Great video very easy to follow instructions. Would it make the process faster if you were to syphon or suck out some of the fluid from the reservoir and putting new stuff in before starting the bleeding process?
One, thanks for watching and the feedback. Two, There is a suction device that can pump the brake fluid through . That totally an option. BUT (a big but) don't use your mouth, that stuff is super, super toxic and corrosive (it will eat your paint is in seconds). I wouldn't use your mouth for safety reasons, but you can use this method or the brake fluid pump. 😊
To minimize air backing into the system, pour some brake fluid into the bottle. Enough so the tube is immersed in the fluid. That was the part you missed in science.... lol. Ride safe.
Great video which has given me the courage to try it. I have one question. Should I keep the master cylinder reservoir screwed in so the fluid doesn’t get all over the place? Thanks again
You can just keep the cover resting on top. But If you screwed it in, it's like putting your hand at the end of a hose and create it's own vacuum at the top not allowing the air to help the brake fluid exit the bottom. Hope that helps and thanks for the watch and question!
Awesome video. Thank you for the low tech method of doing breaks. I prefer low tech methods. This was a big help. I noticed my rear break reservoir is low. didn't know how to top her off and or do a brake job on my bike. until now thank you again.
Cool. Have you still got the Vulcan? If so, i need you to do a vid of flushing the coolant system 🤣🤣🤣 I’ve just bought one and no idea when brake fluid or coolant changed
@@ManCalledHorse hi it’s 2007. I’m up in Canada and just got the bike and will do all the fluids in the spring as I’ve no idea when they were last done. I’ve found a decent vid showing how to drain and fill so no panic.
I would stick with which "Dot" fluid your bike manual says. My bike takes "Dot 4" but I can use 5.1 because they are both glycol based, while Dot 5 is silicone based and they cannot be mixed (even if drained and replaced). Your brake system is designed specifically what type of brake fluid it states. If your bike already runs Dot 5 synthetic and your manual says that is what you need, then yes, otherwise I wouldn't switch it up. I hope that helps!
Either it is air (not building hydraulic pressure), not enough fluid, or pad guide pins aren't lubricated. If it ain't those, it could be something in the actual mechanism in the foot pedal area (the hydraulic plunger would be my first start in that area because It is one of those parts that needs to be serviced ever so often during maintenance due to its rubber parts).
@@ManCalledHorse I pushed the foot peddle a bunch but maybe I should keep doing it. I bled the new fluid until it came out clear. Does it take a bit to get the rotors to grip?
@@MrJHolwerda when you did the rear brakes, did you change the pads(only reason why I'm asking is to see if you spread your caliper open). If not and only did the brake fluid, at any time did the reservoir go empty? Wait... Do you see any leaking anywhere from master cylinder, line, to the caliper? The rear caliper should have two bleed ports. Is one of those two still open?
I'm guessing the part you are talking about is when I extracted it a good portion of the old brake fluid but left some in the reservoir, correct? The manual said for me to avoid emptying the reservoir completely to avoid air being sucked into the brake lines. So, to avoid air going to the brake lines I topped it off with fresh fluid and flushed the old fluid out the brake lines until I got fresh fluid coming through. The bottom line is to avoid air getting into the brake lines. Hope that clarifies. Thanks for the comment and watching! 🙂
I always use a suction Baster to empty the reservoir first ,then fill with fresh fluid ! Don’t pump till you fill with fresh fluid! It don’t take near as long ! If you got a helper to do the lever pumping helps a lot! 😎🇺🇸🏴☠️🇺🇸🏴☠️🇺🇸🏴☠️🇺🇸FYI that’s not a crescent wrench! That’s a 6 or 12 point open end wrench of what ever size you need! Crescent wrench has adjustable jaws for different size bolts or nuts!😎
I was thinking the same way pull out all the dirty fluid and fill with fresh then pump the old out,less time, and as far as the two nipples in the back brake it has two pistons for even pressure on the brake caliper plus less foot pressure to brake as well
![KAWASAKI VULCAN [1988]-- FRONT BRAKE FLUID CHANGE EASY or NOT ? 👨🔧](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/duGk9QqWZAI/mqdefault.jpg)
need a vid on the coolant change. You Rock!!
Thanks for the idea! Are you looking for an easy way to do it?
Convenient to have a video that shows both the front and back brakes. Most videos only do the front
Thanks for the feedback! I noticed that too, the rear brake never seems to get any love, lol!! Thanks for the watch and comment! 🙂👊
Thanks! This should be the perfect guide for my 1999 model💙
Awesome, I'm glad this can help!
Great video very easy to follow instructions.
Would it make the process faster if you were to syphon or suck out some of the fluid from the reservoir and putting new stuff in before starting the bleeding process?
One, thanks for watching and the feedback. Two, There is a suction device that can pump the brake fluid through . That totally an option. BUT (a big but) don't use your mouth, that stuff is super, super toxic and corrosive (it will eat your paint is in seconds). I wouldn't use your mouth for safety reasons, but you can use this method or the brake fluid pump. 😊
To minimize air backing into the system, pour some brake fluid into the bottle. Enough so the tube is immersed in the fluid. That was the part you missed in science.... lol.
Ride safe.
