Dear Sarah your information each time is priceless and it seems we can't get enough. Before i thought woody amber base or perfume was something brown colored dark and recently i realized that it could be iso e super only with ambroxan etc..i mean more transparent dry smells..please do a broadcast about how much is the "correct "or chemically a rule in perfumery a percentage for fixatives, modifiers and boosters to project the other materials in a composition..like if i use 1gr of flowers either natural or synthetic..how much hedione or musks or salicylate we have to use..thanks again
I'm sorry to tell you that there are no such rules. 🙂 Perfumery materials do not divide easily into "boosters", "modifiers" and "fixers" as their behaviour is rather more complicated than this, although it is one approach to get started on your path to becoming a perfumer. Materials will often behave differently according to the blends they are added to.
Hi, Sarah! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Could you please teach about resins and resinoids, eg benzoin, opoponax, myrrh, frankincense, and how to use it in perfumery and accords? Thank you so much 💚
I think I already have some films about those. I will definitely make more when these topics are featured on my Scenthusiasm Patreon timetable. (I just don't remember exactly what I have planned.)
Thank you very much for that film because I was always confused: does that Amber Accord of Wanilin and labdanum ( and other resins such as benzoin)literally is based upon the fossilized resin or rather ambergris? So there are two kinds of Amber and this concept of the real resin really exist :) Some say it's a translation error ;) Thank you!
Vanillin + Labdanum is said to resemble the aroma of "ambre jaune" yellow amber, from the tree resin. "Ambre gris" grey amber, is evoked by the ambrox style molecules. Both can be used in the same perfumes.
So many that I haven't tried, but I'm still in the process of eradicating my mental aversion to the label. Would be very interesting to do a medical retrospective study to find out just how many people became more sensitive to at least a selcet few after recovering from post-2020 viral anosmia. I struggle to believe that I'm the only one who became a woody amber-sniffer dog only a few short weeks after. 🤣 But I had no idea you made a Lynx frag Sarah!! Love the erlenmeyer bottle. 😍 Is it possible that we have you to thank for the original Mugler-esque Dark Temptation? Still one of the best deodorants to use with gourmands.
Goodness me, I didn't make the Lynx! Their perfumers did. I just took part in an elaborate research project long before I had ever started to make my own perfume. There's no way in a million years I would be asked to do the job of a corporate perfumer working in the industry. I just told them what I wanted, and they sent it to me a few weeks later. Honoured that you would think this could happen, but equally mortified that I have given that impression.
I am also really distracted by Woody Amber materials in a frag. It's a note that takes over completely in a composition -if it's used tastelessly, as it typically is. I blame all the reviewers complaining about the "Projection" and "Longevity" of every single classy and artful fragrance. Kali Yuga, what can you do.
@mandarinmelon This! It’s so heartbreaking when people reviewing fragrances talk only about compliments, projection and cost… what happened to appreciation of beauty?
Informative as always! Thank you. Sandalore is great! So comforting and rich without being heavy. Speaking of sandalwood, can you please share with us your opinion on Javanol in your future films? It’s hard to get to where I’m from, so I wanted to ask guru first💛
Hi, I know your question is to madam Sara, but I will still go ahead and share my experience with Javanol. For perspective, I am incense maker and I use compounds for burning applications. Initially when I smelled Javanol @100%, I could smell nothing. Only once it is used in a blend at lower than 0.5%, it starts to show its character. To me, it is very heavy, dairy cream, buttery, velvety, soft, woody, slightly rosy and sweet molecule. It is very very diffusive. It has amazing result in my incense application. Basically, if you want a heavy beta-santalol character, then you should go for Javanol. But for 1:1 sandalwood, you can go for Dreamwood base. You can enhance the sandalwood base significantly by adding some Polysantol, and Javanol. Then there are other compounds like Bacdanol, Brahmanol, SMC, etc
Sorry I missed this earlier and thanks @alokpandey9532. I like Javanol but never enough to add it to my collection and as it has biodegradability issues I'm probably not going to start now.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I meant Iso E Super (or similar), Hedione (or similar), and white musks (like Ethylene Brassylate, Galaxolide, Habanolide, etc), and then Ambroxan (or similar). (And not necessarily just one mat, either. Like, it could be many musks, and it could be many ambergris-style materials.)
@JayMannStuff right! They aren't usually called bases. They can be called base materials. I have made many films on those already, but I could try to find some for you.
