link for spare parts that I trust (simple because I haven't had to order spared before) although I did search on amazon and this came up (it doesn't have any reviews so not sure if its any good) amzn.to/39BGTH6 It looks like it may be cheaper to buy a new bare tool looking at the price here amzn.to/39ChvB1 or even the bigger brother, the DCD996 here amzn.to/3rQmg0o I also found this on a quick Google search... Supposedly genuine Dewalt parts and they ship worldwide, and according to their website, compatible with the DCD791 and 796 Types 1, 2 and 3. www.ereplacementparts.com/motor-switch-assy-p-2816270.html If it's a similar cost to buy the repair parts as it is to buy a new bare tool, it may be better to buy a new bare tool as that at lease comes with warranty, etc. although thats up to you. Hope this helps.
Hi lykos30, I'm not exactly sure what type of grease is used in the gearbox but a good quality NLGI #2 grease that contains molybdenum disulfide would probably work just fine. I think you can buy grease from Dewalt but its very expensive.
Hi, it was just a general teardown video to see what it's like inside... nothing was wrong / broken with the drill. I think that is what you are asking?
Planetary gearboxes don't put much stress on the gearbox, so probably plenty strong. I'm watching these tear downs trying to find a planetary gearbox assembly to steal, lol Sadly I'll be in too hot of and environment for a plastic box.
I'm guessing most of the drills will have some components in their gearbox that are plastic, even the higher end drills... What project are you trying to build that requires working in such a hot environment?
Off the top of my head, nothing springs to mind of an exact fault however it does remind me of the same type of fault (pull trigger and lights flash but no motor turning) if the battery cell voltages are to low or if battery has hit thermal overload. With what you describe and having tried two batteries, it doesn’t sound like a battery problem... I wonder if one of the signal wires inside the drill has broken off (one of the wires between the battery terminal connector and the pc board?) There are 4 battery terminals that get fed into the drill... B+, TH, C3 and B- In the past, I’ve tried to remotely connect the battery to the unit with jumper leads and if TH or C3 are not connected, or have a bad connection, the lights flash but motor doesn’t turn, and this is what makes me think it could be a bad connection at the drills terminals or one of those wires broke off inside. I may be wrong but hope it helps?
Hi Chris, Main reason is because of price... The 996 was double the price of the 796 at time I made the purchase. I also figured when using the drill for extended periods or in tight spaces, the 796 would be better suited (I rarely need the power of the 996). If I could choose again, I would have one 996 and one 796 to have the best of both worlds (currently have 2 x 796's).
Yea, in combo kit form you can get the 996 for fairly close to what a 796 is priced I think because the 998 is phasing in. The length is about an inch wider which might buy you some clearance between studs but honestly worst case scenario you can carry a right angle drill attachment is what I was thinking although awkward. Thanks for responding and posting!
I think if the price is in the ball park, then go for the 996. I also have the right angle attachment but haven't used it much although for its price, its cheap enough to have lying around for the one time. Here is a link to the video ruclips.net/video/HnFWyMhqWho/видео.html I also recommend getting the kit with 5.0Ah batteries over the smaller capacity batteries. Something like this? amzn.to/2GCRy94 (it's an Amazon link) Some mixed reviews although I think overall feedback is good. There is also a newer right angle attachment DWARA120. Unfortunately I don't have a review / teardown for that one yet.
Hi Hahn, I believe its not easy to get the chuck off and I've never done it before. There is a video showing one method of removing it but I'm not sure if this is the best or most correct method... although it seemed to work for this guy. ruclips.net/video/WjK-MHnxohk/видео.html Maybe this helps? Also there is a forum where a few people talk about removing the chuck. forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/13327-how-to-remove-a-chuck-on-a-dcd-796/
Thank for that link George, I thought I posted that same video in my reply to Hahn above but it seems by mistake I just put the forum link where the video link was supposed to be and the video link where the forum link was supposed to be... It's was to the same video you just referred to... thanks for making me look back and notice the mistake. (I'll edit the reply and make the correction)
Its a very useful and capable drill... Medium size with good power and good quality. I use mine all the time with a 5aH/h battery. How much do they cost in Indonesia?
@@GrantBurton yes, in my opinion this is the best hammer drill officially available here, kit price idr 2400K (160usd). then to get 996, 999, milwaukee and others we have to buy on amazon or ebay
@@buds_budss The DCD998 looks promising... Not sure if its available there yet. It's their new Power Detect drill and supposedly is more powerful than the Flex Volt DCD999 (I haven't personally tested this but from what I hear from others). 160USD sounds fair, not too bad.
