@martinagrunden896 I would love to make that video for you, but unfortunately I don't have access to a CX3 at the moment so I can make it. Sorry I couldn't help further
Thank you for the video! I'm going to be doing brakes on a 2019 CX-3 soon. Do you recommend Raybestos pads? I''m shopping for pads that are decent and reasonably priced. Thanks again.
No problem at all. So, for Raybestos, I've met a few technicians who say they're complete garbage. But I've used them dozens of times on a variety of vehicles, my own included, and never had any issues. So for my personal opinion, Raybestos is good. Especially their Element3 line.
Just one point to make my friend when replacing the sliding pins you must compress the air back out of the rubber boot by pushing and twisting the pin and squeezing the boot this stops the springing action from compressed air at the end of the pin otherwise your outer pad will rub slightly on the disc especially when the caliper warms up.
Do you have to remove the front caliper mounting bracket to put the new Brake Pad Springs in, as I am just needing to change front and rear pads, I do not need new Rotors
Nope, you don't need to remove the mounting bracket if you are just doing the pads, front or rear. For the front, it will be very straightforward and easy to do. For the rear pads, it is a little more frustrating to put the inner pad in, which i mention in the video. So I did it with the mounting bracket off the car. However, I did install the pads on the other side of the car with the mounting bracket installed, and it was possible, just...annoying. It will need some patience, at least it did for me. But you can get all 4 sides done without taking the mounting brackets off
Great video...I like to crack the bleeder and lightly pinch the rubber brake line when compressing the puck to avoid pushing old fluid into the ABS system.
this car looks very rusty for that a CX3 cannot be older than 2015. My Volkswagen from 2001 looks as rusty as this one, but it´s almost 20 years old and stands outside the whole year. It this normal ? In my opinion a car from 2015 shouldn´t be that rusty.
I take it your are not from a northern area/country? Places with snow, ice and road salt have this issue...perfectly normal. For Underbody, including brakes, suspension, chassis, exhaust, etc depending on where you live in the north, can start rusting within a year. Rust proofing is very popular here in Canada, but it does not protect suspension and brakes. It's very annoying, especially when having to do maintenance work
@@segoiii that's a perfect example, actually. I can't speak for all of Germany, but for the areas I've been (mainly Hanover, Hamburg, and surrounding areas) they don't get nearly as much snow, and crucially, in those areas, Germany is very particular with road salt use, due to the environmental effects. You can confirm if this is still true?.. I've seen it used, but not to the level used here in Canada. I'm not lying when I say that after the snow melts in the spring, the roads remain white for a while due to salt stains. It completely covers our cars, and our chassis' take a beating. I did a video on my pontiac grand prix a little while ago. It is a 15 yr old car, and I did the rear trailing arms. You can see a ton of road salt come out of the bushing as I removed the trailing arm. I've worked on 15 yr old Florida cars that are in far better condition than a 4 yr old Canadian car. We are a severe climate country, so this is common
@@NexusAuto i agree with you. Im from Czech republic. Neihgbour country to Germany to east. I have Mazda CX3 and after one year, brakes looks the same as yours in video. Chasis and rest of it undr car looks the same. Heavy use of salt here is normal. Im not a car mechanic, question, if scrub the rust and paint it will help? somehow? and btw thanx for video you save me lot of money.
No problem on the video. Saved a lot of money there. For certain components, you can sand it down for sure, and spray paint on it. There is rust inhibitor paint and there is also rubberized undercoating. You cannot do that with certain components though, like anything that moves (like the caliper piston or pins, strut shaft, the threads of any component ,etc). You want to make sure you can remove a component in the future, if needed.
Great video but you put a greasy finger right on the pad when mounting it. You said the torques required in imperial (add metric for international viewers) and didn't use a torque wrench to set them - just winged it lol.
Thanks, but the greasy finger wasn't a big concern for me, as it will burn off when burnished properly. They have torque spec Converters out there on google that can convert specs for you. And why are you concerned how I tightened my bolts? I provided specs. Mechanic feel is real. Thanks.
