You have a wonderful detailed craftsmanship about your work. It was very enjoyable watching you prepare the workshop, although it was only for someone else to detail out.
If building a structure that will serve as a major repair area for steam era locomotives and one is going to detail the interior there are a number of detail items that should be included. One is either a large horizontal or vertical lathe for locomotive components. Second is most likely a Horizontal Boring Mill for cleaning up the bores of worn cylinders. Third is a good size Radial Drill Press. Fourth is something that I do not know if you can even get as a detail part. It might have to scratchbuilt (runs hands together gleefully👍). And that is a Horizontal Hydraulic Press. We had one were I served my apprenticeship that was bought used from a closed repair facility for steam locomotives. It would have been able to press the drivers off and on their axles up to about a 72" diameter driver. Fifth of course is all the other shop items. Gas axe (oxy acetylene tanks), smaller machine tools, work benches, tool boxes, smaller presses (arbor or hydraulic), an area for working with Babbitt (see the scene in the train were Burt Lancaster is pouring a new bearing) and of course the coffee pot. You cant fix anything without a good strong cup of java. Can you really see a Starbuck's cup in a steam locomotive repair facility? 😉
4:10 "And although assembling [the walls] on the floor would be the easiest way to go about it..." ... the dogs are running around down there and they'd probably break it.
Looks great, but I always like to see how you add the little details to make it so much better than just a kit, but you had a handicap on this one....thanks for sharing....Jack
Hi Peter yes a bit of weathering would have made it look alot better , I couldn't afford a round house, so I had a look at my sons old Thomas the tank engine round house ,it has automatic opening doors and with a bit of card and painting ,then weathering voila! We can never underestimate the power of the brush! 👍👍👍👍👍
Great video and info as always! Question, though.. you're essentially welding the pieces together, but what if you had painted it first, what kind of glue do you use after painting? I imagine that the MEK wont be the ideal cement at that point.
When painting prior to assembly, there are a few different methods. One is to mask the joints. Another is to scrape off any paint that gets onto the glue surfaces. For the walls, all the spraying will be done from the front while the glue surfaces are mainly on the back, so there isn't much to clean up - probably quicker than masking in most cases.
Oh well. Unfortunately, orders are orders. I guess the customer does not want to incur any extra costs, no matter what the reason. However, despite those instructions, I think you could have gotten away with a semi matte spray finish on the exterior brickwork before you put everything together. This customer knows of your talents so I personally don’t see why he’d get upset over a minor upgrade. After all, you left an option to improve it in the future if so desired. But as you said...... Either way, a basic build to show how good the kit looks even without the detailing one could put into it.
No. If the customer wants construction only, you do construction only. You don't know why they don't want anything more than that, so you don't do anything more than that. If you think it's a bad idea, you advise the customer about that but, if they insist, you either do what they ask or you decline the job.
Methyl-Ethyl-Keytone (Butanone) - also known as MEK. MEK/Butanone is used with gums, resins, cellulose acetate and nitrocellulose coatings (paints) and in vinyl films MEK is a "Plastic-SOLVANT" . Use as a plastic welding agent. As butanone dissolves polystyrene and many other plastics, it is sold as "model cement" for use in connecting parts of scale model kits. Though often considered an adhesive, it is actually functioning as a solvant-welding agent in this context. MEK-P - Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide Model-Makers sometimes use MEK-P as a "Resin HARDNER" catalyst MEK-P is used in industry and by hobbyists a s the catalyst which initiates the crosslinking of unsaturated polyester resins used in fiberglass, and casting. For this application, MEKP is dissolved in dimethyl phthalate, cyclohexane peroxide, or diallyl phthalate to reduce sensitivity to shock. .
MEK. Methyl Ethyl Ketone. According to one hobby shop in Brisbane, Australia, it’s banned from sale so they charge you $20 for a 125ml bottle. Turns out you can still buy it from the “Australian Home Depot” for about $3.00 for 4 times the quantity. It’s sold as PVC pipe solvent / glue. Apparently it’s still readily available in your country. Cheers Lancelot
You have a wonderful detailed craftsmanship about your work. It was very enjoyable watching you prepare the workshop, although it was only for someone else to detail out.
