0.23 seconds how simple is this diagram! Why couldn't redarc do this! For days now, I've been trying to wrap my head around the earth for the solar panel! This is the only video I could see how it was done! Bloody bus bar! Good work. Thanks heaps.
Just wanted to personally thank you for this video, must have watched it 25 times as I had a very similar setup going into my Ute toolbox. Done and dusted now and working well after an 8 day trip, thanks!!!
Awesome vid it's been a life saver for when I completed my installation... I had a battery box already soo just brought a smaller alloy box to sit beside it and install everything into that then ran 2x extra cables out to my battery box to another anderson plug to then connect to my battery box. Keep up the amazing vidz bro!!!
Adam, you're content and personal delivery style are very watchable - clear, concise, and easy to understand. No fluff or extraneous commentary - straight to the point. I'm using your content to guide my DIY Redarc BCDC50 setup with two 100a/hr Lithiums in the back of my 2021 BT-50 (D-max). What are your thoughts on the Ground Cable run between Crank and House should be the same length as the Pos? I have a rudimentary understanding of 12v but only enough to get me into trouble. So some consternation for me as you ran your Deck to Chasis and not back to (or equal length) as your Pos. On another segment, have ordered the bonnet struts per your recommendation. Looking forward to the easy lift when fitted. Everyone says it, but keep the content coming - it's fantastic.
Thanks for the feedback Chris 👍 Regarding the equal length, for single battery setups like in the video it's not necessary. Equal length cable is generally recommended however when connecting more than one battery in series or parallel - eg the cable length that runs between the two batteries for positive and negative should be the same length
I love how you just go 100% no holds barred get the best shit and do it perfect. It's like compromise is not a word in your vocabulary. If only I could afford to do the same :D
Great video mate, really professional work! How do you get the cable out of the fuse box while still keeping it sealed up? Drill a small hole and seal with silicone? Thanks in advance 😊
I'd love to see how you wire up the Victron monitor - I basically have the exact same system as you - super helpful as I am currently in the wiring up stage!
That's the way redarc soooo their profile selection, that tells it it's lithium. This will depend on your unit, jump on their website to confirm, they have all the wiring diagrams etc there
Excellent tutorial video ! Thanks I am putting a second battery 135ah lithium in the rear of a 90series Prado to run a fridge , compressor, lights and Solar Panel on roof and second fold up Solar Panel when stationary. Where do I find the parts list you used ? Thanks for all your help 👍 Mike Ward
At 7:13, What's the double sided tape you are using? Maybe I missed it, But, I don't see it in the description Does the Redark heats up a lot? Thank You for this excellent video.
Great video. I am going to build something similar until my canopy and draws arrive. What size is the box you used? How much space is left either side of the box when installed between the wheel arches?
It's not a perfect size, but was the best I could find at the time. I needed something that would fit the bigger 135ah battery and space for the compressor as well (install vid on the channel shows you the constraints). Also one that could fit under the roller shutter and not stick out too far. Will go to a custom box once the liner is pulled and tub raptor lined. With the box over to one side have about 40cm gap, enough to slide my pop top gazebo :)
Hi mate sensational video. The only question I have is in regards to the drainage hole/ bung you pass the cabling through in the tub. Where does the water go through the shutter drainage without having them in place?
Hey mate, short answer is it doesn't. I was planning on replacing the hose but haven't had any leak in so haven't bothered. Just assume it's not going down the drain in the first place
Great thanks so much Adam I just found out how to look in the description lol. On a side note I just fitted the custom off-road bash plates, fantastic product, cheers for that video as well. Cheers Wayne
Great help planning my install, thank you!! CAUTION NOTE I am 80% sure those connector/piggyback fuses have to be installed in the correct orientation to work correctly. In the fuse box 1 side of the fuse rail is connected to a power bus thingy and the other runs to the AC, ciggy lighter etc. The pin on the wired end of the piggyback fuse needs to attach to the AC/ciggy side pin not the powered bus side pin. Your 5 amp fuse will never pop if installed the wrong way. (Good chance I'm wrong; worth noting if I'm not ;)
Hello, i watched you video because I wasn't sure of my installation, and you seems to have the same as me. When my engine shut down, the Li light is blinking, I thought it was an indicator of an issue, no? When I start my engine, the Li, vehicle and stage light are fix (light, no blinking), is the installation correct?
Hey mate happy Monday I’m going to setup a lithium battery in my camp trailer can I run a solar panel just to charge the battery on its own not connected to a alternator
Great video. I notice Redarc says the butt splice on the 6 gauge wire needs to be crimped and soldered, but I don’t see you mentioning that. Is it OK to avoid soldering? That’s the only thing I am not good at so crimping + heat shrink is preferred.
Hey mate, ideally crimp is you mechanical connection, solder your electrical. But of a can of worms this one. IMHO a proper crimp with proper tool then protected with shrink and tube is tried and tested 👍
Hi mate, love the videos. Using them to kit out my 2021 dmax so much appreciated. I also have a 18 foot caravan on order. Was wondering how the alternator copes with the 2 charging systems when you have your caravan on?
Hi mate, great video by the way! How would you go with having the red arc unit in a camper to charge your camper batteries with a car with a smart alternator. Would you have to run ignition wire to properly charge the batteries in camper trailer while driving?
Cheers mate! Storage.. one has recovery gear etc and other has day trip stuff eg small burner, cooking stuff. There's an install vid on the channel if you want to check em out 👍
Don't have to, can run in series to you second battery feed. I run an switch isolator on mine, after main battery, before the bcdc. That way can easily isolate the bcdc and rear battery box. If you check the 12v accessory plate video you'll see what I mean
Hi Adam Quick question in time code 14:42 relating to the micro fuse struggling to get this to fit the fuse box and it is a micro fuse. Appreciate your thoughts.
