Just looked it up. "Starting at 2890 Euro." Honestly think that's kinda fair for the amount of tech they cramped inside. I am just not entirely sure who the target audience of this should be. The mobility of it is a huge plus for sure and also that you are not limited to any width/length of the material.
@@soupisgoodfood42 Those who have no room won't have the money for this pice of equipment! Room = Luxury = Money! Have a guess what taxes you pay for a big house in Europes major cities.
"Router with an aimbot" I like that. I like to think of this as a CNC (it is still computer controlled after all) but you do the gross movements and the computer does the fine motions.
Tom, as a fan of your work and though (currently) a distant, potential purchaser of this product, this is up there as one of your best videos. I genuinely hope Shaper provide you with the resources (cash, money!) to make a series of vids with this fascinating piece of kit. I adore how even with your big brain you include slight errors, and how you would do things different on a second attempt, they are invaluable lessons for us mere mortals, but also shows cutting edge (did you see what I did there) new technology still requires a degree of user effort to achieve the best results, plus it is also part of the fun in learning new methods based on the technology. The more I see someone with the time and inclination in using these type of 'different' products, the more comfortable I feel in attempting to use them myself, with a support base from a community I trust. I know this video took you a while longer than you wanted but I genuinely hope it's the first of a series, the quality and clarity of information you provide is right up there with the best that RUclips channels have to offer. Initially I thought this concept sounded a bit 'out there' but you have calmly and concisely shown what massive potential there is, and with more use the easier it would get. I love the last second too, it's cheeky but on point, and you know what, for the fun and potential you could have using this tool, I'm totally okay with the tape as a consumable. Though still in my infancy, as a maker we love to make things as cheap as we can, but we equally love to support the products and companies that drive this passion (okay I need x amount of tape to complete this job, I'll print it to try and finish today, then I'll order a new reel of tape, but I will order a new reel of tape. I respect a company that allows me that option and I do not want them to go out of business). Bravo Tom, and bravo Shaper, both inspiring and I wish you continued success.
Oh wow, I didn't realise it had it's own X-Y axis movements, I was wondering how you get such a precise shape cut out when you're manually moving the unit. Very cool. I also see the price reflects the technical achievement & quality ;)
The unit has the coords in memory to follow the accurate cut line, referencing the tape patterns. So the software does the tracking not the human. The human path is EVER HARDLY accurate(duh!) 99.99% fail ! The human only follows the rough path within a narrow range in distance and adequate speed, staying close enough to the line of cutting without producing jerky movements, so the software can overcome the lag and keep the cutting head on track, otherwise massive defects will result. It's a follow-me coords fed by the computer with bring-me-in-the-vicinity help from the human. It would be foolish for the human to try to be accurately on-track hoping to be saved when failed, since the human will fail 99.99% of the time. ...just give a hint to the logic. The human with the tape pattern basically removes the 3D printer/cnc like robotic apparatus that takes a lot of room and limits the work size. Makes the tool very portable.
I assume you can mount a small 3d printed liquid coolant dispenser (from a Bowden tube perhaps?) and some wire for stiffening. A small trigger on one of the handles could turn on/off the flow
Hey Tom, a 2mm pass depth for aluminum for a router is fairly aggressive in my experience. Did you try smaller pass depths with the single flute router bit?
Will do in the future - but going so low on depth will make it fairly impractical to cut anything of significant size out of aluminum on the shaper. I'll also try if a different grade of aluminum will improve things.
I would probably go for a even higher Z infeed but definitely not as a full groove with such a instable machine. A trochoidal milling strategy makes a big difference with other wobbly machines like the MPCNC as well. And definitely use a aluminum specifically made for milling (“Automaten Alu”) like EN AW 2007, that helps enormously with smearing.
@@MadeWithLayers you could if it was yours to keep make a bracket to hold the nozzle of a mist sprayer aimed at the cutter so you could keep your hands on the router. You must have some coolant even a drip when cutting aluminum. But man that is a cool tool. Amazing how accurate it cut that paw.
@@carbide1968 I never use any coolant on aluminum. I use coated or polished end mills and do climb milling only. Without rubbing the parts get only hand warm.
i pre-ordered mine about a year or so before it was available in the us. when i got it, i converted it to 220V by switching out the US 110V spindle with a Makita spindle. i somehow love the machine, allthough i am not sure i would buy it again.. it certainly has its advantages in certain places, but it has lots of downsides.. for example the tracking of the tape becomes an issue when you cut large full-sheet projects and sawdust starts to cover your tape. the location tracking is sometimes (maybe due to low light conditions in a badly light garage or so) not too accurate, so you end up with small tracking errors. don't expect to cut pieces that won't require some manual finishing afterwards. also you have to move quite slowly in order to be able to stay within the range of the line you are tracking. if you need lots of copies of a specific piece, it is usually a lot faster to just create a template with the shaper, and then use the jigsaw to rough cut the piece and then a router table with a copy bit to copy your template. so in the end i am very glad i have it as it is sometimes very useful but i am not sure if i'd buy it again if i lost it, now that i know how it behaves in the real live. maybe i am not being fair because i am talking about a us version which is being used in europe with a different (allthough very similar) spindle. my shapeoko (v1) produces a much nicer and more accurate finish though with the same spindle. besides the advantage that you can work on a installed piece of furniture, the other main advantage is the big working area for the given low storage space that is required for the tool, ideal for small workshops! so cutting big pieces out of big sheets of wood would be one of the main reasons to buy the tool imho. for future tests i would recommend you cut some big pieces out of a full sheet of plywood and build something out of it. you may or may not run into some of the issues i have described above.
trust me, all that you can do with a router can be done with this.. The tape limits you very much. You need lots of jigs to get it to work the proper way, otherwise, you will use lots of tape $18 each. During the promo they had built-in tools and were removed during the release. It was only after 2 years they put the finger joints.
