I recently acquired a DP-EC1 which was very TOTL in 1976. It is very smooth and sleek (and weighs 40lbs)! I am having an intermittent type of issue similar to this video except when the START button is pressed, the tonearm lifts but does not move to cue. I "reseated" the platter and rubber (made sure to align the holes) and it started working again...until about 4 hours later where it stopped working. When I press start and the tonearm lifts, if I move it over that spot on track 1, it drops on its own. Watching this gave me a better understanding of the process of the LED's and how that plate works. Thank you! I was thinking if I mess with the plate, I would want to place some sort of mark(s) to show where the plate started at.
also like to add I have watched this vid several times and it gave me the courage to work on my 1985 onkyo cp-1055f2 direct drive fully auto computer controled two motor system ,2015 the tone arm stopped lifting and cueing up and would not move over to the start of record was always afraid to look at it and see what 's going on I finally after watching this vid and working on my other turntables I decided to look at the motor that drives the tone arm and cueing I finally figured out the cause it was or is a little small gear plastic that at first glance it looked alright then I started looking at the rest of linkages and saw a piece of broken plastic and found it to be a small gear that operates the tone arm function and cueing ,it was broken found a seller with replacement its a 3 D replacement of gear ordred it it will be arriving soon so as you always do I never oiled the spindle bearing of the direct drive so I decided to take it apart and clean and oil it ,it was pretty easy it was hard to put back in cause of the tightness of bearing after oiling it it took a while to finally sink back down so after years of no confidence finally year 2024 will hopefully be the year this onkyo gets back to playing records again thank you !!!!!!!!! JRo
Hi! Great video! I love those Mitsubishis/Diatone turntables and systems! I think that one of mine (ITT8015 OEM Mitsubishi DP EC20) have more or less the same problems. Your video is pushing me to try and do it myself , but I have never done anything like this..:) Anyway great analysis and troubleshooting! Respect!
I have two ITT 8015 and one Mitsubishi DP-EC8. They are similar, but different though. The mechanics in ITT 8015 is much more complex, but function wise it is the same.
@@PhonoDirect interesting! I have one dp ec20 and one itt8015… I think that they supposed to be the same. As I have absolutely no experience, I think i won’t try to fix it alone. Maybe just to check the tonearm’s belts, but soldering leds and resistors will probably lead to more damage ;)
@@PhonoDirect so I opened it, and saw that two belts are dead (L R). One turned into ugly goo, really difficult to clean without disassemble the unit. It is different than the EC8 indeed, it has different direction of the motor and needs two belts for one motor….
I like watching your vids cause you show a lot of different turntables like this Mitsubishi never saw one like it before and always considered mitsuboshi a high end brand I love looking at different turntables I like to see how they look and how differently they operate JRo
The EC-8 - and the LT5 or LT-20 in some countries - are the last turntables Mitsubishi produced in 1981. While they were not cheap,they certainly are good value . My bet is Micro Seiki designed the tone arm for it. Well,the lightweight construction of it is out of fashion nowadays,so it works best with high compliance MM cartridges which were the thing when this deck hit the shelves. Original it came with a Audio Technica MM,which the owner of this turntable replaced with a better Ortofon MM. Imho a good choice.
The Japanese were not especially transparent regarding the OEM background of their consumer electronics, to say the least. I have been repairing turntables for years and for year I have been looking for a proof or clue, like some shared parts etc. that would prove Mitsubishi was made by Micro Seiki, but none so far. Seems like this niche player in the turntable market really made those in-house. What amazes me even more is the variability of the mechanical and electrical designs inside otherwise related and function wise similar turntables from Mitsubishi and its clones Realistic Lab and ITT 8012, 8103 and 8015. OEMs like Micro and C.E.C. just repeatedly used the very same underpinnings with only a slight modifications in their OEMs.
@@PhonoDirect Well,not the entire turntable was made by Micro,thats for sure. But Micro often just did the tonearm,like in many top class yamaha turntables. It was a question of who had the know how,the production capacity and lower cost than in house.
