This seems by far the best system. No flickering lights over the points, and the colour and brightness seems very realistic... thanks! I hope to use this system for 4 wheel and 6 wheel coaches.
Thanks Douglas - that's definitely where the advantage lies. In hind-sight I wish I had mounted the battery holders underneath on the outside. Might get round to altering this one day. Good luck with your coaches 👍👍👍
Thanks David - another good instructional video. I havn't noticed these lights on Layouts4U stand before and I am a regular customer! I like the idea of battery operated and being able to switch on and off without taking the coach off the track. Also, although I have a DCC layout, using a battery eliminates the occasional flicker that might occur as the wheel run over a dirty bit of track. It also eliminates any potential drag one might get when putting pick ups on the wheel sets. Thanks once again.
Hi Brian - me neither - but they are featured as 'new' on their website i believe. All the points you mentioned are exactly those that won me over to these battery operated ones (just hope the batteries last a long time). Thanks for your comments, much appreciated - David
Seen several of your layout/rolling stock and dinky restoration videos: All brilliant and so well narrated with no background music. I have a large collection of hornby railway from the end of steam and green to blue BR on double O and super 4 track plus a few on system 6. Looking forward to having space to build a layout in the next 1 months. All my collection moved from UK to NZ in 2008 and has since remained remained stored. Thanks for your honest videos, my hands shake as much when soldering as well !! Must be getting old !!
Thanks Marc, appreciate the comments. I have always had a slight shake in my hands, but It is getting worse as I get older. Determined not to let it spoil my love of painting and model making though. Appears to be another vote for not having background music - I am taking note of this as I am unsure weather to continue with it or not - thanks ... David
Thanks Adam - must admit, I can't resist these virtual 'tweaks' when I put out a video, after all the sky changes all the time In the real world. Glad you like it - David
Haven't checked in since January '18, but happy to see you are still at it and making various imprivements to your layout, running schedules, and passenger coach lighting. Very eager to see your next installment on filling the gaps between those same coaches. Best Regards from the USA, Stokes
Hi Stokes, apologies for delay, busy with work recently. I am looking forward to getting back to my railway shortly. Many thanks for your comments, truly appreciated .. David
David, many thank for all the interesting and pleasurable videos. I love model railroading, but have never had the room or the time to get one set up and design and finish. I hope you are doing well.
David, your layout and the running schedules are wonderful! I have not checked in for about nine months, but have just enjoyed (this Friday morning) catching up with all of your updates since January 2018. Great stuff. I am a wargamer myself (roughly 1/60-1/56, or 25-30mm as we say in wargamer speak), but model railways have always fascinated me. Yours is one of the best I've seen. Well done, and I'm eager to see where you head with your layout next.
Hi David lovely video what simple & easy way to light your coaches thanks for doing an how to video. I will be looking at getting some for my coaches when I am ready. Kind Regards George..
Hi David, Thanks for sharing this fine tutorial video. I've just bought a rake of Bachmann MK1 crimson and cream coaches and would like to proceed with a similar instalment of lights. Question: How long do these batteries last ? I was thinking of putting the batterie somewhere in the underframe for easy access. Thanks for sharing your expertise & greetings. Filip
David Hyde, Your tutorial on fitting lights to a oo coach was very well explained, however I failed to see where the battery holder ended up, and would you be able to change the battery easily? regards Thornton McLaughlan.
Hi Thornton. I have stored the batteries at one end of each coach. There is a gap where the seats end. Not brilliant, as it turned out, because, although the coach body can be unclipped, it is quite fiddly. The batteries could be fitted outside under the centre of each coach (perhaps a plasticard box made to measure). It is still a good solution as it does not rely on pick-up from the track.
Thanks - good question. Simply answered - I don't know how long the battery lasts. The current drain from the LEDs is small so I am expecting a 'good' operating battery life time. Like everything I suppose it depends on how often and for how long they are run with the lights on. I plan to run them mostly during daytime so mostly they will be off. However, in terms of hours per battery I can't answer. Replacing the batteries is no problem, you just unclip the body and replace the battery in the holder - David
Great video on coach lighting - tyhanks. I have ten to fit with lighting, both Hornby and Bachmann. Where can i purchase the lighting installation kits please? Regards, David Blincow
Hi David I would be interested to know after the last 6 months how you have found that the battery life on these lights. Looking forward very much to your coach video on closing the gap.
Hi Johnny, apologies for the delay in reply. I am ashamed to say I have not done much modelling in the last 6 months. We have had other commitments and a couple of longish breaks enjoying the weather this summer so my railway has taken a back seat for the moment. However I am about to make an update video and show what I have managed to do. Thanks for you interest ... David
Hi David.....great video for a novice like myself.....will certainly be doing this to enhance my coaches. Question from the inexperienced...if I have another reed switch in my layout for example a station stop module....would that reed switch interfere with the lights also meaning the lights would continuously be switched on and off on each circuit of the layout ?
Thanks for the comment John. Not sure I can answer your question. I am not great with electronics but I think you are asking if another reed switch would effect the coach lighting - the answer is no. The coaches do not depend on electricity from the track - each has it's own battery. Hope this answer is O.K. ... David
@@davidhyde4329 Thanks David...answer is fine....even if it did I would hope a magnet fitted underneath (station stop module) and a magnet fitted in the roof (coach lighting) would not be problematic...many thanks...I will fit coach lighting with some confidence after seeing your video
Very good David. Might be worth swapping those coach wheels for metal ones anyway as plastic ones degrade and make your track nice and dirty over time. Thanks for sharing.
Many thanks Mark. Good point about the wheels. I will keep an eye on them. I am not sure they are plastic to be fair. All I know is they don't conduct electricity, and they are not like the plastic wheels on older stock. Perhaps someone knows for sure. Many thanks for the tip - David
Hi. Because my railway is an out-&-back shelf style layout I do not run my coaches in a loop and therefore the batteries are lasting very well with my because I am still using the same batteries. I guess you would need an electronics guy to tell you how long the battery would last when continuously powering the number of leds in each coach (this could vary depending on the coach). However I think it was a mistake to place the batteries inside the coaches. I have had to change one or two batteries where, I think, I have accidentally left the the lights on, or accidentally switched them on in storage. Although it is possible to remove the coach bodies they are held in place with small plastic clips (at least my Hornby ones are) and they have proved easy to break and impossible to repair. I still think the system is a good one but I am refitting the battery holder under the chassis to make changing easier. Apologies for the delay in response - I hope this helps ... David
Hi David, great video - thanks for sharing! I’d be very interested to see a video of how you retrofit the battery cases to the chassis as I too am concerned about the fragility of the coach bodies. Thanks for taking the time to do these - invaluable!