You’ve owned it for a year and half and used it quite a lot hey? The one u are pulling apart hasn’t seen a day or two of any drilling let alone the amount you claim. Why lie?
Hi Mark emarc, don't you remember all the times you helped me out in and around the garage, all the maintenance we did and how often we used the drill, and how sticky I was about looking after them and not just throwing them around? of course not, because you weren't around (in fact, you have never been around)... so I guess you know exactly how much they have or haven't been used? Thanks for the comment though, but would you like to try again? For reference, I have two of these drills (the exact same model), both of which I've used a fair amount and still work well. One of the chucks got a little rusty and is a bit sticky now (my fault - ended up getting caught in the rain on a job) but overall, I look after my tools, don't throw them around or scuff them up, etc. so even though they don't look well used, they do in fact get used (although both are looking a little more weathered some 5 years later). Anyway, hope you have a nice day.
Hi Attila, the chuck is removable but it's not easy to remove. I've had a few people asking how to remove the chuck so I might make a chuck removal video sometime in the near future.
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Hi Grant...nice tutorial you ask for clarity so here I hope it is.....the 6 little balls you refer to are not in fact balls but Pins each just over half an inch long and 0.197 diameter they have one rounded end facing up and the other is flat this goes through the bore and mates with a washer with a spring and collar for tension as you rotate the numbers....don't be scared take it to bits it won't bite.
My issue is mine locks both ways and there is no fault??????
Mick
Hi Mick, thanks for the info on the rounded pins.
After looking at the mechanism again, it is supposed to lock both ways.
Looking at the shape of where the carrier interfaces with those 5 small roller pins, it is symmetrically shaped so should react / lock up when rotated in both directions. I think what happened in the video is not wholly indicative of how the system works (i.e. that carrier spinning one way and locking the other was just coincidence).
I think if the carrier is stopped from rotating (by the friction of the gearbox / drive train) and the chuck is rotated by hand (in either direction), the pins ride up the side of the semi-circular relief cutout, are forced outwards and jam against the stationary outer ring that is pressed into the gearbox housing which results in the centre bolt of the chuck locking up (in both directions). Once this shaft locks and the chuck is rotated more, the chuck is either able to tighten up against a drill bit or loosen.
When the carrier is driven / rotated by the motor, those 5 pins are forced inwards, into the semi-circular relief cutout, and lock the carrier to the centre shaft of the chuck for drilling action (in both directions).
I did find the fault and it was in fact the slipping tension, now sorted and it performs well, the guy is a plumber so it spends all of its time in brick dust! It's amazing how many cheepskate short cut they make to expensive tools.
@@GrantBurton Dear Sir! Could you please show or tell me where the hammer action happens? I have a DCD 796 with problem on the hammer action! I disassemble the hole gear box cleaned it and greased it. Finally I assemble it with no problem. Works really smooth but no Impact! Please advice if you can nothing seems to be wrong (to me)
Just used your video to repair the Chuck on my Dewalt. Thanks for taking the time to make this video…. Was a big help.
Hi Everett, thanks for the comment and glad I has able to help.
Good breakdown my guy. I pulled my chuck off my DeWalt attempting to change it, that didn't pan out and in all of my glorious ignorance I turned it upside down right when I pulled the gearbox...well you can imagine the shower of gears bearings pins springs etc...and I was in a world of confusion until I watched this video.
Happy to hear that you managed to get it back together and the video was able to help... those gearboxes can be a little complicated if everything flies apart without having seen it before, and thanks for leaving the comment.
Thanks for your breakdown video grant! My speed switch had broken and so i replaced it and while disassembly the little aluminium clip which is visible at 8:05 fell out and i had no idea where to put it. Keep up the good work buddy!
Congrats on the world cup too!
go bokke!
Hi Gary, good to hear you managed to get your drill sorted out. Thanks very much... that final match was close, it had me on the edge of my seat right to the very end.
Best teardown video of this drill so far :)
Thank you, DCF 880 Impact Wrench and DCG 412 Grinder teardown coming up next Friday. Im aiming for a new video upload once a week on a Friday.
Great! I messed up the one at work. Now I can fix it 👍🏽 thanks!
