This was spot on. I had been having issues for about two months where the alarm would go off and all the dash lights would flash on a 2016 Honda Pilot Touring. I opened up the module as shown in the video and sure enough the coverage on the board was missing. I cleaned it with an Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol and put a drop of glue to cover the exposed IC. It's been 3 weeks now and everything is working beautifully. Thanks so much for posting this.
2017 Honda Pilot. Last weekend, in the driveway it started with the horn honking. Took several minutes before I realized it was the Pilot. With the crackling going on behind the dash, I thought the dang thing was shorting out. Immediately disconnected the battery and we took it to Honda. Thankfully, I found this video before they touched anything and picked the car back up on Monday and today took it all apart (for 2017 owners, the vent does not have to come off). The absolute worst part of this was pulling the module out of the plastic housing. My housing looks like a raccoon chewed it now, but I was able to clean up that spot on the board and seal it with super glue. Hopefully that does it. We are talking about trading this thing in since it's been nothing but issues (TSB on the fuel injectors already, lights coming on the dash randomly and nothing being wrong). Thank you for this great video!
I thank you sir, very much! You must be an angle to bring kindness and help to this world. Our car is 2017 RDX. It started the same symptoms last year twice after we moved down to Florida, then it disappeared. The symptoms appeared again 2 days ago when the car was park under the sun in 90+ degrees. The intermittent dashboard light flash and horn came on and off even in the garage. After seeing your video in RUclips, I decided to give a try. Today I spent 3 hours to remove the compartment and the controller underneath, but found out that's the controller for steering. Finally I found out the Keyless Access Module in 2017 RDX is under the dashboard on the driver's side. It's easy to locate and remove. If I knew it's located on the driver side, I would have fixed it in about 30 minutes. After following your instruction, the issue was resolved! The control board in our car has exact same appearance on that IC chip. Exact missing sealer coverage on the same area of that IC, something grew on the side and the side legs. This is manufacturer's production defect! Honda should be responsible to fix the issue for the consumers! Thanks again for the great video and your kind heart!
Thank you for doing this. This video brings back trauma lol from having my car alarm go off so many times in middle of the night, the flickering/clicking of the dashboard lights… The worst part of all is at the car runs completely normal. Which you think would be a good thing, but in reality keeps the Honda dealership from believing you that there’s something wrong with the car. Only the Honda Odyssey forms, and RUclips videos like this help me press the Honda dealership to fixing the right part. From having the dashboard lights flickering almost daily to after me, forcing them to fix this part to having it, and not having it all in two years, gave me so much satisfaction. I solved the issue that the Honda techs couldn’t.
Regina G's video is awesome. However, Acura should recall for this issue. But they didn't. I called their customer relationship. They refused to do anything since this has not been recalled. We should join our force and sue Acura and let Acura recall for such common failure. For anyone who want to sue Acura, please reply with your car model and year.
Thank you, thank you! You've just saved me a major headache! These units are on backorder and I was about to purchase a used part which would have likely had the same issue. I will be taking my control module out and cleaning it myself! Temps are below freezing here now so I will be sure to let my Pilot warm up real good before attempting to dismantle the dash. Thank you! UPDATE: I performed the fix and it worked perfectly. Hardest part was getting the circut board out of the casing. Could see a small area that wasnt sealed all the way. Carefully cleaned with rubbing alcohol and sealed with super glue. 2019 Honda Pilot works fine now! Took less than an hour.
Just did this to my daughters 2017 pilot which has been to the dealer multiple times for this issue. It was doing the clicking, lights on/off and alarm had been going off randomly. After reinstalling all seems good and no issues so far! Thank you for this video. Dealer had replaced the keyless access control unit last summer but it must have been defective also as it looks like the factory applied sealant was not covering the chip you reference fully. Cleaning it and applying the super glue to seal stopped the short and hoping it stays that way. So mad at Honda that they seem to be ignoring this issue so many are having with these vehicles.
Had this problem with my wife's 2020 Passport today. Came across your video and performed the repair. Took about 45 minutes all together, being careful removing the interior plastics. Dealership wanted $180 just for diagnostics. Thank you very much!
Fantastic! I think this is the first one I have heard of that this issue also exists in the 2020 Passport. It really is no surprise. Do you mind sharing where the Smart Power Control Unit is located in the 2020 Passport?
Thank you very much for taking the time to show us how to fix this crazy issue without paying $$$ to the stealership. I followed your video step by step and applied a polish top coat to cover that spot. Hopefully, the problem will be fixed.
EXCELLET video! The most worrisome issues with trim is breaking the clips. Showing the location and orientation of them makes all the difference in the world for removal without breaking them. IDK if you can but add "no start key fob" or "random alarm" or something like that to the description as that what started this fiasco for me. Thanks again.
As I posted on the other video, thank you and you should be knighted for your service to the Honda/Acura community! To get the circuit board out of the case, we took plastic drinking straws and folded them. Then we pried the tab back with a screwdriver and jammed the pointy, folded end of the straw into the gap to hold the tab back. After doing this on all four tabs, a little prying with the screwdriver made it pop right out.
Wish I could give you a hug. Had no idea what was wrong with my 2016 Honda Odyssey until I happened to find your video. From several different forums I had read I was preparing for the worst, at least financially, which was something my family cannot afford at this time. Your video was spot on in diagnosing my issue, and repaired it myself with only being setback the cost of a new bottle of superglue. BTW, on my Oddysey this module is located on the driver’s side underneath the dash up high almost behind the steering column. It can be removed without taking out the dash board by removing the lone screw holing the bracket in place. Thank you very, very much for your video!!!
Thank you for sharing. I tried this on Acura TLX 2017 model and so far I don’t this issue anymore. For anyone who is trying this on Acura TLX, control unit located above glove box.
Did this fix to my 2018 Ridgeline, it worked perfectly. Have been driving the truck every day for two weeks now with no issues.The hardest part was getting the circuitboard out of it's plastic housing, A couple of extra hands helped a lot. I used the zoom on my phone and still really could not see the build up on the board so I cleaned and used a x-acto knife very carefully on that area. Don't forget the super glue. Thanks for these awesome videos!
We just took out our board today. Hoping everything goes well. Thanks for this video.... How did you figure this out? Update: This legitimately fixes the issue. Props to the man who figured this out. Originally we called Honda, and they played dumb. This video saved us money We thank you and cheers to you, thank you.
Wow, lets see. Did my 2018 Ridgeline. It started with random horn alarm, cluster spazing, relays chatter a couple months ago. Replaced 6yr old oem battery to Walmart AGM battery, was good for a month til it spazzed again overnight. Started searching forums n found your vid. Just did your fix, my BCM appeared to have more clearcoat over chip than yours in vid. i think it was covering all legs, but hard to tell. I zoomed cam pic to get better visual. I cleaned as u say anyways to try n put nail polish. Lets hope. I will comment if issue reoccurs. No news is good news. N in 6 months+ if its fixed I owe u beer, dinner, Nobel prize, n name my 3rd born after u. Thanks!
I have very the same problem, it only happen when himidity is high. You probably right, i haven't look up my honda pilot 2017. Thanks for the post, good thing i found this i've been looking for this video just finally found.