I have a piece of aluminium on the metal lathe. What you mention as coolant works as a lubricant more than a coolant. Even with lubricant, and lathe speed of 460 rpm, I can still get cold welding of aluminium on the cutter I am using. I have similar challenges on the milling machine. The speed of the Shaper Origin makes it so much easier to cold weld aluminium chips. Dave.
Project nomination: rack-mount electronic enclosure panel, with holes for standoffs, leds, DB connectors, RJ connectors, USB-C connector, fuse holder, and D-shaped holes for BNC connectors. Engraving a logo or alert symbol would be a nice additional touch.
One tip for holding stock to a surface: don’t use double sided tape, use painter’s tape. Apply to both surfaces and then use superglue to glue them together. It’s strong enough to mill aluminium, but comes off clean and easy.
Thanks for this video. I have a much better understanding of the Shaper Origin now thanks to your demonstrations. Nice tool, bit pricey but very interesting....
I've seen one of these at New York Maker Faire. Quite impressive. Really love how easy it seems to be using them. Very intuitive workflow. Really wish I would have the chance to try one.
Those were some deep passes for cutting aluminum with the Shaper Origin. I have done some pretty big projects out of aluminum in the past and it worked out fine. I also would not use helix mode for that either. I mean, I never really considered helix mode for that purpose either granted. I love my Shaper, it is not magic, and there are plenty of issues with it sometimes, but I have been able to make some amazing things with it. I'll also admit the only aluminum I have used is 6061 with my Shaper.
This machine looks amazing. If I was in to making custom wood work like you did I can see it as a very nice tool to use. The only thing that I would like to see, because I am lazy, is it doing the cutting and "moving" for the most part. I would still move the machine, but it will do it's cut and then tell me to move. No me moving while it is cutting basically. I hope I explained that properly.
Holy crap I never considered the shaper could be used for in situ work like this. I don’t see why it couldn’t, it just never occurred to me. This could be a very useful tool for handymen and makers alike. Now I really want one.
Looks cool, but proprietary consumables are an immediate deal breaker for me regardless of any other features. Not that it's a tool in my price range anyway. Is the tape somehow serialized like inkjet cartridges, or could you make your own and ensure the device cannot distinguish them in any way? Given that they removed features in the past, it seems like they might pull a printer manufacturer trick and make it start rejecting reused or non-first-party tape at a later date if it has some way to tell.
Idiots: "You have to buy shapertape? That is a deal breaker for me!" Me: *Loading rolls of masking tape into my laser engraver, and making "dominoes" on the tape.*
1/8" cutters struggle with aluminum unless you blow out the chips in general with air blast. 1\4" wastes more material, but has more appropriately sized flutes\spirals to evacuate the chips.
I love this product. I do wish they didn't clearly not care about squeezing us on the tape though. There is no good reason to require so much of the stuff on big stuff like 4'x8' sheets; the tracking it's doing is no different than vfx motion tracking, it only needs 3 references at any 1 time, so the references could be spread out alot further, as wide as the field of view of the camera. I'm pretty confident users will find a quick work around.
Two resolutions for this; 1) Use smoother plastic feet or lubricate the target surface so the machine glides more around the workpiece, 2) 3D-printed bottle adapter and bracket, then fill one of those small 6-ounce bottles with lubricant and make it so a spring-tension flange can be used to open on-demand and close automatically the inlet for lubricant to drip into the cutting area.
That is excellent! What an interesting device. A great use of technology. Thank you, Thomas. I think you picked a challenging first project for wood! My only reservation about this tool is concern about how many woodworkers would find it easy to master. However, at the price I found online (about $2500) I imagine the manufacturer can make some profit even on a relatively small number of units. In that case they could then afford to iterate the design toward lower cost (with satisfactory quality, of course), giving a better incentive for new users to try one out and learn how to use it.
Alloy and temper is very important CNC cutting Aluminium. Try 5083 H116. It’s usually plate stock rather than extrusion but it cuts in chips and is resistant to welding onto the bit. Think lubricant rather than cooling. The essential thing is to stop the cut metal binding to the bit. Fantastic video thank you... can you explain XY CNC controlled movement?
Could they update the firmware to start and stop then retract the bit then wait for a move. I would prefer if it had targets placed on the cut and just tell me when to move the router to the next work point. It seems completely unnecessarily complex to have the human movement at the same time as the cutting movement.
The movement is small. It's generally only there to account for the "wobble". If you watch router videos they're not often used for "making parts", more like routing moulding in cupboard doors......
Can you try to just print out some domino shapes onto a sheet of paper (white dots on black shapes on white paper) and try if the router will work with that? I'm not satisfied with the idea that the router would work with that tape only.
