It has been a while. Still like your Griffin M4SD-II? Any issues long term? Can you dismantle it to clean? In your video, once the push-lock is clipped in, the silencer spins a little. Any problems with tis? A lot of play? Sorry for all the questions. I am looking at this one for purchase. Thank you.
Hello Anthony, I'm happy to answer questions. No issues whatsoever but i haven't shot it a ton as of late, thanks for reminding me to do that:) It's not user serviceable, so you can't dismantle it to clean it, but with 556 ammo, the extreme pressures at the muzzle actually help it clean itself and that's all I shoot out of it. User serviceable cans become more important when shooting 22lr, or dirtier ammo out of pistol calibers like 9mm or 45. Once clipped in, it's designed to have some rotation on it, in case there is any carbon build up, it'll break free, but once on I've never noticed it moving. The only two down sides of note, which are indicative of any can, but especially 556 cans shooting out of short barrels, is they heat up quick, and get HOT, so I use a suppressor cover and that works wonders. Griffin has a newer version of this can that's dimpled like a KAC can, and that increases surface area to help cool the can down, and looks pretty good doing it. I doubt it's super effective when dealing with these kinds of temps though, maybe the new version helps keep it 25 degrees cooler, so then it's maybe 600 degrees rather than 625? After about 5-10 rounds, it's too hot to touch. The other issue is the gas in the face. There's a lot of stuff out there to mitigate that, but the three I use are an adjustable gas system and tune the gas as low as possible to still cycle, a pri gas buster charging handle with some rtv silicone added, and a gas redirecting forward assist. Again, these issues are present in any 556 can out of an sbr and something everyone deals with. If I had to do it again, I might also look at the OSS HX-QD. OSS suppressors are pretty cool, specifically designed to help decrease the gas blow back, their designs are good enough to even be selected as the new standard issue for the Army's DMR's, so that says something.
@@TribalTrekker I bought the dimpled version yrs ago but have never used it! Now I want to use it on a Colt 16" barrel, LE6920. I am a low-tech (with tools, wrenches, etc) guy and when I visited Griffin YT tutorial on this suppressor, I was concerned over seeing a torque wrench (with a supporting bar if some kind) being needed to get Griffin - supplied muzzle piece affixed to barrel properly...with 35lbs fp of pressure. Did you do this? I can't find 3/4" version of such a torque wrench anywhere. The suggestion on how to determine whether bore is lined up properly with suppressor "barrel" (!) so as to preclude destroying weapon/ suppressor. I acquired a modified charging handle years ago in anticipation of gas blowback. You make mention of some kind of sealant to improve results if such a charging handle. What is it and how do you apply it? I've never been up on gas valves and what not. What should I do with this unmodified, standard LE6920's gas valve, if anything, to help with blowback? Any other thoughts how I can get up and running with this Griffin? Thx.
@@teller1290 Hi, thanks for the questions. Mounting a muzzle device correctly is called timing and if you google "how to time a muzzle device," there's plenty of tutorials, that's how I learned. It's trial and error using the supplied shims as you torque it to 35lbs. Timing makes sure the ports are pointing in the proper direction and the device is on correctly. I used a tool like this that fits the muzzle devices flat side by the threads: smile.amazon.com/dp/B086L3XM5W/ref=dp_cerb_2 This tool has more purposes for ar rifles, so if you dabble into other mods, it's a good tool to have around. Then I used a torque wrench to measure the lbs of pressure being applied much like this one: smile.amazon.com/Tooluxe-03703L-Torque-Wrench-Hardened/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=torque+wrench&qid=1597715510&sr=8-19 If you don't have one, a torque wrench is nice to have around anyway as you can use if for other ar related stuff like the barrel nut, and even other stuff like changing wife's brakes, mounting a hitch on her car and etc...Helps justify the purchase to her;) As far as the charging handle, it's called rtv gasket sealer, black in color. It comes out like silicone, but firms up nicely to helps with the gas. Lots of tutorials and guides on this too with a quick google search of "rtv charging handle modification," it's a very easy mod and available from walmart. Lastly, out of all of these options, I think the best thing to do to help with gas is change the gas block to an adjustable one so you can turn the gas down by closing the gas port coming off the barrel. If you're not technically inclined, this might be the more difficult option out of these 3, but it's still not very difficult. I never did it before I tried, but there's tons of video tutorials on youtube that are very help, definitely takes the guessing out of it. I use the Syrac adjustable gas block, but there are many out there. Honestly, even if you don't think you're technically inclined, I say give it a try. The ar platform is difficult to mess up permanently unless you're stupid and try drilling/cutting stuff, and if you do mess up, there's always a local gunsmith/forum/video tutorial that can help fix it. I say give it a try, have fun doing a "man" project, and make your gun your own.