Very interesting David! My dad and I are very interested in the prospect of your carriage lighting. Very smart concept and might have to look at this system for my own needs. All the best with the layout and overall operation. Cheers Caleb
Hi Caleb, I agree, a very smart concept. I have been delayed (pressure of work) at the moment but I will get around to another video on these lights. Good luck, It's nice to hear you and your dad are interested in railway modelling, all the best with your layout too. Regards .. David
Very interesting David. Thanks for sharing this. Off to the workshop to see how easy / difficult it will be to make one in N. The reed switch idea is brilliant as I have an exhibition layout with a very large fiddle yard. Positioning reed switches at the entrance and exit tracks to and from the scenic part of the layout appeals enormously. Cheers, Bob
Hi, thanks for your comments. The music I use comes from a copyright free source recommended by youtube. I downloaded it from audionautix.com and it is called 'Greenleaves' Hope this helps ... David
Hi David, Good looking lighting kits and simple to fit and operate. I was at the East Anglian show last Saturday it is only a couple of miles from the Hemingfords village where I live. Shame it won't be there next year. Are you close by? ...............John
Hi John. Yes I am - I live in St.Ives. Perhaps we could meet up over a pint. Hopefully next year is just a change of venue and it won't be too far away. Thanks again for your comments - David
Well David, what a small world! We have been communicating on RUclips for about two years and had no idea that we live that close. It would be great to meet and have a good chat about all things railway. May I suggest that you come to Hemingford Grey and you can then see first hand the rather untidy mess that I call my Railway Room. You can contact me by email to avoid braodcasting too much about our exact locations! I am at gricer5mt@gmail.com ............................John
Hello John. I know, it's amazing, Graham from Lakeside also lives nearby too, although I have never met him. Thanks very much for the offer, I would love to see your railway room. Its comforting to know yours is messy too. I will contact you by email. I am off to work shortly, I will email you later today - David
OK David, I will look out for your email. I actually know Graham and have been lucky enough to meet him and his lady wife and to see Lakeside for real and it is an excellent piece of modelling. ...............John
Hi John, no, I fitted the battery holder to th inside of each coach. However, if I were to do it again I would definately fit the holder outside - underneath the coach where it would nor show. This, or fit a couple of smaller 1.5v button batteries (easier to hide) under the coaches - hope this helps ... David
@@davidhyde4329 Hi David. Thanks for the reply. I'm going to change the wheels for metal ones from Peter's Spares which are insulated at one end. I'll fit some springs to the axel and take power from the track. I think changing the batteries is a bit fiddly. I've ordered the parts for the lighting from Layouts4u and the rest from Peter's Spares. It will be a few weeks before its completed as I'm going away next week. By the way where did you get the concertina type connectors for between the coaches from? They look great. John
Nice video David, An interesting way of doing lighting without the hassle for sure. If you wanted to get a little more technical you could have a simple bit of wood with a magnet (or electromagnet for switch operation) over the entrance/exit to the fiddleyard so that the lighting could be a little more automated? Cheers, Michael
Hi Michael, thanks for your comments. You could indeed, I have thought of that, and i might well set op a gantry on the entry/exit from my fiddle yard. It will be hinged/swiveled so the magnets can be turned out of use during day running. Fully automated coach lighting for pennies, not bad - David
Excellent neat approach. Just wondering whether some heat shrink tube might be useful to cover the exposed leads. When I added lighting to my DMU set I used diodes to restrict the head and tail lights to the approriate direction - but that had a track pick up which you don't have. I occurs to me that the rotation sensors used for mouse wheels might have an application here but that could be getting too complicated to develop for a one-off installation.
Hi, thanks very much. I would certainly use heat shrink tube if I chose not to glue the wires in place. They are not going to move so there should not be a problem. (I know - famous last words). Thanks for the thoughts on the DMU. I have one I am planning to fit with this lighting. Although it has track pic-ups I am considering fitting these lights, they are flicker free and constantly either on or off. Don't understand enough to see how mouse wheels would work, but I am open to all suggestions. I will be doing a video on, or including my DMU sometime in the near future - David
Hi David, thanks for the prompt response. A further thought on the DMU - At the time when I did mine (1982) there was a much smaller range of LEDs available and I had to use 5mm ones, which were obviously too big for the DMU ends. I put the LEDs into the 'battery box' and used a system of light pipes to illuminate the headlamps / taillamps. That was in the days when Maplin was still a viable catalogue business and I found some single-strand fibre optic cable 1mm diameter complete with a black sheathing. I drilled a very shallow 1mm hole in the apex of the LED, just deep enough to retain the F-O cable and glued it in. The outer ends of the light pipes were then fitted into appropiate holes in the body of the DMU. I suspect that the modern variety of LEDs would make this unnecessary. To reduce flicker you can put a capacitor into the circuit - again the Maplin catalogue was very helpful with the necessary info.
Returning to motion sensors, I found an excellent explanation of how a mouse wheel works (www.explainthatstuff.com/computermouse.html) but I was only using the mouse wheel as a common example of the concept. It is one of the major attractions of railway modelling that it generates an interest in other aspects of life, one of which is photography, another is electronics. I was thinking that something like a miniature ABS sensor could be mounted on the bogie with markings on the inward face of the wheel to give an indication of direction (and speed - do you want a speedometer on your control panel?) and thereby change the aspect of the lights. Of course this is moving a long away from your 'keep it simple' approach that is so successful and entertaining. BTW, have you seen Luke Towan's posts on how he prepares scenery?
