Great video!!! I’m an old diesel guy (age 80) who misses having grease under my finger nails and skinned knuckles really enjoy watching a competent mechanic like yourself! Thanks!!!!
James as you may have noticed there are a few new shows on y tube that are trying to get into fixing generators but they don’t have a chance of competing with you. you are the king of repairs on generators ! Keep them coming
For years I have used 1part ammonia to 2 parts for decreasing and cleaning. When the solution is dirty, simply wash it down the drain. You might want try it.
Wow, I never get that lucky with a stuck engine! Probably just a hung up ring, I sure got a chuckle when the shot of WD40 cleared it up. Great that you had a spare frame in perfect shape to swap out, very nicely done!
Was fearful that you'd been a victim of the flooding in the east; I'm relieved to see that it's not so! Thanks again for the great videos James. God bless. Rev. D.
Living in Florida we have flooding in our area at least once per year. It dominates the news down here and sometimes nationally. My friends think I'm surely flooded out. But in reality I have to get a map and drive quite a ways to find the one street that is flooded. Usually I can't get that near it because it is blocked off until it drains away. So I stop by Walmart and do some shopping. Then get a hoagie at WaWa and head back home never having actually seen any out of the ordinary flood. Sure there are yards with standing water in the dips of the yard that is slowly draining off but that happens after every big rain.
Several years ago one of my brother in laws, an automobile engine and auto systems certified mechanic commented on something I had always done in the past, closing my fuel tank isolation valve and running the fuel from the hose and carb bowl. He asked why I did it/thought it necessary or a best practice stating doing so will always leave some small amount of fuel especially in the carb bowl, around the needle valve and jets and due to it basically being a small amount(film) in the bowl, jets and elsewhere in the carb when subjected to this repeated procedure the remaining small amount of fuel was more prone to evaporation and in the process of evaporation leaving something of a film of some of the heavier components in the fuel that were less susceptible to complete evaporation that would build up over time and repetition of this process possibly causing issues(deposits if varnish and small amounts of trash that might be in the fuel being left around the needle and seat area and inside the jets possibly restricting both after several cycles of doing this procedure. I explained to him that I always used a fuel conditioner/preservative like Lucas or Stabil to prevent/reduce the fuel from depositing varnishes and/or souring. Well, I figured I’d try leaving the tank valve open and the fuel in the fuel line and carb. Well we went a considerable time 16 -24 months or so without a power outage of sufficient duration for me to pull the generator from the garage, connect and run it to power the house. Then it happened, a few hours after dark we lost power during a storm that resulted in wide spread system damage, downed trees and power lines. So a generator was needed so while wearing my headlight I went out to pull the generator from the garage, connect it and power the house. As usual I checked the oil level to find what the owner of this generator found, a crankcase actually overflowing with mostly gasoline and oil. About 2.5 to 3 quarts of oil and gas combined. To memory 2/3 to 7/8 of a quart of oil is normal oil volume for a full crankcase and the generator has never used any observable amount of oil even when ran continuously, except for cooling snd refueling over 4-5 days 24 hours/day. So I had to drain the crankcase, removing both fill plugs and the drain plug and allowing it to stay open awhile for the remaining gasoline in the crankcase to evaporate as best possible since I didn’t have power to run my air compressor and put an air flow purge through the crankcase. After about an hour of being open I felt the gasoline had evaporated sufficiently to fill the crankcase with oil and run it. I concluded that while it should not have and I saw no observable problem with the fuel hose tank filler cap that leaving the fuel lines opened allowed the hot and cold cycles of the summer and winter and possibly the accumulation of components that remained behind from evaporated fuel from the gasoline to cause the tank filler cap over pressurization diaphragm as well as the carb needle valve and seat area to malfunction allowing the heat of the Mississippi summers of a generator stored in a closed non-climate controlled environment of the garage to over pressurize the fuel system beyond what the needle valve was able to restrain and fuel was pushed past the needle valve overflowing into the throat of the carb, into the cylinder and leaking/wicking past the piston rings and accumulate in the crankcase with the engine oil. Now had I just assumed the engine oil level was ok, started and ran the generator there was a chance of the muffler having excessive gasoline vapors even actual gas and oil as well as the internal engine friction surfaces becoming overheated due to the large volume of gas to oil in the crankcase causing reduced/loss of the oil and if the crankcase did become over pressurized due to being overfilled and possibly pushing gasoline past the piston rings and exhaust valve and into a hot muffler or the loss of lubricity on friction surfaces within the engine could have ignited gasoline in the crankcase as it heated and vaporized resulting in an engine, exhaust and if unattended a fire enveloping the fuel hose and/plastic gas tank. A potentially dangerous situation considering the nearly 5 gallons of gas in the generator fuel tank and it’s near proximity to garage and house. So I returned to isolating my fuel at the tank and running the isolated section of fuel line and carb as free of gas as possible as I had done so before while doing this previously and since I never again had gasoline from a heat pressurized gas tank push fuel past the closed tank isolation valve and the carb needle seat and into my engine’s crankcase. This past year we again had a power outage, the famous February 2021 Ice storm that left millions without power. So I pulled the generator from the garage, opened fuel tank isolation valve to allow gravity to fill the fuel line and carb bowl while checking oil level and verifying by smell no gasoline in crankcase. However, I soon notice a slight smell of gasoline, what now. Ran my hand along fuel line hose to find where a Little Rat Bastard had chewed threw the rubber fuel line in an area right over the generator. So I again closed the fuel valve on the bottom of the tank but now I needed a couple feet of new 1/4” fuel line and to allow time for any fuel that might have entered the generator to evaporate. Luckily there was a light very cold wind wind blowing where I had the generator and within an hour or so I felt it safe to operate. And, being a pack rat myself I also had some fuel line just had to find the container I put it in. After finding my fuel line, filter and fuel line clamp storage box I replaced the fuel line and ran the generator for 3.5 days 24 hrs per day less cooling and refuel time. The next time we had a power outage requiring the generator I found the same problem with the fuel line the Little Rat Bastard (LRB) had chewed through the fuel line again in the same spot. I considered buying a flex metal braid covered fuel line but the auto parts store did not have any fuel line with an exterior metal braid or metal braid to slide over the rubber fuel line to try and see if that would fix the LRB’s little red wagon and it’s habitual ritual of chewing through of the fuel line. Lessons learned, ISOLATE the FUEL AT TANK SHUTOFF VALVE, suggest running the engine to run fuel from fuel line and carb to protect for something that should not have but did happen, the summer heat over pressurizing the fuel tank and system sufficiently to overwhelm the carb needle valve seat and prevent the unintended leakage of nearly 5 gallons of gasoline into my closed garage due to the LRB chewing through the fuel line and allowing an intrusion of gasoline onto and into the generator. Always add a good fuel stabilizer to the gasoline in items that are not regularly operated to prevent fuel souring and break down that leaves a varnish film that requires tearing down your carb during a period of no electricity and crappy weather, usually in the dark a most inconvenient situation when you do not have power to run your air compressor to blow out debris from carb orifices and jets and in a rain storm or subfreezing weather.
