I love how we see the concrete being mixed on site, and the first barrow load being tipped: next scene; all the concrete's been poured and we're working it around. Easy (!).
Definitely not over engineered. I installed a similar base for a garden building from a well known brand. If the base is not SPOT ON and you have issues they’re known for wriggling out of the guarantee… you can’t just sling it onto a few paving stones. 😊
I got lucky, I had to pour about that much concrete this year and was planning to do by hand but the next door neighbour had builders round so I chatted them up to use the mixer for the weekend, had it knocked out in 3 hours, happy days!
To be honest, the first base I built for my small shed was such a ballache, as I hand mixed all the concrete, that the next time I just bought a load of breeze blocks from wickes and put my other shed on that, jobs a goodun, and so much easier
Hi Roger. One thing you didn’t mention, but was shown is keeping the steel reinforcement back about 30mm from the face of the base concrete. Your man on site cut the mesh bars at about that distance short of the edge. That way the alkaline cement in the concrete protects the steel from rust/oxidisation when exposed to rain and oxygen and the potential for the rusting steel to expand and break out. I have seen A lot (and repaired some) concrete staircases and balconies where there wasn’t enough cover to the reinforcement steels and chunks of concrete can delaminate/“blow off” as the steel rusts and expands. Obviously more dangerous at height and in suspended concrete. Just a bit of good practice I noticed in your video.
We follow a similar rule but because we work in industrial, our drawings usually specify 50mm minimum cover of concrete anywhere near rebar. Our mesh is usually 100mm squares, so keeping to this makes it easy to figure out where the mesh is if the concrete needs to be drilled at a later date. We also use galvanised steel wire, because the mesh is usually only as strong as the wire that's tying it, but then again, we use 10-12mm rebar which can snap thinner wire.
Nice work as always Rodger, you ever thought about using screw piles? they are very quick and easy to get dead level, no digging, no concrete , no back ache and you can get the whole foundation done in a day and a half. An added bonus is you don't reduce the garden to a swamp if the weather is a bit sh*tty. ATB from J and H Builders
@@thedeathcake We hire the driver from the supply company, it's usually about one fifty a day, but you can wind them in by hand if you have the room and time.
Indeed, concrete bases do have their place but we'd be in and out in about 3 hours for a building this size with our screw piles. Nice and clean site like you said. As a peddler of screw piles though I am biased ha!
Very helpful. I've got an old wooden building on a good concrete base 21' x 7' and want to extend it to 21' x 11' - I built a log cabin 2 years ago. 24' x 12' . I paid for a concrete base and a mains drain across under the garden. I built the log cabin myself and installed a kitchen and bathroom in it too and did all the plumbing. Only other thing I didn't do myself was the electrics. It's now a very popular holiday let hence why I want to build a second one. I've been waiting for 2 years to get permission on appeal to remove a TPO tree which is in the way. (on the fastrack process!!!) I won that last month. Roger, Don't listen to the Neg heads. Your channel is very helpful.
Excellent 👍 with the exception of the polythene between the hardcore and concrete , I did my shed base in exactly the same way. Makes me feel like a pro 😁 Excellent as always guys 👍👍
My base wasweed barrier, 100mm MOT type 1 compacted every 50mm, plastic DPM, 100mm concrete, DPM, 60mm PIR, reinforced mesh, 60mm concrete over and around the PIR. I then built belly flat concrete block walls on one side and eitehr side of the french doors. The other two walls were garden s walls 300mm thick. Left a small cavity and then built a timber frame inside. Had a concrete lintel and then had a warm roof on top with 90mm insulation. Definately over engineered but should last.
Love these little videos Roger! I’m doing a slightly beefed up one of these in GU22, for sound proof studio, but with insulation under the slab / below grade…do come a film if you like, always fun!
You can get proper concrete spacer "Mars" bars from the stockist. These are sand/cement bars that can be easily snapped to length by hand to space the mesh away from the polythene. The advantages of these is that you not only no longer need any hard core, which can make weaknesses in the concrete underside of the mesh where it may be too thin, but it also makes it easy to keep the mesh flat and level so that you get your 50mm depth from top-of-concrete even. They're not expensive at all and can be wire-tied into the mesh very quickly and easily. Once we started using them, we were so impressed that they've become practically mandatory on our site now.