Great Ideat. many thanks. I understand your lighting for a DC layout (1982) but, as I understand the supply through the track is AC so I would probably need a rectifier of some kind. But it is still doable I am sure. Like the use of the 'battery box' , would probably still need to use optic fibers - I am sure I have some tucked away. I will give this some serious thought. It would be good to go the whole hog with interior lights and headlamps & tail-lamps - David
Thanks for the link, very interesting explanation. Not something i have thought about before. I think, given my limited brain capacity, I will keep things simple for the time being. Yes I have been following Luke Towan for a long time and watched many of his excellent videos - quite an inspirartion - David
I've never done any Soldering (long, painful story,) so this excellent Video has helped me on the way. I think I've watched it a dozen times now :-) I wanted lights on a rather large static diorama with no current in the Rails, so these Kits are wonderful. I can't help but wonder whether ONE Battery would power more than one strip of lights though. Even so, these lights can be used anywhere... e.g. building interiors AND exteriors. Great possibilities and at a remarkably small price.
Hi Mike. I agree, they have great possibilities. I have fitted a couple in buildings that hide point motors. If I have a problem with them I can remove the buildings without having to disconnect the wiring. There is no reason why you could not connect more than lighting strip but it will drain the battery quicker (assuming you have them on at the same time). Thanks for your kind comments .. David
Thanks for your reply David… When (or if) I get my little Project together, I do not expect it to be illuminated for any great lengths of time. I don’t know the Life-Expectancy of a 3V Battery running these little LEDs, so I had a mind to fit one to run two Carriages so I’d have back-up Batteries just in case. Failing that, I thought I’d try to fit the Battery casings outside and underneath the Carriages to make exchanging them simple, without the need to disassemble them. It’s just a static diorama, so that option would all be invisible and obviously not impede it in any way. My plan is also to have a floodlit central Building, with some dimmer interior lighting. It all sounds so simple, except that it grew from an idea to have a full wrap-around Back Scene of a City at night time. How to actually light THAT is a bit problematic for a dark room I suppose. Perhaps I’ll use a Twilight setting.
Sounds good to me Mike. I think you are right, I would expect that most people operate their layouts mainly in 'daytime'. Its nice every now and then to run at 'night' with the layout lit up. I too don't know how long the 3v batteries will last but as I only infrequently operate with the lights on I would hope the batteries last a while. We will see !! Thanks again for your comments, good luck with your project, hope you get it off the ground .. David
Hi, thanks. I bought them at the EA Model railway show from Layouts4U, they have website and a shop in March, Cambridgeshire - www.layouts4u.net/coachlighting.html
Hi Warren. I am still here - my last video took a while took a while make and I have been busier with work this year - so much for a quiet retirement!! My railway is in a spare room in the 'atttic' space of our chalet bungalow I have had a couple of months doing nothing on my railway as it gets too hot up there. Now the weather has cooled I will get an update video out as soon as i can .. regards .. David
Oh that is good and since it was in your attic I understand. We have had a heat wave over here in the U.S. too so I can so I can see why you would not want to be up there. I can not wait for your next video, best regards Warren Lehmkuhle.
Nice one Bud. Enjoyed the vid and learnt a lot, thanks for that. However, I was surprised that you didn't take the opportunity to put some passengers in, which would have finished off the effect. Maybe your intending to do that later, either way, great vid and look forward to more from you. Thanks.
Hi Marie, the small flat batteries are fitted inside, at the end of the coach. I used a windowless compartment where I could to hide the battery. I suppose it depends on the coaches you have. Theye were designed to fit inside the coaches but I gues they could easily be fitted underneath with a bit of enginuity - Thanks for the question ... David
Thank you so much for the wonderful tutorial, my apologies if this was already answered however, what kind of lighting did you use in your layout to achieve that “night” look? Thank you so much!
Apologies for lateness of response - you have probably worked it out by now 😊. I made a scenic mask for the night sky added in post-production . The room lighting was adjusted so that the coach and platform lights were brighter. Camera on a tripod to shoot stills and video. Probably too late for you - hope this helps. Apologies again 👍👍👍
I would defiantly recommend this lighting system 101%. I have just installed 4 LED lighting strips into 2 of my Hornby 2BIL units, It is very good friction free and flicker free system. The only modification that I did to the lighting strip was to add a 330 ohm resistor in series with the battery and LED's. This reduced the brightness of the LED's to a more realistic level in the coaches and also reduced the glow through the thin plastic sides of the 2 BIL units. At the same time I took the opportunity to file out and install another LED to light up the front head code panel. The only down side to this lighting system is the need now to paint the interiors and seats, as these items can now be seen more clearly thanks to the interior lighting. I have read that Hornby are marketing a carriage lighting strip containing 4 LED's that they say will run for 200 hours on1 battery, so assuming 3 times the current draw for the12 LED's of the Layouts4U lighting strip, it should last for approx 66 hours on 1 battery.
Hi Anthony. They come on self adhesive strips. Even if you buy the strips online they are on self-adhesive rolls. If, by any chance, you have some that are not, then I would suggest PVA adhesive - hope this helps ... David
David, these look beautiful! Well done to layouts4u getting this kit together. Although this method gets around all the hassle of power pickup, my only concern would be vis-a-vis the batteries. They have to be accessible without taking the coach apart each time and of course generating a steady stream of used CR2032s is not all that eco-friendly :-) However, since the Cr2032 is rechargable, It should be possible to bring out some unobtrusive connection points on the underside of the coach and set up some place on the layout where coaches can connect to a set of charging points (for example equipped with a set of Adafruit 1304 charger boards which run from any USB outlet). www.adafruit.com/product/1304 - the batteries would still need replacing as a charge-fullydrain-charge style of usage does shorten their lives - but depending on usage it's a fair guess that they could last a couple of years. I;ve known 2032s last for more than 15 years in a PC that is always powered on, but much less in a PC that is turned off every night - which is much more similar to this usage. Mounting the reeds in the roof is a good scheme, and electromagnets hidden in tunnel mouths or gantries could be the activation method - though of course on a tail-chasing layout there would be a danger of the lights alternating between on and off at each circuit!