Not sure if this has been asked already, but could you run both + & - from the car main battery , instead of direct to chassis ( reason I ask is I have +&- 6AWG )
Assuming you only use the bus bar on the fuse box - could you run the negative from AUX battery to the main neg terminal on fuse box, then send all negatives to fuse box bus bar and have one negative cable from fuse box primary neg terminal to chassis earth? Wiring mine up this way tomorrow. Hopefully nothing explodes 😊
Hi, awesome video mate, just wanted to know why you used the connection with the red/white wire? And why didn't you do with the solder/heat shrink connector? Seems you only used 1 of the wires? Cheers, I hope to hear back soon. Once again, awesome, very helpful to everyone out here. Thanks.
Hi, was to get the trigger wire into the box. Is that the one you mean? I didn't solder as I wanted to be able to remove the box. That connector was just one I had, originally intended to use as a spare for something else but ended up redesigning the whole thing anyway (hence the StorMod vids)
Absolutely fantastic tutorial mate straight to the point and clear without the bloatware. Loving your channel its just making me more impatient for mine to arrive haha. Are you going to fix your box to the spare mount points just under the roller cover box?
Thanks mate, sometimes difficult to get the detail vs time right! Yep you can see right at the end of the vid I have m8 eye bolts that I've put in place of the bolts under the roller tub and have a strap either side that holds it in place nicely. Have be offroading twice now like this and it's right solid. Is great with the compressor in it as well!! (That vid likely out this time next week)
@@VideoShowMeHow excellent cheers for the reply. I wouldn't focus too much on how much time it takes you to explain things unless it is making you time dependant this channel is great for ppl that want to watch someone else draw the sword first and pave the way. These kind of viewers will watch you no matter the time like me. I think time only becomes a problem when like some other channels (*cough* american *cough*) want to tell you about the time they went to war or how last night they had to feed their cat when you came to watch them talk about tyres or something of relevance. Just keep doing what you are doing mate its all good
Super helpful. Have just installed a second battery into my bt50 2022. I had to tap into the IG fuse as tjm tapped into the ac already. Everything works well however I keep getting front camera unavailable. Any ideas ? Thanks
So it's happened again this morning. It must have something to do with the second battery being charged. Are there any other fuses apart from the AC you'd recommend tapping into ? Thanks
Haven't tested beyond that one, you'd just need to find one that only turns on with ignition, use a test light to find one there's probably a few. Still find it odd that the camera unavailable has anything to do with that circuit.. it's not super sunny or anything when you get the unavailable? This can cause it to be temporarily 'blinded'
@@VideoShowMeHow yeah strange one it is. It's early in the morning so not really. Just hasn't happened before I put the second battery in. Seems to have fixed itself again hasn't popped up since the first start this morning. Will see how we go. Thanks
Using tie down points in the corners of the tub and the handles. Have actually has this in place for about a month now (just catching up with the editing/releases) with a few trips off-road and works a treat. Have rubber feet on the bottom of the box also so I almost the perfect height to the roller shutter. You'll see what I mean in the upcoming vids 👍👍
The size of the circuit plus a bit of headroom to account for voltage drop etc. Most BCDC units will have a recommendation base on their output, the BCDC40 like the one in the vid is 60amps
Can do both, but yes I've used the chassis point instead of running all the way back. I did this when I was running this and also now running the bigger Victron system
Great video. I really appreciate this. I'm waiting on my dcdc charger and a couple of other things before i start my project. I have a couple of q's. What size corrugated tubing / conduit did you get? And when you ran it under the ute did you just follow the cable for the towing wiring and attach with cable ties?
Hey there. I used 10mm corrugated tubing for the big wire and 7mm for the small (will find the links to the stuff I used and update the description) . Re the route yep there's already a big loom that runs along the chassis rail so just followed that, cable ties every 300mm or so 👍
Hey mate, love the vid only question I have is if you are using a 60amp fuse but you are only using a 50amp rated Anderson plug does that mean if shit hits the fan that the Anderson plug would melt before the fuse blows? Only asking because I want to make sure I buy the correct plugs. Also is it alright if the negative wire is only 8AWG even tho the positive wire is 6AWG. Ground wire is only 1.5 meters long. Cheers
Hi legend, thanks for you vid! I just have one question, is it imperative to have an isolater switch, is that to stop DC-DC running down my starter battery when I’m Not driving the car?
It should voltage sense, that is turn the charger off once voltage drops to a specific figure eg car turned off and alternator not charging. It's recommended though to be able to isolate the system
50a (assume you mean for the box connection?) Note an SB50 Anderson connector 50amp is only the max when connecting/disconnecting and they are actually rated to 120 continuous. Of course always double check the connector rating as they can come in different flavours
Hi Adam, I have a REDARC BCDC 1225D (25amp) charger and a Kings 12 Volt control box and a KickAss slimline aux battery. Do you have the wiring diagram for this? (No solar as yet). Cheers again Champ. (2021 Isuzu Dmax XTerrain) I will be running a Evacool fridge/Freezer and Air compressor off the Kings Control panel Anderson plugs (2)
No don't have direct experience with those boxes sorry mate, check-out the redarc site though they have great wiring diagrams for different scenarios 👍
Great video! Have a question, I'm working on a dual battery system using Redarc 1225D and I'm going with two AGM batteries, one as my starting battery and the other one as my auxiliary battery, only different thing I'd like to do is to use SBI12 isolator smart start to be able to jump start my starting battery if needed ! Where do i need to put the SB12 isolator ? Thanks in advance !
Between the starter and aux battery, fuse either side. More info here www.redarc.com.au/smart-start-sbi-12v-100a?gclid=Cj0KCQiAosmPBhCPARIsAHOen-MiQm6wfNXLt8Z7J87D58lpFcdVLf04S_hJ4E7UgSyX53mrL5MGyNcaArjvEALw_wcB
Just start my project on Dmax! Did you actually made a hole on rubber grommet? I pulled cable just like you did. And i was not sure about that grommet.
Evening Adam, quick question mate. As an electrical novice, i'm curious if this setup would be able to be bridged to supply extra power to a winch for better constant voltage/main battery longevity? I realise its mostly designed for running secondary items like a fridge and potentially an inverter for large items, but what would you need to upgrade to optimise it for afore mentioned task?
Redarc do one of their sbi isolators that allow you to join your batteries. But for winching so long as you're running your engine and have a decent sized cranking battery you won't have a problem.