I had this exact issue with a 2019 Pilot. The dealer wanted $175 just to diagnose the problem. I was able to find the Smart Power Control Unit with this video and clean the circuit board successfully. Thank you! I did a detailed inspection of the board under a microscope and could not find corrosion, but the chip you highlighted was not fully sealed on my board. I cleaned it with an alcohol swab anyway, then sealed it with superglue. Now it works and all the ghosts have disappeared. Some of the issues I had prior to fixing it was the Alarm going off sporadically, an "Auto Engine Idle Stop System Problem" Alert in the driver's console, and the battery draining. I find it puzzling that Honda has issued a TSB for various cars of this era, excluding the Pilot.
Fantastic! Thank you for sharing all of those details. The dendritic growth is very small but large enough to create a short between those two pins on the IC. I couldn't agree with you more that Honda should take responsibility for all makes (Honda and Acura) and models that have a Smart Power Control Unit.
Thank you so much for making this video. I have been dealing with this issue for months now on my 2017 Ridgeline. The dealer is completely clueless on this issue. I ordered a new BCM 4/6/23 and it is still on backorder, with no anticipated ship date. I just pulled my BCM from the vehicle and was able to get it out of the plastic case (this was the hardest part of the job). Before I go any further, I am going to pick up a magnifying glass, as the parts are so small that I cannot see any problems with the naked eye.
Great detailed instructions. I’ve broken a lot of these little clips over the years on various vehicles. Nice to have a video showing where they all are. I had my wife in the drivers seat pausing the video at each step as we followed along. Anyway, this fixed my alarm and flashing dash problems!
Absolutely fantastic video. Honda should be ashamed of themselves. I had a 2016 Odyssey EX-L and this fixed my issue (for now at least). One note for Odyssey owners in my year is that this control IS NOT under the glove box but under the steering wheel on the driver’s side. There’s a couple of videos out there showing how to get to it but you need to contort your body like an Olympic gymnast if you don’t wanna take any trim off.
@@zacharyshaddix5754 I unfortunately can’t find the video now. I do remember having to remove the tpms module first and found that video here. The unit looks the same as in this video here on the Acura but it’s just a lot harder to get to on the Odyssey. ruclips.net/video/FQkm0VRCKNo/видео.htmlsi=aOcG6CcL10OHM6In
Wow. I’m having this problem right now on a 2017 MDX. It had this issue few times last September, then stopped. Didn’t happen since then until now. That’s a lot of pulling apart, but I might be able to do it. I’m gonna give it a try. Thank you.
I followed the instructions given in this video exactly as shown. All of the parts came apart easily. The module itself was very hard to open, but luckily I happen to have a tech team where I work, and they were able to open it for me. I cleaned the part on the board where he shows in the video, and put everything back together, and I have not had the problem with my car turning on by itself and setting off the alarm since. It was the most frustrating problem I’ve ever had with a car, and this video solved it. Amazing job with this!
Just made this repair on my 2016 Pilot. Seems to be in working order. Trim was a bit different but very similar. Control module was under/behind the glove box as this video shows. @Regina G thank you for making this video.
2017 MDX with 40K miles. Changed remote batteries, charged the main battery and still had problems with headlights and alarm randomly going off in the middle of the night. Both chips were sealed in my unit but i could see the whiskers where you showed. Cleaned and used nail polish to seal.
You are the freaking MAN for posting this! You saved me from having to take my Pilot to the dealer which saved me time and more importantly- money! Thank you thank you thank you! Side note: the most difficult part of all of this was getting the control unit box open. The exact spot that you pointed out was precisely where the problem was. I used a cheap magnifying glass and the zoom on my iPhone to visually see the mess that I needed to clean. Sealed it up with gorilla super glue and popped it back into its case. I feel like a bad ass and it’s all thanks to you. ❤
@@maricelaest.yes! It worked. I have pictures of the little crud that I had to clean off. It was not visible to the naked eye. I had to use a magnifying glass and my phone camera to see it. I felt amazing when it was all done because I saved myself a bunch of money. But yes, it worked. The alarm has not gone off since I fixed it.
Thank You so much! I had the same issue on my 2019 Honda Passport Touring, it would happen as often as once a week. Numerous dead car battery occurrences. For me the occurrences happened more often when the humidity was up. It has been one month so far and no issues.
This worked for me. 2018 Acura TLX. Exact same problem. Flickering in the dash got so bad I nearly couldn't start my car anymore. Was previously unplugging the battery everytime I got out the car. 1. Only main difference from this video and the TLX is there is 1 less bolt and/or 1 less screw before you can pull out the glove box and the panel. 2. Also you need to pry out the silver trim on the left near the shifter but very easy. 3. In addition, I didnt use super glue I order Conformal coating which is what you're supposed to use for electronic boards and I didnt just coat the section he pointed to but I coated the entire right section of the board because it was missing all the coating. You can hold the green board in the light and you'll see the entire right side is missing the coating. 4. Getting the board out of the black box was easily the hardest part. I for sure broke a few of the clips but it still slid back in snug after. What a LEGEND for this video. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Just completed the fix on our 2020 Pilot today. A little bit difference on the interior body panels, compared to the Acura, but took it slowly and was able to pop out all the trim around the glovebox. Once the BCM was out (and I was able to skip the step of removing the BCM bracket by just unclipping and sliding it free), I disconnected the three connectors and had the module in my hand. After the tricky part of pulling the board out of the module housing (you have to be gentle with pulling the plastic over the tabs), it was interesting to look and see exactly the same "miss" for that conformal coating. Same chip was half covered, and even though it was incredibly hard to see, under magnification (with both iPhone mag and reading glass magnifier) did clearly notice where that "dendritic" material was wrapped around the corner. Used a watch-maker small flat-head screwdriver to scrape the material away. Swept it clean with Quetip and alcohol, and applied Krazy Glue with an artist's brush to seal everything up. Reinstalled with the reverse process, connecting back up the BCM and reinstalling the trim... and after the battery re-connect sat in the driver's seat and immediately didn't see the plaguing dash flicker. Started up fine. Re-set the "theft control" and turned off and on several times and all good. Been sitting in my parking space for about 8 hours now and no alarm. Longer test drive tomorrow, but fairly confident this fix did the trick. Can't thank you enough, Regina G, for this help. Would have been hours wasted at the dealer ( or good indie shop, with $$$ flying out the door) to get this figured out. Still vexes me how you figured this out?? Are you an engineer with IC experience? There's no way a "civilian" would have been able to figure this out. But whatever, I bow to you. You have solved a problem that Honda should be grateful to learn from.
Thank you for posting this! I have this issue with ours Acura TLX 2017. It started about 6 month ago and i had to either disconnect the battery or keep it on charger/maintainer during nights as it drains the battery and car cannot start anymore. I will try to follow your instructions, hope that Acura TLX is build similarly to MDX in that regards
btw if you have Acura TLX, the way to remove glove box is a bit different, i found this post that worked on my Acura TLX 2017 ruclips.net/video/ESWM2-cY8tU/видео.html
also I used 8 tooth picks to take PCB out of its plastic casing. One on each side of each of four "tongs" Then use pliers to gently pull the board by the middle connector
and i decided to NOT cover it with a super glue there. Just in case if i did not clean that correctly so i will have another chance of doing that. I think i will just leave this way. If that happen again - i know what to do
Thanks, this seems to have fixed the issue on my 2016 Odyssey. This would have been the second time it was replaced by the dealer and the part is still on backorder. I don't have to worry about a dead battery now and its nice to know what the actual issue is.
Thank you for leaving a comment. That is so awesome! You confirmed exactly what I suspected, that is, a new replacement module still has this same defect. It is much better to repair it properly rather than keep giving Honda thousands of dollars for defective parts.