To each their own, of course. It really is about knowing when to use it. I still have all my original ratchets, even my first one from 20 years ago. None have broken teeth or any issues. I wasn't hitting it very hard at all. Also, it's all about knowing torque values. This was rated up to 81 ft lbs. This is always good to know as it tells you what to tightenup to, but it also tells you how much force is needed. If I see a bolt rated at over 100 ft/lbs, im going straight to my gun, a breaker bar, or a wrench and hammer. Personally, I would rather have someone who torqued to spec and used a hammer and ratchet, vs not torquing and using a wrench. But I get it too...people tend to beat the hell out of their ratchets. Meh, whatever works. It would be my tool that would break
@@NexusAuto In fairness having done the job now those bolts were not very tight, so unlikely to damage the ratchet. I'd still bollock any apprentice I caught doing it though!😀 Good clear informative video, a lot better than a lot of these "Instructional" videos that appear on RUclips. Thanks. 👍
@@grommit51 haha I hear that. Not gonna lie, if I saw an apprentice doing that, I would probably do the same! Lol. Thanks for the great feedback. Happy to hear the video was helpful!
Thank you so much! Fantastic videos. I was able to replace rotors and pads on my wife’s CX3 by watching your videos. Great job, thanks!
That's awesome news! Happy to hear that the videos helped out on both brake axles!
as a new driver to the cx 3 and someone that wants to start doing their own repairs, can u show how to take off the tires and put them back on?
@martinagrunden896 I would love to make that video for you, but unfortunately I don't have access to a CX3 at the moment so I can make it. Sorry I couldn't help further
@@NexusAuto thats okay! its just that i have a cx 3 and i dont wanna screw anything up with taking the tires off
@martinagrunden896 absolutely! I hear that. I think it's awesome that you're taking the time to learn and do this stuff. Amazing!
Thanks a lot man, comin close to 75k and about swap up brakes n rotors, great video !
Great, that is some good mileage on those brake. Glad to hear the video was helpful.
Legend, going to start this job now, thanks man!
@vuhgo1982 no problem. Hope the job went well!
@@NexusAuto went perfect, thanks again
Thank you for the video! I'm going to be doing brakes on a 2019 CX-3 soon. Do you recommend Raybestos pads? I''m shopping for pads that are decent and reasonably priced. Thanks again.
No problem at all. So, for Raybestos, I've met a few technicians who say they're complete garbage. But I've used them dozens of times on a variety of vehicles, my own included, and never had any issues. So for my personal opinion, Raybestos is good. Especially their Element3 line.
Thanks again!@@NexusAuto
Does it need to be in any sort of mateince mode for the front breaks?
@@oliviajohns2755 nope. For the front brakes, you don't need to put it into maintenance or service mode
Just one point to make my friend when replacing the sliding pins you must compress the air back out of the rubber boot by pushing and twisting the pin and squeezing the boot this stops the springing action from compressed air at the end of the pin otherwise your outer pad will rub slightly on the disc especially when the caliper warms up.
Do you have to remove the front caliper mounting bracket to put the new Brake Pad Springs in, as I am just needing to change front and rear pads, I do not need new Rotors
Nope, you don't need to remove the mounting bracket if you are just doing the pads, front or rear.
For the front, it will be very straightforward and easy to do.
For the rear pads, it is a little more frustrating to put the inner pad in, which i mention in the video. So I did it with the mounting bracket off the car. However, I did install the pads on the other side of the car with the mounting bracket installed, and it was possible, just...annoying. It will need some patience, at least it did for me. But you can get all 4 sides done without taking the mounting brackets off
Hey do you know the part number for the brakes ?
@@xavierstapleton9780 are you talking OEM part number? And if so, what year is your CX3?
Thanks for your vid, very helpful
@@alexevans5864 you're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Well done sir. just one thing, you might want to put like a caption on the video when you talk about the torque setting for the bolts. thank you
Fair point. I will take that into consideration for future videos. I really appreciate the feedback. Thank you
Good video, nicely presented
@@PaulGeauvreau thank you!
Excellent video... exceptionally explanatory.
Thanks. That's very much appreciated. Thank you for watching!
Great job. Good views. Well done.
Thanks, much appreciated
Excellent Instructional Video!!
Thanks, Appreciate it.
Great video...I like to crack the bleeder and lightly pinch the rubber brake line when compressing the puck to avoid pushing old fluid into the ABS system.
That's an awesome thing to do. Nothing wrong with that at all..Great step to have!
Wats the min thickness u should replace the rotor for cx3? I could not see it in the manual
Unfortunately, I am not sure of the spec on minimum thickness at this time. If I get that data, I will definitely let you know
23mm
Ojalas sigas subiendo más videos del Mazda cx 3 , porfavor, gracias
Este es un automóvil para clientes, no el mío, por lo que no tendré muchos videos. Pero tengo un par más.