Thanks Thomas, great frank review! I assume you have the Euro version 220-240v? May I ask about the trimmer/router part... is that also 220-240v via pass through? I've heard that a US version can simply be used via plug change and the internal universal power supply can handle it... which sounds unlikely.
Note on the aluminum: If that is something like 3003 it is very hard to machine- Much like bubble gum! Give it a test on some 6061 with the single flute and I think you will have much better luck. Probably not great but it may be usable for simple things.
@@someguy2741 Yes it would help but I think the main issue in this case if the material. Assuming it is 3003 or similar... I have used 3003 because it was what I had. It worked with chip load of .025mm and depth of cut at around 1mm and this was with a 4mm single flute end mill . Oh- 15k RPM with a mist coolant to keep it from sticking to the end mill. 6061 can be cut dry more aggressively.... Figured this out after my part looked much like Tom's with molten aluminum erupting form them!
@@joeldriver381 Lol. I am not a machinist but can appreciate the gumminess of aluminum. I only work with cutoffs sold by the local metal dealers. All of that is 6061. It looks like my level of technology and skill would interact badly with 3003. Are there shapes or common items that use gummy aluminum so I can avoid them? I am a structural engineer so "structural shapes" are not unknown to me and are generally good, as well as diamond and checkerplate.
Sorry I'm not good in listening english. I could have missed it. Can you write why this tool do mistake some times? for example when did you do dog trace (big part with extra neckline) or one of the cutouts for the speaker.
You should have first milled the paw and then made the material thinner. Sand in between to remove the splinters, then the adhesive tape also sticks more evenly. Now you had the problem that the cut parts were hanging in the air, then they are on sticky tape. My experience with aluminum milling is the more oil the better the result. I had the same result as you on a solid milling machine without oil.
I think it would be great to see someone who installs the bespoke fitted kitchens and shops etc trying it as they are the ones with the truck full of jigs to complex cuts
Hello Thomas, what if we put this thing on linear rails (X/Y direction), using a 3D printed base. Well, then it is more usable like a CNC router for routing larger parts. Does this make sence?
Interesting that they use the T-Lock system for their case. Only seen it on Festtool tools. Always wanted to find some cheap alternative that uses that system to put everything in and even mod one for outlets and a stereo
@@doomer8348 nope, but I do all sorts of projects in our compagnie, some times requests can be odd ones. I just want to have a excuse. Been wanting a CNC machine, this seam just like a useful option
Here is an idea to do large pocket: Mount the Shaper Origin to a stationary, raised cantilever platform, tape the tracking tape to a large sheet that you want to hog out and move the piece itself, like a pin router would do. Or mount the shaper inverse underneath a table (like a table router)
Yeah, Ive wanted one of these since they first came out. It goes on the, If I had a pile of money and could buy anything list. It definitely has its uses but of course, you can buy a pretty large CNC for the same price.
1) So am i understanding this correctly, in that the Shaper Origin had the option to track wood grain, that was later removed? 2) Does the manufacturer provide old firmware downloads and downgrade instructions, or did they go the Kindle/Android way with DRM and rollback protection? 3) Are the drillbits/endmills universal or proprietary? Did you happen to break any as of yet?
Great video and interesting product. There's something odd about the intro. Like it was done in front of a CGI green screen. Anyone have an idea of what might have caused this?
Would love to have this for my kitchen rebuild. All the plate joints and cuts would be perfect and easy. Too bad it costs almost as much as my new (DIY) kitchen 😔
As a hand tool woodworking hobbyist I feel dirty for wanting this, but... I really want it. Had my eye on it since the first pre-release demos of it. One of the reasons I almost never power up my table saw or router table (or any of the other power tools) is the very fine dust they create (the other is the obnoxious noise). In this video it looked like the dust management was pretty good (although the vacuum's filter is going to determine how effectively it keeps the very fine particles out of the air). Can Tom or anyone who has used this machine comment on the dust management?
Do you have a 120V outlet in your place? I thought they weren't on sale yet in Europe because of the power plugs and the machine is not meant for 240V yet.
very very clever system, unfortunately way too expensive for the average joe. Were i see this being most use is cutting inlays in assembled furniture and floors. If i had one id be puttin inlays in everything everywhere, awesome video 👍
My biggest concern with going with something so software and cloud heavy, is if the company goes under, the "cloud" servers that they host also go under, and depending on how dependent the origin is on the server side of things, you might have a $2500 brick. With normal CNC routers, at least most of them are not at all dependent on specific servers to run, many don't even need internet to be used. I've seen "planned obsolescence" carried out in the software/electrical side of things by cricut already. In the case of the Printrbot simple pro, it touted this awesome web interface backend, printrbot went out of business, backend server was shut down and likely sold off in bankruptcy and now all of those printers don't have the web backend.
fear not. you would not get any more updates, but the shaper works just fine without any internet connection. you can always either desingn on tool or upload your svg's via the usb stick. wifi (and the cloud) are only used for firmware updates of which they publish alot and they really keep adding features.. mine has a new capability almost every time i use it :)
Thomas: Because I’m a cheapskate. Me: you literally just bought a 3,000 router and a hole lot of 3D printers. But good job recycling and helping the earth. Also great job on your videos keep up the good work.
