I was debating on choosing a topic for this episode, and ur last comment helped me out. Mainly since you and I have had this convo prior at the track. So thanks lol
@TeamNotachi Yes definitely you have great knowledge. Esc tuning and gearing is a powerful tool you can have that can possibly give you an advantage and help the chassis be more effective for your particular driving style
Love the content and way this is presented!!!!! Keep ot coming. Just getting in hard with d10 pro combo and new MD 1.0 chassis since we just had local indoor pile track open up here near Buffalo NY.
@TeamNotachi yeah trying to figure all that out now.. seems like i should have followed everyone else to the RDX but here I am.. great way to learn and make it my own isbhow I look at it. Where you bases out of in case we do big drift trips as a team.
Super great info,thanks...keep them coming this quality videos.I have a RAZR 2.5RS RMX and a YOKOMO SX3, with Xarvis XX and RAD ESCs and 10.5T Fledge motors,running on a small track(12x6 meters surface).This is polished concrete but will be epoxy in future...What FDR should I use.I have 10.9 on the RMX and 9.9 on my SX3 right now for polished concrete.Thanks!
Depends on boost feel and throttle characteristic. For the smaller style track I think that’s a pretty good fdr for 10.5 on both chassis ( 10.9 may be a little too wide feeling I’d go to around 10.4 and lower boost accordingly) . Is probably run very minimal boost 5°-10° 5k start 50k end. Turbo around 15°-20°. Again this is based on personal style, and preference. increase boost based on the acceleration and overall boost band you want. Smaller tracks rely on front end feel and grip rather than just the lower delivery. Good habits such as not drifting with your steering and learning to “steer with throttle” should be always in practice. This type of technique should help u choose FDR and esc tune.
Pro torque is when the motor spins backwards (pinion is facing the right side of the chassis ) . Normally this is used on a 3 gear trans ( diff included ) and provides raw force to compress the rear and gives good speed in straights and out of drift. Anti torque is when the motor spins forward( pinion is facing the left side of the chassis ) normally used with 4 gears ( diff included ). Anti torque is well balanced as it pushes down on the chassis rather than just the rear. On the track it gives good speed through mid throttle acceleration, and when in drift. The shark trans can be used either way. With 3 gear OR 4gear. With the included idler pins and location in the trans case. Personally I use anti torque, as its is very good for a large style track. Pro torque is very good in a small track for its “ on power “ characteristic. It’s not really a preference per say, as this can also be used to tune on a track to make your chassis drive better than other set ups.
Depends on the possible firmware changes. I’d do research on what firmware will have that option available. The OTA programmer can provide you a direct link by the firmware button, and from there I’d choose which one according to your end goal.
Is that 60 degree limit for low traction surfaces? I've set my motor to 60 degrees alone 😂 To be fair, the track is high grip carpet. Some people turn up the motor timing to the limit and then add some more on ESC.
Hi I’m running rpx2 esc and I can’t connect with my bl wifi module I’ve tried android and iOS phones both connecting with it But in the app it doesn’t connect to esc Please help
For posterity, those are internal (gearbox) ratios. With those numbers you use this calculation: (Spur Gear / Pinion x Internal Gear Ratio) mentioned above. Indoor Tracks with polished concrete or really slick surfaces, you want a higher FDR. Carpet or high grip, you want a lower FDR. Also motor turn rates matter as well: If you require a higher FDR most of the time, use a 13.5T motor and vice versa for high grip.
Just watched all ur videos damn learned a lot but I would love if you explained “what to do if you want your car to do this” typa stuff ima super noob. Yd2-rx on a small track it’s hard for me to keep up with the more agile cars. I wanna get around the tight corners like them
Yes! This type of tuning is very important. Mechanical tune is nothing if the power is not controllable
I was debating on choosing a topic for this episode, and ur last comment helped me out. Mainly since you and I have had this convo prior at the track. So thanks lol
@TeamNotachi Yes definitely you have great knowledge. Esc tuning and gearing is a powerful tool you can have that can possibly give you an advantage and help the chassis be more effective for your particular driving style
Love the content and way this is presented!!!!! Keep ot coming. Just getting in hard with d10 pro combo and new MD 1.0 chassis since we just had local indoor pile track open up here near Buffalo NY.
Im glad you liked it broski. The Md is a great chassis, needs some work but the end result is worth it!!
@TeamNotachi yeah trying to figure all that out now.. seems like i should have followed everyone else to the RDX but here I am.. great way to learn and make it my own isbhow I look at it. Where you bases out of in case we do big drift trips as a team.