Hey so I had an auto electrician install the wires from the starter battery back to inside my van. He wired the black cable to the negative on the starter. He said to just attach this case straight to the negative on the leisure battery. Sound right? Also, how did you work out cable and fuse size?
@@timquain5341 neg starter to neg second battery? Then POS to pos i assume? One way to do it yes. Recommend checking out the redarc resources www.redarcelectronics.com/au/resources/chargers-isolators-wiring-guides/how-to-wire-bcdc-caravan-vehicle-variable-voltage-alternator/
Awesome video's mate I'm just wondering with having the redarc bcdc which you are installing will that change the voltage on your smart alternator from say 12.5v to 13.2v which would be enough to charge the second battery for the accessories you are running off it. Cheers keep those vids coming.
Hey mate, the blue wire from the BCDC tells the unit when to power on (so when the smart alternator is powered down it doesn't cut the charge etc) and it also sets the charge profile depending on what you select based on your battery so it is always charging to the correct voltage and in the correct stage
Firstly, great video like all of your other. I followed it to a T! since installing the bdcd a couple of months ago I have had 2 flat batteries, so I'm wondering does the redard draw from the cranking battery. Any advice would be great
Hey mate, the bcdc should cut out once it's input falls below 12.7, back in when above 13.2 (and the smart alternator input if you have this). Which battery is going flat? Worth also checking the status light behaviour on the bcdc, the charge profile light should blink once it goes into standby, solid when charging.
hey mate, i love the detail you go into this, just have a quick question, in terms of the bus bar I want to add an inverter, can the bus bar you have handle it? It's a 2000W inverter BTW?
@2000W, a 2000w inverter is 90% efficient. Ie, it draws 2222w from your battery. Assume 12.5V @ the inverter or less, even with my 50mm2 cable. This works out to 178A which is exactly what I measure doing this test using the Victron Smart Shunt. @178A, even a '200A' ANL fuse block gets hot after 10mins. I am pondering how to fix that fuse block. Maybe need a better brand. Midi fuse blocks are smaller and handle lower currents to ANL blocks.
Hi mate I notice when the car is off the vehicle is solid red and stage is blinking for floating charge. I do have the blue wire connected to an accessory fuse only turns 12volts when ignition is on. So my question is, while the keys out of the car does the redarch bd dc have the LED light still on the vehicle and stage ? Or should it be off completely?
Hey Adam. great videos. im watching while recovering from surgery. one question though. that wire to the AC fuse, is that the one going to the blue smart alternator wire? i dont have have a smart alternator. do i still need to connect to an ignition on fuse? thanks
Gday Adam, great channel mate. A clarification please, I have a BT50, same vintage. The A/C fuse you tapped into is live on accessory mode (second press of starter button without engine starting). The a/c compressor isn’t running but that fuse is definitely live without the engine running. Does this matter? Thanks.
Hey Paul sorry I missed this.. hmmm will have to do some testing, may kick the charger into gear, but also thinking it might need to see above a certain voltage eg alt kicking on... Will test and come back
Hey Mate, if you turned the accessories on and not the engine would the BCDC think the alternator is running and charging the Aux battery and as a result drain the Aux battery?
@@giotestini yep I'd recommend using an aux battery for anything you use while car is off. Winch, spotlights usually still would run of your main as car will be running (and need the current draw for winching etc)
Hey dude, ordered the micro fuse piggyback adaptor as per your link but Isuzu Dmax 2021 uses micro2 fuses so might wanna update that link. Apart from that, awesome vid. Cheers
Ah rats you're right, I'm unsure why I had the standard micros there, the other vids are ok but missed this - apologies! Shoot me your postal and I'll send you some merch 👍🎁
Hey Adam, Great content and help with the video. I am currently booking up two Anderson leads on my DMax XT (one for Redarc DCDC in tub and one for caravan). Have run twin 6B&S x 2 back to under bonnet. Regarding where to hook up the negative I’ve read it has to be on the chassis side of the shunt module that comes off your main battery. If you hook up prior to this on main negative smart alternator won’t work correctly. Is that right? And when hooking up the two main positives I saw that you came before the electronic modules and hooked up to main positive before the module. So is it opposite to the negative? Thanks for your help!
Yes that's right, the neg for the smart alt has a little shunt, if you checkout on the recent vids on the channel like the winch install (might be a pic on the community tab come to think of it) it should show how everything is connected on the new 12v plate, is a bit clearer to see
@@VideoShowMeHow ok cheers. Thanks for that. I noticed you used the AC fuse for piggy back. I tested it with my meter yesterday, it’s not actually an ignition wire is it because it works on accessory?
I have the BCDC1225D Redarc charger, would this be compatible with the “VoltX 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Solar Charger Caravan Camping”??
Just installed my BCDC1240D - pretty much exact same setup as yours installed the same way. And after 20 mins of charging, I found the Anderson plug connecting positive starter battery > dcdc charger had melted together!! Any ideas?
@@VideoShowMeHow I ran the earth from both the aux batt and dcdc to the main earth on fuse box bus bar. Then one single earth from bus bar terminal to seat bolt chassis. Wonder if maybe too many earth points on the fuse box bus bar. Might be better just to run all earths to seat bolt individually
@@alwynvanderlinde9507 busbar large enough? All crimps of good quality etc? Potentially one of the Anderson crimps is a bit ordinary maybe check that first
Hi Adam, Wired up my redarc BDDC charger ( AGM Battery & orange wire not connected). And connected blue wire to AC fuse. Also have wired in a fixed solar panel, and it's light is also on with ignition off. And charge status stage light flashes once every few seconds. With ignition off, my charge profile light ( A ) is on. Is this correct ? Unit is not hot to touch. Cheers Jason
Hmm hard to diagnose over here, sounds like it may not be switching off. Great info in their own guide to help - cdn.intelligencebank.com/au/share/yE9N/zJpl/oGLrq/original/BCDC+Dual+Input+Instruction+Manual
@@VideoShowMeHow thanks Adam, so I checked it with a multimeter today. Ignition off in A/C fuse it's showing 4volts. Car running A/C fuse is showing 13/14 Volts
Hey mate, I'm about to do a similar setup hardware wise, but with an added sbi12 for jump starting. Is the 6B&S enough to go between the batteries and the isolator, or should I use something a bit more heavy duty? I will be running a secondary slimline battery behind the rear seats. The kit I've bought comes with 6B&S but upon doing some research I've come across mixed answers. Great, in-depth video too, cheers.