Your channel was the main source of info and inspiration for me to get into 3d printing and making. I hope you keep on making these great videos and your channel just grows and grows. *beers :{J
Hi Thomas, I seem to remember you mentioned it months ago (I've been following you for a couple of years, maybe three) It looks like a nice tool, a little cumbersome to use but it certainly does not force you to study other programs on the PC and this is its great advantage, for aluminum, you have tried to make shallow passes or change the spindle speed to avoid chip fusion ,? it could also be that the aluminum piece is in an alloy that is not suitable for milling. hello and stay healthy
It looks like the problem with the aluminum is going way, way too slow - especially for the RPM. The bigger chips you make, the more heat is carried off by them. And air blast for chip evacuation is extremely helpful as well but it looked like that bit was just pushing the metal around instead of eating into the material to cut a proper chip.
use paraffin wax on the tool to cut aluminum. WD40 also works, but not as well For coolant, you could come up with a small squirter mounted on the tool and pointed at the center, which you could squeeze without taking your hand off the handles.
I think this would be more useful in construction and mobile use. A cnc would be better in most cases, but it is better than NO CNC due to transportation limits (Can't move the part and/or the cnc).
Ich hätte Tausend Ideen für die Maschine. Wäre es möglich wenn ich meine eigene ge"slicer"te Skulptur vorbereite, ales in Vector Graphic und dir das herschicke? Oder ich hätte sehr gerne für ein Workshop day zu besuch gekommen und um die Maschine Mall austesten. Wie groß kann mann etwas ausschneiden? Gibst es Grenzen?
It really only depends on what software you intend to use to create designs - most CAD or 2D vector design tools have quite modest requirements to run well.
"And while I'm getting set up in the studio to try and cut the aluminium, let me use this opportunity to talk about today's sponsor." - I didn't expect it to be about Skillshare at that moment.
The amount of effort you put into loudness/noise control is highly appreciated!
Clever use of dog to keep people watching through the sponsor shoutout. Bravo sir.
Lol, it had the opposite effect on me.
I was definitely watching that part but I was too focused on watching the cute dog
Sponsor dog FTW!
Just looked it up. "Starting at 2890 Euro." Honestly think that's kinda fair for the amount of tech they cramped inside. I am just not entirely sure who the target audience of this should be. The mobility of it is a huge plus for sure and also that you are not limited to any width/length of the material.
Don't forget all the people who don't have room for even a small CNC routing machine.
I can imagine this to be a really nice addition to remote worksites where you don't have the benefit of a full blown carpenter's workshop.
Repair inlays like this is actually a really good use for this machine.
@@soupisgoodfood42 It is the same size as Pocket NC.
@@soupisgoodfood42 Those who have no room won't have the money for this pice of equipment!
Room = Luxury = Money! Have a guess what taxes you pay for a big house in Europes major
cities.
"Router with an aimbot" I like that. I like to think of this as a CNC (it is still computer controlled after all) but you do the gross movements and the computer does the fine motions.
The built in CAD and CAM are definitely a good selling point too
Tom, as a fan of your work and though (currently) a distant, potential purchaser of this product, this is up there as one of your best videos. I genuinely hope Shaper provide you with the resources (cash, money!) to make a series of vids with this fascinating piece of kit.
I adore how even with your big brain you include slight errors, and how you would do things different on a second attempt, they are invaluable lessons for us mere mortals, but also shows cutting edge (did you see what I did there) new technology still requires a degree of user effort to achieve the best results, plus it is also part of the fun in learning new methods based on the technology.
The more I see someone with the time and inclination in using these type of 'different' products, the more comfortable I feel in attempting to use them myself, with a support base from a community I trust. I know this video took you a while longer than you wanted but I genuinely hope it's the first of a series, the quality and clarity of information you provide is right up there with the best that RUclips channels have to offer.
Initially I thought this concept sounded a bit 'out there' but you have calmly and concisely shown what massive potential there is, and with more use the easier it would get. I love the last second too, it's cheeky but on point, and you know what, for the fun and potential you could have using this tool, I'm totally okay with the tape as a consumable. Though still in my infancy, as a maker we love to make things as cheap as we can, but we equally love to support the products and companies that drive this passion (okay I need x amount of tape to complete this job, I'll print it to try and finish today, then I'll order a new reel of tape, but I will order a new reel of tape. I respect a company that allows me that option and I do not want them to go out of business).
Bravo Tom, and bravo Shaper, both inspiring and I wish you continued success.
Also shoutouts to Skill Share, inclusion of pooch while advertising is worth double, that''s a confirmed fact.
Oh wow, I didn't realise it had it's own X-Y axis movements, I was wondering how you get such a precise shape cut out when you're manually moving the unit.
Very cool.
I also see the price reflects the technical achievement & quality ;)
I was thinking the same thing haha
It has auto correction
The unit has the coords in memory to follow the accurate cut line, referencing the tape patterns.
So the software does the tracking not the human. The human path is EVER HARDLY accurate(duh!) 99.99% fail !
The human only follows the rough path within a narrow range in distance and adequate speed, staying close enough to the line of cutting without producing jerky movements, so the software can overcome the lag and keep the cutting head on track, otherwise massive defects will result.