Hi. Yes the battery changing is more of a chore than I expected. I am looking at mounting the batteries underneath each coach. I thin the charger is for LI (Lithium Iron) batteries. There seems to be a supply/restiction issue when I searched. Will keep it in mind though - thanks ... David
Hi Andrew. Yes, you are right. I am doing that now. My next update will show some passengers added. I have seated 30 in a 2 car DMU which I am currently updating updating - David
Hi Davie, ahh - I thought someone would ask about the passengers. I have not tackled figures with any seriousness yet. The time will come however and I will now have to give some thought to seated passengers. Thanks for your comments. Yes the lights being 3V and not 12V are not overly bright at all - David
Hi David, I can recommend the cheap Chinese/Far East seated figures for interior applications. I wouldn't necessarily use them for the foreground, but I use them all the time in vehicles and rolling stock where they can't be seen that clearly. Some of the more gaudy colours need over painting but otherwise they can just go in as is. Cheers, Davie
Well shant be wasting any money on Hornbys maglight kits, since discovering these! I will just use a 3m length of LED roll and cut to length to a Mk3. Still cheaper! Keep up the excellent work!
Hi Antony - I fix the magnetic reed switches centrally under the roof. Easy then to switch on and off by passing magnet over the top of the coaches ... David
Would it give more realism? What about coaches standing in carriage sidings - it would look decidedly odd. I take your point however, and i will be looking more closely at the little people in later videos - David
Looks good, but I don't like the idea of taking the coaches apart again when the batteries die. I think pickup from the rails is preferable, but I do like the magnetic reed switch, so this combination would be ideal.
Hi Ray. Yes, I can see that. Changing the batteries is the only down side. Using the magnetic reed switch with a lighting strip is a good idea particularly if you operate DC. I am no expert but I am thinking you would need some more components for DCC (rectifier, capacitor etc). If so, I would be interested in your circuit because I am toying with the idea of putting lights in my guards vans as well - David
Hi David I will be using DC so I am not familiar with DCC. However, these videos may help ruclips.net/video/4pms0JVxzQU/видео.html ruclips.net/video/w1DlEn7VIww/видео.html ruclips.net/video/W5UisXVR8oA/видео.html Regards Ray
Hello David. Sue & Bob at Layouts4U are truly nice people and will help as much as possible. Super people to deal with. You’re lucky getting the latching reed switch; they are quite rare, and I note they are now out of stock. This is a great solution and, as you have put them in the roof, they can be switched ‘semi-automatically, on and off, as they enter the scene, by placing a magnet in a tunnel or entrance to the scene. Ideal solution. Thanks for the update. Very useful.
Hi Bobby, they were indeed, friendly and helpful. I noticed they are offering the Latching Reed Switches on their website for £3 a pop - but they are currently out of stock. I will be buying some as i can see other uses for them on my railway. You are right about the automatic aspect. I rigged up a temporary 'gantry' and they worked perfectly - perhaps I will add this in my next update on the subject - David
Yes there is Richard. O.K. if you have a tail-chaser layout but a little more problematic with an out and back, because the last coach to enter the scene is the first one to leave it. You would need one at each end of the train and then you would need to switch them round (like loco lights). Not impossible but this has put me off for the time being. Thanks anyway, I may well look at this again - David
We are expecting a new delivery of latching reed switches on Thursday this week. Please keep an eye on the web site, as soon as they arrive we will put the coach lighting kits, and the latching reed switches back in stock. www.layouts4u.net/coachlighting.html
hi Sue, is the website stil active? I tried to purchase couple of items and it seems as if your I was not able to complete checkout, and neither has nobody replied to my e-mails and calls :((
That's a really helpful video to solve a tricky problem. Nice clear views of procedures and excellent instructions. Thanks so much for sharing!
This seems by far the best system. No flickering lights over the points, and the colour and brightness seems very realistic... thanks! I hope to use this system for 4 wheel and 6 wheel coaches.
Thanks Douglas - that's definitely where the advantage lies. In hind-sight I wish I had mounted the battery holders underneath on the outside. Might get round to altering this one day. Good luck with your coaches 👍👍👍
Thanks David - another good instructional video. I havn't noticed these lights on Layouts4U stand before and I am a regular customer! I like the idea of battery operated and being able to switch on and off without taking the coach off the track. Also, although I have a DCC layout, using a battery eliminates the occasional flicker that might occur as the wheel run over a dirty bit of track. It also eliminates any potential drag one might get when putting pick ups on the wheel sets. Thanks once again.
Hi Brian - me neither - but they are featured as 'new' on their website i believe. All the points you mentioned are exactly those that won me over to these battery operated ones (just hope the batteries last a long time). Thanks for your comments, much appreciated - David
Seen several of your layout/rolling stock and dinky restoration videos:
All brilliant and so well narrated with no background music.
I have a large collection of hornby railway from the end of steam and green to blue BR on double O and super 4 track plus a few on system 6.
Looking forward to having space to build a layout in the next 1 months. All my collection moved from UK to NZ in 2008 and has since remained remained stored.
Thanks for your honest videos, my hands shake as much when soldering as well !! Must be getting old !!
Thanks Marc, appreciate the comments. I have always had a slight shake in my hands, but It is getting worse as I get older. Determined not to let it spoil my love of painting and model making though. Appears to be another vote for not having background music - I am taking note of this as I am unsure weather to continue with it or not - thanks ... David
Yet again, I can’t help but admire the backgrounds you’ve used - superimposing the starry night sky is a stunning touch! Great video 👍🏻🙂
Thanks Adam - must admit, I can't resist these virtual 'tweaks' when I put out a video, after all the sky changes all the time In the real world. Glad you like it - David
Very neat - thanks for sharing and videoing too, much appreciated 👍😊
Haven't checked in since January '18, but happy to see you are still at it and making various imprivements to your layout, running schedules, and passenger coach lighting. Very eager to see your next installment on filling the gaps between those same coaches. Best Regards from the USA, Stokes
Hi Stokes, apologies for delay, busy with work recently. I am looking forward to getting back to my railway shortly. Many thanks for your comments, truly appreciated .. David
David, many thank for all the interesting and pleasurable videos. I love model railroading, but have never had the room or the time to get one set up and design and finish. I hope you are doing well.