Hi Elvis, happy I was able to help and thanks for letting us know. Have an awesome day and good luck with the repair.
thank you very much,,you let me know how brushless motor works,and in my opinion this is a device that uses the brain in operation.
Thanks alot mate ,I've managed to fix my drill which I thought had a stripped gearbox turns out the speed selection part caused it to jam up
Hi Zander, awesome 😁 good to hear your drill is working again.
Excellent vid. I stripped my DCD796 only yesterday in order to replace the seized chuck. The gearbox make up on mine was slightly different in that it didn't have those bearings/ pins you showed at the end. Mine is a class 10. Great explanation as well.
Hi Matt, thanks for the feedback... did you manage to remove your chuck from the gearbox shaft?
What did yours have if it didn't have those rollers / pins? anything special?
@@GrantBurton All the planetary gears were the same, it didn't (or I didn't see) the bearings which you uncovered which I think were actually roller bearings. Only a subtle difference. I had to strip all this out to get to the driver shaft of the chuck. I used a hammer and centre punch on this to knock it out whilst gripping it in the vice. This left me with the shaft with the chuck threaded on the end. This took some persuasion to unscrew, using heat and brute strength. Ive seen numerous videos of chuck removal and this is the only way.
Excellent vid!. ON my DCD791B the speed 1-2 selector broke where it engages the wireform. Cheap plastic part of poor design, or should have been steel! Drill almost new. Thanks. Ordered a replacement part for $1.26 from DeWalt + $6.99 UPS. Actually ordered two; one as a spare.
Hi twbrkfd1, thanks for the comment. It's a shame that the drill is already broken but good thing you were able to get replacement parts pretty cheap. Still, I wouldn't have expected a new tool to break so soon. Let us know how the repair turns out.
excellent tutorial! My Drill is having only one issue and i dont know how to fix it: if i select the hammer function and start drilling into concrete, after 2-3 seconds it jumps back into normal drill mode. im thinkin about dust fell into the chuck? does anybody know what to do?
I Have fitted 2 chucks so far on my 796, it involves further stripdown than this video shows but can be done if your confident
Hi Glyn, I have captured more video of further strip down in order to remove the Chuck however after a few failed attempts at removing the chuck, I’ve not published the video yet.. wasn’t able to get the Chuck loose with an impact wrench or a breaker bar... could feel the shaft flexing while using the breaker bar, gave it a few good tries but didn’t want to push it past the point of no return, damage the shaft and still not have the Chuck loose.
How did you manage to get your Chuck loose?
Thanks for this video. My drill keeps getting stuck in the hammer drill setting and this helped with how to take it apart. I think it was just dirty where the detent is
Hi Brian, thank you... glad I was able to help. What other Dewalt tools do you have?
@@GrantBurton impact driver, circular saw, palm sander, grinders, oscillating cut off tool, flashlight
Brian Mason that’s cool, I’ve got mostly the same stuff... I’ve pretty much reviewed and done teardown videos for all of those. Feel free to check them out... If you do end up checking those videos out, let me know what you think, it’s always good to get feedback.
@@GrantBurton
Fameiy stroke
italian u
Her in the Philippines its so hard to find the replacement parts of Dewalt tools😒
Tnx Grant its a big help for a tutorial video like this...
Hello, it's only a pleasure... always great to get feedback on the videos, thank you.
Excellent video... keep up the good work, and high quality!
Thank you very much!
Ty, it was really helpfull
It’s a pleasure.
Thanks Tim from Australia ,btw these cordless drills are very impressive for the power they put out .
I'm very happy with mine so far. Plenty of power for my needs although if I could go back and purchase the drills again, I would buy one 796 and one 996 (I currently have two 796s) just to have the biggest one in the range for that 'one time in a year' that its needed. DCF 880 Impact Wrench and DCG 412 Grinder teardown coming up next Friday and the Friday after that. I'm aiming for a new video upload once a week on a Friday.
Grant Burton I am getting the little 708 atomic drill for those all day jobs like pre drilling decking and hanging doors where fatigue is an issue and getting the 796 or 996 for the heavy work.👍
@@interman7715 Looks like an interesting little unit. I wish I could get one of these to Teardown and Review. I like the small size, which makes it light weight to be using all day. I really hope Dewalt have not skimped on build quality with these Atomic series units... I believe it has a plastic tightening ring on the chuck (as apposed to the metal rings on the larger tools). Let me know your thoughts once yours arrives.