Hey mate, the single core 6b&S is rated up to 103 amps and is what redarc recommend for their 40amp bcdc. For the SBi redarc recommends 4 B&S for max 3m runs, next size up for longer
@@VideoShowMeHow sorry I should have mentioned I have the 1225. 6b&s will be fine for that. I'll have to get some 2b&s for inbetween the batteries and isolator. Appreciate the help thanks mate.
![Redarc BCDC1250D vs Enerdrive EN3DC40+ | DCDC Charger Comparison [2021]](/img/1.gif)
Check-out all the vids on the DIY AL-IN-ONE-BATTERY-BOX here - ruclips.net/p/PLloptHW8MGGjf-TgAbXbJ8Z2LORIRH6E3
0.23 seconds how simple is this diagram! Why couldn't redarc do this! For days now, I've been trying to wrap my head around the earth for the solar panel! This is the only video I could see how it was done! Bloody bus bar! Good work. Thanks heaps.
Just wanted to personally thank you for this video, must have watched it 25 times as I had a very similar setup going into my Ute toolbox. Done and dusted now and working well after an 8 day trip, thanks!!!
Very welcome, glad it helped in some way 👍
A bus bar! Been trying to work out the earth and this is the only informative video I've seen! Top notch 👌 👏
Many thanks. Very illuminating explanation of a piece of kit which, to an electrical novice like me, seemed impossible to understand.
Have been too nervous to cut into my tub in the wrong spot. This is very helpful. 👍
Great to hear 👍
Awesome vid it's been a life saver for when I completed my installation... I had a battery box already soo just brought a smaller alloy box to sit beside it and install everything into that then ran 2x extra cables out to my battery box to another anderson plug to then connect to my battery box.
Keep up the amazing vidz bro!!!
Great to hear, thanks for the comment!
This is an incredible video! Exactly what I needed. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and putting the effort into making this video!
@@lucasmillership Cheers 👍
Adam, you're content and personal delivery style are very watchable - clear, concise, and easy to understand. No fluff or extraneous commentary - straight to the point.
I'm using your content to guide my DIY Redarc BCDC50 setup with two 100a/hr Lithiums in the back of my 2021 BT-50 (D-max).
What are your thoughts on the Ground Cable run between Crank and House should be the same length as the Pos?
I have a rudimentary understanding of 12v but only enough to get me into trouble.
So some consternation for me as you ran your Deck to Chasis and not back to (or equal length) as your Pos.
On another segment, have ordered the bonnet struts per your recommendation. Looking forward to the easy lift when fitted.
Everyone says it, but keep the content coming - it's fantastic.
Thanks for the feedback Chris 👍
Regarding the equal length, for single battery setups like in the video it's not necessary. Equal length cable is generally recommended however when connecting more than one battery in series or parallel - eg the cable length that runs between the two batteries for positive and negative should be the same length
@@VideoShowMeHow Thanks Adam. I'm tuning in for more content. Merry Christmas mate.
@@interestedobserver76 🎅🎄 Cheers, you too
Brilliantly done. Clear and straightforward for a newbie Nigel no-tech. 👍
I love how you just go 100% no holds barred get the best shit and do it perfect. It's like compromise is not a word in your vocabulary.
If only I could afford to do the same :D
Great video mate, really professional work! How do you get the cable out of the fuse box while still keeping it sealed up? Drill a small hole and seal with silicone? Thanks in advance 😊
@@Bumpstead_ you got it 👍
Great video, using this set up can you charge the battery whilst the box is disconnected & unplugged from the alternator using solar blanket?
Sure can 👍
I'd love to see how you wire up the Victron monitor - I basically have the exact same system as you - super helpful as I am currently in the wiring up stage!
It's on it way mate! Air compressor vid is out next and the victron junior after that 👍👍
Victron vid now live!
Awesome video mate. 1 quick question, if i have an agm deep cycle battery do i still join the orange and green wire together? Cheers
That's the way redarc soooo their profile selection, that tells it it's lithium. This will depend on your unit, jump on their website to confirm, they have all the wiring diagrams etc there
Mate your videos are spot on, super helpful! Thanks so much I’m now going to tackle the install myself 💪🏼🙌🏼
Cheers mate!
@@VideoShowMeHow could you do one on a red arc tow pro 😜
Excellent tutorial video !
Thanks
I am putting a second battery 135ah lithium in the rear of a 90series Prado to run a fridge , compressor, lights and Solar Panel on roof and second fold up Solar Panel when stationary.
Where do I find the parts list you used ?
Thanks for all your help 👍
Mike Ward
All parts used linked in the video description 👍
At 7:13, What's the double sided tape you are using? Maybe I missed it, But, I don't see it in the description Does the Redark heats up a lot? Thank You for this excellent video.
Great video. I am going to build something similar until my canopy and draws arrive. What size is the box you used? How much space is left either side of the box when installed between the wheel arches?
It's not a perfect size, but was the best I could find at the time. I needed something that would fit the bigger 135ah battery and space for the compressor as well (install vid on the channel shows you the constraints). Also one that could fit under the roller shutter and not stick out too far. Will go to a custom box once the liner is pulled and tub raptor lined. With the box over to one side have about 40cm gap, enough to slide my pop top gazebo :)
Videos are absolutely brilliant. Informative and well presented. Cheers mate.
Great Video. Just getting a little dizzy with the camera motion.
What size conduit did you use for the 6bs cable? 10mm?
Yep
Great video Adam. Can’t believe I have only just stumbled on to your channel. So much great info. Questions to come… Keep them coming.