Thanks for producing two great videos. Based on the number of comments appearing on ody club, piloteer, ridgeline and other forums, many owners have experienced this problem. Looking forward to tackling the repair myself. Dealer's price for the part is $689 CAD, plus labor and taxes. Yikes!
Thanks for sharing that information. The dealer quoted me ~$300 for the labor of replacing and then programing the new module. AND, that cost was after waiting for the back ordered module to come in (estimated to be about 3 months). This meant I was without usage of my vehicle for at least 3 months while I waited of the part to come in. I wasn't doing that! Hence, the making of this video! Let us know how the repair goes, and please share on any forums the fix to this very annoying issue.
Thank you so much for your video, it helps me to understand more about the problem. What you showed on video is exactly happen to my 2018 Acura RDX. I am going to follow your guides later this weekend. Again thanks a lot
I am having same exact issue on my vehicle, acura tlx 2017 43k miles. I will attempt this fix because dealer wants 1000$ and part if on backorder with no ETA... ridiculous. Thank you so much for this video!
Thank you so much for sharing this precious step-by-step tutorial. I will follow the instructions and I will put up an update on how did it go. Thanks again and take care...
Thank you! I just did this after a lot of frustration and looks like it worked. I already ordered a new module so hope it can be returned. Saved me a ton!
hey man! i got a 2016 mdx that has been experiencing these exact problems. i first found ur video around the time u uploaded it and it was very helpful as it solved the problem. the only concern is that it’s began to happen again a few months later which is extremely annoying. my dad and i cleaned that chip thing again but it’s just annoying we have to deal with this problem in the first place. and when we went to the acura dealership they were tryna swindle us for thousands of $
Sorry to hear that problem happened again after only a few months. Do you live in a humid climate? After you have cleaned the area and especially the pins and corner of the chip, did you apply any conformal coating material over that area and especially the chip pins?
2020 Acura ILX is on the driver's side. Needed a few small extensions to get it back on. Tight space be ready to crawl all the way under by the pedals. Opening the box takes some creativity and some broken parts😅. However, it's done and time to wait and hopefully not wake up the neighbors. Nvm the neighbors, I need this nightmare to be over!
@@reginag1874 so far this solved my issue couldn’t see no dirt or anything wrong but still use a q tip with alcohol and wiped everything down and is working as it should 💯💯
I’m having a similar issue with my 2015 Acura. I’m going to check the module. Question is how in the world did you determine this was the issue?? After all with the magnitude of potential issues you found the one that requires a microscope to see?
It was a fun one. 🤣 There are really a lot of great people out there in the inter webs who share little pieces of this and that. I give credit to them in the video description. Hopefully, this video helps foster a community of helping each other and how powerful that is.
Thank you so much for the videos. I walked up to my 2019 RDX (65k miles) unable to open using the key fob. It looked like the car was on and running (headlights/taillights on and dash fully lit ). I had to use the actual key to open the door. Alarm randomly went off that evening and woke up to a dead battery. Think this could be my issue as well?
It very well could be. I have not heard of others unable to use the key fob to unlock their vehicle in this case, so that could be another issue. Nevertheless, your other symptoms sound like what is addressed in the video. Please give us an update on how it goes and turns out.
I have a TLX 3.5 2017 I been having this issues, I disconnect my battery one time and when I put it back I’m not having power to turn the ignition on there not light on my dash , i don’t have any fuse bad I already check everything, my battery is good, I have power in my doors and headlights but I don’t have any power in my ignition I just wondering if this could be the problem too, cause this blinker thing happens to me a lot it’s just go and then comes back after weeks but it always happens
I performed this today on my 2016 Honda pilot. Now my vehicle shuts off immediately after starting up and the green immobilizer key lighter flashes several times
Sorry to hear. Did you get this problem sorted? Maybe module was not reconnected all the way? Did you disconnect the battery beforehand?.. Did you replace with a brand new module or clean microchip on your existing module?.. Just wondering if somehow your keys got deprogrammed?
I have an Acura TLX 2009, my issue is that my car acts like the key is still in the car even if the car is off, I can’t lock the car, I have changed the battery and just today and the car is completely dead, would my car still have the same defeat. It’s older car but seems like it’s having the same issues. Please someone help.
Did you ever get the common Honda problem with multiple display warnings cycling on startup? Not sure if you addressed it in previous videos but as long as it is apart you may want to clean the connection at the negative battery cable to the fender ground. On my Honda the eyelet was clean but the fender side and threads are painted with the body color. I scraped the paint to clean metal and wire brushed what I could on the bolt and hole.
Whatever you use you want to be aware that it should not be conductive, corrosive, or act as a solvent to fiberglass resin or plastic. Personally, I am a little leery of nail polish, that it may have solvents in it (but I don't know for sure). If you want something long-lasting, I would try to go with a hobbyist conformal coating.
My 2017 RDX has a different set of parts in and around the dash-glove compartment. Any video that shows how to access the TPMS control unit without breaking any of the parts?
No reprogramming is required with this fix. Reprogramming is only necessary if you replace the module. This alone is about $250 savings as that is what the dealer quoted me to do the programming.
Thank you for the detailed video. I have a 2018 Acura TLX A-spec with the same issue. Is the Keyless Access Control unit also in the same location behind the glove box in the TLX like the MDX in the video?
This is happening with our 2019 Honda Fit. Just wondering if you have heard of this happening with Fits and is the location of the unit in a different place, possibly behind the speedometer? Can’t find much info anywhere.
It appears from a quick internet search that a 2019 Honda Fit has the same type of Smart Power Control Unit. See www.hondacarpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/honda-control-unit-smart-power-38329t5ea02. I can't tell you exactly, I am not familiar with the Honda Fit, but from the diagram it appears to be located on the driver side. Hope this helps.
Im having this same problem but my Acura RDX is a 2007. Is this module similar since its an older model? I want to know if its similar before I even open up these panels. Plz help
Does your 2007 RDX have a push button start? The Smart Power Control Unit used in 2016 and newer Honda and Acura models is most likely not the same electronics module as in your 2007.
I have a 2016 acura tlx. Video is great, but I can't hardly see what needs cleaned. I can see a chip not fully coated...hoping thats it. I basically cleaned everything with alchohol. About to re coat with super glue but hoping I'm not sealing in that growth as I can't see it. Have camera zoomed all the way in and 2x reading glasses, still nothing? Thanks for video though!
In case you didn't see the Part 1 video (link in this video's description) it has a better and very zoomed in view of the problem and where to clean. It is practically not observable without a microscope. But if you cleaned really well in the area shown, especially along the sides of the IC package, you should be all set. BTW, for the benefit of others, can you explain where the Smart Power Control Unit is located in a 2016 TLX?
There are four little tabs, two on each side. I used a flat head screw driver and slightly pried up the outer case in the area of each tab. It took a few times to work around the four tabs. You don't need to pry real hard it just takes a little bit of patience. It is helpful to have another set of hands to pull the outer case while releasing each tab.
In my case, this problem did drain my car battery because it was causing my headlights to be on all night long. If you are getting the flickering dash lights and/or headlights randomly coming on, then that is an indication that you have the same issue.
If you replace the Smart Power Control Unit you will have to pair your key fobs to the new Control Unit. I have heard of some mechanic shops can do it. You will want to ask to know for certain. But, a dealership can do it.