This really was a good learning experience! I was certain that you'd have to open up the bottom end to find the fault. Instead, you had a great test to narrow the problem down and away from the bottom end. Bravo James!
The Junip Curtesy is a common law right of a husband to the estate and property of his deceased wife. Also known as statutory share, the rights apply to the man if a child was born during the marriage. I didn't know this was a deceased estate generator.... It would have been courtesy...to tell us about that....
Thank you very much for your informative videos. with your assistance, I was able to fix my Champion generator. I now have the confidence to tackle my John Deere tractor as it's hard to start. Keep up the videos.
Thanks James your videos helped tremendously when son in law lawnmower had a dull blade. Blade had never been off and the chunk of wood to turn against made it possible. Also was able to adjust the drive wheels and cleansed the mower deck. Got it running and changed the oil and then turned it loose on an overgrown lawn... no bogging down just a whisssh sound as it sliced the grass
Most people would have played with the needle and seat for hours not realizing that the Oring seals the fuel delivery as well. Good diagnosis and solution!
My grandpa had a brig's& Stratton lawnmower, back In the '70's when you engaged the transmission, you had better be ready, cause it would run away from you and pull you along With the mower.he ranthat one, while ran the jonserred On the back 40.
Good morning Mr condon and generator people. I hope everyone is doing well looking forward to seeing how this engine works out. Hopefully it's not a connecting rod issue like so many of these Briggs and strattons in the past thank you have a great day.
I'm blown away at how you just happen to have spare parts. Frame, blower housing, recoil, carbs... LOL, I'm guessing no one parks in the garage? And I love that power winch! I put a chain hoist in my garage, a fantastic help when sharpening on my Dixie Chopper rider mower. So easy to hoist up the front and get to my blades. But that power winch has me envious! I may need to get one. Yes... I'll tell my wife I "need it".
Great diagnosis Doc., a little o-ring can cause alot of trouble. That o-ring kinda looked like an hydraulic packing ring which are square in the diameter.
A piece of aluminum foil crumpled up with the WD will work to remove that rust without scratching, also try Blue scotch Brite for tougher stuff before green.
The cap can cause problems when the weather is really hot and cools at night. The tank will pressurize and then be exposed to a slight vacuum possibly at night when it cools drawing the meddle up and allowing more fuel in. Will definitely fill the crankcase with gas.
Every generator you save has the potential to save a life in the future. I just can't say enough good things about your channel and demeanor. As always, Thank You and God Bless.
also, a repaired unit with life left provides better ROI over time. As I age I am finding I have become my father, who repaired so much and used those repaired items far longer than other men
I can never understand how people just do not care about the oil in their outdoor equipment. Anytime I pull one of my generators out and it's on for more than 5 hours before it takes its place back in line in the garage it has an oil change and I check the air filter. Whenever we have a very long blackout every time when one generator runs out of gas I hook up another one and the same after that one runs out once I've gone through all of them one time and I start again at the beginning. The one year which is unusual around here we lost electricity for 4 days. I spent all those days running back and forth to the gas station switching generators and once the power was back on I serviced every single one of them. I also made sure that every fuel can I bought I put fuel stabilizer on it before pumping the gas into the container. I was really surprised to see how the WD-40 worked out for you. As always enjoyed your video look forward to the next one.
I am just as amazed with the neglect. I already change the oil after I use my generator even if only fir a couple hours. Drain the bowl, use stabilizer and change the file out of the tank twice a year if not more. Never had a problem.
James I wouldn't say the o-ring wasn't the right part. I would say the o-ring got petrified, just like the gas lines. I have a Chysler Pentastar v6 and what happens with them is they get an oil leak. Right down under the intake is an oil intercooler. The o-rings get flat with heat and time and need replaced. Last weekend I drove 400 miles and got 30mpg at 78mph. I will replace the o-rings because engine coolant also goes through the oil cooler.
Just tore down a freebie "stuck" generator thatd been sitting for years. Didnt think much of the missing carb stud washer until I found it...in the cylinder!! Otherwise perfect condition after a new $6 head gasket... 😁
that hoist will save your back for sure. & make it a lot better to lift & move stuff. always find it funny how people don't check the oil, first thing i do before i ues my generator is check oil.
James Condon I noticed that you chose to adjust the governor spring arm over adjust ing the max speed lever stop adjusting screw, assuming that generator has one. I’m sure you work in these machines so much you just automatically recognize when something doesn’t seem, look or sound right(skills of the trade knowledge). I bought my Coleman Powermate 5,000 or 5,200 (can’t recall which exactly at this time) 20-25 years ago it was a used unit destined for return to vendor at a nearby Home Depot, cranked it listened to it run and powered a couple 1,000 watt quartz halogen bulbs, kind of a pig in a poke purchase but that Home Depot had customers that basically bought to rent then returned items as soon as they no longer needed them for a full refund, so that customer was getting a bargain while causing the store and supplying vendors to absorb the loss of a refund and retuned to vendor to be checked out, cleaned up and offered at a lower price as refurbished unit upon its return from the vendor. it’s max engine speed was a bit slow as the owner had obviously messed with the adjustment so I put my multimeter on Frequency and swapped between ac volts and frequency as I adjusted the max rpm adjustment lever stop screw. The lever can be used to reduce engine speed and fuel consumption when not powering anything at all and I have when only powering a very light mostly resistive load that is not that picky about voltage or frequency like one or two 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would not run it at its minimum operating speed while powering anything for a prolonged period, not good for generator or the load especially a microwave or refrigerator or anything with a considerable inductive load such as an AC or frig/freezer compressor motor as that alters the frequency and voltage which is not good for the generator or an inductive load such as a klystron in a microwave or a compressor motor they were designed to run @ 60 cycles and rated voltage +/- the manufacturers stated tolerance. Prolonged operation below or above voltage and /or frequency can cause power factor inefficiency and overheating if those types of electrical componentsbandbpribablybthevgenerator. At any rate I have not inspected my governor spring condition, tension or the governor arm to see if they look overly out of shape and the generator does NOT hunt(vary rpms but a few milliseconds upon change of picking up or dropping considerable load so there does nothing appear to be any problem there)lbwithbgivernor response to maintaining enhlginevBRPM. QUESTION: first determine by use if tach innenginebthatnitbis running cat rated RPM using a tach. If a generator is not running at the correct frequency and voltage(I know some generators, not sure if my unit has potentiometer adjustment for voltage and/or frequency) and the generator is not hunting/varying RPM with the addition or dropping of load, Should a person bend the governor arm over adjusting the max engine RPM lever screw stop and when? Also, it appears that one leg of the 120vac fluctuates a bit more than the other leg but my configuration and generator size I rarely run anything 230-240 vac the generator just doesn’t have that much wattage production needed to run both elements of the electric water heater nor my AC compressor, condenser fan and blower fan motor or the heaters heat strips, while I don’t know what Kw rating thing the heat strips are I would assume 5kw at minimum and there just isn’t enough margin to