If building a structure that will serve as a major repair area for steam era locomotives and one is going to detail the interior there are a number of detail items that should be included. One is either a large horizontal or vertical lathe for locomotive components. Second is most likely a Horizontal Boring Mill for cleaning up the bores of worn cylinders. Third is a good size Radial Drill Press. Fourth is something that I do not know if you can even get as a detail part. It might have to scratchbuilt (runs hands together gleefully👍). And that is a Horizontal Hydraulic Press. We had one were I served my apprenticeship that was bought used from a closed repair facility for steam locomotives. It would have been able to press the drivers off and on their axles up to about a 72" diameter driver. Fifth of course is all the other shop items. Gas axe (oxy acetylene tanks), smaller machine tools, work benches, tool boxes, smaller presses (arbor or hydraulic), an area for working with Babbitt (see the scene in the train were Burt Lancaster is pouring a new bearing) and of course the coffee pot. You cant fix anything without a good strong cup of java. Can you really see a Starbuck's cup in a steam locomotive repair facility? 😉
Mountain Dew! A modeler's delight.
always enjoy your videos. thanks for doing what you do
I enjoyed that. You built the machine shop methodically and included some filing of parts too which I might have overlooked. Thanks Peter.
you always make it look so easy
Experience shows.
4:10 "And although assembling [the walls] on the floor would be the easiest way to go about it..."
... the dogs are running around down there and they'd probably break it.
That’s a nice looking build, Peter. We’ll done!
Looks great, but I always like to see how you add the little details to make it so much better than just a kit, but you had a handicap on this one....thanks for sharing....Jack
Hi Peter yes a bit of weathering would have made it look alot better , I couldn't afford a round house, so I had a look at my sons old Thomas the tank engine round house ,it has automatic opening doors and with a bit of card and painting ,then weathering voila! We can never underestimate the power of the brush! 👍👍👍👍👍
Hello Peter, that was a nice little build. See ya next week.
Love the dog!
I love the dogs too.
Good video. Want to see the round house build.
That one will be available next week.
The customer is always right even when they are wrong lolol
And they often are
Great work 👍
thank you detail video
from Australia
Building looks good. Shame you couldn't paint it.
Great video and info as always! Question, though.. you're essentially welding the pieces together, but what if you had painted it first, what kind of glue do you use after painting? I imagine that the MEK wont be the ideal cement at that point.
When painting prior to assembly, there are a few different methods. One is to mask the joints. Another is to scrape off any paint that gets onto the glue surfaces. For the walls, all the spraying will be done from the front while the glue surfaces are mainly on the back, so there isn't much to clean up - probably quicker than masking in most cases.
@@mpeterll ahh, very nice. I didn't even think of masking the joints. Great tip, thank you!
You are well aware.. the customer isn't always right, however they pay the bills..hopefully
Sad that your customer didn’t want any painting or weathering of the structure. Did they give you a reason for their choice?
Where did you get the spru clippers?
Oh well. Unfortunately, orders are orders. I guess the customer does not want to incur any extra costs, no matter what the reason.
However, despite those instructions, I think you could have gotten away with a semi matte spray finish on the exterior brickwork before you put everything together. This customer knows of your talents so I personally don’t see why he’d get upset over a minor upgrade. After all, you left an option to improve it in the future if so desired.
But as you said......
Either way, a basic build to show how good the kit looks even without the detailing one could put into it.
No. If the customer wants construction only, you do construction only. You don't know why they don't want anything more than that, so you don't do anything more than that. If you think it's a bad idea, you advise the customer about that but, if they insist, you either do what they ask or you decline the job.
Nice job I sub u
Great job why don’t you build another kit and paint it like you want show video doing this
What did you use to glue the pieces together?
Methyl-Ethyl-Keytone (Butanone) - also known as MEK.
MEK/Butanone
is used with gums, resins,
cellulose acetate
and nitrocellulose coatings (paints)
and in vinyl films
MEK is a "Plastic-SOLVANT" .
Use as a plastic welding agent.
As butanone dissolves polystyrene and many other plastics,
it is sold as "model cement" for use in connecting parts of scale model kits.
Though often considered an adhesive,
it is actually functioning as a solvant-welding agent in this context.
MEK-P - Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide
Model-Makers sometimes use MEK-P as a "Resin HARDNER" catalyst
MEK-P is used in industry and by hobbyists a
s the catalyst which initiates the crosslinking of unsaturated polyester resins
used in fiberglass, and casting.
For this application, MEKP is dissolved in dimethyl phthalate,
cyclohexane peroxide,
or diallyl phthalate to reduce sensitivity to shock.
.
MEK. Methyl Ethyl Ketone. According to one hobby shop in Brisbane, Australia, it’s banned from sale so they charge you $20 for a 125ml bottle. Turns out you can still buy it from the “Australian Home Depot” for about $3.00 for 4 times the quantity. It’s sold as PVC pipe solvent / glue. Apparently it’s still readily available in your country. Cheers Lancelot
Meant to add they sell an alternative for that amount
@@SnowAndrews cool