I will try that out next time I do my brakes to see if it stops the back flow of air back into the brake lines, lol. :)
Also can add a one way valve so air cant go backwards
This was great! You did a wonderful job at the details and the relatability! Gratitude
Thank you so much for the watch and feedback! I hope it helps! 🙂🙏
Great video which has given me the courage to try it. I have one question. Should I keep the master cylinder reservoir screwed in so the fluid doesn’t get all over the place? Thanks again
You can just keep the cover resting on top. But If you screwed it in, it's like putting your hand at the end of a hose and create it's own vacuum at the top not allowing the air to help the brake fluid exit the bottom. Hope that helps and thanks for the watch and question!
Awesome video. Thank you for the low tech method of doing breaks. I prefer low tech methods. This was a big help. I noticed my rear break reservoir is low. didn't know how to top her off and or do a brake job on my bike. until now thank you again.
I am so happy you got something from the video! Thank you so much for the view and feedback! 🙂👊💯
Low brake fluid can also be an indicator of your brake pads being worn out.
Great guide, big thanks !!!
Thanks for the video. Informative 👍👍
Cool. Have you still got the Vulcan? If so, i need you to do a vid of flushing the coolant system 🤣🤣🤣 I’ve just bought one and no idea when brake fluid or coolant changed
What year is your Vulcan? Are you planning on changing the coolant type (such as glycol green to blue engine ice)?
@@ManCalledHorse hi it’s 2007. I’m up in Canada and just got the bike and will do all the fluids in the spring as I’ve no idea when they were last done. I’ve found a decent vid showing how to drain and fill so no panic.
Great vid
Can I use synthetic oil?
I would stick with which "Dot" fluid your bike manual says. My bike takes "Dot 4" but I can use 5.1 because they are both glycol based, while Dot 5 is silicone based and they cannot be mixed (even if drained and replaced). Your brake system is designed specifically what type of brake fluid it states. If your bike already runs Dot 5 synthetic and your manual says that is what you need, then yes, otherwise I wouldn't switch it up. I hope that helps!
Great video for a great bike!!
Thank you and that's for watch and comment! 👊🔥
Great video!!! It's interesting how the rear cailper has two bleed nipples... I wonder why?! Lol. Thanks for taking the time to educate us!!!
It is interesting the rear has two, right? Thanks so much for the watch and the feedback! 👊💯
Very interesting!! Lol. Even my Clymer manual doesn't say anything about it! Lol. Thanks again and Merry Christmas to you and your family!!! Don
@@donwolfjr1 Merry Christmas to you too!
What diameter tubing where you using when you displayed the aquarium tubing and wrench alternative?
It was just standard aquarium air tubing from the pet store. Most likely 3/16 inch.
My rear breaks dont seem to be engaging after I bled them, front are working great....any tips
Either it is air (not building hydraulic pressure), not enough fluid, or pad guide pins aren't lubricated. If it ain't those, it could be something in the actual mechanism in the foot pedal area (the hydraulic plunger would be my first start in that area because It is one of those parts that needs to be serviced ever so often during maintenance due to its rubber parts).
Did you pump the foot brake after servicing until the pads closed to grip the rotor? I would actually start there before undoing everything.
@@ManCalledHorse I pushed the foot peddle a bunch but maybe I should keep doing it. I bled the new fluid until it came out clear. Does it take a bit to get the rotors to grip?
@@MrJHolwerda when you did the rear brakes, did you change the pads(only reason why I'm asking is to see if you spread your caliper open). If not and only did the brake fluid, at any time did the reservoir go empty? Wait... Do you see any leaking anywhere from master cylinder, line, to the caliper? The rear caliper should have two bleed ports. Is one of those two still open?
@@MrJHolwerda it shouldn't take more than 5-10 pumps if you didn't spread open the caliper.
What size ratchet is used to take off the back brake res cover?
I think it was either an 8 or 6 mm socket. But it comes off pretty easily. 🙂
What if air is already in the liquid ne
I like your videos 🌹
Thank you so much and thank you for the comment too! 👊🙂
Why wouldn’t you clean fluid out of the chamber first so you don’t have to pull the dirty fluid through
I'm guessing the part you are talking about is when I extracted it a good portion of the old brake fluid but left some in the reservoir, correct? The manual said for me to avoid emptying the reservoir completely to avoid air being sucked into the brake lines. So, to avoid air going to the brake lines I topped it off with fresh fluid and flushed the old fluid out the brake lines until I got fresh fluid coming through. The bottom line is to avoid air getting into the brake lines. Hope that clarifies. Thanks for the comment and watching! 🙂
I always use a suction Baster to empty the reservoir first ,then fill with fresh fluid ! Don’t pump till you fill with fresh fluid! It don’t take near as long ! If you got a helper to do the lever pumping helps a lot! 😎🇺🇸🏴☠️🇺🇸🏴☠️🇺🇸🏴☠️🇺🇸FYI that’s not a crescent wrench! That’s a 6 or 12 point open end wrench of what ever size you need! Crescent wrench has adjustable jaws for different size bolts or nuts!😎
I was thinking the same way pull out all the dirty fluid and fill with fresh then pump the old out,less time, and as far as the two nipples in the back brake it has two pistons for even pressure on the brake caliper plus less foot pressure to brake as well
Like the vid, but why all the sniffing? hmmmm?
Can I say it's the solvents? 🤣