run the heater elements and blower fan as well. If there was a situation that really necessitated running the AC I would go to the manufacturers legend plate, add all the stated full load amps and figure roughly an additional 25% increase on start up and at present I can’t recall if the generator wattage listed on the generator frame is peak or continuous I would also verify that before attempting to operate the AC and if it’s continuous watt rating was sufficient I would go to the AC and manually engage the contactor while monitoring voltage and frequency and amps to convert to watts using ohms law as I Listened to the AC compressor, condenser and blower motor sounds for indication that something wasn’t quite right and decide whether running it was an acceptable risk to its components and/or the generator itself. I have secured all other loads after the fridge compressor shut off on normal cycling and powered the electric water heater elementsvforvshort duration to gran a quick warm shower but they too are a pretty significant load on the generator with anything else running. I have one leg of 120 that fluctuates in voltage while powering the 1,000 watt rated microwave which probably draws closer to 1100-1200 watts incoming power for klystrin cooling fan, circulating fan/microwave disperser fan possibly. I can tell by the sound that the microwave acts like it is running on reduce power or something, so not know if the jlystrin can causevrelectuve power issues that causes the generator voltage and frequency sensing ufbthisvubut has those monitoring controls in the generstor’s housing cover to act up but the only way I could tell which leg it was would be to go to my breaker box feed and swap the incoming 120 vac feed leg to see if it did the same on the other leg. I had planned on inspecting the wiring connections from the generator itself inside to the power outlet panel but due to feet, back and neck problems I’ve always just followed my shutdown procedure, called it a day and put the generator up without checking the electrical from the generator to its outlet panel. I presently run off the 30 amp 4 prong receptacle splitting my 2 legs of 120 and back feeding my breaker panel buss bars through a spare unused ganged 40 amp brkr always with my main brkr panel 200 amp input brkr off/open while running the generator. Connecting generator neutral to neutral in the house brkr box and ground to ground. QUESTION: Is there anywhere more common that you have found factory made wiring connection issues in one leg of 120 vac in these Coleman powermate 5000 5200(can’t recall which it is at the moment). When I measure at the generstor’s standard 120 15 amp outlets (which I leave unused except for one to power a std household 20 inch box fan for exhaust fume control near the garage and extra generator cooling especially during the hot summer periods. The fluctuation is not present at the 120 generator outlets leading me to think the issue is at the 30 amp 4 pole receptacle or it’s incoming feed probably from the std 120 outlets. Just need to open the power panel and inspect the wiring connections to begin with I guess then the 4 prong receptacle itself.
To adjust the engine speed, the governor spring tension should be increased or decreased which correspondingly changes the engine speed. A lot of generators have a screw that can be used to increase or decrease the spring tension. This style engine, only bending the tab can make that tension adjustment. Others like the 9hp Vangaurd engines have a throttle control lever with a min and max set screw. Even that throttle is just acting to change the spring tension. Most carburetors have an idle set screw. That should not be used on most generators and turn be turned most of the way out, unless it has an auto idle function and actually needs to idle. Q1: If you are running at full load, ideally the engine speed should be 57 hertz or higher and below 62.5 hertz with no load. Ideally, I aim for 61.5 hertz at no load and above 58 hertz at full load. If the generator does not have an AVR, then I might adjust the speed a little more depending on where the voltage is at. It is possible for one leg to produce a slightly different voltage, but the hertz should match between legs. Inductive loads surge 2x to 3x the running watts. So a 1200 watt microwave might need 3600 to start. Most 5000 watt generators are divided into two 120v 2500 watt legs. Starting a microwave will exceed the stator rating, but the engine should have enough power assuming the other leg is not fully loaded at the same time. I have not seen any Powermate factory wiring mistakes. Voltage drop will occur over your generator cord. The longer the cord and higher the load the more voltage drop you will get on the leg being used. Another thing to consider is floating neutral vs bonded neutral. A lot of generators bond the generator neutral to the generator ground. When connecting to your transfer switch the neutral and ground are bonded again. The can provide an increased risk to electrocution between ground and neutral since current is now flowing unevenly from you house to the generator.
Nikki carburetors are prone to leak with age. Not only the needke, but also the o-ring, and funky gasket need to be replaced. That "flipper" that had this generator before you gave up pretty easily.
James, Thank you for the video. The tea ball for teeny tiny parts in the ultrasonic cleaner is ingenious! Now I'm going to begin to suspect that 'metallic' taste in my Earl Grey tea. Another conspiracy theory is born. Heaven help us! :-D)
WonDer 40 to the rescue 🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍 So awesome to see that engine made a full revolution after using WD-40. Another easy fix and repair. I thought.....here we go again...another Briggs with no low oil sensor and cracked rod or piston. To my surprise something totally different. Glad it all worked and you'll have a good R.O.I. 👍👍👍👏👏 P.S. love that lift and I bet your back does too 🤣🤣
another great video, explanatory of non-everyday causes ... excellent work mr. Excellent James, expanding the workshop ... thank you my friend ... greetings from Puerto Rico ...
Ok is it just me or are James hands way to clean for the type of work he does on these engines. Even his nails are spotless. What’s your secret James! BTW, love the channel and your down to earth videos and explanations. Alway look forward to new content from you.
I like watching your videos, very interesting, I had a generator that someone gave me that was locked up and it also would turn a little bit and I checked a lot of the basic things like you were doing on this one and finally even though I did not think there was any need I took the flywheel off and there was a little bone behind it that was hanging up between the flywheel and the engine housing when I turned it a little, the key was fine so I put it back on and checked the coil gap and it started right up and worked fine, just goes to show you that you never know what it can be.
Looks like a good generator at the end few small issues and now it's making power nice work getting it running a little o ring and adjusting the valves @James Condon
Well we know what we are getting you for Christmas...a holster for your WD! Was amusing how little time and WD it took to free that piston up. Great catch on the carb o-ring. A lesser man would have sent that carb flying in a trail of curse words! Also, I'm sure your kids and grandkids will thank you for getting that hoist so you can "hoist" them for years to come. I heard you mention that move on Ken's live stream the other day. Premium quality as always and keep em coming, kind sir!
Thanks Eric! WD is good for so many things. If you have to choose only one thing for your shop, WD40 will get the most bang for your buck. Of coarse tools would be nice.
A modified tool suggestion for you. Take an old 3/8 x 1/4" drive deep socket, cut a slot and use it with an extension and a breaker bar to adjust the speed tab. As always IMHO!
Whenever I get a used automobile or small engine powered item and it smokes a little and shows signs of the oil not being changed regularly I run some marvel mystery oil in the crankcase and a bit in the gas. I’ll run it till hot shut it down and run it again after it cools off a bit repeat even carting the engines rpm and do thus several times over several days then change the oil and filter if applicable. Usually takes care of oil varnish residue especially around compression and oil wiper rings and valve stem seals. I’ll usually start with the recommended to 1.5 times recommended ratio of MMO in crankcase but don’t over fill by little if any.