It's a follow-me coords fed by the computer with bring-me-in-the-vicinity help from the human.
It would be foolish for the human to try to be accurately on-track hoping to be saved when failed, since the human will fail 99.99% of the time. ...just give a hint to the logic.
The human with the tape pattern basically removes the 3D printer/cnc like robotic apparatus that takes a lot of room and limits the work size. Makes the tool very portable.
It is a strange feeling, to watch Tom's video without background music. Thats already part of the experience :)
I assume you can mount a small 3d printed liquid coolant dispenser (from a Bowden tube perhaps?) and some wire for stiffening. A small trigger on one of the handles could turn on/off the flow
Hey Tom, a 2mm pass depth for aluminum for a router is fairly aggressive in my experience. Did you try smaller pass depths with the single flute router bit?
Will do in the future - but going so low on depth will make it fairly impractical to cut anything of significant size out of aluminum on the shaper. I'll also try if a different grade of aluminum will improve things.
Thomas Sanladerer I’d try with max .3mm per pass at 600mm/min. For aluminium you don’t want to cut too much or stay in the same place for too long.
I would probably go for a even higher Z infeed but definitely not as a full groove with such a instable machine. A trochoidal milling strategy makes a big difference with other wobbly machines like the MPCNC as well. And definitely use a aluminum specifically made for milling (“Automaten Alu”) like EN AW 2007, that helps enormously with smearing.
@@MadeWithLayers you could if it was yours to keep make a bracket to hold the nozzle of a mist sprayer aimed at the cutter so you could keep your hands on the router. You must have some coolant even a drip when cutting aluminum. But man that is a cool tool. Amazing how accurate it cut that paw.
@@carbide1968 I never use any coolant on aluminum. I use coated or polished end mills and do climb milling only. Without rubbing the parts get only hand warm.
i pre-ordered mine about a year or so before it was available in the us. when i got it, i converted it to 220V by switching out the US 110V spindle with a Makita spindle. i somehow love the machine, allthough i am not sure i would buy it again.. it certainly has its advantages in certain places, but it has lots of downsides.. for example the tracking of the tape becomes an issue when you cut large full-sheet projects and sawdust starts to cover your tape. the location tracking is sometimes (maybe due to low light conditions in a badly light garage or so) not too accurate, so you end up with small tracking errors. don't expect to cut pieces that won't require some manual finishing afterwards. also you have to move quite slowly in order to be able to stay within the range of the line you are tracking. if you need lots of copies of a specific piece, it is usually a lot faster to just create a template with the shaper, and then use the jigsaw to rough cut the piece and then a router table with a copy bit to copy your template. so in the end i am very glad i have it as it is sometimes very useful but i am not sure if i'd buy it again if i lost it, now that i know how it behaves in the real live. maybe i am not being fair because i am talking about a us version which is being used in europe with a different (allthough very similar) spindle. my shapeoko (v1) produces a much nicer and more accurate finish though with the same spindle. besides the advantage that you can work on a installed piece of furniture, the other main advantage is the big working area for the given low storage space that is required for the tool, ideal for small workshops! so cutting big pieces out of big sheets of wood would be one of the main reasons to buy the tool imho. for future tests i would recommend you cut some big pieces out of a full sheet of plywood and build something out of it. you may or may not run into some of the issues i have described above.
I wish I had the money to buy that. This machine is amazing.
trust me, all that you can do with a router can be done with this.. The tape limits you very much. You need lots of jigs to get it to work the proper way, otherwise, you will use lots of tape $18 each. During the promo they had built-in tools and were removed during the release. It was only after 2 years they put the finger joints.
Tom: Tells everyone, that Shaper tape is their only source of long term Profit
Also Tom: Proceeds to load tape into the scanner
I have a piece of aluminium on the metal lathe. What you mention as coolant works as a lubricant more than a coolant. Even with lubricant, and lathe speed of 460 rpm, I can still get cold welding of aluminium on the cutter I am using. I have similar challenges on the milling machine.
The speed of the Shaper Origin makes it so much easier to cold weld aluminium chips.
Dave.
Sneaky Thomas coordinating upload times with Stefan :D
We were not ;-) Total coincidence to make your weekend just a bit more interesting!
@@CNCKitchen Keep up the great work both of you, love your podcast :)
Hust ... Festool Marketingabteilung ... hust...
A router is a so powerful tool but it needs accuracy and experience. this is a wonderful idea and the result is amazing.
Project nomination: rack-mount electronic enclosure panel, with holes for standoffs, leds, DB connectors, RJ connectors, USB-C connector, fuse holder, and D-shaped holes for BNC connectors. Engraving a logo or alert symbol would be a nice additional touch.
One tip for holding stock to a surface: don’t use double sided tape, use painter’s tape. Apply to both surfaces and then use superglue to glue them together. It’s strong enough to mill aluminium, but comes off clean and easy.
Real template tape (not typical double sided) is far easier to use, is clean and far more holding capability, and this safer.
@@pocket5s1 Maybe that's an American thing, I googled it and couldn't find any for sale in Europe.
This is one of the coolest things ive seen in years...
Thanks for this video. I have a much better understanding of the Shaper Origin now thanks to your demonstrations. Nice tool, bit pricey but very interesting....
