Poor Quality to Perfect Quality. How to Rescue Brittle Dirty Metal!
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2021
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cbilton.creator-spring.com Often when working with a chunk of precious metal that's been made by melting up lots of old scrap bits together it can be troublesome to mill in to shape.
Melt ups tend to be hard alloy and if you are unlucky very prone to cracking down the corners!
This was a particularly dirty piece of silver that I found in my scrap pot. It was such a big chunk of silver I felt it was worthwhile to try and bring it back to a usable piece of metal.
The technique I show in this video works on all precious metals.
Those working in 9ct and especially rose colour gold definitely need to know about this!
I recommend a soak in acid after every anneal as this helps clean the metal. If the metal is really bad then even gently filing the surface after annealing may be called for!
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Thank You for saying why jewelers don’t want to use your recycled gold. It gets brittle and cracks. It ends up taking more time and money.
Thank you for that video as I have had that trouble now I know what to do.
I havent tried it out yet but I have recently gotten the advice, that if you get metal that just keeps on cracking and doesn't seem "saveable", you can try and give it one last go by rolling it out until its very thin, then ultrasonicing it like crazy, and then melting it back down and giving another go at it.
Oh, interesting!!
I've just started and my tool list only ever keeps growing 😂 thanks for your channel I have picked up tips I haven't come across on other channels. Wish you luck in the future
I literally just melted my first scraps into a bar the other day, and yes going slow even after you have "fixed" it is the best way forward, you never know what's in the middle. And pickle way more than you would normally do, I found it removes a lot more of the contaminants than you think.
Brill vid, glad someone is enjoying the sun.
Yes maybe mix up the acid extra strong!
Ahh awesome! I tought a few times is there anything to do to save that small poor thing, but always end up to melt down the metal and start over. Now I know more and can save time, haha! Thank you!
"Have a look with a loupe" -Diamond Mounter-
Diamond mounter “With my Loupe 🧐”
Anotuer genius tip from a real teacher😁🙏 Thanks Chris!!!
Also you can remelt it and pour in 10 percent sulfuric acid solution . This will eliminate some inpurities and your ingot won't crack then you mill it again. I personaly do it twice to make sure it's clean. :)
That sounds very effective! Not sure if I want the upstairs of my house filled with noxious gas though from all the acid dunking lol
@@DiamondMounter kitchen exhaust fan can do the job. Or doing it outside could be an option :)
Remelt add a bit of borax powder from your flux dish into the molten mix, impurities come to the top you can then either skim it if there's a lot of them or go ahead and pour it
TIG welders are great for this too
Thought about taking up dentistry
coppers a lovely material to work
How about adding some fresh granulate or metal to the scrap when you are melting it? I’ve heard that helps. Not tried it though.
You are the best
Thank you! The secret to getting good is always practicing the basic things being willing to learn more
@@DiamondMounter sir i want to share my work .. that i learned watching your videos
@@DiamondMounter i m from India and our family business is making gold and silver ornaments.. i have little shop.. but i want to produce quality products for my customers... I want to learn more and more... And i need your help
HI Chris, would you happen to know the science behind this process of melting and rolling? Does the heat bring the impurities to the surface? Usually when I re-use scrap metal for my practise pieces, I add a few bits of pure silver shot to bring up the purity level. Obviously, if your method works to purify the scrap piece without having to add silver, it would mean better savings all round. Thanks!
I don't know the science for sure but it seems the over heating of the surface brings the impurities out somehow. Soaking in strong acid then removes them! Adding pure metal might be a good idea! Especially if you plan to have your finished piece assayed
@@DiamondMounter Heating also brings the SILVER to the surface, which is the whole idea behind "reticulation". Reticulation is used to create textures on the metal. It can also be used to pull the silver to the surface to make enamelling work better, because enamelling works better on pure silver than it does on sterling.
DO NOT COLD-FORM CASTINGS.
Nearly fell over when you said that it was a melt-up of old bits, previously melted bits and fresh castings. Castings, whuut?
Unless you've tried to cast hand-work metal yourself and have then melted that metal in (in which case you're doing the casting wrong) you should not mix the two. Casting metal has added silicon to make the metal more fluid when pouring. If you're talking about a white gold casting, this comes with a double whammy. (1) You've got silicon in the mix and (2) it's almost certainly not platinum and palladium that makes the metal white - it's nickel. Nickel is beyond horrible to cold form. 9k white PP on the other hand - a pleasure to roll and draw. 18k white pp - heavenly.