@@teller1290 Also, you said "...determine whether bore is lined up properly with suppressor "barrel" (!) so as to preclude destroying weapon/ suppressor." Your Colt will have good barrel threads so you won't have to worry if you make sure you properly torque the muzzle device to the gun. (Sometimes people will have their barrels cut down and rethreaded by a local mom and pop gunsmith and if the treads aren't cylindrical to the bore, that can cause issues, but your factory colt barrel and threads will be cylindrical for sure.) I think your Colt probably came with an A2 Bird Cage flash suppressor, in which case you can just mount this Griffin suppressor to it, that's the really nice thing about this suppressor. HOWEVER, IF the stock muzzle device isn't torqued tight enough even if it came with the gun, it could loosen up and back off the barrel while you're shooting, a very very low probability, but it'd be a bad day if it happened.
Im guessing on the comments its an 11.5" barrel ? What rail and length is the rail? Griffin told me a 12.5" with 12" rail may not clear the 30SD and since I already had the rail I went with a 13.7" barrel to play it safe. Just waiting on form 4 to wrap up
It's a dd 10.3" barrel with giessele MK5 9.5", which i think is actually 9.55". I don't know if I'd go much closer than that, a half inch difference between barrel and rail might be cutting it too close. I'm since switched over to a 11.5" bcm elw with urx 3 10.75" and provides a similar profile to this setup. I'm aiming for a monolithic look.
What length rail and what length barrel are you running? I already purchased the Griffin it's sitting in NFA jail right now, and I have the same rail and muzzle device.
+meangreen816 Sorry I don't check these comments often. It's a Geissele MK5 9,5" with DD 10.3" barrel, Griffin flash comp, I've since changed it to a hammer comp, gives a nice monolithic look. I used the tape around the Surefire since the locking latch does allow some gas to vent getting on the light a good amount. Since this video, I've switched to a URX 4 10.75" and 11.5" BCM ELW still getting the monolithic look, but less back pressure, also changed from a Syrac Gen 1 to a SLR Sentry 6 Gen 4 as I was getting too much gas in the face, painfully so after only 2-3 rounds, even with a gas buster and forward assist vent. It seems to help a good amount with the different gas block and longer barrel.
+ltwhiteagle No problem man, I've got the ballistic advantage 10.3 with the same rail and suppressor now. I also have a 11.5" barrel with the BCM KMR 10" rail that this suppressor will ride on. I ordered the M4SDK for the 10.3 setup.
+ltwhiteagle I just built the 10.3 and haven't shot it yet, I have the gemtech suppressor bolt carrier in it. With the 11.5 absolutely no gas to face with a regular gas block and the Griffin SN-ACH charging handle, of which I also have one for the 10.3.
It has been a while. Still like your Griffin M4SD-II? Any issues long term? Can you dismantle it to clean? In your video, once the push-lock is clipped in, the silencer spins a little. Any problems with tis? A lot of play?
Sorry for all the questions. I am looking at this one for purchase. Thank you.
Hello Anthony, I'm happy to answer questions. No issues whatsoever but i haven't shot it a ton as of late, thanks for reminding me to do that:) It's not user serviceable, so you can't dismantle it to clean it, but with 556 ammo, the extreme pressures at the muzzle actually help it clean itself and that's all I shoot out of it. User serviceable cans become more important when shooting 22lr, or dirtier ammo out of pistol calibers like 9mm or 45. Once clipped in, it's designed to have some rotation on it, in case there is any carbon build up, it'll break free, but once on I've never noticed it moving. The only two down sides of note, which are indicative of any can, but especially 556 cans shooting out of short barrels, is they heat up quick, and get HOT, so I use a suppressor cover and that works wonders. Griffin has a newer version of this can that's dimpled like a KAC can, and that increases surface area to help cool the can down, and looks pretty good doing it. I doubt it's super effective when dealing with these kinds of temps though, maybe the new version helps keep it 25 degrees cooler, so then it's maybe 600 degrees rather than 625? After about 5-10 rounds, it's too hot to touch. The other issue is the gas in the face. There's a lot of stuff out there to mitigate that, but the three I use are an adjustable gas system and tune the gas as low as possible to still cycle, a pri gas buster charging handle with some rtv silicone added, and a gas redirecting forward assist. Again, these issues are present in any 556 can out of an sbr and something everyone deals with. If I had to do it again, I might also look at the OSS HX-QD. OSS suppressors are pretty cool, specifically designed to help decrease the gas blow back, their designs are good enough to even be selected as the new standard issue for the Army's DMR's, so that says something.
@@TribalTrekker I bought the dimpled version yrs ago but have never used it! Now I want to use it on a Colt 16" barrel, LE6920.
I am a low-tech (with tools, wrenches, etc) guy and when I visited Griffin YT tutorial on this suppressor, I was concerned over seeing a torque wrench (with a supporting bar if some kind) being needed to get Griffin - supplied muzzle piece affixed to barrel properly...with 35lbs fp of pressure. Did you do this? I can't find 3/4" version of such a torque wrench anywhere. The suggestion on how to determine whether bore is lined up properly with suppressor "barrel" (!) so as to preclude destroying weapon/ suppressor.
I acquired a modified charging handle years ago in anticipation of gas blowback. You make mention of some kind of sealant to improve results if such a charging handle. What is it and how do you apply it?