When trying to clean chrome with rust on it, you can use regular silver foil sheet used for cooking. Scrumple up a bit into a ball and get polishing. It will not scratch the chrome and its cheap. Like the diagnostic approach used your brain rather than rushing in at all points. Careful disassembly saved gaskets. Amazed how a relatively new machine has been messed with and made worse. Wrong O ring in carb and bent spring.. Also stored badly. Good repair.
Hey Jim; Thank you for your generator videos. Because your videos show how to determine output using Kill-A-Watt & drop light, I went to HF and purchased K-A-W & light. Thus, I was able to determine that (under load) both of my generators were running (as you say) "a bit slow". The end result; Both were ready when Ida passed by my home in Moneta Virginia. We didn't loose power but we were ready :-)
I was sure it was a bent valve from being hydro locked, then I was sure it was a foreign object in the combustion chamber like a chunk of valve, then it was a tiny bit of rust on the cylinder walls/rings? I did not see that coming.
The hoist is a plus! Your back will thank you later. Try the Scotch-Brite or steel wool DRY..no WD-40. Using them wet leaves LOTS of scratches on the chrome...detracts from the overall looks and selling points. Great video!!
With a dry crankcase like that, it wouldn't be a bad idea to start up on two stroke fuel after refilling the oil, and maybe run a pint or two through the system, just to help in protecting the valves and rings - It won't hurt the engine, even though it may smoke a little to begin with. Dropping a teaspoonful of two stroke oil down the plughole is also beneficial in lubricating the piston and rings before starting the engine. It looks like you got a good deal there. I was expecting there to be a chunk of detached carbon stopping the piston going over TDC, but it wasn't! I guess it was just a thin coat of rust on the cylinder wall? Made a nice machine, anyway.
I agree. Two stroke fuel is always a good thing when working on something like this. I might give WD40 more credit then it deserves (since it is not a lubricant).
I picked up a UTA generator for $50. Pulled it over and could tell right away something was off in the timing. Sure enough the cam timing was off. No damaged teeth or anything do my guess was it was timed wrong from the factory. The fact it was carboned up also indicated it was not firing correctly. I replaced the carburetor as it was flooding big time too didn't help. With the UTA, I had to disassemble the generator and remove the stator to get the engine sump cover off. One thing I noticed was when I had the valve cover off and turned the engine over, the compression release was not functioning properly. That was confirmed when I saw the cam timing was off. People do not realize it's best to fog the engine before storing a generator. I drain all the fuel from the system and fog the cylinder. This is a common procedure on snowmobiles during storage snd something I did every year on the ones I maintained.
Have seen the same on a generator that came from the factory with the cam timing one tooth off. The engine still ran, but not well at all. Removing the fuel and fogging is ideal for any engine that is going to sit for years on end like a generator. Also see a fair amount of throttle plates that rust up and are locked at full throttle. Always best to double check it moves before starting.
33:12 How about run it a few hours at 50% load, and some "Marvel Mystery Oil" in the fuel to condition the rings??? Regarding "binding" at TDC, is it possible the overly RICH and possibly slow RPM (weak throttle spring) both contributed to massive carbon fouling in dome of cyllinder, thus forming enough carbon build-up to cause mechanical interference? Or perhaps a CHUNK of carbon was sitting atop the cylinder?
A good tip I learned from musti1. Take a que tip cut off one end place in a drill soak the cotton ball with wd40 place in need seat and spin for about 20/25 seconds. This cleans up anything that the cleaner doesn't get.
Skeletor has a good point, but each has the freedom to decide what they want to do. All I can say is Mustie got COVID and he does not sound well. Wish him the best.
Great video!!! I’m an old diesel guy (age 80) who misses having grease under my finger nails and skinned knuckles really enjoy watching a competent mechanic like yourself! Thanks!!!!
Thanks
James as you may have noticed there are a few new shows on y tube that are trying to get into fixing generators but they don’t have a chance of competing with you. you are the king of repairs on generators ! Keep them coming
Your videos are most instructive and very helpful. I watch them over and over again. Thank you!
For years I have used 1part ammonia to 2 parts for decreasing and cleaning. When the solution is dirty, simply wash it down the drain. You might want try it.
No music, little talking and clear video...especially the carburetor section. Good one.
Thanks 👍
Wow, I never get that lucky with a stuck engine! Probably just a hung up ring, I sure got a chuckle when the shot of WD40 cleared it up. Great that you had a spare frame in perfect shape to swap out, very nicely done!
Was fearful that you'd been a victim of the flooding in the east; I'm relieved to see that it's not so! Thanks again for the great videos James. God bless. Rev. D.
Living in Florida we have flooding in our area at least once per year. It dominates the news down here and sometimes nationally. My friends think I'm surely flooded out. But in reality I have to get a map and drive quite a ways to find the one street that is flooded. Usually I can't get that near it because it is blocked off until it drains away. So I stop by Walmart and do some shopping. Then get a hoagie at WaWa and head back home never having actually seen any out of the ordinary flood. Sure there are yards with standing water in the dips of the yard that is slowly draining off but that happens after every big rain.
@@kthwkr qq
I had a Honda engine on a generator go under water. Changed oil a few times and still ran with 121volts.