Hi madam Sarah, very good topic and very informative discussion. Please do cover Amber Xtreme, Z10/Z11 sometime in future. Regarding Cypriol, I never thought that it could be used for woody ambery Accords. To me, it smells spicy woody.
I probably won't cover Z10/Z11 as I don't buy them. Cypriol is in the woody planet that I added to make the wood amber accord interesting. I usually find popular woody ambers quite dull, just strong and invasive.
Thank you for another interesting video! I just adore you both and all your informative content..I long to be part of the perfume world.. little old me with my bottles of oils and head full of dreams...🩵
Yes, I said 15%. Technically it is an odd number in that it isn't an even number, but it's perfectly reasonable to have Iso E Super at 15% and not at all unusual. I also have it at 100% strength for blending the concentrate, but for blending an eau de parfum 15% is just right. I have it at 20% too, and at 10% for different experiments.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 interesting! Thank you. As I was a beginner a year ago, it's really fun to see how I diluted everything to 50% and 20% and thought it was just weak. But nose got better and better, and now, often, even 10% seems to much for me regardless of the material. Depends though, I know 😌
@@GO2CUT Jean-Claude Ellena has 10% as standard and varies from there. The myth about fragrances being "better" when they are more concentrated is just a myth.
Woody ambers. Boy have I bought quite a few always thinking they will smell quite different from each other but nope most tend to smell the same, lol. The worst part is that if I did a little research before hand I would realize that they are the same with different names 😂 karmawood/norlimbinal 🫣 I always enjoy both of you conversing as you’re witty and Arthur’s funny. ❤
Manufacturers all want one of their own because they sell well. It's a bit like going to a superhero movie hoping it will have a completely different story.
Dear Sarah your information each time is priceless and it seems we can't get enough. Before i thought woody amber base or perfume was something brown colored dark and recently i realized that it could be iso e super only with ambroxan etc..i mean more transparent dry smells..please do a broadcast about how much is the "correct "or chemically a rule in perfumery a percentage for fixatives, modifiers and boosters to project the other materials in a composition..like if i use 1gr of flowers either natural or synthetic..how much hedione or musks or salicylate we have to use..thanks again
I'm sorry to tell you that there are no such rules. 🙂 Perfumery materials do not divide easily into "boosters", "modifiers" and "fixers" as their behaviour is rather more complicated than this, although it is one approach to get started on your path to becoming a perfumer. Materials will often behave differently according to the blends they are added to.
Hi, Sarah! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Could you please teach about resins and resinoids, eg benzoin, opoponax, myrrh, frankincense, and how to use it in perfumery and accords?
Thank you so much 💚
I think I already have some films about those. I will definitely make more when these topics are featured on my Scenthusiasm Patreon timetable. (I just don't remember exactly what I have planned.)
Thank you very much for that film because I was always confused: does that Amber Accord of Wanilin and labdanum ( and other resins such as benzoin)literally is based upon the fossilized resin or rather ambergris? So there are two kinds of Amber and this concept of the real resin really exist :) Some say it's a translation error ;) Thank you!
Vanillin + Labdanum is said to resemble the aroma of "ambre jaune" yellow amber, from the tree resin.
"Ambre gris" grey amber, is evoked by the ambrox style molecules.
Both can be used in the same perfumes.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 You lightened my darkness :) ! Thank you ❤️
So many that I haven't tried, but I'm still in the process of eradicating my mental aversion to the label. Would be very interesting to do a medical retrospective study to find out just how many people became more sensitive to at least a selcet few after recovering from post-2020 viral anosmia. I struggle to believe that I'm the only one who became a woody amber-sniffer dog only a few short weeks after. 🤣 But I had no idea you made a Lynx frag Sarah!! Love the erlenmeyer bottle. 😍 Is it possible that we have you to thank for the original Mugler-esque Dark Temptation? Still one of the best deodorants to use with gourmands.
Goodness me, I didn't make the Lynx! Their perfumers did. I just took part in an elaborate research project long before I had ever started to make my own perfume. There's no way in a million years I would be asked to do the job of a corporate perfumer working in the industry. I just told them what I wanted, and they sent it to me a few weeks later. Honoured that you would think this could happen, but equally mortified that I have given that impression.
I am also really distracted by Woody Amber materials in a frag. It's a note that takes over completely in a composition -if it's used tastelessly, as it typically is. I blame all the reviewers complaining about the "Projection" and "Longevity" of every single classy and artful fragrance. Kali Yuga, what can you do.
@mandarinmelon This! It’s so heartbreaking when people reviewing fragrances talk only about compliments, projection and cost… what happened to appreciation of beauty?