If you replace the Smart Power Control Unit you will have to pair it to your key fobs. I have heard that some mechanic shops can do it. I'd suggest you ask them first to know for sure. But, a dealership can do it. I think I was quoted about $350 to do it.
wondering why I am able to get the car started by jumping from another car? As if it was the battery. Got the battery tested at Autozone and they said my battery was fine. Reinstalled the battery and the same flickering occurred. Got it started with another jump from another car.
This issue does not prevent the car from starting. What it does do is eventually drain the battery from all of the flickering dash lights, headlights coming on or car alarm randomly going off (when armed / car locked).
Same with the wifes car. This problem will eventually kill the battery. You can remove battery clamp and reset system a few times to get you by until repair can be performed
I have a 2018 RDX. I got the intermittent dashboard lights flickering and it also wouldn’t start. I was indeed told it is the Smart Control Unit and it is on back order
@@jeremycarlson1189 I am not aware of others saying their car would not start. You might have two problems. On the other hand, this fix is so simple you have nothing to lose. I would go for it and hopefully it gets you back up and running. I think if you look through the comments (of this video or the Part 1 video) someone else has reported on fixing a RDX and where to find the Smart Power Control Unit. Let us know how it goes.
@@reginag1874 So I had my RDX unit towed back to my house, and the next day the mechanic told me Acura called them and had 1. It now has a new unit, and works perfectly. I asked to keep the part. I'm annoyed because the mechanic kept telling me that the part was the A314...the part that came out of my car was A214...which you can actually find used online if you are having an issue. I can't even find a pic of what the 314 looks like. Was told it has to do with the package your RDX is (base, advanced, tech). So i have the bad part, and I cannot for the life of me get those 4 tabs open to take the computer board out. What did you use? just a screw driver? EDIT: NM...I got. pain in the butt.
@@jeremycarlson1189 Great. Thanks for the update. Glad you got it open. I would be interested in some pics of what you find. For others that may read this...there are four little tabs, two on each side. I used a flat head screw driver and slightly pried up the outer case in the area of each tab. It took a few times to work around the four tabs. You don't need to pry real hard it just takes a little bit of patience. It is helpful to have another set of hands to pull the outer case while releasing each tab.
@@reginag1874 Yes, I used a flat head, very tricky though. So after opening it up, I used a 35x magnifying glass and looked at that specific chip. I did NOT have the corrosion like some of the pics people uploaded, nor the one you show. I don't think cleaning it in my case would have done anything, nor can I say it would be the same chip causing my issue. Mechanic said that the signal got to the module, but the module itself was not sending that signal out, but that was intermittently, which would indicate that the module was not completely toasted, but completely unreliable. Still, thank you very much for these videos. I think they will help a LOT of people as this is a common issue for the RDX for specific years (2016-2018).
Yes, there appears to be a similar module in a 2017 TLX. For example, see the following link (item 14) - www.acurapartsnow.com/oem-parts/acura-control-unit-smart-power-38320tz3a13?c=bT0xJmw9NCZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3Rz.
@@Afgmas Hi. I appreciate your comments. Can you tell us how it went. Where is the module located in your 2017 TLX and how did you access it? Is it similar to the MDX, like I show in the video? There are some others following this video with a TLX and are seeking more information to make this repair. Thanks!
@@reginag1874 hi! The fix worked btw. I am sorry for not writing comment sooner. Acura tlx 2017: The module is on the passenger side above glove box. You have to take off some trim to get to the module it is screwed in differently to the chassis. But all the same. The module itself is the same. Everything else the same process. Amazing work discovering this you have probably saved people thousands easily.
Hey where are you located i am scared to do it in my own. I am having this problem. I was thinking of getting a diagnostic to see if it really is this because what of it is something else. Can you or anyone help?
According to @dmvmechanic3741(ruclips.net/video/KM-3-k9MPoc/видео.html) On your TLX, the keyless access/TPMS control unit is located on the passenger side. Behind the glovebox. See also previous comments from @Afgmas (4 months ago), another individual who made this repair on their TLX.
I thought the same thing about two years ago. The first time the issue appeared I replaced the battery and thought it was fixed. Some months later is when it reappeared, and then I discovered the real root cause.
This was spot on. I had been having issues for about two months where the alarm would go off and all the dash lights would flash on a 2016 Honda Pilot Touring. I opened up the module as shown in the video and sure enough the coverage on the board was missing. I cleaned it with an Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol and put a drop of glue to cover the exposed IC. It's been 3 weeks now and everything is working beautifully. Thanks so much for posting this.
Fantastic! Thank you for your comments and sharing your experience.
2017 Honda Pilot. Last weekend, in the driveway it started with the horn honking. Took several minutes before I realized it was the Pilot. With the crackling going on behind the dash, I thought the dang thing was shorting out. Immediately disconnected the battery and we took it to Honda. Thankfully, I found this video before they touched anything and picked the car back up on Monday and today took it all apart (for 2017 owners, the vent does not have to come off). The absolute worst part of this was pulling the module out of the plastic housing. My housing looks like a raccoon chewed it now, but I was able to clean up that spot on the board and seal it with super glue. Hopefully that does it. We are talking about trading this thing in since it's been nothing but issues (TSB on the fuel injectors already, lights coming on the dash randomly and nothing being wrong). Thank you for this great video!
I thank you sir, very much! You must be an angle to bring kindness and help to this world. Our car is 2017 RDX. It started the same symptoms last year twice after we moved down to Florida, then it disappeared. The symptoms appeared again 2 days ago when the car was park under the sun in 90+ degrees. The intermittent dashboard light flash and horn came on and off even in the garage. After seeing your video in RUclips, I decided to give a try. Today I spent 3 hours to remove the compartment and the controller underneath, but found out that's the controller for steering. Finally I found out the Keyless Access Module in 2017 RDX is under the dashboard on the driver's side. It's easy to locate and remove. If I knew it's located on the driver side, I would have fixed it in about 30 minutes. After following your instruction, the issue was resolved! The control board in our car has exact same appearance on that IC chip. Exact missing sealer coverage on the same area of that IC, something grew on the side and the side legs. This is manufacturer's production defect! Honda should be responsible to fix the issue for the consumers! Thanks again for the great video and your kind heart!
Thank you for the info! This is our weekend project for our 2017 RDX
Thank you for doing this. This video brings back trauma lol from having my car alarm go off so many times in middle of the night, the flickering/clicking of the dashboard lights… The worst part of all is at the car runs completely normal. Which you think would be a good thing, but in reality keeps the Honda dealership from believing you that there’s something wrong with the car. Only the Honda Odyssey forms, and RUclips videos like this help me press the Honda dealership to fixing the right part. From having the dashboard lights flickering almost daily to after me, forcing them to fix this part to having it, and not having it all in two years, gave me so much satisfaction. I solved the issue that the Honda techs couldn’t.
Regina G's video is awesome. However, Acura should recall for this issue. But they didn't. I called their customer relationship. They refused to do anything since this has not been recalled. We should join our force and sue Acura and let Acura recall for such common failure. For anyone who want to sue Acura, please reply with your car model and year.
Same issue on 2015 Honda Odyssey Touring Elite. How do we start taking the needed steps to make this a recall??
Acura MDX 2016
Same issue Acura TLX 2017. Dealer is asking ~$900 for ordering part and it is not available
@@kranthidhanala
What did you do to fix it?