How do you work out the volume of materials needed for the base concrete? For my base I need approx 1.5cubic m, but I’ve no clue how much material I need. Thanks
Roger doing a shed for my boy, who is a power lifter. For a deadlift area 2 mts x 2 mts to take 500kg in this area. What base build up would you suggest.
The reinforcement is the key. That will maintain the flatness no matter what. If the ground moves a bit, the slab will remain flat. Worst case, it might go out of level a bit after a few decades.
It's key, but it has it's limits. As you add weight or have washout of supporting soil/subsoil and gravel/rock you need more thickness and reinforcing to avoid cracking.
Safe time and money... Go for a cheap monoblock pavers over sub base and then sharp sand... Then there is no buying expensive concrete or mixer work.. per M2 crappy pavers are much cheaper than concrete... Definitely stable enough for a shed, garden room etc...
We are building a 3x4 m wood frame summer house, I’ve heard and read it needs to be 1 meter from the border, your build looks close, what are the eves here?
Where is this 2.5m limit measured from if you're building on a sloping ground? We have a garage at the back of our garden and it's 2.4m tall from the access road level going behind it. But the garden is sloping down towards the house so from the ground level at the house end it's taller...
Great T-shirt Rog - we have warning signs for all our bedrooms & bathroom doors - Danger of Death, Trip Hazard, Risk of high noise levels & Biological Hazard ! No mention of membrane, landscape grids and gravel, do you consider this insufficient for a garden structure ? I used a hybrid system laying a membrane, then laying concrete blocks around the perimeter and a few internal pads then infilling with hardcore before blinding with a weak dry mortar mix.
Shouldn't the base be same level as existing ground? It's 2.5 height of overall building not the back when within 3m from boundary. Have the regulations changed?
When you have tree roots near the building the building control want you to go down two metres. This is a lightweight structure but if the ground moves you have problems.
What does that have to do with anything? Is information something you keep in the fridge until the use by date expires. Do you even know what 'shill' means?
Oh yes we should have just slung the garden room down on the mud and two years later the doors don't close like they used to. The way we work is to avoid call-backs which is best done by over-engineering.
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I love how we see the concrete being mixed on site, and the first barrow load being tipped: next scene; all the concrete's been poured and we're working it around. Easy (!).
Indeed it feels like half the video is missing... 😅
Definitely not over engineered. I installed a similar base for a garden building from a well known brand. If the base is not SPOT ON and you have issues they’re known for wriggling out of the guarantee… you can’t just sling it onto a few paving stones. 😊
Congrats mixing your own on a slab that big ! Hard work that 🧱👍🏽
It's not rained in 2 months! You didn't film in the UK this summer 2024 then! 🙂
I didnt know you guys in uk have summer starting earlier than rest of us in europe, oh youre all so special 😁
@@flaviokonti5522we have loads of benefits since leaving the eu 🤗
yeah more like 2022
@@flaviokonti5522you could’ve finished that comment after the word ‘summer’
flaviokon yes we are 'special'
Oh yeah, we all need an Irritant tee-shirt. Great educational visual. 😊
I got lucky, I had to pour about that much concrete this year and was planning to do by hand but the next door neighbour had builders round so I chatted them up to use the mixer for the weekend, had it knocked out in 3 hours, happy days!
To be honest, the first base I built for my small shed was such a ballache, as I hand mixed all the concrete, that the next time I just bought a load of breeze blocks from wickes and put my other shed on that, jobs a goodun, and so much easier
Hi Roger. One thing you didn’t mention, but was shown is keeping the steel reinforcement back about 30mm from the face of the base concrete. Your man on site cut the mesh bars at about that distance short of the edge. That way the alkaline cement in the concrete protects the steel from rust/oxidisation when exposed to rain and oxygen and the potential for the rusting steel to expand and break out. I have seen A lot (and repaired some) concrete staircases and balconies where there wasn’t enough cover to the reinforcement steels and chunks of concrete can delaminate/“blow off” as the steel rusts and expands. Obviously more dangerous at height and in suspended concrete. Just a bit of good practice I noticed in your video.
We follow a similar rule but because we work in industrial, our drawings usually specify 50mm minimum cover of concrete anywhere near rebar.
Our mesh is usually 100mm squares, so keeping to this makes it easy to figure out where the mesh is if the concrete needs to be drilled at a later date.