Worked both in manufacturing and retail. We'd cast 3kgs a week of 9k at the factory, and I'd do trade-work (repairs) for chain stores all week at the shop.
My boss at the shop had a similar aversion to using customers' own gold. The thing that really upset me though, is that he wouldn't tell people this. He'd tell them he would, then he'd chuck their stuff into the bucket of stuff to be refined. Meanwhile, I was the one being forced to alloy up a new batch equal in weight to whatever bits of chain and granny's old ring that came in. I really wish he would just explain to people that the metal was contaminated and harder to work with and charge extra for the added pain this brought and time it took. Either that, or explain to them that it would cost less for him to start with fresh gold.
Refining it is dead easy - just mix it with copper until its about 1 karat, then roll paper thin and chuck it into concentrated nitric acid. The copper and silver dissolve, leaving behind a brown powder. This powder is the gold - 99.9% or so. Nitric acid isn't terribly expensive or hard to work with.
Thanks for the videos. They're great stuff. ❤
That reminds me - I need (want) to add a comment to your video about hand-made Japanese needle files.
Chris, can you address the WHY of metal getting crappy? If it is consciously collected (no mixing metals, no solder, no dirt or junk, no filings...) why would it get/be crappy? is it perhaps because it is not melted enough when making an ingot? What are the factors involved from a physics point of view - if you know? Was the piece silver, platinum, or white gold (you mention "cast bits" so I'm guessing it's platinum...), it would be interesting to know the different characteristics of different metals in this situation? Why is "black" an indicator of metal being "horrible"? Isn't it just expected oxidation from heating without flux? Sorry for all the brainy questions, I wasn't a blonde female in my last life (JOKE)! Thanks so much!!
Maybe re melting the same piece of metal over and over will be ok as long as no solder gets mixed in to it. But that never happens because when you need a bigger chuck of metal jewellers usually melt together lots of little bits that will be of no use in the future. I dont know much about the science of wahts going on but the metal going black is usually an indicator of unwanted impurities coming to the surface. Regular soaks in strong mix acid helps a great deal to clean it
i have a question about silver melt-ups, most of the time it goes fine, but very occasionally the metal doesn't flow and pool up but instead looks all crumbly a bit like slag. i've not worked out why this happens yet but its really annoying. this is even with purchased casting grain, so i don't imagine its an impurities issue.
is this something you've encountered? why do you think it might occur?
I have actually had trouble melting down fresh cast metal.
I work with a lots of scrap gold or old jewels to melt it together, sometimes it possible to have cracks due to solder and stuff adding up in the material but most of the time its oke work with it. People are poor no nowadays, can afford to buy new juwellery anymore...
Yes I understand. Gotta do what you gotta do for the customers
WHAT metal?
Do you have any videos with pearls on rings?
No sorry. I will put it on the list of new video ideas!
@@DiamondMounter thank you! Love your videos by the way. They’ve helped me learn so much
How do you avoid getting oxygen into your silver when melting and soldering? Could you make a video on this. I seem to get bubbles after I cast an ingot and sometimes shows up on textured patterns and have to scrap them. Thank you
I think you are experiencing porousity in the metal. Sometimes its only on the surface and can be filed off but not always. It can get really bad causing big holes!
Bubbles can get into molten metal. You may need to pour it in a smooth motion as to not cause turbulence. You can also use steam casting, vacuum casting, or cast in a centrifuge. But people make a lot of ingots from direct pouring as well using cuttleish bone casting and delft clay, so it IS possible to do direct pouring successfully. In lost wax and delft clay make sure you create vents in the wax/clay to make sure the air in the mold has many paths of escape. Also make sure your spruing allows the metal many straight paths to flow to various areas in the casting to prevent the bubbles, and to prevent the metal from solidifying before it gets where you want it to go.
I’ve heard stirring the molten metal with a titanium stick helps get the bubbles out. I can’t definitely say if it works or not though.
Do you have a Instagram handle?
The Mexican method is better, we used something called “ Lejía soap” it works better. Your method is good as well.