I've seen one of these at New York Maker Faire. Quite impressive. Really love how easy it seems to be using them. Very intuitive workflow. Really wish I would have the chance to try one.
Those were some deep passes for cutting aluminum with the Shaper Origin. I have done some pretty big projects out of aluminum in the past and it worked out fine. I also would not use helix mode for that either. I mean, I never really considered helix mode for that purpose either granted. I love my Shaper, it is not magic, and there are plenty of issues with it sometimes, but I have been able to make some amazing things with it. I'll also admit the only aluminum I have used is 6061 with my Shaper.
This seems like a great idea. I don't have space for a full sized cnc mill. I'll be looking into this more. Thanks.
This machine looks amazing. If I was in to making custom wood work like you did I can see it as a very nice tool to use. The only thing that I would like to see, because I am lazy, is it doing the cutting and "moving" for the most part. I would still move the machine, but it will do it's cut and then tell me to move. No me moving while it is cutting basically. I hope I explained that properly.
Holy crap I never considered the shaper could be used for in situ work like this. I don’t see why it couldn’t, it just never occurred to me. This could be a very useful tool for handymen and makers alike. Now I really want one.
Looks cool, but proprietary consumables are an immediate deal breaker for me regardless of any other features. Not that it's a tool in my price range anyway.
Is the tape somehow serialized like inkjet cartridges, or could you make your own and ensure the device cannot distinguish them in any way? Given that they removed features in the past, it seems like they might pull a printer manufacturer trick and make it start rejecting reused or non-first-party tape at a later date if it has some way to tell.
Tom, what prevents one from simply scanning the tape and printing it at home using say, standard adhesive paper?
Idiots: "You have to buy shapertape? That is a deal breaker for me!"
Me: *Loading rolls of masking tape into my laser engraver, and making "dominoes" on the tape.*
Maybe you could take up a collection for shaper tape
Me: "just Xerox the sheet of shapertape and use spray glue"
me printing rolls off on my large format vinly printer
Watch China rip off the shaper tape with _even cheaper_ shaper tape.
There is a website that'll allow you to print out sheets with similar patterns
That is an amazing machine! Now I need to crunch the Spousal Acceptance Factor numbers to get one...
1/8" cutters struggle with aluminum unless you blow out the chips in general with air blast. 1\4" wastes more material, but has more appropriately sized flutes\spirals to evacuate the chips.
Awesome tool, great video.
Looking forward to seeing more projects with it.
I love this product.
I do wish they didn't clearly not care about squeezing us on the tape though. There is no good reason to require so much of the stuff on big stuff like 4'x8' sheets; the tracking it's doing is no different than vfx motion tracking, it only needs 3 references at any 1 time, so the references could be spread out alot further, as wide as the field of view of the camera.
I'm pretty confident users will find a quick work around.
Two resolutions for this; 1) Use smoother plastic feet or lubricate the target surface so the machine glides more around the workpiece, 2) 3D-printed bottle adapter and bracket, then fill one of those small 6-ounce bottles with lubricant and make it so a spring-tension flange can be used to open on-demand and close automatically the inlet for lubricant to drip into the cutting area.
That is excellent! What an interesting device. A great use of technology. Thank you, Thomas.
I think you picked a challenging first project for wood!
My only reservation about this tool is concern about how many woodworkers would find it easy to master.
However, at the price I found online (about $2500) I imagine the manufacturer can make some profit even on a relatively small number of units. In that case they could then afford to iterate the design toward lower cost (with satisfactory quality, of course), giving a better incentive for new users to try one out and learn how to use it.
Just recently thought how router is doing. And it looks like it's doing well.
Great video Tom love the dog he appeared to be a bit worried about you like oh man tom is talking to himself again lol
Alloy and temper is very important CNC cutting Aluminium. Try 5083 H116. It’s usually plate stock rather than extrusion but it cuts in chips and is resistant to welding onto the bit. Think lubricant rather than cooling. The essential thing is to stop the cut metal binding to the bit.
Fantastic video thank you... can you explain XY CNC controlled movement?
Could they update the firmware to start and stop then retract the bit then wait for a move. I would prefer if it had targets placed on the cut and just tell me when to move the router to the next work point. It seems completely unnecessarily complex to have the human movement at the same time as the cutting movement.
Good idea, I like.
The movement is small. It's generally only there to account for the "wobble". If you watch router videos they're not often used for "making parts", more like routing moulding in cupboard doors......
You want the shopbot handibot.
Hi Tom, build a pair of speakers, the machine could be useful to cut the holes for the driver, ports and maybe the joins.
Thank you that is genuinely an awesome machine 👍😎👍
Can you change the RPM of this router? Metals require a lower RPM cutting speed. Great vid :)
i would have you expected to make a 3d printed insert xD
great video!
Thought about that, but honestly it would look kinda out of place.
@@MadeWithLayers Silk filament might be an interesting contrast, but yeah, wood looks fantastic, there.
Can you try to just print out some domino shapes onto a sheet of paper (white dots on black shapes on white paper) and try if the router will work with that? I'm not satisfied with the idea that the router would work with that tape only.
Thanks Thomas, great frank review! I assume you have the Euro version 220-240v? May I ask about the trimmer/router part... is that also 220-240v via pass through? I've heard that a US version can simply be used via plug change and the internal universal power supply can handle it... which sounds unlikely.