Check from first episode
Wery good stuff
great content man, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us
Eyyy, the GGT shout out 🫶🏼
Fantastic video. Amazing content.
Super great info,thanks...keep them coming this quality videos.I have a RAZR 2.5RS RMX and a YOKOMO SX3, with Xarvis XX and RAD ESCs and 10.5T Fledge motors,running on a small track(12x6 meters surface).This is polished concrete but will be epoxy in future...What FDR should I use.I have 10.9 on the RMX and 9.9 on my SX3 right now for polished concrete.Thanks!
Depends on boost feel and throttle characteristic. For the smaller style track I think that’s a pretty good fdr for 10.5 on both chassis ( 10.9 may be a little too wide feeling I’d go to around 10.4 and lower boost accordingly) . Is probably run very minimal boost 5°-10° 5k start 50k end. Turbo around 15°-20°. Again this is based on personal style, and preference. increase boost based on the acceleration and overall boost band you want. Smaller tracks rely on front end feel and grip rather than just the lower delivery.
Good habits such as not drifting with your steering and learning to “steer with throttle” should be always in practice. This type of technique should help u choose FDR and esc tune.
@@SHREDDITRC yes,I'm using very little steering inputs,thank you very much for your advices,I will test them.
What are the differences between pro torque and anti torque? How can it be set up on the shark?
Pro torque is when the motor spins backwards (pinion is facing the right side of the chassis ) . Normally this is used on a 3 gear trans ( diff included ) and provides raw force to compress the rear and gives good speed in straights and out of drift.
Anti torque is when the motor spins forward( pinion is facing the left side of the chassis ) normally used with 4 gears ( diff included ). Anti torque is well balanced as it pushes down on the chassis rather than just the rear. On the track it gives good speed through mid throttle acceleration, and when in drift. The shark trans can be used either way. With 3 gear OR 4gear. With the included idler pins and location in the trans case.
Personally I use anti torque, as its is very good for a large style track. Pro torque is very good in a small track for its “ on power “ characteristic. It’s not really a preference per say, as this can also be used to tune on a track to make your chassis drive better than other set ups.
What timing you run on your motor?
There is one thing I want to ask, can the Xerun v2.1 which has been upgraded to stock firmware to 3.0 be changed to bec like yours?
Depends on the possible firmware changes. I’d do research on what firmware will have that option available. The OTA programmer can provide you a direct link by the firmware button, and from there I’d choose which one according to your end goal.
I have a clone of v2.1 with USB link to PC app and no, BEC voltage can't be changed.
Your total timing exceeds 60. Is that highly advised by esc manufacturer?
I go by feel and my track size. Not really by any number limit.
Is that 60 degree limit for low traction surfaces? I've set my motor to 60 degrees alone 😂
To be fair, the track is high grip carpet. Some people turn up the motor timing to the limit and then add some more on ESC.
is your drive shaft ziptied?
Hahaha yup I finished soldering when I started filming and rushed wire clean up lol it’s fixed now 🙃
@@SHREDDITRC hahaha o0o0o0ooo i was like is that supposed to be that way for like vibration or something weird n crazy lmao
Hi I’m running rpx2 esc and I can’t connect with my bl wifi module I’ve tried android and iOS phones both connecting with it
But in the app it doesn’t connect to esc
Please help
Here are common fdr ratios
yd-2 - 2.6
D5 - 3
RMX - 3
NGE - 2.9
Those are internal reduction numbers, not FDR.
You do use them to factor FDR but they are NOT FDR’s.
For posterity, those are internal (gearbox) ratios.
With those numbers you use this calculation: (Spur Gear / Pinion x Internal Gear Ratio) mentioned above.
Indoor Tracks with polished concrete or really slick surfaces, you want a higher FDR. Carpet or high grip, you want a lower FDR.
Also motor turn rates matter as well: If you require a higher FDR most of the time, use a 13.5T motor and vice versa for high grip.
Just watched all ur videos damn learned a lot but I would love if you explained “what to do if you want your car to do this” typa stuff ima super noob. Yd2-rx on a small track it’s hard for me to keep up with the more agile cars. I wanna get around the tight corners like them
I know of a post that describes exactly what ur saying I’ll try and find it a post it in the community section.
Normally a RX won’t be AS nimble as a mid motor but you could add a bunch of weight up front to help with stability and some exit speed.
Isnt timing over 60 bad for the motor?
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