@@kranthidhanalawhat did you end up doing ? I m about to do attempt this and hopefully it fixes it
Thank you, thank you! You've just saved me a major headache! These units are on backorder and I was about to purchase a used part which would have likely had the same issue. I will be taking my control module out and cleaning it myself! Temps are below freezing here now so I will be sure to let my Pilot warm up real good before attempting to dismantle the dash. Thank you!
UPDATE: I performed the fix and it worked perfectly. Hardest part was getting the circut board out of the casing. Could see a small area that wasnt sealed all the way. Carefully cleaned with rubbing alcohol and sealed with super glue. 2019 Honda Pilot works fine now! Took less than an hour.
That is fantastic! Thank you for your comments and giving us an update on how it went.
I don't know how to thank you enough for this. Literally microscopic problem, you're a damn hero.
Thank you for your comments.
Just did this to my daughters 2017 pilot which has been to the dealer multiple times for this issue. It was doing the clicking, lights on/off and alarm had been going off randomly. After reinstalling all seems good and no issues so far! Thank you for this video. Dealer had replaced the keyless access control unit last summer but it must have been defective also as it looks like the factory applied sealant was not covering the chip you reference fully. Cleaning it and applying the super glue to seal stopped the short and hoping it stays that way. So mad at Honda that they seem to be ignoring this issue so many are having with these vehicles.
Had this problem with my wife's 2020 Passport today. Came across your video and performed the repair. Took about 45 minutes all together, being careful removing the interior plastics. Dealership wanted $180 just for diagnostics. Thank you very much!
Fantastic! I think this is the first one I have heard of that this issue also exists in the 2020 Passport. It really is no surprise. Do you mind sharing where the Smart Power Control Unit is located in the 2020 Passport?
Thank you very much for taking the time to show us how to fix this crazy issue without paying $$$ to the stealership. I followed your video step by step and applied a polish top coat to cover that spot. Hopefully, the problem will be fixed.
Did it work?? I'm desperately trying to fix mine
@@CookwithClarissa yes, it took less than an hour. GL!
@@chucktran5160 Thank you for your comments and helping others know that it worked.
EXCELLET video! The most worrisome issues with trim is breaking the clips. Showing the location and orientation of them makes all the difference in the world for removal without breaking them.
IDK if you can but add "no start key fob" or "random alarm" or something like that to the description as that what started this fiasco for me. Thanks again.
As I posted on the other video, thank you and you should be knighted for your service to the Honda/Acura community! To get the circuit board out of the case, we took plastic drinking straws and folded them. Then we pried the tab back with a screwdriver and jammed the pointy, folded end of the straw into the gap to hold the tab back. After doing this on all four tabs, a little prying with the screwdriver made it pop right out.
That is so great! Thank you for sharing your technique. I like it!
Wish I could give you a hug. Had no idea what was wrong with my 2016 Honda Odyssey until I happened to find your video. From several different forums I had read I was preparing for the worst, at least financially, which was something my family cannot afford at this time.
Your video was spot on in diagnosing my issue, and repaired it myself with only being setback the cost of a new bottle of superglue. BTW, on my Oddysey this module is located on the driver’s side underneath the dash up high almost behind the steering column. It can be removed without taking out the dash board by removing the lone screw holing the bracket in place.
Thank you very, very much for your video!!!
Glad I read this as my 2016 Odyssey has started doing this
@@timothywest1183Yours should be on the driver’s side way up top half hidden by the steering column.
Thank you for sharing. I tried this on Acura TLX 2017 model and so far I don’t this issue anymore.
For anyone who is trying this on Acura TLX, control unit located above glove box.
Did this fix to my 2018 Ridgeline, it worked perfectly. Have been driving the truck every day for two weeks now with no issues.The hardest part was getting the circuitboard out of it's plastic housing,
A couple of extra hands helped a lot. I used the zoom on my phone and still really could not see the build up on the board so I cleaned and used a x-acto knife very carefully on that area. Don't forget the super glue.
Thanks for these awesome videos!
Wonderful! Thank you for adding your comments and experience.
Can you tell me if you had to reprogram the module after you repaired or a reprogramming only necessary if the unit is actually replaced?
Also, I'm wondering if a new replacement module would be defective also? Why is this not on recall since so many folks are having this issue?
@@kukeyuw I did not have to reprogram the module. That is one of the many benefits of this project.
Did this video apply pretty close for your 2018 Ridgeline? I'm dealing with random car alarm going off. Happened twice now.
We just took out our board today. Hoping everything goes well. Thanks for this video.... How did you figure this out?
Update: This legitimately fixes the issue. Props to the man who figured this out. Originally we called Honda, and they played dumb. This video saved us money
We thank you and cheers to you, thank you.
Wow, lets see. Did my 2018 Ridgeline. It started with random horn alarm, cluster spazing, relays chatter a couple months ago. Replaced 6yr old oem battery to Walmart AGM battery, was good for a month til it spazzed again overnight. Started searching forums n found your vid. Just did your fix, my BCM appeared to have more clearcoat over chip than yours in vid. i think it was covering all legs, but hard to tell. I zoomed cam pic to get better visual. I cleaned as u say anyways to try n put nail polish. Lets hope. I will comment if issue reoccurs. No news is good news. N in 6 months+ if its fixed I owe u beer, dinner, Nobel prize, n name my 3rd born after u. Thanks!
AWESOME! Thanks for sharing!
I have very the same problem, it only happen when himidity is high. You probably right, i haven't look up my honda pilot 2017. Thanks for the post, good thing i found this i've been looking for this video just finally found.
Let us know how it went.
I shared this with the NHTSA. This is an amazing display mechanical prowess in this day and age! Thanks again for doing the work and informing us!
I had this exact issue with a 2019 Pilot. The dealer wanted $175 just to diagnose the problem. I was able to find the Smart Power Control Unit with this video and clean the circuit board successfully. Thank you! I did a detailed inspection of the board under a microscope and could not find corrosion, but the chip you highlighted was not fully sealed on my board. I cleaned it with an alcohol swab anyway, then sealed it with superglue. Now it works and all the ghosts have disappeared. Some of the issues I had prior to fixing it was the Alarm going off sporadically, an "Auto Engine Idle Stop System Problem" Alert in the driver's console, and the battery draining. I find it puzzling that Honda has issued a TSB for various cars of this era, excluding the Pilot.
Fantastic! Thank you for sharing all of those details. The dendritic growth is very small but large enough to create a short between those two pins on the IC. I couldn't agree with you more that Honda should take responsibility for all makes (Honda and Acura) and models that have a Smart Power Control Unit.
Having the same problem on my 2016...can't find the growth. I'm going to do what you did and hope for the best?
@@jasonzehnder6510did it work ?
does not deprogram?
Just did everything you said, let’s hope it works. I want to thank you because your video was very helpful!
Thank you so much for making this video. I have been dealing with this issue for months now on my 2017 Ridgeline. The dealer is completely clueless on this issue. I ordered a new BCM 4/6/23 and it is still on backorder, with no anticipated ship date. I just pulled my BCM from the vehicle and was able to get it out of the plastic case (this was the hardest part of the job). Before I go any further, I am going to pick up a magnifying glass, as the parts are so small that I cannot see any problems with the naked eye.
Hope you were able to complete the repair and you are back in business. Appreciate any additional comments.
Great detailed instructions. I’ve broken a lot of these little clips over the years on various vehicles. Nice to have a video showing where they all are. I had my wife in the drivers seat pausing the video at each step as we followed along. Anyway, this fixed my alarm and flashing dash problems!
Thanks for sharing your experience and most importantly that the problem is now resolved! I hope this encourages others that they can fix theirs too.