Note on the aluminum: If that is something like 3003 it is very hard to machine- Much like bubble gum! Give it a test on some 6061 with the single flute and I think you will have much better luck. Probably not great but it may be usable for simple things.
Would a light oil help? Or wiping some transfluid on the cutter like cutting with a die grinder?
@@someguy2741 Yes it would help but I think the main issue in this case if the material. Assuming it is 3003 or similar... I have used 3003 because it was what I had. It worked with chip load of .025mm and depth of cut at around 1mm and this was with a 4mm single flute end mill . Oh- 15k RPM with a mist coolant to keep it from sticking to the end mill. 6061 can be cut dry more aggressively.... Figured this out after my part looked much like Tom's with molten aluminum erupting form them!
@@joeldriver381 Lol. I am not a machinist but can appreciate the gumminess of aluminum. I only work with cutoffs sold by the local metal dealers. All of that is 6061. It looks like my level of technology and skill would interact badly with 3003. Are there shapes or common items that use gummy aluminum so I can avoid them? I am a structural engineer so "structural shapes" are not unknown to me and are generally good, as well as diamond and checkerplate.
Sorry I'm not good in listening english. I could have missed it. Can you write why this tool do mistake some times? for example when did you do dog trace (big part with extra neckline) or one of the cutouts for the speaker.
You should have first milled the paw and then made the material thinner. Sand in between to remove the splinters, then the adhesive tape also sticks more evenly. Now you had the problem that the cut parts were hanging in the air, then they are on sticky tape.
My experience with aluminum milling is the more oil the better the result. I had the same result as you on a solid milling machine without oil.
I think it would be great to see someone who installs the bespoke fitted kitchens and shops etc trying it as they are the ones with the truck full of jigs to complex cuts
Hello Thomas, what if we put this thing on linear rails (X/Y direction), using a 3D printed base. Well, then it is more usable like a CNC router for routing larger parts. Does this make sence?
Interesting that they use the T-Lock system for their case. Only seen it on Festtool tools. Always wanted to find some cheap alternative that uses that system to put everything in and even mod one for outlets and a stereo
Die "Oberfräse" ist einfach fantastisch schön das du sie nach Deutschland bringst :-)
Das nach-Deutschland-bringen macht FESTOOL. Offizieller Start in Deutschland 17. März... Thomas ist hier der Multiplikator (AKA as "impfluenzah") ;-)
F. D. Ja das schon aber ich habe schon vor ca 1 Jahr von der Maschine gehört und finde es gut das Thomas die vorgestellt hat!
You have a set of brass ones using the very table you were trying to fix as a work table. "ooops, uh oh"
congratulations Thomas on the new studio!
I just love this tool! Just waiting for a excuse on a job to buy it!
Are you a carpenter?
@@doomer8348 nope, but I do all sorts of projects in our compagnie, some times requests can be odd ones. I just want to have a excuse. Been wanting a CNC machine, this seam just like a useful option
Here is an idea to do large pocket: Mount the Shaper Origin to a stationary, raised cantilever platform, tape the tracking tape to a large sheet that you want to hog out and move the piece itself, like a pin router would do.
Or mount the shaper inverse underneath a table (like a table router)
Yeah, Ive wanted one of these since they first came out. It goes on the, If I had a pile of money and could buy anything list. It definitely has its uses but of course, you can buy a pretty large CNC for the same price.
Intruiged about how one could adapt ar/vr tracking to this. Thinking of using a steam vr puck and some sort of input.
1) So am i understanding this correctly, in that the Shaper Origin had the option to track wood grain, that was later removed?
2) Does the manufacturer provide old firmware downloads and downgrade instructions, or did they go the Kindle/Android way with DRM and rollback protection?
3) Are the drillbits/endmills universal or proprietary? Did you happen to break any as of yet?
You should build a sled for the router, one like the samurai carpenter makes for flattening slabs. That way you can hover over any spot you want.
I love the shaper origin. It's still a little expensive. I wonder if you can hack a router to do the same thing
So cool. I can't wait for a DIY priced version :)
Great video and interesting product. There's something odd about the intro. Like it was done in front of a CGI green screen. Anyone have an idea of what might have caused this?
Depth of field from the lens aperture.
When Jays 2 cents moved to a studio first time he used the same effect.
It can get off putting IMO.
@@minibigs5259 Oh, everything is in focus. I wouldn't have thought it would make such a difference. Thank you
I thought the same :)
Would love to have this for my kitchen rebuild. All the plate joints and cuts would be perfect and easy. Too bad it costs almost as much as my new (DIY) kitchen 😔
DOG
Thomas Sanladerer cat!
CAD
Ferret!
Cats, CAD. What's the difference?
Would it work to have the vacuum switched to blow on the aluminum? t might give some cooling
If you get a zebra gk420 label printer or similar you can print your own shapertape on to stickyback rolls.
does their software account for the tolerance for the inlay or did you just figure that out ?
As a hand tool woodworking hobbyist I feel dirty for wanting this, but... I really want it. Had my eye on it since the first pre-release demos of it. One of the reasons I almost never power up my table saw or router table (or any of the other power tools) is the very fine dust they create (the other is the obnoxious noise). In this video it looked like the dust management was pretty good (although the vacuum's filter is going to determine how effectively it keeps the very fine particles out of the air). Can Tom or anyone who has used this machine comment on the dust management?