Several years ago one of my brother in laws, an automobile engine and auto systems certified mechanic commented on something I had always done in the past, closing my fuel tank isolation valve and running the fuel from the hose and carb bowl. He asked why I did it/thought it necessary or a best practice stating doing so will always leave some small amount of fuel especially in the carb bowl, around the needle valve and jets and due to it basically being a small amount(film) in the bowl, jets and elsewhere in the carb when subjected to this repeated procedure the remaining small amount of fuel was more prone to evaporation and in the process of evaporation leaving something of a film of some of the heavier components in the fuel that were less susceptible to complete evaporation that would build up over time and repetition of this process possibly causing issues(deposits if varnish and small amounts of trash that might be in the fuel being left around the needle and seat area and inside the jets possibly restricting both after several cycles of doing this procedure. I explained to him that I always used a fuel conditioner/preservative like Lucas or Stabil to prevent/reduce the fuel from depositing varnishes and/or souring. Well, I figured I’d try leaving the tank valve open and the fuel in the fuel line and carb. Well we went a considerable time 16 -24 months or so without a power outage of sufficient duration for me to pull the generator from the garage, connect and run it to power the house. Then it happened, a few hours after dark we lost power during a storm that resulted in wide spread system damage, downed trees and power lines. So a generator was needed so while wearing my headlight I went out to pull the generator from the garage, connect it and power the house. As usual I checked the oil level to find what the owner of this generator found, a crankcase actually overflowing with mostly gasoline and oil. About 2.5 to 3 quarts of oil and gas combined. To memory 2/3 to 7/8 of a quart of oil is normal oil volume for a full crankcase and the generator has never used any observable amount of oil even when ran continuously, except for cooling snd refueling over 4-5 days 24 hours/day. So I had to drain the crankcase, removing both fill plugs and the drain plug and allowing it to stay open awhile for the remaining gasoline in the crankcase to evaporate as best possible since I didn’t have power to run my air compressor and put an air flow purge through the crankcase. After about an hour of being open I felt the gasoline had evaporated sufficiently to fill the crankcase with oil and run it. I concluded that while it should not have and I saw no observable problem with the fuel hose tank filler cap that leaving the fuel lines opened allowed the hot and cold cycles of the summer and winter and possibly the accumulation of components that remained behind from evaporated fuel from the gasoline to cause the tank filler cap over pressurization diaphragm as well as the carb needle valve and seat area to malfunction allowing the heat of the Mississippi summers of a generator stored in a closed non-climate controlled environment of the garage to over pressurize the fuel system beyond what the needle valve was able to restrain and fuel was pushed past the needle valve overflowing into the throat of the carb, into the cylinder and leaking/wicking past the piston rings and accumulate in the crankcase with the engine oil. Now had I just assumed the engine oil level was ok, started and ran the generator there was a chance of the muffler having excessive gasoline vapors even actual gas and oil as well as the internal engine friction surfaces becoming overheated due to the large volume of gas to oil in the crankcase causing reduced/loss of the oil and if the crankcase did become over pressurized due to being overfilled and possibly pushing gasoline past the piston rings and exhaust valve and into a hot muffler or the loss of lubricity on friction surfaces within the engine could have ignited gasoline in the crankcase as it heated and vaporized resulting in an engine, exhaust and if unattended a fire enveloping the fuel hose and/plastic gas tank. A potentially dangerous situation considering the nearly 5 gallons of gas in the generator fuel tank and it’s near proximity to garage and house. So I returned to isolating my fuel at the tank and running the isolated section of fuel line and carb as free of gas as possible as I had done so before while doing this previously and since I never again had gasoline from a heat pressurized gas tank push fuel past the closed tank isolation valve and the carb needle seat and into my engine’s crankcase. This past year we again had a power outage, the famous February 2021 Ice storm that left millions without power. So I pulled the generator from the garage, opened fuel tank isolation valve to allow gravity to fill the fuel line and carb bowl while checking oil level and verifying by smell no gasoline in crankcase. However, I soon notice a slight smell of gasoline, what now. Ran my hand along fuel line hose to find where a Little Rat Bastard had chewed threw the rubber fuel line in an area right over the generator. So I again closed the fuel valve on the bottom of the tank but now I needed a couple feet of new 1/4” fuel line and to allow time for any fuel that might have entered the generator to evaporate. Luckily there was a light very cold wind wind blowing where I had the generator and within an hour or so I felt it safe to operate. And, being a pack rat myself I also had some fuel line just had to find the container I put it in. After finding my fuel line, filter and fuel line clamp storage box I replaced the fuel line and ran the generator for 3.5 days 24 hrs per day less cooling and refuel time. The next time we had a power outage requiring the generator I found the same problem with the fuel line the Little Rat Bastard (LRB) had chewed through the fuel line again in the same spot. I considered buying a flex metal braid covered fuel line but the auto parts store did not have any fuel line with an exterior metal braid or metal braid to slide over the rubber fuel line to try and see if that would fix the LRB’s little red wagon and it’s habitual ritual of chewing through of the fuel line. Lessons learned, ISOLATE the FUEL AT TANK SHUTOFF VALVE, suggest running the engine to run fuel from fuel line and carb to protect for something that should not have but did happen, the summer heat over pressurizing the fuel tank and system sufficiently to overwhelm the carb needle valve seat and prevent the unintended leakage of nearly 5 gallons of gasoline into my closed garage due to the LRB chewing through the fuel line and allowing an intrusion of gasoline onto and into the generator. Always add a good fuel stabilizer to the gasoline in items that are not regularly operated to prevent fuel souring and break down that leaves a varnish film that requires tearing down your carb during a period of no electricity and crappy weather, usually in the dark a most inconvenient situation when you do not have power to run your air compressor to blow out debris from carb orifices and jets and in a rain storm or subfreezing weather.
This really was a good learning experience! I was certain that you'd have to open up the bottom end to find the fault. Instead, you had a great test to narrow the problem down and away from the bottom end. Bravo James!
Thanks
And now some flipper is mad af he missed it, could have fliped it for a 5c part.
@@Seriouslydave there is TUITION and there are INVESTMENTS, those who spend the time paying TUITION can reap the INVESTMENTS as time passes
Like the new hoist will be handy and save your back good one .
Really glad to see you working with a hoist now too! You and I aren’t big guys, and those machines are fairly heavy
Go lift more weights if you want to be stronger
ruclips.net/video/FA3Roybwft0/видео.html
A hoist is a useful tool for people with a strong mind and wanting to save their back from injury.
@@auntpollyspizza8194 An "Eating Myself to Death" Vlog....
@@chetmyers7041 ur a useful tool
Ah yes, a little dose of engine repair therapy curtesy of Mr Condon. Thanks for the chill video James! Love your work.
The Junip
Curtesy is a common law right of a husband to the estate and property of his deceased wife.
Also known as statutory share, the rights apply to the man if a child was born during the marriage.
I didn't know this was a deceased estate generator....
It would have been courtesy...to tell us about that....
Thank you very much for your informative videos. with your assistance, I was able to fix my Champion generator. I now have the confidence to tackle my John Deere tractor as it's hard to start. Keep up the videos.
Thanks James your videos helped tremendously when son in law lawnmower had a dull blade. Blade had never been off and the chunk of wood to turn against made it possible. Also was able to adjust the drive wheels and cleansed the mower deck. Got it running and changed the oil and then turned it loose on an overgrown lawn... no bogging down just a whisssh sound as it sliced the grass
Nice
Amazing how such small details can be so important! Lots to learn from this one too! Thanks
Always enjoy your videos! Thanks for posting.
I just happen to have a spare chassis lying around! I love it! Another save by Mr. Generator!
Thanks Ken! I enjoyed your Lawn Vac video.
Most people would have played with the needle and seat for hours not realizing that the Oring seals the fuel delivery as well. Good diagnosis and solution!
Just love these ONE pull and it starts Machines,.... well the Master Magician's touch helps a lot....
You're a SUPERMAN with these generators. CHEERS.
Thanks William
My grandpa had a brig's& Stratton lawnmower, back
In the '70's when you engaged the transmission, you had better be ready, cause it would run away from you and pull you along
With the mower.he ranthat one, while ran the jonserred
On the back 40.
Good morning Mr condon and generator people. I hope everyone is doing well looking forward to seeing how this engine works out. Hopefully it's not a connecting rod issue like so many of these Briggs and strattons in the past thank you have a great day.
mornin
I'm blown away at how you just happen to have spare parts. Frame, blower housing, recoil, carbs... LOL, I'm guessing no one parks in the garage?