Hi Richard, thanks for your kind comments. I know the problems. I am glad you are enjoying my videos .. David
David, your layout and the running schedules are wonderful! I have not checked in for about nine months, but have just enjoyed (this Friday morning) catching up with all of your updates since January 2018. Great stuff. I am a wargamer myself (roughly 1/60-1/56, or 25-30mm as we say in wargamer speak), but model railways have always fascinated me. Yours is one of the best I've seen. Well done, and I'm eager to see where you head with your layout next.
Hi, many thanks for your comments - truly appreciated - David
Brilliant video David, thanks for doing it. Most helpful,
Many thanks Trevor, much appreciated - David
Will definately be adding these to my autocoach, they look amazing.
Hi David lovely video what simple & easy way to light your coaches thanks for doing an how to video. I will be looking at getting some for my coaches when I am ready. Kind Regards George..
Hi George, Many thanks, much appreciated. - David
Like all good ideas simple. Look forward to the next video.
Thanks Barry, I like simple, appreciate the comment - David
Great Video. How long does the provided battery last?
Cheer's David That's what I like keeping it simple. great tuition video. best regards Tony
Many thanks Tony, much appreciated. Simple is good for me, glad you liked it - David
Where'd you get that magnet from, looks neat!
Really good bit of kit, well worth the effort.Richard
Thanks Richard. I am trying to think of other uses for them - David
Brilliant! Thanks for that. Love the backdrop at the start too - I had to do a double take.
Many thanks Kris, glad you liked it - David
What a great development with a good quality video too. Thanks David, Regards Charlie
Yet again David another great video looking forward to more
Many thanks, much appreciated - David
Hi David, Thanks for sharing this fine tutorial video. I've just bought a rake of Bachmann MK1 crimson and cream coaches and would like to proceed with a similar instalment of lights. Question: How long do these batteries last ?
I was thinking of putting the batterie somewhere in the underframe for easy access. Thanks for sharing your expertise & greetings. Filip
Thankyou for instructions on your lighting
You’re welcome 😊
Another great video well done bro, nice one looking good.
Thanks bruv, very much appreciated - David
David Hyde, Your tutorial on fitting lights to a oo coach was very well explained, however I failed to see where the battery holder ended up, and would you be able to change the battery easily?
regards Thornton McLaughlan.
Hi Thornton. I have stored the batteries at one end of each coach. There is a gap where the seats end. Not brilliant, as it turned out, because, although the coach body can be unclipped, it is quite fiddly. The batteries could be fitted outside under the centre of each coach (perhaps a plasticard box made to measure). It is still a good solution as it does not rely on pick-up from the track.
Hi David, certainly very effective. I wonder how long the battery lasts and how you replace it?
Thanks - good question. Simply answered - I don't know how long the battery lasts. The current drain from the LEDs is small so I am expecting a 'good' operating battery life time. Like everything I suppose it depends on how often and for how long they are run with the lights on. I plan to run them mostly during daytime so mostly they will be off. However, in terms of hours per battery I can't answer. Replacing the batteries is no problem, you just unclip the body and replace the battery in the holder - David
Great video on coach lighting - tyhanks. I have ten to fit with lighting, both Hornby and Bachmann. Where can i purchase the lighting installation kits please? Regards, David Blincow
Hi David - Thanks - I bought them from layouts4u.net. My photo of the coaches is on the front of their website.
Hi David I would be interested to know after the last 6 months how you have found that the battery life on these lights. Looking forward very much to your coach video on closing the gap.
Hi Johnny, apologies for the delay in reply. I am ashamed to say I have not done much modelling in the last 6 months. We have had other commitments and a couple of longish breaks enjoying the weather this summer so my railway has taken a back seat for the moment. However I am about to make an update video and show what I have managed to do.
Thanks for you interest ... David
Hi David.....great video for a novice like myself.....will certainly be doing this to enhance my coaches. Question from the inexperienced...if I have another reed switch in my layout for example a station stop module....would that reed switch interfere with the lights also meaning the lights would continuously be switched on and off on each circuit of the layout ?
Thanks for the comment John. Not sure I can answer your question. I am not great with electronics but I think you are asking if another reed switch would effect the coach lighting - the answer is no. The coaches do not depend on electricity from the track - each has it's own battery. Hope this answer is O.K. ... David
@@davidhyde4329 Thanks David...answer is fine....even if it did I would hope a magnet fitted underneath (station stop module) and a magnet fitted in the roof (coach lighting) would not be problematic...many thanks...I will fit coach lighting with some confidence after seeing your video
Very good David. Might be worth swapping those coach wheels for metal ones anyway as plastic ones degrade and make your track nice and dirty over time. Thanks for sharing.
Many thanks Mark. Good point about the wheels. I will keep an eye on them. I am not sure they are plastic to be fair. All I know is they don't conduct electricity, and they are not like the plastic wheels on older stock. Perhaps someone knows for sure. Many thanks for the tip - David
Hi David, thanks for sharing, sometime has passed, how long do the batteries last?
Hi. Because my railway is an out-&-back shelf style layout I do not run my coaches in a loop and therefore the batteries are lasting very well with my because I am still using the same batteries. I guess you would need an electronics guy to tell you how long the battery would last when continuously powering the number of leds in each coach (this could vary depending on the coach).
However I think it was a mistake to place the batteries inside the coaches. I have had to change one or two batteries where, I think, I have accidentally left the the lights on, or accidentally switched them on in storage. Although it is possible to remove the coach bodies they are held in place with small plastic clips (at least my Hornby ones are) and they have proved easy to break and impossible to repair. I still think the system is a good one but I am refitting the battery holder under the chassis to make changing easier. Apologies for the delay in response - I hope this helps ... David
Hi David, great video - thanks for sharing! I’d be very interested to see a video of how you retrofit the battery cases to the chassis as I too am concerned about the fragility of the coach bodies. Thanks for taking the time to do these - invaluable!
Very interesting David! My dad and I are very interested in the prospect of your carriage lighting. Very smart concept and might have to look at this system for my own needs. All the best with the layout and overall operation.