We also use galvanised steel wire, because the mesh is usually only as strong as the wire that's tying it, but then again, we use 10-12mm rebar which can snap thinner wire.
Nice work as always Rodger, you ever thought about using screw piles? they are very quick and easy to get dead level, no digging, no concrete , no back ache and you can get the whole foundation done in a day and a half. An added bonus is you don't reduce the garden to a swamp if the weather is a bit sh*tty. ATB from J and H Builders
Do you need specialist equipment to put them in?
@@thedeathcake We hire the driver from the supply company, it's usually about one fifty a day, but you can wind them in by hand if you have the room and time.
Indeed, concrete bases do have their place but we'd be in and out in about 3 hours for a building this size with our screw piles. Nice and clean site like you said. As a peddler of screw piles though I am biased ha!
Very helpful. I've got an old wooden building on a good concrete base 21' x 7' and want to extend it to 21' x 11' - I built a log cabin 2 years ago. 24' x 12' . I paid for a concrete base and a mains drain across under the garden. I built the log cabin myself and installed a kitchen and bathroom in it too and did all the plumbing. Only other thing I didn't do myself was the electrics. It's now a very popular holiday let hence why I want to build a second one. I've been waiting for 2 years to get permission on appeal to remove a TPO tree which is in the way. (on the fastrack process!!!) I won that last month. Roger, Don't listen to the Neg heads. Your channel is very helpful.
Excellent 👍 with the exception of the polythene between the hardcore and concrete , I did my shed base in exactly the same way. Makes me feel like a pro 😁 Excellent as always guys 👍👍
My base wasweed barrier, 100mm MOT type 1 compacted every 50mm, plastic DPM, 100mm concrete, DPM, 60mm PIR, reinforced mesh, 60mm concrete over and around the PIR.
I then built belly flat concrete block walls on one side and eitehr side of the french doors. The other two walls were garden s walls 300mm thick. Left a small cavity and then built a timber frame inside. Had a concrete lintel and then had a warm roof on top with 90mm insulation. Definately over engineered but should last.
Rodgers been smoking the good auld whacky backy. Its been pishing it down for months with only a week a dry weather here!
This was filmed last year
Love these little videos Roger! I’m doing a slightly beefed up one of these in GU22, for sound proof studio, but with insulation under the slab / below grade…do come a film if you like, always fun!
Love the T shirt.
You can get proper concrete spacer "Mars" bars from the stockist. These are sand/cement bars that can be easily snapped to length by hand to space the mesh away from the polythene.
The advantages of these is that you not only no longer need any hard core, which can make weaknesses in the concrete underside of the mesh where it may be too thin, but it also makes it easy to keep the mesh flat and level so that you get your 50mm depth from top-of-concrete even. They're not expensive at all and can be wire-tied into the mesh very quickly and easily.
Once we started using them, we were so impressed that they've become practically mandatory on our site now.
great tip thanks. I know about the chairs but not the Mars bars.
How do you work out the volume of materials needed for the base concrete? For my base I need approx 1.5cubic m, but I’ve no clue how much material I need. Thanks
great shirt Rog
So weird I’m starting this project next week😂 great timing thanks pal!
Great project lads. Well done.
Good shirt. I'd need it to say "Caustic", it's nice giving a heads up, right?
Roger doing a shed for my boy, who is a power lifter. For a deadlift area 2 mts x 2 mts to take 500kg in this area. What base build up would you suggest.
You know it's summer or almost summer, when a lot of these DIY channels are building sheds.
The reinforcement is the key. That will maintain the flatness no matter what. If the ground moves a bit, the slab will remain flat. Worst case, it might go out of level a bit after a few decades.
It's key, but it has it's limits. As you add weight or have washout of supporting soil/subsoil and gravel/rock you need more thickness and reinforcing to avoid cracking.
New fangled Fiber Glass Rebar any good ?
Skillbuilder using content filmed last year… 😮 Who else thought Roger was defying the natural aging process?! 😅
Stupid question: the wooden planks for the concrete formers and concrete rebat mesh; are these specific items you can buy from one merchant?
If you build a brick skin around a single brick building how deep would the foundation need to be.. It would not be load bearing.
What's your thoughts on the plastic grid shed bases?