And I love that power winch! I put a chain hoist in my garage, a fantastic help when sharpening on my Dixie Chopper rider mower. So easy to hoist up the front and get to my blades. But that power winch has me envious! I may need to get one. Yes... I'll tell my wife I "need it".
Can almost fit one car in the garage, but then no room for working on equipment.
I would never have thought that 0 ring was the problem. Good call.
I've been a tech my entire life...above all I enjoy learning...thanks for the enjoyment my friend!!
Thanks!
b&s # 19480 Tang Bender
For all engines. Used for setting top no load and governed idle speeds
Great diagnosis Doc., a little o-ring can cause alot of trouble. That o-ring kinda looked like an hydraulic packing ring which are square in the diameter.
I agree. That o-ring was distorted/flattened by time and in my experience causes more leakage problems than the needle and seat.
Thanks Larry.
A piece of aluminum foil crumpled up with the WD will work to remove that rust without scratching, also try Blue scotch Brite for tougher stuff before green.
The cap can cause problems when the weather is really hot and cools at night. The tank will pressurize and then be exposed to a slight vacuum possibly at night when it cools drawing the meddle up and allowing more fuel in. Will definitely fill the crankcase with gas.
Every generator you save has the potential to save a life in the future. I just can't say enough good things about your channel and demeanor. As always, Thank You and God Bless.
Thanks
also, a repaired unit with life left provides better ROI over time. As I age I am finding I have become my father, who repaired so much and used those repaired items far longer than other men
I can never understand how people just do not care about the oil in their outdoor equipment. Anytime I pull one of my generators out and it's on for more than 5 hours before it takes its place back in line in the garage it has an oil change and I check the air filter. Whenever we have a very long blackout every time when one generator runs out of gas I hook up another one and the same after that one runs out once I've gone through all of them one time and I start again at the beginning. The one year which is unusual around here we lost electricity for 4 days. I spent all those days running back and forth to the gas station switching generators and once the power was back on I serviced every single one of them. I also made sure that every fuel can I bought I put fuel stabilizer on it before pumping the gas into the container.
I was really surprised to see how the WD-40 worked out for you. As always enjoyed your video look forward to the next one.
I am just as amazed with the neglect. I already change the oil after I use my generator even if only fir a couple hours. Drain the bowl, use stabilizer and change the file out of the tank twice a year if not more. Never had a problem.
Perfect morning. Coffee, Condon, and a generator repair. Thanks for the video 👍
l thought l repaird a lot of generator's till l seen this channel
Thanks Steve
James I wouldn't say the o-ring wasn't the right part. I would say the o-ring got petrified, just like the gas lines. I have a Chysler Pentastar v6 and what happens with them is they get an oil leak. Right down under the intake is an oil intercooler. The o-rings get flat with heat and time and need replaced. Last weekend I drove 400 miles and got 30mpg at 78mph. I will replace the o-rings because engine coolant also goes through the oil cooler.
Just tore down a freebie "stuck" generator thatd been sitting for years. Didnt think much of the missing carb stud washer until I found it...in the cylinder!! Otherwise perfect condition after a new $6 head gasket... 😁
Nice. Had a missing screw on a throttle plate once. Found it in the intake dangerously close to disaster. Not sure it did not get sucked in.
that hoist will save your back for sure. & make it a lot better to lift & move stuff. always find it funny how people don't check the oil, first thing i do before i ues my generator is check oil.
Acetylene welders have a tool to clean out the holes in their torch tips that works quite well on carb jets and other small passages.
Now THAT'S what I call a "hood ornament overhaul"
Those style of Nikki carbs are prone to flooding issues, glad you were able to get this generator fixed, nice work James!
Thanks
James Condon I noticed that you chose to adjust the governor spring arm over adjust ing the max speed lever stop adjusting screw, assuming that generator has one. I’m sure you work in these machines so much you just automatically recognize when something doesn’t seem, look or sound right(skills of the trade knowledge). I bought my Coleman Powermate 5,000 or 5,200 (can’t recall which exactly at this time) 20-25 years ago it was a used unit destined for return to vendor at a nearby Home Depot, cranked it listened to it run and powered a couple 1,000 watt quartz halogen bulbs, kind of a pig in a poke purchase but that Home Depot had customers that basically bought to rent then returned items as soon as they no longer needed them for a full refund, so that customer was getting a bargain while causing the store and supplying vendors to absorb the loss of a refund and retuned to vendor to be checked out, cleaned up and offered at a lower price as refurbished unit upon its return from the vendor. it’s max engine speed was a bit slow as the owner had obviously messed with the adjustment so I put my multimeter on Frequency and swapped between ac volts and frequency as I adjusted the max rpm adjustment lever stop screw. The lever can be used to reduce engine speed and fuel consumption when not powering anything at all and I have when only powering a very light mostly resistive load that is not that picky about voltage or frequency like one or two 60 watt incandescent bulbs. I would not run it at its minimum operating speed while powering anything for a prolonged period, not good for generator or the load especially a microwave or refrigerator or anything with a considerable inductive load such as an AC or frig/freezer compressor motor as that alters the frequency and voltage which is not good for the generator or an inductive load such as a klystron in a microwave or a compressor motor they were designed to run @ 60 cycles and rated voltage +/- the manufacturers stated tolerance. Prolonged operation below or above voltage and /or frequency can cause power factor inefficiency and overheating if those types of electrical componentsbandbpribablybthevgenerator. At any rate I have not inspected my governor spring condition, tension or the governor arm to see if they look overly out of shape and the generator does NOT hunt(vary rpms but a few milliseconds upon change of picking up or dropping considerable load so there does nothing appear to be any problem there)lbwithbgivernor response to maintaining enhlginevBRPM. QUESTION: first determine by use if tach innenginebthatnitbis running cat rated RPM using a tach. If a generator is not running at the correct frequency and voltage(I know some generators, not sure if my unit has potentiometer adjustment for voltage and/or frequency) and the generator is not hunting/varying RPM with the addition or dropping of load, Should a person bend the governor arm over adjusting the max engine RPM lever screw stop and when? Also, it appears that one leg of the 120vac fluctuates a bit more than the other leg but my configuration and generator size I rarely run anything 230-240 vac the generator just doesn’t have that much wattage production needed to run both elements of the electric water heater nor my AC compressor, condenser fan and blower fan motor or the heaters heat strips, while I don’t know what Kw rating thing the heat strips are I would assume 5kw at minimum and there just isn’t enough margin to run the heater elements and blower fan as well. If there was a situation that really necessitated running the AC I would go to the manufacturers legend plate, add all the stated full load amps and figure roughly an additional 25% increase on start up and at present I can’t recall if the generator wattage listed on the generator frame is peak or continuous I would also verify that before attempting to operate the AC and if it’s continuous watt rating was sufficient I would go to the AC and manually engage the contactor while monitoring voltage and frequency and amps to convert to watts using ohms law as I Listened to the AC compressor, condenser and blower motor sounds for indication that something wasn’t quite right and