I have 2 Mitsubishi direct turntables with seized bearings. The motors are unobtainable. How or what can be done to make the motor work again? Don’t think the motor can be disassembled.
Did you post eventually somewhere online your instructions regarding the switching from the lamps to the LEDs and the resistors? Thank you very much again! Merry Christmas from Berlin!
@@TurntableGuy Thank you very much! The only parameters for the LED is yellow color and 3mm? Did you have to solder everything? I didn’t understand what you did with the three power cables and the red tape. Thank you for your time and sorry if I’m annoying you with these basic questions. Cheers!
@@GR-hl4gk I would use clear or yellow LED. Put a resistor inline on each supply wire (it doesn't matter where you put it as long as the power goes through the resistor before it goes to the LED). The red tape is just shrink-wrap.
I have a DP 15 I picked up really cheap here in Canada. Got a new belt and it works and plays. 2 issues. Stop button does not seem to work it continually spins. Can you help?
Do you know what size and type of belt you used for the tone arm motors? I just picked one of these turn tables up and I want to be ready with replaceable parts just in case
@@TurntableGuy but they were square belts correct? I’m hoping to be able to find something equivalent. I have the original part number but it doesn’t really seem to be much help. Thanks for the video though! I’m sure it will come in handy
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I recently acquired a DP-EC1 which was very TOTL in 1976. It is very smooth and sleek (and weighs 40lbs)!
I am having an intermittent type of issue similar to this video except when the START button is pressed, the tonearm lifts but does not move to cue. I "reseated" the platter and rubber (made sure to align the holes) and it started working again...until about 4 hours later where it stopped working. When I press start and the tonearm lifts, if I move it over that spot on track 1, it drops on its own.
Watching this gave me a better understanding of the process of the LED's and how that plate works. Thank you! I was thinking if I mess with the plate, I would want to place some sort of mark(s) to show where the plate started at.
also like to add I have watched this vid several times and it gave me the courage to work on my 1985 onkyo cp-1055f2 direct drive fully auto computer controled two motor system ,2015 the tone arm stopped lifting and cueing up and would not move over to the start of record was always afraid to look at it and see what 's going on I finally after watching this vid and working on my other turntables I decided to look at the motor that drives the tone arm and cueing I finally figured out the cause it was or is a little small gear plastic that at first glance it looked alright then I started looking at the rest of linkages and saw a piece of broken plastic and found it to be a small gear that operates the tone arm function and cueing ,it was broken found a seller with replacement its a 3 D replacement of gear ordred it it will be arriving soon so as you always do I never oiled the spindle bearing of the direct drive so I decided to take it apart and clean and oil it ,it was pretty easy it was hard to put back in cause of the tightness of bearing after oiling it it took a while to finally sink back down so after years of no confidence finally year 2024 will hopefully be the year this onkyo gets back to playing records again thank you !!!!!!!!! JRo
Interesting video to see something different, but enjoyable to see how the fix was diagnosed and achieved.
Hi! Great video!
I love those Mitsubishis/Diatone turntables and systems! I think that one of mine (ITT8015 OEM Mitsubishi DP EC20) have more or less the same problems. Your video is pushing me to try and do it myself , but I have never done anything like this..:)
Anyway great analysis and troubleshooting!
Respect!
I have two ITT 8015 and one Mitsubishi DP-EC8. They are similar, but different though. The mechanics in ITT 8015 is much more complex, but function wise it is the same.
@@PhonoDirect interesting! I have one dp ec20 and one itt8015… I think that they supposed to be the same. As I have absolutely no experience, I think i won’t try to fix it alone. Maybe just to check the tonearm’s belts, but soldering leds and resistors will probably lead to more damage ;)
@@PhonoDirect so I opened it, and saw that two belts are dead (L R). One turned into ugly goo, really difficult to clean without disassemble the unit. It is different than the EC8 indeed, it has different direction of the motor and needs two belts for one motor….