Absolutely fantastic video. Honda should be ashamed of themselves. I had a 2016 Odyssey EX-L and this fixed my issue (for now at least). One note for Odyssey owners in my year is that this control IS NOT under the glove box but under the steering wheel on the driver’s side. There’s a couple of videos out there showing how to get to it but you need to contort your body like an Olympic gymnast if you don’t wanna take any trim off.
Thanks for sharing where to find the Smart Power Control Unit for your make and model.
Can you share the video?
@@zacharyshaddix5754 I unfortunately can’t find the video now. I do remember having to remove the tpms module first and found that video here. The unit looks the same as in this video here on the Acura but it’s just a lot harder to get to on the Odyssey.
ruclips.net/video/FQkm0VRCKNo/видео.htmlsi=aOcG6CcL10OHM6In
Thank you for these video's. I followed them and all is well now.
Wow. I’m having this problem right now on a 2017 MDX. It had this issue few times last September, then stopped. Didn’t happen since then until now. That’s a lot of pulling apart, but I might be able to do it. I’m gonna give it a try. Thank you.
Thank you for your comments. Please let us all know how it went.
I followed the instructions given in this video exactly as shown. All of the parts came apart easily. The module itself was very hard to open, but luckily I happen to have a tech team where I work, and they were able to open it for me. I cleaned the part on the board where he shows in the video, and put everything back together, and I have not had the problem with my car turning on by itself and setting off the alarm since. It was the most frustrating problem I’ve ever had with a car, and this video solved it. Amazing job with this!
Just made this repair on my 2016 Pilot. Seems to be in working order. Trim was a bit different but very similar. Control module was under/behind the glove box as this video shows. @Regina G thank you for making this video.
About to try this.. how’s the repair working out on your Pilot? I have same year Pilot.
Great video! We fixed it on our 2016 Honda pilot touring. Thank you!❤😊
Thank you for adding a comment.
2017 MDX with 40K miles. Changed remote batteries, charged the main battery and still had problems with headlights and alarm randomly going off in the middle of the night. Both chips were sealed in my unit but i could see the whiskers where you showed. Cleaned and used nail polish to seal.
Did it fix it ?
Yessir! Have not had a problem since.
@@HoanFamilyDid you disconnect the battery and use a memory saver too?
I did not. I usually don't when working on my cars or do things that are connected to air bags.
You are the freaking MAN for posting this! You saved me from having to take my Pilot to the dealer which saved me time and more importantly- money! Thank you thank you thank you!
Side note: the most difficult part of all of this was getting the control unit box open. The exact spot that you pointed out was precisely where the problem was. I used a cheap magnifying glass and the zoom on my iPhone to visually see the mess that I needed to clean. Sealed it up with gorilla super glue and popped it back into its case. I feel like a bad ass and it’s all thanks to you. ❤
Did cleaning it out work? I was about to order a whole new unit.
@@maricelaest.yes! It worked. I have pictures of the little crud that I had to clean off. It was not visible to the naked eye. I had to use a magnifying glass and my phone camera to see it. I felt amazing when it was all done because I saved myself a bunch of money.
But yes, it worked. The alarm has not gone off since I fixed it.
Thank You so much! I had the same issue on my 2019 Honda Passport Touring, it would happen as often as once a week. Numerous dead car battery occurrences. For me the occurrences happened more often when the humidity was up. It has been one month so far and no issues.
Did u apply the super glue? Curious if that is necessary? It just makes me nervous to put that on
@@tiffanyreed3348 yes I did. I think that is next most important thing after cleaning so it doesn't happen again
Just did this on my 2017 tlx, worked great! Thanks!
This worked for me. 2018 Acura TLX. Exact same problem.
Flickering in the dash got so bad I nearly couldn't start my car anymore. Was previously unplugging the battery everytime I got out the car.
1. Only main difference from this video and the TLX is there is 1 less bolt and/or 1 less screw before you can pull out the glove box and the panel.
2. Also you need to pry out the silver trim on the left near the shifter but very easy.
3. In addition, I didnt use super glue I order Conformal coating which is what you're supposed to use for electronic boards and I didnt just coat the section he pointed to but I coated the entire right section of the board because it was missing all the coating.
You can hold the green board in the light and you'll see the entire right side is missing the coating.
4. Getting the board out of the black box was easily the hardest part. I for sure broke a few of the clips but it still slid back in snug after.
What a LEGEND for this video. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Just completed the fix on our 2020 Pilot today. A little bit difference on the interior body panels, compared to the Acura, but took it slowly and was able to pop out all the trim around the glovebox. Once the BCM was out (and I was able to skip the step of removing the BCM bracket by just unclipping and sliding it free), I disconnected the three connectors and had the module in my hand. After the tricky part of pulling the board out of the module housing (you have to be gentle with pulling the plastic over the tabs), it was interesting to look and see exactly the same "miss" for that conformal coating. Same chip was half covered, and even though it was incredibly hard to see, under magnification (with both iPhone mag and reading glass magnifier) did clearly notice where that "dendritic" material was wrapped around the corner. Used a watch-maker small flat-head screwdriver to scrape the material away. Swept it clean with Quetip and alcohol, and applied Krazy Glue with an artist's brush to seal everything up. Reinstalled with the reverse process, connecting back up the BCM and reinstalling the trim... and after the battery re-connect sat in the driver's seat and immediately didn't see the plaguing dash flicker. Started up fine. Re-set the "theft control" and turned off and on several times and all good. Been sitting in my parking space for about 8 hours now and no alarm. Longer test drive tomorrow, but fairly confident this fix did the trick. Can't thank you enough, Regina G, for this help. Would have been hours wasted at the dealer ( or good indie shop, with $$$ flying out the door) to get this figured out. Still vexes me how you figured this out?? Are you an engineer with IC experience? There's no way a "civilian" would have been able to figure this out. But whatever, I bow to you. You have solved a problem that Honda should be grateful to learn from.
Thank you for posting this! I have this issue with ours Acura TLX 2017. It started about 6 month ago and i had to either disconnect the battery or keep it on charger/maintainer during nights as it drains the battery and car cannot start anymore. I will try to follow your instructions, hope that Acura TLX is build similarly to MDX in that regards
btw if you have Acura TLX, the way to remove glove box is a bit different, i found this post that worked on my Acura TLX 2017 ruclips.net/video/ESWM2-cY8tU/видео.html
also I used 8 tooth picks to take PCB out of its plastic casing. One on each side of each of four "tongs" Then use pliers to gently pull the board by the middle connector
and i decided to NOT cover it with a super glue there. Just in case if i did not clean that correctly so i will have another chance of doing that. I think i will just leave this way. If that happen again - i know what to do
Great! Thank you for sharing your experience and tricks for a 2017 TLX!
worked perfect for me! thanks so much for posting this!
So good to hear!
Thanks, this seems to have fixed the issue on my 2016 Odyssey. This would have been the second time it was replaced by the dealer and the part is still on backorder. I don't have to worry about a dead battery now and its nice to know what the actual issue is.
Thank you for leaving a comment. That is so awesome! You confirmed exactly what I suspected, that is, a new replacement module still has this same defect. It is much better to repair it properly rather than keep giving Honda thousands of dollars for defective parts.
Thanks for producing two great videos. Based on the number of comments appearing on ody club, piloteer, ridgeline and other forums, many owners have experienced this problem. Looking forward to tackling the repair myself. Dealer's price for the part is $689 CAD, plus labor and taxes. Yikes!