decide whether running it was an acceptable risk to its components and/or the generator itself. I have secured all other loads after the fridge compressor shut off on normal cycling and powered the electric water heater elementsvforvshort duration to gran a quick warm shower but they too are a pretty significant load on the generator with anything else running. I have one leg of 120 that fluctuates in voltage while powering the 1,000 watt rated microwave which probably draws closer to 1100-1200 watts incoming power for klystrin cooling fan, circulating fan/microwave disperser fan possibly. I can tell by the sound that the microwave acts like it is running on reduce power or something, so not know if the jlystrin can causevrelectuve power issues that causes the generator voltage and frequency sensing ufbthisvubut has those monitoring controls in the generstor’s housing cover to act up but the only way I could tell which leg it was would be to go to my breaker box feed and swap the incoming 120 vac feed leg to see if it did the same on the other leg. I had planned on inspecting the wiring connections from the generator itself inside to the power outlet panel but due to feet, back and neck problems I’ve always just followed my shutdown procedure, called it a day and put the generator up without checking the electrical from the generator to its outlet panel. I presently run off the 30 amp 4 prong receptacle splitting my 2 legs of 120 and back feeding my breaker panel buss bars through a spare unused ganged 40 amp brkr always with my main brkr panel 200 amp input brkr off/open while running the generator. Connecting generator neutral to neutral in the house brkr box and ground to ground. QUESTION: Is there anywhere more common that you have found factory made wiring connection issues in one leg of 120 vac in these Coleman powermate 5000 5200(can’t recall which it is at the moment). When I measure at the generstor’s standard 120 15 amp outlets (which I leave unused except for one to power a std household 20 inch box fan for exhaust fume control near the garage and extra generator cooling especially during the hot summer periods. The fluctuation is not present at the 120 generator outlets leading me to think the issue is at the 30 amp 4 pole receptacle or it’s incoming feed probably from the std 120 outlets. Just need to open the power panel and inspect the wiring connections to begin with I guess then the 4 prong receptacle itself.
To adjust the engine speed, the governor spring tension should be increased or decreased which correspondingly changes the engine speed. A lot of generators have a screw that can be used to increase or decrease the spring tension. This style engine, only bending the tab can make that tension adjustment. Others like the 9hp Vangaurd engines have a throttle control lever with a min and max set screw. Even that throttle is just acting to change the spring tension. Most carburetors have an idle set screw. That should not be used on most generators and turn be turned most of the way out, unless it has an auto idle function and actually needs to idle.
Q1: If you are running at full load, ideally the engine speed should be 57 hertz or higher and below 62.5 hertz with no load. Ideally, I aim for 61.5 hertz at no load and above 58 hertz at full load. If the generator does not have an AVR, then I might adjust the speed a little more depending on where the voltage is at. It is possible for one leg to produce a slightly different voltage, but the hertz should match between legs.
Inductive loads surge 2x to 3x the running watts. So a 1200 watt microwave might need 3600 to start. Most 5000 watt generators are divided into two 120v 2500 watt legs. Starting a microwave will exceed the stator rating, but the engine should have enough power assuming the other leg is not fully loaded at the same time.
I have not seen any Powermate factory wiring mistakes. Voltage drop will occur over your generator cord. The longer the cord and higher the load the more voltage drop you will get on the leg being used. Another thing to consider is floating neutral vs bonded neutral. A lot of generators bond the generator neutral to the generator ground. When connecting to your transfer switch the neutral and ground are bonded again. The can provide an increased risk to electrocution between ground and neutral since current is now flowing unevenly from you house to the generator.
Nikki carburetors are prone to leak with age. Not only the needke, but also the o-ring, and funky gasket need to be replaced. That "flipper" that had this generator before you gave up pretty easily.
He knows I have a channel and need content, so he is quick to sell me his generators.
i always say keep your mind open and you will learn new stuff every day , and i did today. Thanks.
Thanks! For the idea of using a mesh basket in the ultrasonic for small, intricate parts.😎😀
I believe these are called a Tea Ball or tea infuser.
I use a tea infuser in my ultrasonic too, works like a charm.
awesome video. I will be watching anything else you do.
Thanks
Engineering in a can, briliant video James.
James, you do a goog job with presentation and explanation. I wrenched all my life and enjoy your show! thanks.
Thanks Bruce
NIce fix on that Nikki carb. I have had lots of issues with them. Like the new hoist and thanks for another great video.
James, Thank you for the video. The tea ball for teeny tiny parts in the ultrasonic cleaner is ingenious! Now I'm going to begin to suspect that 'metallic' taste in my Earl Grey tea. Another conspiracy theory is born. Heaven help us! :-D)
Nicely done. Thanks for sharing as I don't think I would have spotted or known of that individual o ring.
Love the hoist setup. No more breaking your back.
WonDer 40 to the rescue 🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍 So awesome to see that engine made a full revolution after using WD-40. Another easy fix and repair. I thought.....here we go again...another Briggs with no low oil sensor and cracked rod or piston. To my surprise something totally different. Glad it all worked and you'll have a good R.O.I. 👍👍👍👏👏 P.S. love that lift and I bet your back does too 🤣🤣
another great video, explanatory of non-everyday causes ... excellent work mr. Excellent James, expanding the workshop ... thank you my friend ... greetings from Puerto Rico ...
This is the best vid that I have seen for a long time Thanks
Ok is it just me or are James hands way to clean for the type of work he does on these engines. Even his nails are spotless. What’s your secret James! BTW, love the channel and your down to earth videos and explanations. Alway look forward to new content from you.
Thanks. The secrete is gloves and my day job does not involve engines.
Another successful operation by the master surgeon of generators, James. great video, love watching you weekly video.s
Thanks
the hoist is a new and a good thing to save the body mine is busted up from heavy work in the mine
Great again as always. I’m learning from each one and each one is so superbly done! Thank you sir.
I like watching your videos, very interesting, I had a generator that someone gave me that was locked up and it also would turn a little bit and I checked a lot of the basic things like you were doing on this one and finally even though I did not think there was any need I took the flywheel off and there was a little bone behind it that was hanging up between the flywheel and the engine housing when I turned it a little, the key was fine so I put it back on and checked the coil gap and it started right up and worked fine, just goes to show you that you never know what it can be.
Sometimes it is an easy fix. Always check the basics before making the decision to pull an engine apart.
Found a 12d galvanized nail in the same-ish location.
Looks like a good generator at the end few small issues and now it's making power nice work getting it running a little o ring and adjusting the valves @James Condon
Wow !!! You are very good at what you do and i never get tired of watching you prevail over the machine
Well we know what we are getting you for Christmas...a holster for your WD! Was amusing how little time and WD it took to free that piston up. Great catch on the carb o-ring. A lesser man would have sent that carb flying in a trail of curse words! Also, I'm sure your kids and grandkids will thank you for getting that hoist so you can "hoist" them for years to come. I heard you mention that move on Ken's live stream the other day. Premium quality as always and keep em coming, kind sir!