So I managed to replace the belts! :)
I can’t even start with the lamps… we’ll see. Thank you again for the video,
Another good one. May I suggest looking for the service manual, right from the start? Could save you some trouble.
Worked like a charm thanks again .
Cool.
I like watching your vids cause you show a lot of different turntables like this Mitsubishi never saw one like it before and always considered mitsuboshi a high end brand I love looking at different turntables I like to see how they look and how differently they operate JRo
This as well the Mits linear tracking TTs were well built units. I have a LT-22 which is a very nice TT.
The stiff arm is normal. Use the play button to advance to the next track. Keep pressing play. It’s feature of the table
The EC-8 - and the LT5 or LT-20 in some countries - are the last turntables Mitsubishi produced in 1981.
While they were not cheap,they certainly are good value . My bet is Micro Seiki designed the tone arm for
it. Well,the lightweight construction of it is out of fashion nowadays,so it works best with high compliance
MM cartridges which were the thing when this deck hit the shelves.
Original it came with a Audio Technica MM,which the owner of this turntable replaced with a better Ortofon
MM. Imho a good choice.
The Japanese were not especially transparent regarding the OEM background of their consumer electronics, to say the least. I have been repairing turntables for years and for year I have been looking for a proof or clue, like some shared parts etc. that would prove Mitsubishi was made by Micro Seiki, but none so far. Seems like this niche player in the turntable market really made those in-house. What amazes me even more is the variability of the mechanical and electrical designs inside otherwise related and function wise similar turntables from Mitsubishi and its clones Realistic Lab and ITT 8012, 8103 and 8015. OEMs like Micro and C.E.C. just repeatedly used the very same underpinnings with only a slight modifications in their OEMs.
@@PhonoDirect Well,not the entire turntable was made by Micro,thats for sure. But Micro often just did the tonearm,like in many top
class yamaha turntables. It was a question of who had the know how,the production capacity and lower cost than in house.
Thank you just got one from flea Mkt doing same thing I will try to fix thanx to you
Thinking of buying one for 130$,looks nice,ortofon cartridge...
I have 2 Mitsubishi direct turntables with seized bearings. The motors are unobtainable. How or what can be done to make the motor work again? Don’t think the motor can be disassembled.
Hi TG. Where are you located in Canada. Im in Edmonton.
London, ON
Did you post eventually somewhere online your instructions regarding the switching from the lamps to the LEDs and the resistors? Thank you very much again! Merry Christmas from Berlin!
No, but just use a 3mm LED and put a 1.8 kilo-ohm resistor on the anode. Merry Christmas from Canada!
@@TurntableGuy Thank you very much! The only parameters for the LED is yellow color and 3mm? Did you have to solder everything? I didn’t understand what you did with the three power cables and the red tape. Thank you for your time and sorry if I’m annoying you with these basic questions. Cheers!
@@GR-hl4gk I would use clear or yellow LED. Put a resistor inline on each supply wire (it doesn't matter where you put it as long as the power goes through the resistor before it goes to the LED). The red tape is just shrink-wrap.
this is cool to see something different than normal lol...
I have a DP 15 I picked up really cheap here in Canada. Got a new belt and it works and plays. 2 issues. Stop button does not seem to work it continually spins. Can you help?
Do you know what size and type of belt you used for the tone arm motors? I just picked one of these turn tables up and I want to be ready with replaceable parts just in case
I did not change them as I didn't have something in stock that fit right.
@@TurntableGuy but they were square belts correct? I’m hoping to be able to find something equivalent. I have the original part number but it doesn’t really seem to be much help. Thanks for the video though! I’m sure it will come in handy
@@sweeps010 Yes, they were square belts.
I have this same turntable. I can’t seem to get it fixed . Would you be interested in doing it ?
Some tech’s say the check the optical sensor for the record size.
Very hard to watch zoomed out so far