I've never been up on gas valves and what not. What should I do with this unmodified, standard LE6920's gas valve, if anything, to help with blowback?
Any other thoughts how I can get up and running with this Griffin? Thx.
@@teller1290 Hi, thanks for the questions. Mounting a muzzle device correctly is called timing and if you google "how to time a muzzle device," there's plenty of tutorials, that's how I learned. It's trial and error using the supplied shims as you torque it to 35lbs. Timing makes sure the ports are pointing in the proper direction and the device is on correctly. I used a tool like this that fits the muzzle devices flat side by the threads: smile.amazon.com/dp/B086L3XM5W/ref=dp_cerb_2
This tool has more purposes for ar rifles, so if you dabble into other mods, it's a good tool to have around. Then I used a torque wrench to measure the lbs of pressure being applied much like this one: smile.amazon.com/Tooluxe-03703L-Torque-Wrench-Hardened/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=torque+wrench&qid=1597715510&sr=8-19
If you don't have one, a torque wrench is nice to have around anyway as you can use if for other ar related stuff like the barrel nut, and even other stuff like changing wife's brakes, mounting a hitch on her car and etc...Helps justify the purchase to her;)
As far as the charging handle, it's called rtv gasket sealer, black in color. It comes out like silicone, but firms up nicely to helps with the gas. Lots of tutorials and guides on this too with a quick google search of "rtv charging handle modification," it's a very easy mod and available from walmart.
Lastly, out of all of these options, I think the best thing to do to help with gas is change the gas block to an adjustable one so you can turn the gas down by closing the gas port coming off the barrel. If you're not technically inclined, this might be the more difficult option out of these 3, but it's still not very difficult. I never did it before I tried, but there's tons of video tutorials on youtube that are very help, definitely takes the guessing out of it. I use the Syrac adjustable gas block, but there are many out there.
Honestly, even if you don't think you're technically inclined, I say give it a try. The ar platform is difficult to mess up permanently unless you're stupid and try drilling/cutting stuff, and if you do mess up, there's always a local gunsmith/forum/video tutorial that can help fix it. I say give it a try, have fun doing a "man" project, and make your gun your own.
@@teller1290 Also, you said "...determine whether bore is lined up properly with suppressor "barrel" (!) so as to preclude destroying weapon/ suppressor." Your Colt will have good barrel threads so you won't have to worry if you make sure you properly torque the muzzle device to the gun. (Sometimes people will have their barrels cut down and rethreaded by a local mom and pop gunsmith and if the treads aren't cylindrical to the bore, that can cause issues, but your factory colt barrel and threads will be cylindrical for sure.) I think your Colt probably came with an A2 Bird Cage flash suppressor, in which case you can just mount this Griffin suppressor to it, that's the really nice thing about this suppressor. HOWEVER, IF the stock muzzle device isn't torqued tight enough even if it came with the gun, it could loosen up and back off the barrel while you're shooting, a very very low probability, but it'd be a bad day if it happened.
Im guessing on the comments its an 11.5" barrel ? What rail and length is the rail? Griffin told me a 12.5" with 12" rail may not clear the 30SD and since I already had the rail I went with a 13.7" barrel to play it safe. Just waiting on form 4 to wrap up
It's a dd 10.3" barrel with giessele MK5 9.5", which i think is actually 9.55". I don't know if I'd go much closer than that, a half inch difference between barrel and rail might be cutting it too close. I'm since switched over to a 11.5" bcm elw with urx 3 10.75" and provides a similar profile to this setup. I'm aiming for a monolithic look.
What length rail and what length barrel are you running? I already purchased the Griffin it's sitting in NFA jail right now, and I have the same rail and muzzle device.
+meangreen816 Sorry I don't check these comments often. It's a Geissele MK5 9,5" with DD 10.3" barrel, Griffin flash comp, I've since changed it to a hammer comp, gives a nice monolithic look. I used the tape around the Surefire since the locking latch does allow some gas to vent getting on the light a good amount. Since this video, I've switched to a URX 4 10.75" and 11.5" BCM ELW still getting the monolithic look, but less back pressure, also changed from a Syrac Gen 1 to a SLR Sentry 6 Gen 4 as I was getting too much gas in the face, painfully so after only 2-3 rounds, even with a gas buster and forward assist vent. It seems to help a good amount with the different gas block and longer barrel.
+ltwhiteagle No problem man, I've got the ballistic advantage 10.3 with the same rail and suppressor now. I also have a 11.5" barrel with the BCM KMR 10" rail that this suppressor will ride on. I ordered the M4SDK for the 10.3 setup.
+meangreen816 Do you get less gas in the face with your 10.3 vs your 11.5? Do you use an adjustable gas block for either?
+ltwhiteagle I just built the 10.3 and haven't shot it yet, I have the gemtech suppressor bolt carrier in it. With the 11.5 absolutely no gas to face with a regular gas block and the Griffin SN-ACH charging handle, of which I also have one for the 10.3.
Wided opened