Tech Talk Tuesday: SRT-4 Oil Pan and Oil Sensor Replacement How To
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Recently I started getting a check engine light for a faulty oil pressure sensor on my SRT-4, so I decided to go ahead and replace that sensor. I also had an issue with the drain plug in the oil pan and a slight oil pan gasket leak. As a result in today's video I show you the process I went through to replace the oil pan and the oil pressure sensor. I hope this video helps you with the process involved in completing these jobs.
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So I just finished replacing the oil pan and I am now getting 0 oil pressure. I don't think it is the sensor because I have an oil pressure gauge as well and that is reading 0. Any ideas?
Do I need to support the engine when I remove the lower motor mount?
No, the lower mount is actually and anti roll mount. The engine weight is mostly supported by what is known as the 4th mount which is located in the frame rail.
@@LifeatSpeed Thank you for responding, I really appreciate it. This clears things up for me a-lot. I was worrying about how I was going to support the engine while that mount was out. Glad to know that is a non issue.
So funny cause I just got done replacing mine a few weeks ago. Added a stud kit while I was there. It’s on my IG
I debated on it for mine, but figured I'd wait and do it on the next one.
Yeah, just wait till you install a windage tray! I just got one lol
Just found this when searching "SRT-4 oil pan gasket". I rebuilt my transmission 3 years ago, it failed 100 miles later, catastrophically. Finally got a rebuilt beefier FWD Performance transmission, put it in last week. Clutch slipped like crazy, and appeared the rear main seal went out, which is what I figured was causing the clutch to slip.
Got everything apart today, and lo and behold, rear corner towards driver pan stud bolt is loose (about 3/8" threaded out) AND the next two stud bolts are GONE, not even there. That would explain the oil all over, it's just odd because the car sat for 2 years, and it wasn't leaking oil before.
Did you use any silicone other than where you referenced the parting line? I'm trying to even understand what that means? Just put a dab of it right there on the block itself where the pan will mate up to it? Is that on both sides? The service manual is really vague, thought you might have more insight.
The pan is really one of the lesser worries, I'm glad I can get it fixed. I'm worried now that my stage III clutchmaster's modular clutch might be ruined, with only 105 miles on it, due to getting soaked with ATF and then engine oil. :(
The only place I put silicone was the 2 parting lines between the block and oil pump per the manual. It's the interface joint between those two parts and located on the passenger side of the engine.
How tall does your ceilings have to be to get a lift installed like that?
So a big factor is how tall the vehicles you have are. I've heard you can get away with a 9 foot ceiling. My ceiling is 11'4"
@@LifeatSpeed nice thanks for the feedback
You're welcome
Did you get your pan from modern performance?
No, I got it from my local dealer.
I had forgotten what it’s like to work on something that’s clean. Thanks for the reminder. LOL
Good step-by-step video. Thanks for sharing
I need to replace my oil pan gasket.do I need to replace my oil pan as well?
No you don't. The reason I did was because the threads for the drain plug were starting to strip.
@@LifeatSpeed ok.can you not just replace the drain plug if it’s stripped?
The plug wasn't what stripped, it was the threads in the pan itself
@@LifeatSpeed oh ok thanks.so if the bolt is stripped I can just replace the bolt yes?
If the bolt is stripped and not the pan then yes. That said the bolt is steel and the pan is aluminum so the likelihood of the bolt stripping instead of the pan is unlikely