Grant Burton The plastic outer ring doesn't bother me ,keeps the drill lighter and is easy to tighten with sweaty hands.
@@interman7715 Thats a good point about the plastic chuck. Do you already have the drill? How has its performance?
thank you
You're welcome
Great video! Just bought a 796 and straight out of the box o notice the chuck have a wobble, got it replaced, second one same problem. Is this common?
I am very disappointed, would go for a 996 if wouldn't have the same problem
Hi Darius, I've heard of many people not being to happy with chucks on some of the models. It's basically a Rohm chuck. I think the outer tightening 'grip' ring might wobble a bit but it would be worth checking the runout on a 'known straight bit' once the chuck has been tightened and being held tightly by the teeth. Maybe its running acceptably true... I say 'acceptable' because these aren't precision tools / chucks.
Of course if you can see the runout by eye, then it's probably a bad chuck.
Great video... cheers. So you can’t just replace the chuck on its own? Like other drills.
HI Shaheed, Thanks. The chuck can be replaced however from what i read on the net and the odd video I've seen, it takes a bit of work as the entire drill has to be disassembled to get to the back of the arbor shaft so that it can be clamped and thereafter the chuck unscrewed.
Chiming in years later, having landed here after a search for a teardown so I can compare the internals to those of a Black and Decker 20v drill. Regarding the plastic markings, "PBT.TPE" is a single designation describing the rubber grip material.
Thanks very much for the info. Did you manage to find some Black and Decker teardowns? If you did, what are your thoughts?
Hallo.. thanks for sharing this great video.. i also got this drill. when i hit the trigger my drill work just fine but sometimes the speed is slowing down. it always happen when i use it. I dont know whats happening. Just in case you any salution.. thanks..
Hello, have you tried a different battery? It sounds like the battery is rapidly loosing power as you pull the trigger.
Fascinating and well done! The DCD 796 is a competent little drill. I think DeWalt makes a tough gearbox assembly for the most part; I just wish it had more refinement. I took one drill, albeit a DCD 791, back to my local big box store, as it sounded and felt like it was gonna self detonate in high gear. The runout on the Chuck was Atrocious, and the kicker was it had the “Made in USA” sticker on it. I was Very irritated my fellow Countrymen and women couldn’t put one of these together better than over in China. Ugh! Thanks for the video, and cheers! 😁👍🇺🇸
Hi George, thanks for the feedback. I have also noticed the chuck runout on both of my 796's is bad and have heard of many others saying the same but I've just learned to live with it. If i have to pick up another drill, I'll definitely have a close look at the chuck before it leaves the store.
So how does the chuck come off if you want to replace just the chuck?
Hi Steve, I believe its not easy to get the chuck off and I've never done it before. There is a video showing one method of removing it but I'm not sure if this is the best or most correct method... although it seemed to work for this guy. ruclips.net/video/WjK-MHnxohk/видео.html
From that video, it looks like the chuck is threaded on with a normal thread (clockwise to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen) and there is no locking screw inside the chuck like most other drill chucks have.
Maybe this helps?
Also there is a forum where a few people talk about removing the chuck. forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/13327-how-to-remove-a-chuck-on-a-dcd-796/
17:09 is it possible to put universal handle in the metal between the chuck and clutch with this model?
Hi Dan, I suppose it would depend what size the universal adapter can be adjusted to. The ring at 17:09 is 49mm diameter x 11mm wide so I guess an adapter that could tighten onto those dimensions would work. It sure would be nice to have during some drilling operations. I've occasionally had it hookup when working in awkward locations and twist my wrist pretty bad.
@@GrantBurton thank you for giving the size. After searching have read in amazon review a buyer was able to put a specific handle model to this and it worked.
@@DanDan-li4hr Wonderful, that’s good news. Can you share a link to the handle?
@@GrantBurton N443408 drill handle
if I post a link here I don't know why it doesn't show
thanks for the video! i opened my own and the gears popped out so i used the video to put it back together..cheers
Hi Kevan, I'm happy to hear the video assisted you. Was there a problem with your drill that you took it apart?
Dear Sir! This video is excellent. May be the best teardown of a drill.
Could you please show or tell me where the hammer action happens?
I have a DCD 796 with problem on the hammer action! I disassemble the hole gear box cleaned it and greased it.
Finally I assemble it with no problem. It works really smooth and sounds great, but no Impact! Please advice if you can.