Cheers Caleb
Hi Caleb, I agree, a very smart concept. I have been delayed (pressure of work) at the moment but I will get around to another video on these lights. Good luck, It's nice to hear you and your dad are interested in railway modelling, all the best with your layout too. Regards .. David
I was looking for something like this David, thanks for the video :). Ian
Me too Ian. I have looked at many solutions which were either too fiddly or too pricey. Saw them at the shop. thought I would pass on details - David
Very interesting David. Thanks for sharing this. Off to the workshop to see how easy / difficult it will be to make one in N. The reed switch idea is brilliant as I have an exhibition layout with a very large fiddle yard. Positioning reed switches at the entrance and exit tracks to and from the scenic part of the layout appeals enormously. Cheers, Bob
HI David, could you please share where you have purchased that kit from?
Hi david! The video was spot on, but what is that great song? Can you please tell me! Thanks! :)
Hi, thanks for your comments. The music I use comes from a copyright free source recommended by youtube. I downloaded it from audionautix.com and it is called 'Greenleaves'
Hope this helps ... David
Awesome. It's like watching BBC 2 in 1974. :D
Hi Hamish, lol - great comment, appreciate it - David
Hi David, Good looking lighting kits and simple to fit and operate.
I was at the East Anglian show last Saturday it is only a couple of miles from the Hemingfords village where I live. Shame it won't be there next year. Are you close by? ...............John
Hi John. Yes I am - I live in St.Ives. Perhaps we could meet up over a pint. Hopefully next year is just a change of venue and it won't be too far away. Thanks again for your comments - David
Well David, what a small world! We have been communicating on RUclips for about two years and had no idea that we live that close. It would be great to meet and have a good chat about all things railway. May I suggest that you come to Hemingford Grey and you can then see first hand the rather untidy mess that I call my Railway Room. You can contact me by email to avoid braodcasting too much about our exact locations! I am at
gricer5mt@gmail.com
............................John
Hello John. I know, it's amazing, Graham from Lakeside also lives nearby too, although I have never met him. Thanks very much for the offer, I would love to see your railway room. Its comforting to know yours is messy too. I will contact you by email. I am off to work shortly, I will email you later today - David
OK David, I will look out for your email.
I actually know Graham and have been lucky enough to meet him and his lady wife and to see Lakeside for real and it is an excellent piece of modelling. ...............John
David. Did you leave the battery holder on the outside at the end of the coach when you fitted the battery operated coach lighting?
Hi John, no, I fitted the battery holder to th inside of each coach. However, if I were to do it again I would definately fit the holder outside - underneath the coach where it would nor show. This, or fit a couple of smaller 1.5v button batteries (easier to hide) under the coaches - hope this helps ... David
@@davidhyde4329 Hi David. Thanks for the reply. I'm going to change the wheels for metal ones from Peter's Spares which are insulated at one end. I'll fit some springs to the axel and take power from the track. I think changing the batteries is a bit fiddly. I've ordered the parts for the lighting from Layouts4u and the rest from Peter's Spares. It will be a few weeks before its completed as I'm going away next week. By the way where did you get the concertina type connectors for between the coaches from? They look great. John
I'll have to give those a look at some point, Alex.
Thank you David. gonna try this...
I tried it & it has been a success... lights installed in TT:120 coaches.
My first time ever soldering
Nice video David, An interesting way of doing lighting without the hassle for sure. If you wanted to get a little more technical you could have a simple bit of wood with a magnet (or electromagnet for switch operation) over the entrance/exit to the fiddleyard so that the lighting could be a little more automated?
Cheers, Michael
Hi Michael, thanks for your comments. You could indeed, I have thought of that, and i might well set op a gantry on the entry/exit from my fiddle yard. It will be hinged/swiveled so the magnets can be turned out of use during day running. Fully automated coach lighting for pennies, not bad - David
Could you tell me where you got that kit from?.......thanks Kev
Sure Kev - from Layouts 4u - here is the link - www.layouts4u.net
Regards, David
Excellent neat approach. Just wondering whether some heat shrink tube might be useful to cover the exposed leads.
When I added lighting to my DMU set I used diodes to restrict the head and tail lights to the approriate direction - but that had a track pick up which you don't have. I occurs to me that the rotation sensors used for mouse wheels might have an application here but that could be getting too complicated to develop for a one-off installation.
Hi, thanks very much. I would certainly use heat shrink tube if I chose not to glue the wires in place. They are not going to move so there should not be a problem. (I know - famous last words). Thanks for the thoughts on the DMU. I have one I am planning to fit with this lighting. Although it has track pic-ups I am considering fitting these lights, they are flicker free and constantly either on or off. Don't understand enough to see how mouse wheels would work, but I am open to all suggestions. I will be doing a video on, or including my DMU sometime in the near future - David
Hi David, thanks for the prompt response. A further thought on the DMU - At the time when I did mine (1982) there was a much smaller range of LEDs available and I had to use 5mm ones, which were obviously too big for the DMU ends. I put the LEDs into the 'battery box' and used a system of light pipes to illuminate the headlamps / taillamps. That was in the days when Maplin was still a viable catalogue business and I found some single-strand fibre optic cable 1mm diameter complete with a black sheathing. I drilled a very shallow 1mm hole in the apex of the LED, just deep enough to retain the F-O cable and glued it in. The outer ends of the light pipes were then fitted into appropiate holes in the body of the DMU. I suspect that the modern variety of LEDs would make this unnecessary.
To reduce flicker you can put a capacitor into the circuit - again the Maplin catalogue was very helpful with the necessary info.
Returning to motion sensors, I found an excellent explanation of how a mouse wheel works (www.explainthatstuff.com/computermouse.html) but I was only using the mouse wheel as a common example of the concept. It is one of the major attractions of railway modelling that it generates an interest in other aspects of life, one of which is photography, another is electronics. I was thinking that something like a miniature ABS sensor could be mounted on the bogie with markings on the inward face of the wheel to give an indication of direction (and speed - do you want a speedometer on your control panel?) and thereby change the aspect of the lights. Of course this is moving a long away from your 'keep it simple' approach that is so successful and entertaining.
