E36 LEAKING marine engine coolant pump AGAIN (Perkins Prima M50, Volvo MD22L)

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  • Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
  • Join us this week on Sailing Nendaz as I get to work solving the problem of a leaky coolant water pump. There is a seal on the shaft bearing made of ceramic, and apparently it can be very sensitive to rust particles or limescale deposits according the manufacturer .
    The shaft seal has failed meaning our engine is very slowly leaking coolant into the bilge.
    So in this episode I aim to thoroughly flush the engine with radiator chemical flushes, and a hose pipe in the hope of properly cleaning out the coolant circuit.
    This video is hopefully useful for anybody with a Perkins Prima M50 or Volvo MD22L. It gives you a good guide on how to replace the coolant pump and dismantle the timing belt assembly to do so.
    For those that don't know the Perkins Prima M50 is exactly the same engine as the Volvo MD22L but with a different paint job.
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Комментарии • 18

  • @robertkent2029
    @robertkent2029 Год назад +1

    I had the same overheating, sand, and red rust problem with my 1978 Lincoln Continental 460 gas engine years ago. We removed the engine from the car, replaced all the rusty freeze plugs, and flushed the engine block. We found there was casting sand in the engine block left by the foundry when the engine was assembled. After this, the engine was better than when it came from the factory. A nasty problem was solved.

    • @sailingnendaz
      @sailingnendaz  Год назад

      Oooooh Robert, that is very interesting, so it could genuinely be sand in the engine block. I assumed it was some sort of limescale/ mineralisation going on. It may well be both. Thank you very much for this insight.

  • @phillip1115
    @phillip1115 Год назад

    I know this was a while ago but just came across it. My suspicion is that somewhere along the life of the engine some incompatible anti freeze was used and probably local tap water. You should only use engine manufacturer anti freeze and always use distilled water or pre-mixed anti freeze.

  • @LeeShoresLazyJacksandLunches
    @LeeShoresLazyJacksandLunches Год назад +1

    Great video with some very helpful content. Thanks.

    • @sailingnendaz
      @sailingnendaz  Год назад

      Thanksssss guys 🙏🏼 glad it was helpful

  • @rexsheldon1042
    @rexsheldon1042 Год назад +3

    if you have an electric water heater in line with your engine water, you might need to descale the water heater. Just a thought.

    • @sailingnendaz
      @sailingnendaz  Год назад +1

      Hey Rex, we do have an inline water heater. Although it is brand new and only installed about 5-6 months ago at this point. What do you reckon?

    • @rexsheldon1042
      @rexsheldon1042 Год назад +2

      @@sailingnendaz if there is a drain, you can sample the water or if there are heating elements which can be checked you might want to try. Your getting water from all over the world so there is no telling how much lime and other minerals might be present Good luck and if possible, check with Walter

    • @sailingnendaz
      @sailingnendaz  Год назад +3

      😂 I will consult with Walter first, although I’m not sure I have enough biscuits for his fee.

  • @rbrown3164
    @rbrown3164 5 месяцев назад

    My Perkins is a closed system, meaning well you know what that means. I use Starbrite anti freeze in mine to protect the metal and gaskets. It’s synthetic and is supposed to last 10 years. 😳

  • @rbrown3164
    @rbrown3164 5 месяцев назад

    The sand could be from the previous owner. IF the heat exchanger core was leaking, it could have gotten sand in the engine if they entered aground?? It would be interesting to see what is in your muffler???

  • @AleksiT
    @AleksiT Год назад +1

    if in the future you still need to wash the block, you could try citric acid. it just loosens the rust and you can leave it for several days to take effect. you can buy it as a powder, at least here in Finland.

    • @sailingnendaz
      @sailingnendaz  Год назад

      Thanks Aleksi, I think one day in the future I might take it all apart again, and give it a proper acid wash. Ideally I'd like to take the coolant header tank off I think, but not sure how easy it is with access. We can buy citric acid in powder form in the UK too, we used to use it to make Elderflower Coridal :)

  • @mikemcivor3455
    @mikemcivor3455 3 месяца назад

    Thanks for this video...might not need to phone the $145/hr folks. If you don't get lucky with #1 TDC, is a ratchet on crank easy? (no injector removal? And..what size drill bits fit the locking holes in the cam, crank and fuel pump? Thanks again for an informative video.

    • @sailingnendaz
      @sailingnendaz  3 месяца назад

      Ratchet on crank is pretty easy to turn for our engine. I think it was 6.5mm drill bits for a really good fit. But I used a combination of 6mm and 6.5mm as it was what I had available. It’s the same size hole across the engine. Hope you manage to get sorted!

    • @mikemcivor3455
      @mikemcivor3455 3 месяца назад

      @@sailingnendaz Thanks...appreciated!

  • @mikehowarth1183
    @mikehowarth1183 5 месяцев назад

    A new gasket i hope?

    • @sailingnendaz
      @sailingnendaz  3 месяца назад

      The pump is machined to not need a paper gasket apparently. Liquid gasket is sufficient. We asked the manufacturer.