Nothing seems to be wrong (to me)
Hi George, was your hammer function working before you disassembled the drill?
I'm not exactly sure where or how the hammer action takes place but I guess its got something to do with what happens in the section of the gearbox assembly directly behind the chuck. I'm also interested to know how it works but I believe getting the chuck off is not an easy task which is why I haven't had a more in-depth look.
When you assembled the gearbox again, did you insert all the small balls that can be seen at 19:36?
@@GrantBurton Dear Grand.
Thank you for your answer.
Be assured that I did not spoil it!
The hammer function did not work so I had to open it.
I have to tell you that I opened it before I saw your video.
After the message I sent you, I studied the issue a lot and found a part list, which also had a drawing of the tool.
Then, I realised what you are telling me now, about where the hammer function is.
Unfortunately I will probably need to disassemble the tool once again, in order to remove the chuck.
I will do it though. After that I will be considered an expert on the DeWALT DCD796.
If you like I could send you the news...
May be you would like to ask something (that was a jog)
Thanks again!!!
I made it!
The Dewalt is fixed and in great condition.
I had to replace the gear case (DCD796--30-N438745) unfortunately it's plastic, a ratchet (DCD796--33-N047986), and the spindle (DCD796--46-N438748 ).
I had to disassemble the whole gear into little pieces and gears then had to remove the chuck.
After all these, everything is under three screws.
Just what I was after. The led on mine is flickering and doesn't always switch itself off so I'm goin to replace the board. Looks like it comes complete with the led.
Hi Rodger, did you manage to find a replacement board?
@@GrantBurton I did but I haven't bought it yet.
Very nice video.. all brands have plastic gearbox even makita. But its a great machine im very happy with it.
I'm also super happy with mine so far. Just hope its going to last many years because they are fairly expensive, well at least in South Africa.
Great video! Thanks.
You're welcome!
Hello do you have a link to purchase a dcd796 motor and switch thanks
Hi Salvador, is your model the DCD796 Type 1?
Off hand, I don't have a link for spare parts that I trust (simple because I haven't had to order spared before) although I did search on amazon and this came up (it doesn't have any reviews so not sure if its any good) amzn.to/39BGTH6
It looks like it may be cheaper to buy a new bare tool looking at the price here amzn.to/39ChvB1 or even the bigger brother, the DCD996 here amzn.to/3rQmg0o
I also found this on a quick Google search... Supposedly genuine Dewalt parts and they ship worldwide, and according to their website, compatible with the DCD791 and 796 Types 1, 2 and 3. www.ereplacementparts.com/motor-switch-assy-p-2816270.html
If it's a similar cost to buy the repair parts as it is to buy a new bare tool, it may be better to buy a new bare tool as that at lease comes with warranty, etc. although thats up to you.
Hope this helps.
What kind of grease do you use ??? Lithium soap???
Hi lykos30, I'm not exactly sure what type of grease is used in the gearbox but a good quality NLGI #2 grease that contains molybdenum disulfide would probably work just fine. I think you can buy grease from Dewalt but its very expensive.
@@GrantBurton thanks you a lot!!! Good work...
Why u did it strip the clutch?
Hi, it was just a general teardown video to see what it's like inside... nothing was wrong / broken with the drill. I think that is what you are asking?
@@GrantBurton sorry i was going to ask why didn’t u strip the hammer side
Planetary gearboxes don't put much stress on the gearbox, so probably plenty strong. I'm watching these tear downs trying to find a planetary gearbox assembly to steal, lol Sadly I'll be in too hot of and environment for a plastic box.
I'm guessing most of the drills will have some components in their gearbox that are plastic, even the higher end drills... What project are you trying to build that requires working in such a hot environment?
how to change the dcd796 chuck, i am having a little trouble opening the chuck
Hi Dinwahyudi, I'll soon be having a go at removing the chuck from one of my drills. Will definitely make a video of that to keep an eye out.
Nice
Thank you.
Hello my drill stop to,work when I press the button it just blinks the light any help thanks.?
Hi Salvador, do you have a second battery to test the drill? to see if its the battery or the drill thats faulty?
@@GrantBurton yes bro I have a second one I tested it and still, don't works
Off the top of my head, nothing springs to mind of an exact fault however it does remind me of the same type of fault (pull trigger and lights flash but no motor turning) if the battery cell voltages are to low or if battery has hit thermal overload.