@@chernyylebed2050 I'm with both of you on this.
That tacky Facebook man is not very bright for sure! Your bottles are great and crescent moon logo design is so chic!
Thank you.
I confess that I love cedramber and use it in all fragrances...
I'm with you all the way.
wow nice video
Thank you. 💚
Informative as always! Thank you.
Sandalore is great! So comforting and rich without being heavy. Speaking of sandalwood, can you please share with us your opinion on Javanol in your future films? It’s hard to get to where I’m from, so I wanted to ask guru first💛
Hi, I know your question is to madam Sara, but I will still go ahead and share my experience with Javanol. For perspective, I am incense maker and I use compounds for burning applications. Initially when I smelled Javanol @100%, I could smell nothing. Only once it is used in a blend at lower than 0.5%, it starts to show its character. To me, it is very heavy, dairy cream, buttery, velvety, soft, woody, slightly rosy and sweet molecule. It is very very diffusive. It has amazing result in my incense application. Basically, if you want a heavy beta-santalol character, then you should go for Javanol. But for 1:1 sandalwood, you can go for Dreamwood base. You can enhance the sandalwood base significantly by adding some Polysantol, and Javanol. Then there are other compounds like Bacdanol, Brahmanol, SMC, etc
@alokpandey9532 Thank you! 🙏
Sorry I missed this earlier and thanks @alokpandey9532. I like Javanol but never enough to add it to my collection and as it has biodegradability issues I'm probably not going to start now.
Sarah, if it's alright, I'd love to add the suggestion to make a video on workhorse perfume bases. 😊
Like Rose Givco, Tabarome and Cassis Base345b kind of bases?
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I meant Iso E Super (or similar), Hedione (or similar), and white musks (like Ethylene Brassylate, Galaxolide, Habanolide, etc), and then Ambroxan (or similar).
(And not necessarily just one mat, either. Like, it could be many musks, and it could be many ambergris-style materials.)
@JayMannStuff right! They aren't usually called bases. They can be called base materials. I have made many films on those already, but I could try to find some for you.
Hi madam Sarah, very good topic and very informative discussion. Please do cover Amber Xtreme, Z10/Z11 sometime in future. Regarding Cypriol, I never thought that it could be used for woody ambery Accords. To me, it smells spicy woody.
I probably won't cover Z10/Z11 as I don't buy them. Cypriol is in the woody planet that I added to make the wood amber accord interesting. I usually find popular woody ambers quite dull, just strong and invasive.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 okay, very interesting perspective. I will try Cypriol.
Thank you for another interesting video! I just adore you both and all your informative content..I long to be part of the perfume world.. little old me with my bottles of oils and head full of dreams...🩵
That's exactly where I was 14 years ago and now I'd quite like to retire and spend all day playing baritone sax and writing books with fountain pens.
I need to buy a masculine formula and study it. I'm having a hard time making masculine frags.
There's no need to buy copies of other people's formulas; they are never quite right. Make what I make in the film, then you have it free.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I will do just that. Thank you
Very interesting! Did you say 15% ISO E Super in ethanol? Why such an odd number? Any reason for this? ☺️ Or is it 50%? That's how I hold it.
Yes, I said 15%. Technically it is an odd number in that it isn't an even number, but it's perfectly reasonable to have Iso E Super at 15% and not at all unusual. I also have it at 100% strength for blending the concentrate, but for blending an eau de parfum 15% is just right. I have it at 20% too, and at 10% for different experiments.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 interesting! Thank you. As I was a beginner a year ago, it's really fun to see how I diluted everything to 50% and 20% and thought it was just weak. But nose got better and better, and now, often, even 10% seems to much for me regardless of the material. Depends though, I know 😌
@@GO2CUT Jean-Claude Ellena has 10% as standard and varies from there. The myth about fragrances being "better" when they are more concentrated is just a myth.
Arthur, one can never grow up to dislike ambers... Sarah needs to perform an exorcism I think, probably while using some nice amber blend 🧐
Wait, what's that!
What's what? 🤷🏻♀️
Woody ambers. Boy have I bought quite a few always thinking they will smell quite different from each other but nope most tend to smell the same, lol. The worst part is that if I did a little research before hand I would realize that they are the same with different names 😂 karmawood/norlimbinal 🫣
I always enjoy both of you conversing as you’re witty and Arthur’s funny. ❤
Manufacturers all want one of their own because they sell well. It's a bit like going to a superhero movie hoping it will have a completely different story.