Do you have a 120V outlet in your place? I thought they weren't on sale yet in Europe because of the power plugs and the machine is not meant for 240V yet.
very very clever system, unfortunately way too expensive for the average joe. Were i see this being most use is cutting inlays in assembled furniture and floors. If i had one id be puttin inlays in everything everywhere, awesome video 👍
For the aluminium you definitely want a too big DOC as your slotting.
Usually I use 0.33mm
Thanks Tom, interesting review of an interesting product
What about remaking the dolly’s frame with this machine?
Does it work if we 2D scan that tape and print it on normal A4 paper?
Nevermind, just saw the post-credit :P
Just put on some teflon tape is the surface is too rough for the shaper to glide easily, or use either the shaper plate or shaper workstation
My biggest concern with going with something so software and cloud heavy, is if the company goes under, the "cloud" servers that they host also go under, and depending on how dependent the origin is on the server side of things, you might have a $2500 brick. With normal CNC routers, at least most of them are not at all dependent on specific servers to run, many don't even need internet to be used.
I've seen "planned obsolescence" carried out in the software/electrical side of things by cricut already. In the case of the Printrbot simple pro, it touted this awesome web interface backend, printrbot went out of business, backend server was shut down and likely sold off in bankruptcy and now all of those printers don't have the web backend.
fear not. you would not get any more updates, but the shaper works just fine without any internet connection. you can always either desingn on tool or upload your svg's via the usb stick. wifi (and the cloud) are only used for firmware updates of which they publish alot and they really keep adding features.. mine has a new capability almost every time i use it :)
Really Fear not as Shaper is now part of TTS Tooltechnic Systems the parent company of Festool, so there is nothing to worry about.
oh, damn that's really useful I might buy one
What breed of dog is that??? I have one similar, only different coloring. I have no clue what he is though.
Thomas: Because I’m a cheapskate. Me: you literally just bought a 3,000 router and a hole lot of 3D printers. But good job recycling and helping the earth. Also great job on your videos keep up the good work.
What is that Filaween test-jig made of? @Thomas Sanladerer
Looks like polymer concrete
If you want to cut aluminum try using a 2 flute 1/8 endmill on the lowest speed with aluminum cutting oil.
That's a big bed for a small dog! You could even take a power nap in it, if the dog doesn't mind.
Your channel was the main source of info and inspiration for me to get into 3d printing and making.
I hope you keep on making these great videos and your channel just grows and grows. *beers :{J
Hi Thomas,
I seem to remember you mentioned it months ago (I've been following you for a couple of years, maybe three)
It looks like a nice tool, a little cumbersome to use but it certainly does not force you to study other programs on the PC and this is its great advantage, for aluminum, you have tried to make shallow passes or change the spindle speed to avoid chip fusion ,? it could also be that the aluminum piece is in an alloy that is not suitable for milling. hello and stay healthy
It looks like the problem with the aluminum is going way, way too slow - especially for the RPM. The bigger chips you make, the more heat is carried off by them. And air blast for chip evacuation is extremely helpful as well but it looked like that bit was just pushing the metal around instead of eating into the material to cut a proper chip.
I'd love to see you make or review the ANT PCB Maker/mill you showed off a year or so ago, if you're expanding past 3D Printing this could be cool.
That was so interesting to watch
Well, this one got a better review than the MPCNC. At least he didn't dismantled the machine at the end of the video...
Do you have a source for the 3mm cutters?
use paraffin wax on the tool to cut aluminum. WD40 also works, but not as well
For coolant, you could come up with a small squirter mounted on the tool and pointed at the center, which you could squeeze without taking your hand off the handles.
I think this would be more useful in construction and mobile use. A cnc would be better in most cases, but it is better than NO CNC due to transportation limits (Can't move the part and/or the cnc).
Is there is a halo" as in a weird HDR" around every object in this video or it is just my eyes play some tricks one. Other than that great video.
Ich hätte Tausend Ideen für die Maschine. Wäre es möglich wenn ich meine eigene ge"slicer"te Skulptur vorbereite, ales in Vector Graphic und dir das herschicke? Oder ich hätte sehr gerne für ein Workshop day zu besuch gekommen und um die Maschine Mall austesten. Wie groß kann mann etwas ausschneiden? Gibst es Grenzen?
This might be a good investment for a makerspace looking to add to their capabilities/services.
That is a interesting tool. It’s just that I totally despise any type of woodwork.
What kind of computer would you recommend for someone about to get a Shaper Origin?
It really only depends on what software you intend to use to create designs - most CAD or 2D vector design tools have quite modest requirements to run well.
what happens with the tape supply if/when they go out of business ?
Shaper is now part of TTS Tooltechnic Systems the parent company of Festool, so that is very unlikely to happen.
For cutting an inlay pattern into an engineered timber floor. eg foot prints in a child's bedroom floor
"And while I'm getting set up in the studio to try and cut the aluminium, let me use this opportunity to talk about today's sponsor." - I didn't expect it to be about Skillshare at that moment.
Awww cute puppy
love this machine. wish it was cheaper to purchase