With what you describe and having tried two batteries, it doesn’t sound like a battery problem... I wonder if one of the signal wires inside the drill has broken off (one of the wires between the battery terminal connector and the pc board?)
There are 4 battery terminals that get fed into the drill... B+, TH, C3 and B-
In the past, I’ve tried to remotely connect the battery to the unit with jumper leads and if TH or C3 are not connected, or have a bad connection, the lights flash but motor doesn’t turn, and this is what makes me think it could be a bad connection at the drills terminals or one of those wires broke off inside.
I may be wrong but hope it helps?
@@GrantBurton Ok thanks I check to see what happens ok thank you
Any reason you chose this vs. 996?
Hi Chris, Main reason is because of price... The 996 was double the price of the 796 at time I made the purchase. I also figured when using the drill for extended periods or in tight spaces, the 796 would be better suited (I rarely need the power of the 996). If I could choose again, I would have one 996 and one 796 to have the best of both worlds (currently have 2 x 796's).
Are you wanting to buy one of these?
Yea, in combo kit form you can get the 996 for fairly close to what a 796 is priced I think because the 998 is phasing in. The length is about an inch wider which might buy you some clearance between studs but honestly worst case scenario you can carry a right angle drill attachment is what I was thinking although awkward. Thanks for responding and posting!
I think if the price is in the ball park, then go for the 996. I also have the right angle attachment but haven't used it much although for its price, its cheap enough to have lying around for the one time. Here is a link to the video ruclips.net/video/HnFWyMhqWho/видео.html
I also recommend getting the kit with 5.0Ah batteries over the smaller capacity batteries. Something like this? amzn.to/2GCRy94 (it's an Amazon link) Some mixed reviews although I think overall feedback is good.
There is also a newer right angle attachment DWARA120. Unfortunately I don't have a review / teardown for that one yet.
You smart 🤓
Thank you.
How to remove chuck 796 video pls
Hi Hahn, I believe its not easy to get the chuck off and I've never done it before. There is a video showing one method of removing it but I'm not sure if this is the best or most correct method... although it seemed to work for this guy. ruclips.net/video/WjK-MHnxohk/видео.html
Maybe this helps?
Also there is a forum where a few people talk about removing the chuck. forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/13327-how-to-remove-a-chuck-on-a-dcd-796/
ruclips.net/video/WjK-MHnxohk/видео.html
Thank for that link George, I thought I posted that same video in my reply to Hahn above but it seems by mistake I just put the forum link where the video link was supposed to be and the video link where the forum link was supposed to be... It's was to the same video you just referred to... thanks for making me look back and notice the mistake. (I'll edit the reply and make the correction)
dcd796 is a very famous hammer drill in Indonesia
Its a very useful and capable drill... Medium size with good power and good quality. I use mine all the time with a 5aH/h battery.
How much do they cost in Indonesia?
@@GrantBurton yes, in my opinion this is the best hammer drill officially available here, kit price idr 2400K (160usd). then to get 996, 999, milwaukee and others we have to buy on amazon or ebay
@@buds_budss The DCD998 looks promising... Not sure if its available there yet. It's their new Power Detect drill and supposedly is more powerful than the Flex Volt DCD999 (I haven't personally tested this but from what I hear from others).
160USD sounds fair, not too bad.
You’ve owned it for a year and half and used it quite a lot hey? The one u are pulling apart hasn’t seen a day or two of any drilling let alone the amount you claim. Why lie?
Hi Mark emarc, don't you remember all the times you helped me out in and around the garage, all the maintenance we did and how often we used the drill, and how sticky I was about looking after them and not just throwing them around? of course not, because you weren't around (in fact, you have never been around)... so I guess you know exactly how much they have or haven't been used?
Thanks for the comment though, but would you like to try again?
For reference, I have two of these drills (the exact same model), both of which I've used a fair amount and still work well. One of the chucks got a little rusty and is a bit sticky now (my fault - ended up getting caught in the rain on a job) but overall, I look after my tools, don't throw them around or scuff them up, etc. so even though they don't look well used, they do in fact get used (although both are looking a little more weathered some 5 years later).
Anyway, hope you have a nice day.
A drill with a non removable chuck is a joke. Or wait, that's not a joke. Its called disposable tool.
Hi Attila, the chuck is removable but it's not easy to remove. I've had a few people asking how to remove the chuck so I might make a chuck removal video sometime in the near future.
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