Hi mate sensational video. The only question I have is in regards to the drainage hole/ bung you pass the cabling through in the tub. Where does the water go through the shutter drainage without having them in place?
Hey mate, short answer is it doesn't. I was planning on replacing the hose but haven't had any leak in so haven't bothered. Just assume it's not going down the drain in the first place
Excellent video. Great setup which will be much more economical than a Redarc GoBlock for sure.
As usual, awesome video again & you make everything looks easy.👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great video again Adam as usual, where did you get all your wires and other gear from please mate, keep up the great work.
Most things used are linked in the video description. The rest were the standard Supercheap, Jaycar etc
Great thanks so much Adam I just found out how to look in the description lol. On a side note I just fitted the custom off-road bash plates, fantastic product, cheers for that video as well. Cheers Wayne
Great help planning my install, thank you!! CAUTION NOTE I am 80% sure those connector/piggyback fuses have to be installed in the correct orientation to work correctly.
In the fuse box 1 side of the fuse rail is connected to a power bus thingy and the other runs to the AC, ciggy lighter etc. The pin on the wired end of the piggyback fuse needs to attach to the AC/ciggy side pin not the powered bus side pin. Your 5 amp fuse will never pop if installed the wrong way. (Good chance I'm wrong; worth noting if I'm not ;)
Your not wrong that is definitely the case with those fuse taps
Thank you what a lovely presentation ... very easy to follow
Hello, i watched you video because I wasn't sure of my installation, and you seems to have the same as me. When my engine shut down, the Li light is blinking, I thought it was an indicator of an issue, no?
When I start my engine, the Li, vehicle and stage light are fix (light, no blinking), is the installation correct?
yep that's correct.
Hey mate happy Monday
I’m going to setup a lithium battery in my camp trailer can I run a solar panel just to charge the battery on its own not connected to a alternator
Yep, prob cheaper just to get a solar reg though?
@@VideoShowMeHow will do
Thanks Mate gonna run a Victron 100w25amp
@@michaeljenkyns1719 have one of those on the camper, is great particularly with the app 👌
Great video. I notice Redarc says the butt splice on the 6 gauge wire needs to be crimped and soldered, but I don’t see you mentioning that. Is it OK to avoid soldering? That’s the only thing I am not good at so crimping + heat shrink is preferred.
Hey mate, ideally crimp is you mechanical connection, solder your electrical. But of a can of worms this one. IMHO a proper crimp with proper tool then protected with shrink and tube is tried and tested 👍
Hi mate, love the videos. Using them to kit out my 2021 dmax so much appreciated. I also have a 18 foot caravan on order. Was wondering how the alternator copes with the 2 charging systems when you have your caravan on?
Yep, run via bcdc 👍
hi there. thanks for this. nice work. How do you secure the 60A fuse block to the main battery under the bonnet....super glue..or something elese?
Suggest double sided tape
Hi mate, great video by the way! How would you go with having the red arc unit in a camper to charge your camper batteries with a car with a smart alternator. Would you have to run ignition wire to properly charge the batteries in camper trailer while driving?
Yep you would if you had a smart alternator
incredibly informative and well paced! Thanks a mil!
Thanks 👍
Thanks for a great video and easy to follow. Just one question did you solder your conections after crimping?
Cheers, no crimp and heat shrink
thank you, Mr Nitrile.
Thanks for the helpful video. What are the 2 boxes on the sides of tub?
Cheers mate! Storage.. one has recovery gear etc and other has day trip stuff eg small burner, cooking stuff. There's an install vid on the channel if you want to check em out 👍
@@VideoShowMeHow thanks do u have a link to those boxes they are perfect for my dmax
@@WERDWERD-wo3xv yeah mate the link is in the description of the install vid :)
Hey mate great videos
I want to install a dc dc charger do I have too disconnect and remove my red arc battery isolated
Don't have to, can run in series to you second battery feed. I run an switch isolator on mine, after main battery, before the bcdc. That way can easily isolate the bcdc and rear battery box. If you check the 12v accessory plate video you'll see what I mean
Thanks mate
Also mate with the yellow solar cable I’m running Pv connectors on my bcdc how do I connect a earth cable to that connection
@@michaeljenkyns1719 can run that to any earth point
@@VideoShowMeHow cheers mate
Hi Adam
Quick question in time code 14:42 relating to the micro fuse struggling to get this to fit the fuse box and it is a micro fuse.
Appreciate your thoughts.
As in fitting in the fuse box itself or the fuse to fit?
How much cable did you need from the starter battery to the battery box? Is 5m enough?
Yeah I had about that from memory
Not sure if this has been asked already, but could you run both + & - from the car main battery , instead of direct to chassis ( reason I ask is I have +&- 6AWG )
You could yes
Assuming you only use the bus bar on the fuse box - could you run the negative from AUX battery to the main neg terminal on fuse box, then send all negatives to fuse box bus bar and have one negative cable from fuse box primary neg terminal to chassis earth? Wiring mine up this way tomorrow. Hopefully nothing explodes 😊
As always, great work 👍 look forward to the upcoming rest 👌
Thanks mate!
Hi, awesome video mate, just wanted to know why you used the connection with the red/white wire? And why didn't you do with the solder/heat shrink connector? Seems you only used 1 of the wires? Cheers, I hope to hear back soon. Once again, awesome, very helpful to everyone out here. Thanks.
Hi, was to get the trigger wire into the box. Is that the one you mean? I didn't solder as I wanted to be able to remove the box. That connector was just one I had, originally intended to use as a spare for something else but ended up redesigning the whole thing anyway (hence the StorMod vids)
Just thanks mate you’ve inspired me to make one of my own, thanks again. 👍👍
Nice!
Absolutely fantastic tutorial mate straight to the point and clear without the bloatware. Loving your channel its just making me more impatient for mine to arrive haha.
Are you going to fix your box to the spare mount points just under the roller cover box?
