You had some pretty tight quarters there which reminds me of that clutch line on the Escape...As you know, it's pretty frustrating trying to film, talk and work at the same time. Sounds like it all went well in the end though from reading your description. Keep up the good work!
Yeah the hardest thing for me was removing the line from the slave cylinder. I ended it up spraying it with WD-40 and my son was pulling whilst I pressed on the tabs. But overall pretty easy repair. I forgot to mention that I gravity bled it for about a reservoir full just to get rid of any air that might've been trapped in the slave as a result of the leak
Ok so I bought a master cylinder today to put in my 1998 ford ranger. I removed the roll pin that connects the line from the slave up to master so I could get it out easier. Now after I bench bleed the master with lines connected to the reservoir and the master, I cannot find a way to feed the line with the big goose neck connected to the master back down and in it's original spot. Is this done from the top down or from the bottom up and do I need to remove the plastic fender to do this.
I'm really not sure what you're trying to explain but as a general precaution do not remove a part except that you have its replacement ready to go. Makes for less guesswork of mistakes during install. My master cylinder was pre bled and was attached to the reservoir so all I needed to do was to unhook the old one from the slave using the tool that came with the new one and undo it from inside the cab ie removing the plunger and the neutral safety switch and snake the new part the same way...
feel free to ask any questions. I couldn't film the rest of it because of time constraints. To remove the master cylinder all you need to do is remove the electrical connector from the neutral switch remove the neutral switch cover by pressing in the two tabs in the middle and sliding it up and off stick a flat head between the rod linking the pedal to the master cylinder and the pedal and it will come off it. then grab the master cylinder from the bottom and turn it to line up with the square it locks in. At this point it will come free and then you can push the entire assembly out of the cab through the firewall.
Did your clutch just stop working or did your clutch feel normal but hard to get in gear? I’m having a issue where it’s hard to get into gear this just started my 1999 ranger only has 800 miles on a new clutch kit only thing it could be that I think is left is master cylinder my clutch pedal feels normal few days ago it would go into gear super easy I wonder if my master cylinder is bad
You had some pretty tight quarters there which reminds me of that clutch line on the Escape...As you know, it's pretty frustrating trying to film, talk and work at the same time. Sounds like it all went well in the end though from reading your description. Keep up the good work!
Yeah the hardest thing for me was removing the line from the slave cylinder. I ended it up spraying it with WD-40 and my son was pulling whilst I pressed on the tabs. But overall pretty easy repair. I forgot to mention that I gravity bled it for about a reservoir full just to get rid of any air that might've been trapped in the slave as a result of the leak
Excellent, always good to get the son out there to work with the Dad. He'll think of those moments years down the road :)
Usman you have a nice voice. Oh I'm a women. Used your video to learn more shops rip me off.
This guy puts me in such a fucking strain
Ok so I bought a master cylinder today to put in my 1998 ford ranger. I removed the roll pin that connects the line from the slave up to master so I could get it out easier. Now after I bench bleed the master with lines connected to the reservoir and the master, I cannot find a way to feed the line with the big goose neck connected to the master back down and in it's original spot. Is this done from the top down or from the bottom up and do I need to remove the plastic fender to do this.
I'm really not sure what you're trying to explain but as a general precaution do not remove a part except that you have its replacement ready to go. Makes for less guesswork of mistakes during install.
My master cylinder was pre bled and was attached to the reservoir so all I needed to do was to unhook the old one from the slave using the tool that came with the new one and undo it from inside the cab ie removing the plunger and the neutral safety switch and snake the new part the same way...
feel free to ask any questions. I couldn't film the rest of it because of time constraints. To remove the master cylinder all you need to do is
remove the electrical connector from the neutral switch
remove the neutral switch cover by pressing in the two tabs in the middle and sliding it up and off
stick a flat head between the rod linking the pedal to the master cylinder and the pedal and it will come off it. then grab the master cylinder from the bottom and turn it to line up with the square it locks in. At this point it will come free and then you can push the entire assembly out of the cab through the firewall.
How you remove bolt that holds bar to pedal? Second question how you remove ring on master clutch?
Thank you a lot sir.
Did your clutch just stop working or did your clutch feel normal but hard to get in gear? I’m having a issue where it’s hard to get into gear this just started my 1999 ranger only has 800 miles on a new clutch kit only thing it could be that I think is left is master cylinder my clutch pedal feels normal few days ago it would go into gear super easy I wonder if my master cylinder is bad
Did you replace the slave cylinder?
Usman The Mechanic yes I did replace it an I took the expectation cover off an looked at it an it’s not wet doesn’t look like it’s leaking
It was shifting great with new clutch an slave cylinder for 800 miles now it’s hard to get into gear just happen out of nowhere
@@kamryn7496 try bleeding it
Usman The Mechanic like taking it out an bench bleeding it that way? It has a little play in clutch but not to much
Wait hold up U gunna attempt? 😂