BTW, have you seen Luke Towan's posts on how he prepares scenery?
Great Ideat. many thanks. I understand your lighting for a DC layout (1982) but, as I understand the supply through the track is AC so I would probably need a rectifier of some kind. But it is still doable I am sure. Like the use of the 'battery box' , would probably still need to use optic fibers - I am sure I have some tucked away. I will give this some serious thought. It would be good to go the whole hog with interior lights and headlamps & tail-lamps - David
Thanks for the link, very interesting explanation. Not something i have thought about before. I think, given my limited brain capacity, I will keep things simple for the time being. Yes I have been following Luke Towan for a long time and watched many of his excellent videos - quite an inspirartion - David
You were to bring balance to the fleet, not leaving passengers in darkness xD
The lighting is absolutely beautiful, sir!
Thanks so much - truly appreciated ... David
I've never done any Soldering (long, painful story,) so this excellent Video has helped me on the way. I think I've watched it a dozen times now :-) I wanted lights on a rather large static diorama with no current in the Rails, so these Kits are wonderful. I can't help but wonder whether ONE Battery would power more than one strip of lights though. Even so, these lights can be used anywhere... e.g. building interiors AND exteriors. Great possibilities and at a remarkably small price.
Hi Mike. I agree, they have great possibilities. I have fitted a couple in buildings that hide point motors. If I have a problem with them I can remove the buildings without having to disconnect the wiring. There is no reason why you could not connect more than lighting strip but it will drain the battery quicker (assuming you have them on at the same time).
Thanks for your kind comments .. David
Thanks for your reply David… When (or if) I get my little Project together, I do not expect it to be illuminated for any great lengths of time. I don’t know the Life-Expectancy of a 3V Battery running these little LEDs, so I had a mind to fit one to run two Carriages so I’d have back-up Batteries just in case. Failing that, I thought I’d try to fit the Battery casings outside and underneath the Carriages to make exchanging them simple, without the need to disassemble them. It’s just a static diorama, so that option would all be invisible and obviously not impede it in any way.
My plan is also to have a floodlit central Building, with some dimmer interior lighting. It all sounds so simple, except that it grew from an idea to have a full wrap-around Back Scene of a City at night time. How to actually light THAT is a bit problematic for a dark room I suppose. Perhaps I’ll use a Twilight setting.
Sounds good to me Mike. I think you are right, I would expect that most people operate their layouts mainly in 'daytime'. Its nice every now and then to run at 'night' with the layout lit up. I too don't know how long the 3v batteries will last but as I only infrequently operate with the lights on I would hope the batteries last a while. We will see !!
Thanks again for your comments, good luck with your project, hope you get it off the ground .. David
Hi David, do you know if they have a website for us to order from,
Best Regards
Matt Dennis
Hi Matt, yes they do. Just Google Layouts4u - it will come up - David
Is the reed switch normally Open or Normally closed latching reed switch?
Sorry for the delay Bill. Mine seem to be normally open - non latching - hope this helps.
Interesting. I wonder where one would purchase these lighting kits.
Hi, thanks. I bought them at the EA Model railway show from Layouts4U, they have website and a shop in March, Cambridgeshire - www.layouts4u.net/coachlighting.html
Thanks HN - David
Thanks, HotNoocle and David, they ship overseas, too.
Excellent - David
I am wondering where you have gone its been almost 5 months?
Hi Warren. I am still here - my last video took a while took a while make and I have been busier with work this year - so much for a quiet retirement!!
My railway is in a spare room in the 'atttic' space of our chalet bungalow I have had a couple of months doing nothing on my railway as it gets too hot up there.
Now the weather has cooled I will get an update video out as soon as i can .. regards .. David
Oh that is good and since it was in your attic I understand. We have had a heat wave over here in the U.S. too so I can so I can see why you would not want to be up there. I can not wait for your next video, best regards Warren Lehmkuhle.
Excellent. Thank you
Many thanks Minty, much appreciated - David
Nice one Bud. Enjoyed the vid and learnt a lot, thanks for that. However, I was surprised that you didn't take the opportunity to put some passengers in, which would have finished off the effect. Maybe your intending to do that later, either way, great vid and look forward to more from you. Thanks.
Good point Richard - I will be publishing a video shortly to explain my future plans for modelling - stay tuned as they say 👍
my question: where the heck did you put the battery?
Hi Marie, the small flat batteries are fitted inside, at the end of the coach. I used a windowless compartment where I could to hide the battery. I suppose it depends on the coaches you have. Theye were designed to fit inside the coaches but I gues they could easily be fitted underneath with a bit of enginuity - Thanks for the question ... David
@@davidhyde4329 thank you very much, this the the problem I have currently
Thank you so much for the wonderful tutorial, my apologies if this was already answered however, what kind of lighting did you use in your layout to achieve that “night” look? Thank you so much!
Apologies for lateness of response - you have probably worked it out by now 😊. I made a scenic mask for the night sky added in post-production . The room lighting was adjusted so that the coach and platform lights were brighter. Camera on a tripod to shoot stills and video. Probably too late for you - hope this helps. Apologies again 👍👍👍
I would defiantly recommend this lighting system 101%. I have just installed 4 LED lighting strips into 2 of my Hornby 2BIL units, It is very good friction free and flicker free system. The only modification that I did to the lighting strip was to add a 330 ohm resistor in series with the battery and LED's. This reduced the brightness of the LED's to a more realistic level in the coaches and also reduced the glow through the thin plastic sides of the 2 BIL units. At the same time I took the opportunity to file out and install another LED to light up the front head code panel. The only down side to this lighting system is the need now to paint the interiors and seats, as these items can now be seen more clearly thanks to the interior lighting. I have read that Hornby are marketing a carriage lighting strip containing 4 LED's that they say will run for 200 hours on1 battery, so assuming 3 times the current draw for the12 LED's of the Layouts4U lighting strip, it should last for approx 66 hours on 1 battery.
Interesting Bazza - I am often asked 'how long do the batteries last'. Apologies for the big delay in response - new video out soon.
Dave what is the best glue to stick the light to the coach roof
Hi Anthony. They come on self adhesive strips. Even if you buy the strips online they are on self-adhesive rolls.