Thanks mate, sometimes difficult to get the detail vs time right! Yep you can see right at the end of the vid I have m8 eye bolts that I've put in place of the bolts under the roller tub and have a strap either side that holds it in place nicely. Have be offroading twice now like this and it's right solid. Is great with the compressor in it as well!! (That vid likely out this time next week)
@@VideoShowMeHow excellent cheers for the reply. I wouldn't focus too much on how much time it takes you to explain things unless it is making you time dependant this
channel is great for ppl that want to watch someone else draw the sword first and pave the way. These kind of viewers will watch you no matter the time like me. I think time only becomes a problem when like some other channels (*cough* american *cough*) want to tell you about the time they went to war or how last night they had to feed their cat when you came to watch them talk about tyres or something of relevance. Just keep doing what you are doing mate its all good
@@lindsaybrown5897 really appreciate the feedback mate 👍
Super helpful. Have just installed a second battery into my bt50 2022. I had to tap into the IG fuse as tjm tapped into the ac already. Everything works well however I keep getting front camera unavailable. Any ideas ? Thanks
Hmm shouldn't impact.. I'd drive for a bit see if it resets.
@@VideoShowMeHow yeah it seems to have fixed itself after a few restarts. Thanks !
So it's happened again this morning. It must have something to do with the second battery being charged. Are there any other fuses apart from the AC you'd recommend tapping into ? Thanks
Haven't tested beyond that one, you'd just need to find one that only turns on with ignition, use a test light to find one there's probably a few. Still find it odd that the camera unavailable has anything to do with that circuit.. it's not super sunny or anything when you get the unavailable? This can cause it to be temporarily 'blinded'
@@VideoShowMeHow yeah strange one it is. It's early in the morning so not really. Just hasn't happened before I put the second battery in. Seems to have fixed itself again hasn't popped up since the first start this morning. Will see how we go. Thanks
As always another awesome how to video, love your work mate 👍
I do believed that the add a circuit fuse tap links was meant to be for micro 2?
Hmm will check it in a tick👍
Hey mate, did you do any soldering for this whole setup or just crimping? Awesome video!! A great help
Redarc recommend crimps (solder can crack with vibration) so I went with that
@@VideoShowMeHow even with the Anderson plugs? Curious after watching your other videos
@@joshjinks6774 can do either for andos, I prefer crimping 👍
great set-up, how do you plan to secure the box once all finished?
Using tie down points in the corners of the tub and the handles. Have actually has this in place for about a month now (just catching up with the editing/releases) with a few trips off-road and works a treat. Have rubber feet on the bottom of the box also so I almost the perfect height to the roller shutter. You'll see what I mean in the upcoming vids 👍👍
Sweet cheers
Hey mate great video.
How do you determine the size of the midi fuses.
The size of the circuit plus a bit of headroom to account for voltage drop etc. Most BCDC units will have a recommendation base on their output, the BCDC40 like the one in the vid is 60amps
@@VideoShowMeHow thanks for the quick reply mate. I’m looking at a 1225d so that should tell me how big fuse I need ?
@@mitchelltatterson9799 redarc recommend a 40amp
Awesome vid as always brother. Thank you.
How do you secure them when your travelling?
So no isolator is necessary in this build right? Thank you
Don't necessarily need to, but is a handy option to have
What a legend Iam going to give it a good go I’ll let you know how it goes 👌🏼🇦🇺👍🏽
So you run a earth from the chassis instead of running from the crank battery negative terminal?
Can do both, but yes I've used the chassis point instead of running all the way back. I did this when I was running this and also now running the bigger Victron system
@VideoShowMeHow Yeah nice one
Very informative videos mate keep up the good work 👏 Thanks
Great video. I really appreciate this. I'm waiting on my dcdc charger and a couple of other things before i start my project. I have a couple of q's.
What size corrugated tubing / conduit did you get?
And when you ran it under the ute did you just follow the cable for the towing wiring and attach with cable ties?
Hey there. I used 10mm corrugated tubing for the big wire and 7mm for the small (will find the links to the stuff I used and update the description) . Re the route yep there's already a big loom that runs along the chassis rail so just followed that, cable ties every 300mm or so 👍
Can the black wire Negative go to the battery or it must be to a common ground
Can be either
Hey mate, love the vid only question I have is if you are using a 60amp fuse but you are only using a 50amp rated Anderson plug does that mean if shit hits the fan that the Anderson plug would melt before the fuse blows? Only asking because I want to make sure I buy the correct plugs. Also is it alright if the negative wire is only 8AWG even tho the positive wire is 6AWG. Ground wire is only 1.5 meters long. Cheers
Most Anderson plugs are rated to 50amps disconnect only, are higher for continuous current. Just double check the rating of the plug
Hi legend,
thanks for you vid! I just have one question, is it imperative to have an isolater switch, is that to stop DC-DC running down my starter battery when I’m
Not driving the car?
It should voltage sense, that is turn the charger off once voltage drops to a specific figure eg car turned off and alternator not charging. It's recommended though to be able to isolate the system
Does your dcdc over heat in the box?
Thanks for the video Adam, did you use a 50amp Anderson or a 120amp?
50a (assume you mean for the box connection?) Note an SB50 Anderson connector 50amp is only the max when connecting/disconnecting and they are actually rated to 120 continuous. Of course always double check the connector rating as they can come in different flavours
@@VideoShowMeHow thanks so much for that, never knew that.
Hi mate. Do you have a size of that tool box. Just trying to work out size in my dmax? I have 550mm in width to play with
Width of the box is 730. I needed the width for the larger battery and the air compressor
Hi Adam, I have a REDARC BCDC 1225D (25amp) charger and a Kings 12 Volt control box and a KickAss slimline aux battery. Do you have the wiring diagram for this? (No solar as yet). Cheers again Champ. (2021 Isuzu Dmax XTerrain) I will be running a Evacool fridge/Freezer and Air compressor off the Kings Control panel Anderson plugs (2)
No don't have direct experience with those boxes sorry mate, check-out the redarc site though they have great wiring diagrams for different scenarios 👍
@@VideoShowMeHow Cheers Adam. I found a Redarc RUclips video awhile ago which should help.