Thanks for sharing that information. The dealer quoted me ~$300 for the labor of replacing and then programing the new module. AND, that cost was after waiting for the back ordered module to come in (estimated to be about 3 months). This meant I was without usage of my vehicle for at least 3 months while I waited of the part to come in. I wasn't doing that! Hence, the making of this video!
Let us know how the repair goes, and please share on any forums the fix to this very annoying issue.
2017 Mdx Repaired. You are the 👌 👍.
Thank you so much for your video, it helps me to understand more about the problem. What you showed on video is exactly happen to my 2018 Acura RDX. I am going to follow your guides later this weekend. Again thanks a lot
Thanks for the comments. Let us know how it went.
Isn't it deprogrammed when the part is removed?
@@miguelsanmiguel7113did you an answer for your question? Im wondering too. Thanks
Just did this repair on an 2017 Honda Ridgeline and so far works. You’re a genius! How did you figure this out?
hello, is the module located in the same side for the 2017 ridgeline?
@@raulrodriguez7621 yes, passenger side, gotta remove glovebox
I am having same exact issue on my vehicle, acura tlx 2017 43k miles. I will attempt this fix because dealer wants 1000$ and part if on backorder with no ETA... ridiculous. Thank you so much for this video!
Thanks for your comments and would appreciate to know how the repair went.
Hey man. I have the same problem going on in my 2018 tlx. Did every step in this solve the issue? Any other tips? Thanks!
@travisedwardhenderson9998 it was a keyless entry module. It was on backorder without an ETA. I got mad at traded it in for a 23 TLX aspec shawd..
Hi...I also have a TLX with this problem. Did you find the module was in the same location behind the glove box like it is on the MDX in this video?
@@martinelmore5162hey did you attempt repair? Any tips fellow TLX owner
My sisters 2019 HRV EX is doing this. I’m going to try this fix tomorrow. Thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing this precious step-by-step tutorial. I will follow the instructions and I will put up an update on how did it go. Thanks again and take care...
So…how did it go?
So far, it is all good. It has been a little over a month since I repaired it and no more alarm going off.
@@Mikebenson141 all good Mike. No more alarm going off.
Thank you! I just did this after a lot of frustration and looks like it worked. I already ordered a new module so hope it can be returned. Saved me a ton!
hey man! i got a 2016 mdx that has been experiencing these exact problems. i first found ur video around the time u uploaded it and it was very helpful as it solved the problem. the only concern is that it’s began to happen again a few months later which is extremely annoying. my dad and i cleaned that chip thing again but it’s just annoying we have to deal with this problem in the first place. and when we went to the acura dealership they were tryna swindle us for thousands of $
Sorry to hear that problem happened again after only a few months. Do you live in a humid climate? After you have cleaned the area and especially the pins and corner of the chip, did you apply any conformal coating material over that area and especially the chip pins?
Did same repair this week Canada same thing as your video hope I got it clean enough so far so good
Didn't it get deprogrammed?
trying this tomorrow!!! will update!
Let us know how it went.
2020 Acura ILX is on the driver's side. Needed a few small extensions to get it back on. Tight space be ready to crawl all the way under by the pedals. Opening the box takes some creativity and some broken parts😅. However, it's done and time to wait and hopefully not wake up the neighbors. Nvm the neighbors, I need this nightmare to be over!
Excellent step-by-step instructions. Thank you for this DYI guide. How long should someone expect to complete?
I have read from several people that it has taken them about an hour. Let us know how it goes.
my tlx alarm kept going off randomly the past 2 days and today the dash statted flickering will be doing this tomorrow!!
Let us know how it went.
@@reginag1874 so far this solved my issue couldn’t see no dirt or anything wrong but still use a q tip with alcohol and wiped everything down and is working as it should 💯💯
I’m having a similar issue with my 2015 Acura. I’m going to check the module. Question is how in the world did you determine this was the issue?? After all with the magnitude of potential issues you found the one that requires a microscope to see?
It was a fun one. 🤣 There are really a lot of great people out there in the inter webs who share little pieces of this and that. I give credit to them in the video description. Hopefully, this video helps foster a community of helping each other and how powerful that is.
Thank you so much for the videos. I walked up to my 2019 RDX (65k miles) unable to open using the key fob. It looked like the car was on and running (headlights/taillights on and dash fully lit ). I had to use the actual key to open the door. Alarm randomly went off that evening and woke up to a dead battery. Think this could be my issue as well?
It very well could be. I have not heard of others unable to use the key fob to unlock their vehicle in this case, so that could be another issue. Nevertheless, your other symptoms sound like what is addressed in the video. Please give us an update on how it goes and turns out.
Doooooooode! Excellent videos!
I have a TLX 3.5 2017 I been having this issues, I disconnect my battery one time and when I put it back I’m not having power to turn the ignition on there not light on my dash , i don’t have any fuse bad I already check everything, my battery is good, I have power in my doors and headlights but I don’t have any power in my ignition I just wondering if this could be the problem too, cause this blinker thing happens to me a lot it’s just go and then comes back after weeks but it always happens
Not sure about the power to the ignition, but based on everything you described you have nothing to lose to apply this fix.
Thank you so much!!!
I performed this today on my 2016 Honda pilot. Now my vehicle shuts off immediately after starting up and the green immobilizer key lighter flashes several times
Sorry to hear. Did you get this problem sorted? Maybe module was not reconnected all the way? Did you disconnect the battery beforehand?.. Did you replace with a brand new module or clean microchip on your existing module?.. Just wondering if somehow your keys got deprogrammed?
Thank you for this video. Did you use a memory saver when disconnecting the battery, and if so which do you recommend? Thanks!
I have an Acura TLX 2009, my issue is that my car acts like the key is still in the car even if the car is off, I can’t lock the car, I have changed the battery and just today and the car is completely dead, would my car still have the same defeat. It’s older car but seems like it’s having the same issues. Please someone help.
Did you ever get the common Honda problem with multiple display warnings cycling on startup?
Not sure if you addressed it in previous videos but as long as it is apart you may want to clean the connection at the negative battery cable to the fender ground. On my Honda the eyelet was clean but the fender side and threads are painted with the body color. I scraped the paint to clean metal and wire brushed what I could on the bolt and hole.
Awesome video! Thank you so much for posting!
Do you think clear, acrylic finger nail polish would serve as a new protective coating?
Whatever you use you want to be aware that it should not be conductive, corrosive, or act as a solvent to fiberglass resin or plastic. Personally, I am a little leery of nail polish, that it may have solvents in it (but I don't know for sure). If you want something long-lasting, I would try to go with a hobbyist conformal coating.
My 2017 RDX has a different set of parts in and around the dash-glove compartment. Any video that shows how to access the TPMS control unit
without breaking any of the parts?
Can you tell me if you had to reprogram the module after you repaired or a reprogramming only necessary if the unit is actually replaced?
No reprogramming is required with this fix. Reprogramming is only necessary if you replace the module. This alone is about $250 savings as that is what the dealer quoted me to do the programming.
where is that box located on a 2015 Honda odyssey
Thank you for the detailed video. I have a 2018 Acura TLX A-spec with the same issue. Is the Keyless Access Control unit also in the same location behind the glove box in the TLX like the MDX in the video?
Same thing happening to my 2017 TLX
Me too
lol it work for my tlx thank you
Thank you Brother!