Thanks Eric! WD is good for so many things. If you have to choose only one thing for your shop, WD40 will get the most bang for your buck. Of coarse tools would be nice.
I’m confused how the piston was not stuck but it would stop at a certain point. I don’t see how the WD-40 fixed that?
A modified tool suggestion for you. Take an old 3/8 x 1/4" drive deep socket, cut a slot and use it with an extension and a breaker bar to adjust the speed tab. As always IMHO!
Whenever I get a used automobile or small engine powered item and it smokes a little and shows signs of the oil not being changed regularly I run some marvel mystery oil in the crankcase and a bit in the gas. I’ll run it till hot shut it down and run it again after it cools off a bit repeat even carting the engines rpm and do thus several times over several days then change the oil and filter if applicable. Usually takes care of oil varnish residue especially around compression and oil wiper rings and valve stem seals. I’ll usually start with the recommended to 1.5 times recommended ratio of MMO in crankcase but don’t over fill by little if any.
If the engine has a spark arrestor you might want to clean it good after running the MMO, marvel mystery oil.
When trying to clean chrome with rust on it, you can use regular silver foil sheet used for cooking. Scrumple up a bit into a ball and get polishing. It will not scratch the chrome and its cheap. Like the diagnostic approach used your brain rather than rushing in at all points. Careful disassembly saved gaskets. Amazed how a relatively new machine has been messed with and made worse. Wrong O ring in carb and bent spring.. Also stored badly. Good repair.
Nice hoist working smarter not harder good work James and another good tool to your arsenal 👍 👏 @James Condon
excellent video....nice to see an expert at work and handling the parts carefully....thanks
This unit came around nicely
A hoist ! Congratulations James. Saves back .... and knees 😅
Cheers from the Netherlands 👍🏻🤝🏻
Hello from NY! Spent a few months in Rotterdam a few years back.
Glad to see you using the hoist.
Hey Jim; Thank you for your generator videos. Because your videos show how to determine output using Kill-A-Watt & drop light, I went to HF and purchased K-A-W & light. Thus, I was able to determine that (under load) both of my generators were running (as you say) "a bit slow". The end result; Both were ready when Ida passed by my home in Moneta Virginia. We didn't loose power but we were ready :-)
I was sure it was a bent valve from being hydro locked, then I was sure it was a foreign object in the combustion chamber like a chunk of valve, then it was a tiny bit of rust on the cylinder walls/rings? I did not see that coming.
Wow lovely to find a root cause! Rare. Wonderful.
Smart way to use a teabag container strainer
You could use some bronze wool to clean the rust off the chrome exhaust cover. It won't scratch the chrome but will clean off the rust.
The hoist is a plus! Your back will thank you later. Try the Scotch-Brite or steel wool DRY..no WD-40. Using them wet leaves LOTS of scratches on the chrome...detracts from the overall looks and selling points. Great video!!
Lovely use of lube with wool. Great brushed look!
It’s all in the details
With a dry crankcase like that, it wouldn't be a bad idea to start up on two stroke fuel after refilling the oil, and maybe run a pint or two through the system, just to help in protecting the valves and rings - It won't hurt the engine, even though it may smoke a little to begin with.
Dropping a teaspoonful of two stroke oil down the plughole is also beneficial in lubricating the piston and rings before starting the engine.
It looks like you got a good deal there.
I was expecting there to be a chunk of detached carbon stopping the piston going over TDC, but it wasn't! I guess it was just a thin coat of rust on the cylinder wall?
Made a nice machine, anyway.
I agree. Two stroke fuel is always a good thing when working on something like this. I might give WD40 more credit then it deserves (since it is not a lubricant).
Great info.................. Thank you for sharing.
I picked up a UTA generator for $50. Pulled it over and could tell right away something was off in the timing. Sure enough the cam timing was off. No damaged teeth or anything do my guess was it was timed wrong from the factory. The fact it was carboned up also indicated it was not firing correctly. I replaced the carburetor as it was flooding big time too didn't help. With the UTA, I had to disassemble the generator and remove the stator to get the engine sump cover off. One thing I noticed was when I had the valve cover off and turned the engine over, the compression release was not functioning properly. That was confirmed when I saw the cam timing was off. People do not realize it's best to fog the engine before storing a generator. I drain all the fuel from the system and fog the cylinder. This is a common procedure on snowmobiles during storage snd something I did every year on the ones I maintained.
Have seen the same on a generator that came from the factory with the cam timing one tooth off. The engine still ran, but not well at all. Removing the fuel and fogging is ideal for any engine that is going to sit for years on end like a generator. Also see a fair amount of throttle plates that rust up and are locked at full throttle. Always best to double check it moves before starting.
Had to go deep into the carb pantry but dinner was served in the end. Good job on the double flip
Honda mower engine manual describes how to get real compression when release is on the exhaust. You disable the exhaust valve from the push rod.
Great work James, always enjoy your your videos. Another share the knowledge and save from the scrap pile. Oh hey nice hoist BTW
Love the hoist!
Thanks
Great idea using a tea ball for tiny parts.
Ah I was wondering what the hell that was called
I always replace the bowl gasket and needle valve gasket B&S #698781 when taking them Nikki carbS apart.
KILLER VIDEO SR JAMES
Another fantastic job completed James thanks for sharing 👍
No problem 👍
Wd40 wow wish we could all find one like this
Nice save James. In other circumstances, that little o-ring could have resulted in the demise of the generator. Well done.
A $1 part can cause a lot of trouble.
Nice work. Thank you
Thanks for the video, I have not seen this carb before, oring may have caught me out
Teabagging parts. 💡 Stolen. Thanks and more please
I love these videos. I learn something every time, keep up the great content!
33:12 How about run it a few hours at 50% load, and some "Marvel Mystery Oil" in the fuel to condition the rings??? Regarding "binding" at TDC, is it possible the overly RICH and possibly slow RPM (weak throttle spring) both contributed to massive carbon fouling in dome of cyllinder, thus forming enough carbon build-up to cause mechanical interference? Or perhaps a CHUNK of carbon was sitting atop the cylinder?
Who else believe Marvel Mystery Oil is just ATF???
Good catch on o-ring.
A good tip I learned from musti1. Take a que tip cut off one end place in a drill soak the cotton ball with wd40 place in need seat and spin for about 20/25 seconds. This cleans up anything that the cleaner doesn't get.
Good save on the generator.
Another successful gen love your videos man great work
Thanks
Them southerrn antivax boys on this channel puttin out 109v @ 54hz. Gotta get them numbers up gents!
Skeletor has a good point, but each has the freedom to decide what they want to do. All I can say is Mustie got COVID and he does not sound well. Wish him the best.
good video, very observant
Nice job