Where does the heat pump go? 😉
Don’t want them they don’t work
Just a quick question,couldn’t water in theory penetrate the upstand of the slab and track into the building ?
No there is a membrane and it is easy enough to divert water away
@@SkillBuilder i know there is a membrane,I’m on about the front face of the concrete upstand that isn’t waterproof is it ?
best of hardcore 💪🏼😂
A fantastic base, but just a bit over engineered for a potting shed. More of a garage floor.
cant see the point of the membrane as it wouldnt stop tree roots thistles ,couch grass or dock or any rhizome plant ,the concrete might
He explains the purpose of the membrane.
Safe time and money... Go for a cheap monoblock pavers over sub base and then sharp sand... Then there is no buying expensive concrete or mixer work.. per M2 crappy pavers are much cheaper than concrete... Definitely stable enough for a shed, garden room etc...
We are building a 3x4 m wood frame summer house, I’ve heard and read it needs to be 1 meter from the border, your build looks close, what are the eves here?
It is all to do with the height at the boundary. This one complies in being under 3 metres at the low end.
Hi - re: height, you mention 'a maximum of 2.5m at the boundary' (3:29) - does that mean it can be higher away from the boundary? Thx.
I think he means relative to the ground level at the boundary, but I could be wrong
If more than 2m from the property boundary, it can be a maximum overall height of 4m, max height of 2.5m at the eaves.
Look on the government planning portal, don't rely on advice given on here
I used my 15' swimming pool as a waterproof (ish) base, do rightly.
You can go higher than 2.
5m at the boundary with planning and a non flammable build right?
Quick question please can I insulate the slab and can I double block on top for the walls with insulation keep it at 2.4m in hight??
I have. Just build it like a house.
Would using slabs instead of the concrete work well?
yes it is often done like that but you need a good base for the slabs
👍👍👍. Thanks
The missus wants to get me one of those t-shirts. The penny didn't drop immediately 😮
Where is this 2.5m limit measured from if you're building on a sloping ground? We have a garage at the back of our garden and it's 2.4m tall from the access road level going behind it. But the garden is sloping down towards the house so from the ground level at the house end it's taller...
From the highest adjacent area, you cannot build up the level to cheat though!
Great T-shirt Rog - we have warning signs for all our bedrooms & bathroom doors - Danger of Death, Trip Hazard, Risk of high noise levels & Biological Hazard !
No mention of membrane, landscape grids and gravel, do you consider this insufficient for a garden structure ? I used a hybrid system laying a membrane, then laying concrete blocks around the perimeter and a few internal pads then infilling with hardcore before blinding with a weak dry mortar mix.
I just used some flag stones did the job for a base
Didn't rain for two months? In the UK?
So, I should be preparing for the end of the world?
Shouldn't the base be same level as existing ground? It's 2.5 height of overall building not the back when within 3m from boundary. Have the regulations changed?
Higher than ground level to prevent water ingress beneath the shed.
Roger is such a cool mf. How does he look so good at his age. So funny and charismatic. I'm married but I might have a man crush.
He only drinks Prime..
He’s only 35.
How old is he 70 ?
Ground screws
That is a mattock not an adze!
yes
When your foundation costs more than the building.
The BBC Radio 2 plumber!
Roger uploaded a video he didn't film last week !!!!.....oh no, best call the RUclips police.
Some people ! smh
Jamie
It is amazing what gets under some people's skin.
Didn't rain in two months?!!!!
Classy Box just dumped on it. Not Art Deco , Not Leonado Da Vinci, Not even Ikea...a fkn giant Green Box . L...O...L ..
What would you have preferred to see? Anyway, as Meghan sang, it's all about the base!
Way way way over the top 🤦♂️
When you have tree roots near the building the building control want you to go down two metres. This is a lightweight structure but if the ground moves you have problems.
@Jut123: not if you think about it
You might as well change the channel name to "shill builder" at this point. This video is years old .
What does that have to do with anything? Is information something you keep in the fridge until the use by date expires.
Do you even know what 'shill' means?
@SamSam-ny6gt: has time altered reality?
A bit over engineered
Oh yes we should have just slung the garden room down on the mud and two years later the doors don't close like they used to.
The way we work is to avoid call-backs which is best done by over-engineering.
If you actually knew what you were doing you would have put a wooden base down and not destroyed the trees roots !!!
He talks about that in the video!