This is happening with our 2019 Honda Fit. Just wondering if you have heard of this happening with Fits and is the location of the unit in a different place, possibly behind the speedometer? Can’t find much info anywhere.
It appears from a quick internet search that a 2019 Honda Fit has the same type of Smart Power Control Unit. See www.hondacarpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/honda-control-unit-smart-power-38329t5ea02. I can't tell you exactly, I am not familiar with the Honda Fit, but from the diagram it appears to be located on the driver side. Hope this helps.
Im having this same problem but my Acura RDX is a 2007. Is this module similar since its an older model? I want to know if its similar before I even open up these panels. Plz help
Does your 2007 RDX have a push button start? The Smart Power Control Unit used in 2016 and newer Honda and Acura models is most likely not the same electronics module as in your 2007.
I have a 2016 acura tlx. Video is great, but I can't hardly see what needs cleaned. I can see a chip not fully coated...hoping thats it. I basically cleaned everything with alchohol. About to re coat with super glue but hoping I'm not sealing in that growth as I can't see it. Have camera zoomed all the way in and 2x reading glasses, still nothing?
Thanks for video though!
In case you didn't see the Part 1 video (link in this video's description) it has a better and very zoomed in view of the problem and where to clean. It is practically not observable without a microscope. But if you cleaned really well in the area shown, especially along the sides of the IC package, you should be all set.
BTW, for the benefit of others, can you explain where the Smart Power Control Unit is located in a 2016 TLX?
Did it fix your issue ?
What method did you use to pry the module open? I’m struggling trying to open up the module.
There are four little tabs, two on each side. I used a flat head screw driver and slightly pried up the outer case in the area of each tab. It took a few times to work around the four tabs. You don't need to pry real hard it just takes a little bit of patience. It is helpful to have another set of hands to pull the outer case while releasing each tab.
Could this problem be a cause for parasitic battery drain ? I’m on my 2nd battery in last 5 days ? Please help ?
In my case, this problem did drain my car battery because it was causing my headlights to be on all night long. If you are getting the flickering dash lights and/or headlights randomly coming on, then that is an indication that you have the same issue.
This should be a Honda recall
Is the unit in the same spot in a 2019 RDX?
I ordered a used keyless entry control module. Does it have to be reprogrammed by a dealership.
If you replace the Smart Power Control Unit you will have to pair your key fobs to the new Control Unit. I have heard of some mechanic shops can do it. You will want to ask to know for certain. But, a dealership can do it.
If you replace the Smart Power Control Unit you will have to pair it to your key fobs. I have heard that some mechanic shops can do it. I'd suggest you ask them first to know for sure. But, a dealership can do it. I think I was quoted about $350 to do it.
wondering why I am able to get the car started by jumping from another car? As if it was the battery. Got the battery tested at Autozone and they said my battery was fine. Reinstalled the battery and the same flickering occurred. Got it started with another jump from another car.
This issue does not prevent the car from starting. What it does do is eventually drain the battery from all of the flickering dash lights, headlights coming on or car alarm randomly going off (when armed / car locked).
Same with the wifes car. This problem will eventually kill the battery.
You can remove battery clamp and reset system a few times to get you by until repair can be performed
I have a 2018 RDX. I got the intermittent dashboard lights flickering and it also wouldn’t start. I was indeed told it is the Smart Control Unit and it is on back order
Is this likely the same issue as what is being shown?
@@jeremycarlson1189 I am not aware of others saying their car would not start. You might have two problems. On the other hand, this fix is so simple you have nothing to lose. I would go for it and hopefully it gets you back up and running. I think if you look through the comments (of this video or the Part 1 video) someone else has reported on fixing a RDX and where to find the Smart Power Control Unit. Let us know how it goes.
@@reginag1874 So I had my RDX unit towed back to my house, and the next day the mechanic told me Acura called them and had 1. It now has a new unit, and works perfectly. I asked to keep the part. I'm annoyed because the mechanic kept telling me that the part was the A314...the part that came out of my car was A214...which you can actually find used online if you are having an issue. I can't even find a pic of what the 314 looks like. Was told it has to do with the package your RDX is (base, advanced, tech). So i have the bad part, and I cannot for the life of me get those 4 tabs open to take the computer board out. What did you use? just a screw driver?
EDIT: NM...I got. pain in the butt.
@@jeremycarlson1189 Great. Thanks for the update. Glad you got it open. I would be interested in some pics of what you find. For others that may read this...there are four little tabs, two on each side. I used a flat head screw driver and slightly pried up the outer case in the area of each tab. It took a few times to work around the four tabs. You don't need to pry real hard it just takes a little bit of patience. It is helpful to have another set of hands to pull the outer case while releasing each tab.
@@reginag1874 Yes, I used a flat head, very tricky though. So after opening it up, I used a 35x magnifying glass and looked at that specific chip. I did NOT have the corrosion like some of the pics people uploaded, nor the one you show. I don't think cleaning it in my case would have done anything, nor can I say it would be the same chip causing my issue. Mechanic said that the signal got to the module, but the module itself was not sending that signal out, but that was intermittently, which would indicate that the module was not completely toasted, but completely unreliable. Still, thank you very much for these videos. I think they will help a LOT of people as this is a common issue for the RDX for specific years (2016-2018).
Doesn't it deprogram if I remove the smart power control?
No.
Where is this on a 2013 mdx?
I have the same problem on Odyssey 2016, And I simply can't locate the module! Please help if any body knows where is ti.......?
Try this video to see if it helps you locate and remove the module: ruclips.net/video/kE1RJ2e1W-4/видео.html. Let us know how it goes.
None of my cameras or sonar works on my 2019 mdx help
Is it similar module for tlx? 2017 tlx having same issue..
Yes, there appears to be a similar module in a 2017 TLX. For example, see the following link (item 14) - www.acurapartsnow.com/oem-parts/acura-control-unit-smart-power-38320tz3a13?c=bT0xJmw9NCZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3Rz.
@@reginag1874 thank you for the reply ! I am attempting the fix this week wish me luck!
@@Afgmas Hi. I appreciate your comments. Can you tell us how it went. Where is the module located in your 2017 TLX and how did you access it? Is it similar to the MDX, like I show in the video? There are some others following this video with a TLX and are seeking more information to make this repair. Thanks!
@@reginag1874 hi! The fix worked btw. I am sorry for not writing comment sooner.
Acura tlx 2017:
The module is on the passenger side above glove box. You have to take off some trim to get to the module it is screwed in differently to the chassis. But all the same.
The module itself is the same.
Everything else the same process.
Amazing work discovering this you have probably saved people thousands easily.
Has anyone had this issue with a 2009-14 TL
Hey where are you located i am scared to do it in my own. I am having this problem. I was thinking of getting a diagnostic to see if it really is this because what of it is something else. Can you or anyone help?
What is the year, make and model of your vehicle with the same problem shown in the video?
@@reginag1874 2017 Acura TLX
Exactly the same problem same everything
According to @dmvmechanic3741(ruclips.net/video/KM-3-k9MPoc/видео.html) On your TLX, the keyless access/TPMS control unit is located on the passenger side. Behind the glovebox.
See also previous comments from @Afgmas (4 months ago), another individual who made this repair on their TLX.
@@reginag1874 Thanks a lot 🙏
Had the same issue, it ended up being the battery 😅
I thought the same thing about two years ago. The first time the issue appeared I replaced the battery and thought it was fixed. Some months later is when it reappeared, and then I discovered the real root cause.
@@reginag1874 dang