Great video! Have a question, I'm working on a dual battery system using Redarc 1225D and I'm going with two AGM batteries, one as my starting battery and the other one as my auxiliary battery, only different thing I'd like to do is to use SBI12 isolator smart start to be able to jump start my starting battery if needed ! Where do i need to put the SB12 isolator ? Thanks in advance !
Between the starter and aux battery, fuse either side. More info here www.redarc.com.au/smart-start-sbi-12v-100a?gclid=Cj0KCQiAosmPBhCPARIsAHOen-MiQm6wfNXLt8Z7J87D58lpFcdVLf04S_hJ4E7UgSyX53mrL5MGyNcaArjvEALw_wcB
@@VideoShowMeHow appreciated !
Just start my project on Dmax!
Did you actually made a hole on rubber grommet? I pulled cable just like you did. And i was not sure about that grommet.
And what is that grommet for ?
If you know about it.
Making sure im not drilling anything important😅
The tub grommet?
@@VideoShowMeHow yes
I just removed and used some rubber on the edges at the time. Have since replaced the grommets though, they're essentially to keep the dust out
Evening Adam, quick question mate. As an electrical novice, i'm curious if this setup would be able to be bridged to supply extra power to a winch for better constant voltage/main battery longevity? I realise its mostly designed for running secondary items like a fridge and potentially an inverter for large items, but what would you need to upgrade to optimise it for afore mentioned task?
Redarc do one of their sbi isolators that allow you to join your batteries. But for winching so long as you're running your engine and have a decent sized cranking battery you won't have a problem.
Great vid.
Have you happened to come across or thought about an upgrade for the roller cover to make it motorised? I would be keen to see that.
Yeah. HSP do one. Have been thinking of how I could make a little mod though..
@@VideoShowMeHow I've been looking for roller mod ideas myself. I would have thought someone would have one already but haven't seen one yet
@@guy3065 reckon it's possible, will just be what space is available etc
@@VideoShowMeHow I'll let you know if I figure something out otherwise keep up the great videos. I'm really enjoying the dmax build series
@@guy3065 cheers mate sounds good
Great video mate thank you.
Can you advise what size lug was needed for the chassis negative bolt? Cheers
It was an m8 bolt I think, i had a box of lugs just picked the best size sorry I can't be more specific
Just wondering, I got a BCDC charger on its way, a mate of mine end up giving me 8mm single core wire for me to use. is this 6BS wire thickness ?
really great instructive vid mate - well done, what was the approx cost excluding the battery? cheers
Cheers mate - for the BCDC or the whole box?
the whole box if you can......and ball park is fine ($10, $20, $50 👍👍) cheers
@@steve-deltasdad3906 don't have exact but would have been around 2k with everything Inc compressor but without battery
ok cool, thanks for the info.
do you need a relay for those style master switches?
thanks for a great video
Cheers. Depending on what you're running. They're rated for 20amos, but anything over about 10id be running a relay usually
@@VideoShowMeHow i mean the red one near your crank , sorry
@@Neuronpath you mean for the bcdc or the trigger wire?
@@VideoShowMeHow bcdc
@@Neuronpath nope no relay needed for that, just the midi fuse per the vid 👍
Great job, very helpful vid
Hey so I had an auto electrician install the wires from the starter battery back to inside my van. He wired the black cable to the negative on the starter. He said to just attach this case straight to the negative on the leisure battery. Sound right? Also, how did you work out cable and fuse size?
@@timquain5341 neg starter to neg second battery? Then POS to pos i assume? One way to do it yes. Recommend checking out the redarc resources www.redarcelectronics.com/au/resources/chargers-isolators-wiring-guides/how-to-wire-bcdc-caravan-vehicle-variable-voltage-alternator/
Great thank you
Awesome video's mate I'm just wondering with having the redarc bcdc which you are installing will that change the voltage on your smart alternator from say 12.5v to 13.2v which would be enough to charge the second battery for the accessories you are running off it.
Cheers keep those vids coming.
Hey mate, the blue wire from the BCDC tells the unit when to power on (so when the smart alternator is powered down it doesn't cut the charge etc) and it also sets the charge profile depending on what you select based on your battery so it is always charging to the correct voltage and in the correct stage
@@VideoShowMeHow cheers for that
Firstly, great video like all of your other. I followed it to a T! since installing the bdcd a couple of months ago I have had 2 flat batteries, so I'm wondering does the redard draw from the cranking battery. Any advice would be great
Hey mate, the bcdc should cut out once it's input falls below 12.7, back in when above 13.2 (and the smart alternator input if you have this). Which battery is going flat? Worth also checking the status light behaviour on the bcdc, the charge profile light should blink once it goes into standby, solid when charging.
Would the box need ventilating?
Yep, eventually did but moved to the stormod and that has automatic active cooling
hey mate, i love the detail you go into this, just have a quick question, in terms of the bus bar I want to add an inverter, can the bus bar you have handle it? It's a 2000W inverter BTW?
Hey there, thanks for your comment. Would be just too small.. it's a 150amp busbar, you'd want a 175 or 200. 2000w is 156 amps at 12.8..
@2000W, a 2000w inverter is 90% efficient. Ie, it draws 2222w from your battery. Assume 12.5V @ the inverter or less, even with my 50mm2 cable. This works out to 178A which is exactly what I measure doing this test using the Victron Smart Shunt.
@178A, even a '200A' ANL fuse block gets hot after 10mins. I am pondering how to fix that fuse block. Maybe need a better brand. Midi fuse blocks are smaller and handle lower currents to ANL blocks.
Hi mate I notice when the car is off the vehicle is solid red and stage is blinking for floating charge. I do have the blue wire connected to an accessory fuse only turns 12volts when ignition is on. So my question is, while the keys out of the car does the redarch bd dc have the LED light still on the vehicle and stage ? Or should it be off completely?