Great video thanks!
No problem at all !
Y los frenos traseros como se cambian si tienen caliper electrónico?
Lo mencioné en mi nuevo video. Echale un vistazo. ¡Gracias por ver!
Thank you for this!
No problem at all! Glad the video was helpful
cheers!
Glad to hear it is helpful!
thank you, u just save me 1.000 eur
No problem at all. That is huge savings. Glad the video helped out.
this car looks very rusty for that a CX3 cannot be older than 2015. My Volkswagen from 2001 looks as rusty as this one, but it´s almost 20 years old and stands outside the whole year. It this normal ? In my opinion a car from 2015 shouldn´t be that rusty.
I take it your are not from a northern area/country? Places with snow, ice and road salt have this issue...perfectly normal. For Underbody, including brakes, suspension, chassis, exhaust, etc depending on where you live in the north, can start rusting within a year. Rust proofing is very popular here in Canada, but it does not protect suspension and brakes. It's very annoying, especially when having to do maintenance work
@@NexusAuto Hmmm. I'm coming from Germany. Definitely not like Canada but there is snow, ice and salt here in the winter.
@@segoiii that's a perfect example, actually. I can't speak for all of Germany, but for the areas I've been (mainly Hanover, Hamburg, and surrounding areas) they don't get nearly as much snow, and crucially, in those areas, Germany is very particular with road salt use, due to the environmental effects. You can confirm if this is still true?.. I've seen it used, but not to the level used here in Canada. I'm not lying when I say that after the snow melts in the spring, the roads remain white for a while due to salt stains. It completely covers our cars, and our chassis' take a beating.
I did a video on my pontiac grand prix a little while ago. It is a 15 yr old car, and I did the rear trailing arms. You can see a ton of road salt come out of the bushing as I removed the trailing arm. I've worked on 15 yr old Florida cars that are in far better condition than a 4 yr old Canadian car. We are a severe climate country, so this is common
@@NexusAuto i agree with you. Im from Czech republic. Neihgbour country to Germany to east. I have Mazda CX3 and after one year, brakes looks the same as yours in video. Chasis and rest of it undr car looks the same. Heavy use of salt here is normal. Im not a car mechanic, question, if scrub the rust and paint it will help? somehow? and btw thanx for video you save me lot of money.
No problem on the video. Saved a lot of money there. For certain components, you can sand it down for sure, and spray paint on it. There is rust inhibitor paint and there is also rubberized undercoating. You cannot do that with certain components though, like anything that moves (like the caliper piston or pins, strut shaft, the threads of any component ,etc). You want to make sure you can remove a component in the future, if needed.
🌞💥🤟🙂🤟
Great video but you put a greasy finger right on the pad when mounting it. You said the torques required in imperial (add metric for international viewers) and didn't use a torque wrench to set them - just winged it lol.
Thanks, but the greasy finger wasn't a big concern for me, as it will burn off when burnished properly. They have torque spec Converters out there on google that can convert specs for you. And why are you concerned how I tightened my bolts? I provided specs. Mechanic feel is real. Thanks.
Not sure I'd trust a mechanic that uses a lump hammer on a Ratchet.
To each their own, of course. It really is about knowing when to use it. I still have all my original ratchets, even my first one from 20 years ago. None have broken teeth or any issues. I wasn't hitting it very hard at all.
Also, it's all about knowing torque values. This was rated up to 81 ft lbs. This is always good to know as it tells you what to tightenup to, but it also tells you how much force is needed. If I see a bolt rated at over 100 ft/lbs, im going straight to my gun, a breaker bar, or a wrench and hammer.
Personally, I would rather have someone who torqued to spec and used a hammer and ratchet, vs not torquing and using a wrench. But I get it too...people tend to beat the hell out of their ratchets. Meh, whatever works. It would be my tool that would break
@@NexusAuto In fairness having done the job now those bolts were not very tight, so unlikely to damage the ratchet. I'd still bollock any apprentice I caught doing it though!😀
Good clear informative video, a lot better than a lot of these "Instructional" videos that appear on RUclips.
Thanks. 👍
@@grommit51 haha I hear that. Not gonna lie, if I saw an apprentice doing that, I would probably do the same! Lol.
Thanks for the great feedback. Happy to hear the video was helpful!
Next time bleed the brakes