If, by any chance, you have some that are not, then I would suggest PVA adhesive - hope this helps ... David
David, these look beautiful! Well done to layouts4u getting this kit together.
Although this method gets around all the hassle of power pickup, my only concern would be vis-a-vis the batteries. They have to be accessible without taking the coach apart each time and of course generating a steady stream of used CR2032s is not all that eco-friendly :-) However, since the Cr2032 is rechargable, It should be possible to bring out some unobtrusive connection points on the underside of the coach and set up some place on the layout where coaches can connect to a set of charging points (for example equipped with a set of Adafruit 1304 charger boards which run from any USB outlet). www.adafruit.com/product/1304 - the batteries would still need replacing as a charge-fullydrain-charge style of usage does shorten their lives - but depending on usage it's a fair guess that they could last a couple of years. I;ve known 2032s last for more than 15 years in a PC that is always powered on, but much less in a PC that is turned off every night - which is much more similar to this usage.
Mounting the reeds in the roof is a good scheme, and electromagnets hidden in tunnel mouths or gantries could be the activation method - though of course on a tail-chasing layout there would be a danger of the lights alternating between on and off at each circuit!
Hi. Yes the battery changing is more of a chore than I expected. I am looking at mounting the batteries underneath each coach. I thin the charger is for LI (Lithium Iron) batteries. There seems to be a supply/restiction issue when I searched. Will keep it in mind though - thanks ... David
David do you have a wed site from where I can get the latching reed switch from you video
Certainly do Antony - www.layouts4u.net
This is a good time to add passengers.
Hi Andrew. Yes, you are right. I am doing that now. My next update will show some passengers added. I have seated 30 in a 2 car DMU which I am currently updating updating - David
What a stunning opening shot! .... nice stuff David ....Fred......ps who does the kits ?
It's layouts4u and they do both OO and N scale.
Diblington Vale thank you very much Ian.......regards fred....ps watching it back I completely missed that bit ...trying to multitask lol..
Hi Fred, Many thanks, much appreciated. Yes, from Layouts4U based in March, Cambridgeshire - David
Thanks Ian, yes I should have mentioned they are available in N scale - David
Very effective and just the right tone of light. Are you intending on populating your passenger stock? Cheers, Dave
Hi Davie, ahh - I thought someone would ask about the passengers. I have not tackled figures with any seriousness yet. The time will come however and I will now have to give some thought to seated passengers. Thanks for your comments. Yes the lights being 3V and not 12V are not overly bright at all - David
Hi David, I can recommend the cheap Chinese/Far East seated figures for interior applications. I wouldn't necessarily use them for the foreground, but I use them all the time in vehicles and rolling stock where they can't be seen that clearly. Some of the more gaudy colours need over painting but otherwise they can just go in as is. Cheers, Davie
Thanks Dave, I will look into these, I will need a lot though. Thanks for the tip - David
Hi David haven't seen any videos for a while now ..Hope all is well with you... Regards Geoff at Maryville Junction
Well shant be wasting any money on Hornbys maglight kits, since discovering these! I will just use a 3m length of LED roll and cut to length to a Mk3. Still cheaper! Keep up the excellent work!
Where do you put the magnet on the lights
Hi Antony - I fix the magnetic reed switches centrally under the roof. Easy then to switch on and off by passing magnet over the top of the coaches ... David
Although i dont do model railway now it would been good idea add people to the coaches to give more realisim
Would it give more realism? What about coaches standing in carriage sidings - it would look decidedly odd. I take your point however, and i will be looking more closely at the little people in later videos - David
Looks good, but I don't like the idea of taking the coaches apart again when the batteries die. I think pickup from the rails is preferable, but I do like the magnetic reed switch, so this combination would be ideal.
Hi Ray. Yes, I can see that. Changing the batteries is the only down side. Using the magnetic reed switch with a lighting strip is a good idea particularly if you operate DC. I am no expert but I am thinking you would need some more components for DCC (rectifier, capacitor etc). If so, I would be interested in your circuit because I am toying with the idea of putting lights in my guards vans as well - David
Hi David
I will be using DC so I am not familiar with DCC. However, these videos may help
ruclips.net/video/4pms0JVxzQU/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/w1DlEn7VIww/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/W5UisXVR8oA/видео.html
Regards
Ray
Hello David. Sue & Bob at Layouts4U are truly nice people and will help as much as possible. Super people to deal with. You’re lucky getting the latching reed switch; they are quite rare, and I note they are now out of stock. This is a great solution and, as you have put them in the roof, they can be switched ‘semi-automatically, on and off, as they enter the scene, by placing a magnet in a tunnel or entrance to the scene. Ideal solution. Thanks for the update. Very useful.
Hi Bobby, they were indeed, friendly and helpful. I noticed they are offering the Latching Reed Switches on their website for £3 a pop - but they are currently out of stock. I will be buying some as i can see other uses for them on my railway. You are right about the automatic aspect. I rigged up a temporary 'gantry' and they worked perfectly - perhaps I will add this in my next update on the subject - David
Can you get them for N gauge too pal?
Yes Dave, sorry I should have mentioned that in the video. They do supply them for N gauge - David
Cheers
See there's also a version for rear flashing light.Richard
Yes there is Richard. O.K. if you have a tail-chaser layout but a little more problematic with an out and back, because the last coach to enter the scene is the first one to leave it. You would need one at each end of the train and then you would need to switch them round (like loco lights). Not impossible but this has put me off for the time being. Thanks anyway, I may well look at this again - David
Thanks
You're welcome Antony
Is the reed switch normally open or closed???
Hi Adam, apologies for the delay. The reed switch is normally open 👍👍
We are expecting a new delivery of latching reed switches on Thursday this week. Please keep an eye on the web site, as soon as they arrive we will put the coach lighting kits, and the latching reed switches back in stock. www.layouts4u.net/coachlighting.html
hi Sue, is the website stil active? I tried to purchase couple of items and it seems as if your I was not able to complete checkout, and neither has nobody replied to my e-mails and calls :((
these reed switch kits are now available from www.layouts4u.net
Just subscribe
Many thanks ... David