Should start blinking for standby mode. May not happen straight away though, check it after 5mins
The rubber automotive seal were did you get that? I'm having trouble finding
Bunnings
Hey Adam. great videos. im watching while recovering from surgery. one question though. that wire to the AC fuse, is that the one going to the blue smart alternator wire? i dont have have a smart alternator. do i still need to connect to an ignition on fuse? thanks
If no smart alternator no blue wire needed
Hi Mate. If your redarc getting super hot? Mine does and I was just wondering if your do the same. Thanks in advance
No not super hot, does get fairly warm though
Gday Adam, great channel mate. A clarification please, I have a BT50, same vintage. The A/C fuse you tapped into is live on accessory mode (second press of starter button without engine starting). The a/c compressor isn’t running but that fuse is definitely live without the engine running. Does this matter? Thanks.
Just to add, your fuse box layout appears the same as mine.
Hey Paul sorry I missed this.. hmmm will have to do some testing, may kick the charger into gear, but also thinking it might need to see above a certain voltage eg alt kicking on... Will test and come back
Hey Mate, if you turned the accessories on and not the engine would the BCDC think the alternator is running and charging the Aux battery and as a result drain the Aux battery?
No, one of the input conditions is it needs to see 13.2v +. With car off at rest you'll usually will see 12.6-12.8v at the starter battery
@@VideoShowMeHow epic, thank you. Would it be worth moving all the accessories over to second battery so no matter what you can always drive home?
@@giotestini yep I'd recommend using an aux battery for anything you use while car is off. Winch, spotlights usually still would run of your main as car will be running (and need the current draw for winching etc)
Any reason why did you choose to use 1240D instead 1225D?
Faster charging 👍
@@VideoShowMeHow
Thank you. 🙏
What sort of gauge wire did use underneath the bonnet to the charger
6b&s - link the video description bud
Good job
Thoughts on fitting new MUX 120amp alternator?
To a dmax?
@@VideoShowMeHow yes sorry
@@kromey111 it's probably possible, I haven't seen the new one, would be bolt pattern, size etc.
Hey dude, ordered the micro fuse piggyback adaptor as per your link but Isuzu Dmax 2021 uses micro2 fuses so might wanna update that link. Apart from that, awesome vid. Cheers
Ah rats you're right, I'm unsure why I had the standard micros there, the other vids are ok but missed this - apologies! Shoot me your postal and I'll send you some merch 👍🎁
new subscriber here great video.
Welcome aboard 👍
Hey Adam,
Great content and help with the video. I am currently booking up two Anderson leads on my DMax XT (one for Redarc DCDC in tub and one for caravan). Have run twin 6B&S x 2 back to under bonnet.
Regarding where to hook up the negative I’ve read it has to be on the chassis side of the shunt module that comes off your main battery. If you hook up prior to this on main negative smart alternator won’t work correctly. Is that right?
And when hooking up the two main positives I saw that you came before the electronic modules and hooked up to main positive before the module. So is it opposite to the negative?
Thanks for your help!
Yes that's right, the neg for the smart alt has a little shunt, if you checkout on the recent vids on the channel like the winch install (might be a pic on the community tab come to think of it) it should show how everything is connected on the new 12v plate, is a bit clearer to see
@@VideoShowMeHow ok cheers. Thanks for that. I noticed you used the AC fuse for piggy back. I tested it with my meter yesterday, it’s not actually an ignition wire is it because it works on accessory?
I have the BCDC1225D Redarc charger, would this be compatible with the “VoltX 12V 100Ah Lithium Battery LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Solar Charger Caravan Camping”??
Yep sure is 👍
thank you!
That battery will take 25A charge, no problems. But... mine shut of several times @ 40A charging after 30mins. 30A continuous charging was ok.
No need to use low voltage disconnect ?
I didn't no, worked fine
Just installed my BCDC1240D - pretty much exact same setup as yours installed the same way. And after 20 mins of charging, I found the Anderson plug connecting positive starter battery > dcdc charger had melted together!! Any ideas?
I would say there's a bad earth, sound there's high resistance somewhere. Have been running mine via an Anderson since this vid came out no probs
@@VideoShowMeHow I ran the earth from both the aux batt and dcdc to the main earth on fuse box bus bar. Then one single earth from bus bar terminal to seat bolt chassis.
Wonder if maybe too many earth points on the fuse box bus bar. Might be better just to run all earths to seat bolt individually
@@alwynvanderlinde9507 busbar large enough? All crimps of good quality etc? Potentially one of the Anderson crimps is a bit ordinary maybe check that first
Hi Adam,
Wired up my redarc BDDC charger ( AGM Battery & orange wire not connected).
And connected blue wire to AC fuse.
Also have wired in a fixed solar panel, and it's light is also on with ignition off.
And charge status stage light flashes once every few seconds.
With ignition off, my charge profile light ( A ) is on.
Is this correct ?
Unit is not hot to touch.
Cheers Jason
Hmm hard to diagnose over here, sounds like it may not be switching off. Great info in their own guide to help - cdn.intelligencebank.com/au/share/yE9N/zJpl/oGLrq/original/BCDC+Dual+Input+Instruction+Manual
@@VideoShowMeHow thanks Adam, so I checked it with a multimeter today.
Ignition off in A/C fuse it's showing 4volts.
Car running A/C fuse is showing 13/14 Volts
Any reason you chose the bcdc1240d over the bcdcn1240?
Bit more flexibility of being able to use in different future applications (the bcdcN is for incab only eg not weather resistant)
So to save a couple of dollars i could use the "n" for a behind seat install correct?
Yep 👍
Hey mate, I'm about to do a similar setup hardware wise, but with an added sbi12 for jump starting.
Is the 6B&S enough to go between the batteries and the isolator, or should I use something a bit more heavy duty? I will be running a secondary slimline battery behind the rear seats. The kit I've bought comes with 6B&S but upon doing some research I've come across mixed answers.
Great, in-depth video too, cheers.
Hey mate, the single core 6b&S is rated up to 103 amps and is what redarc recommend for their 40amp bcdc. For the SBi redarc recommends 4 B&S for max 3m runs, next size up for longer
@@VideoShowMeHow sorry I should have mentioned I have the 1225. 6b&s will be fine for that. I'll have to get some 2b&s for inbetween the batteries and isolator. Appreciate the help thanks mate.
You wont be able to jumpstart from a 100AH LFP battery, unless you are only jumping small engines, eg, motorbike or jetski.