Another excellent video. I’ve noticed that many other popular RUclipsrs are referring to and using your techniques. You are a great artist and teacher. PS: I can’t wait to see some weathering on those locos!
Most of the locomotives in SRY Rail Link are in superb condition. ;-) If you only knew how much I would like to paint and weather locos and stock. It drives me nuts because I am swamped with building the layout and post production, not to mention managing the channel. Cheers.😁
Thanks for discussing and demonstrating the differences between rail sizes, and mentioning those Tandem wheelsets. So, I'm going to go with Micro Engineering code 83 for mainline, and 70 for everything else for my initial very small trial 127 cm / 50 in layout - before trying to build the first module of my permanent shelf layout - and buy a 100 pack of those Tandem wheelsets. Much appreciation as always Boomer...
First off, great shots from underneath the overpass in both directions!! Second, thanks for pointing out the difference in wheel tread width, that is something that I would have definitely overlooked. And here I thought that I paid great attention to detail! I have so much to learn from you Boomer. Thanks for sharing. CHEERS!
@@boomerdioramaEntertaining myself on 21" x 71" Inglenook puzzle. Tinkering with the idea of 2' x 8' switching layout. Always wanted a layout, but never seemed to fully immerse myself into the hobby.
Hope your hand is on the repair mate. I agree about using smaller code rail and finer scale wheels. When I started to model Wisconsin Central I used proto 87 wheel sets in all my rolling stock. Had a few issues with derailments, but cured that by changing the back to back measurement to 00 settings. Just spaced the wheel out that little bit more. No loco wheel sets were avaliable so I turned all my Kato, Genesis, Proto 200 and Atlas loco wheels down using nothing more than my drill held down with a clamp and a file to turn down the wheels. I did the same with my Sn3.5 New Zealand Railway models. It made such a huge difference to the way everything looked. Keep up the great work
This popped up in my recommendations and I’m glad it did. Can’t tell you how long it’s been since RUclips recommended something so great. Keep it up. I’m subscribing.
Your addition of the code 40 section below the bridge conveys a very interesting 'story' (Your term, so applicable to what you are doing). I wish I had 1/10th your colorful and artistic imagination. That's why I enjoy watching your videos so much. Cheers back at you.
@@boomerdiorama I was thinking of doing that myself. My 70 year old house has needed a lot of work. Moved in 3 years ago and it's been non-stop repairs. My two 15 year old dogs take a lot of looking after as well. They can't take long walks. I have started clearing space for benchwork in the basement.. need to get a heater down there :-), it's getting cold here in Pennsylvania. Thank you for the inspiration. I really appreciate your videos.
@@FunWithHOScaleStuff Older homes, nevertheless newer ones, can be relentless in terms of maintenance costs. Dry, clean and warm is all that is needed in my opinion. Cheers.
Sweet layout. My son and daughter are youngsters. (4&8 respectively.) I got into O scale as my dad gave them his train set from when he was a kid. They love it. Good wholesome fun. We started building a layout. It is great quality time. I just subscribed!!
Changing track code can add depth to a scene also, specially if weathered correctly. The trick is in the transition, something still spinning around in my head, but I will sort it out. Great episode Boomer, good to see your finger is on the mend. Scale speed is an episode in itself 😉
Another great video... So inspirational, my friend. Thank you for sharing. You're very talented and video's are motivational. Can hardly wait for the next one to become available.
Fantastic! And now, please, sometime soon, upload a vlog on how to load your own custom sounds into a decoder! Yours are absolutely incredible! Thanks for sharing.👍👍
You need a Loksound Programmer. You can convert the sound files from any video you railfan with your phone as well. Phones don't sound great but they record unbelievably sound when you use video mode. Then use a PC with free sound converter app. ;-)
Oh the wheelsets! .088! Great tip! Thanks man . BTW I could stand to watch a 30 minute video of you switching cars at prototype speed and sound 👍 Thanks - Bill
I too like ESU decoders, I was given a Bachman N scale switcher, it ran but but very tempera mental . I switched out the decoder with a lok pilot had to hard wire it in but now it operates very smooth. You point out things to make a layout Great... Some one once told me " Good, Better, Best , never rest till Good is Better and Better is Best" Boomer that's what your Vlogs do!
Boomer, your attention to detail is second to none! A smaller layout really allows the operators to see all the details as you are up close and personal with the layout. Your code 40 track looks amazing. You bring up a good point about scale speeds. I have always said that a scale speed is not really scale as you have compressed the distances on the layout. As an example, if you run a scale 12 MPH, you are covering 36" in 15 seconds. Even that is a bit too fast for a small switching layout. Model railroaders that want to run 35 scale MPH are covering 36" in 5 seconds, or 36 feet in one minute. Not many layouts can accommodate that kind of speed and look realistic. I am looking forward to seeing you on the Second Section Pod cast on Tuesday.-Tom
Another well taught video, Boomer!!! I'm using code 80, 70, 55 on my N Scale layout . It seems more realistic looking the smaller the Scale code is. However, not all of my older Atlas, Arnold and Bachmann , Motor engines just don't respect the same smaller code tracks as I would like. I have changed all 300 of my rail cars, some more than once. Thank You for the opportunity to open up a new fascination for this wonderful hobby. Thanks Boomer really appreciate the info. Bruce Ames in Minnesota
LOOOOOVE IT. Only one SMALL suggestion. Model railroad videos tend to be operated a little fast. AT some point maybe try slowing down the progression of the braking of the train on the right....the first train...maybe 20%...just a suggestion. I LOOOOOOVE the trackwork. The grasswork is amazing. I love the derailer.....FANSTASTIC!!!! I love the dip and verticle bend in the code 40 rail.....man....THAT IS COOL!!!!!!!
Afternoon ( or whatever time it we'll be)....I've been using Peco Code 75 for years...on the main & in sidings. So love what you've done & the way it looks. On my small ( bedroom) railroad, I've spaced the ties apart somewhat to give the spurs that *siding look.* I too am slowly converting my cars to have decent trucks plus adding cushion couplers gear to the cars that have them. Annnnd, totally with you re the speed of trains. Another great Vlog, thankyou
Great point you got there Boomer, definitely compression should be factored in, into the speed calculation, especially for the rivet counters. Can’t build a model railroad without compression.
The nice feature about the shelf layout (in this diorama style) is, even though they have a smaller footprint the scene is usually modeled with a larger scope and less compression. Therefore, the slower speed translates well.
I love Loksound V5 Micro Decoders! I put them in all my client's Brass models as I can customize the sound files to represent the prototypes so much better than any other brand out there.
I agree on your decoder comments. I just got my first Loksound5 decoder and start up was a cinch...no programmer, no JMRI. Also great close-up shots of your models and trackage weathering. More stuff for me to improve on. I really like the chipping affect on the BN hopper end sill…teach me please!
Have you seen this? ruclips.net/video/WF6RPaFvCWE/видео.html Weathering and Chipping effects are achieved with IPA and Tamiya paint through practice. You can't control the outcome as much as you would like.😁
...code 40? wow! you would have to replace alot of wheels. I forget the RP# on the flanges, but they would have to be tiny! lol I may have to try my patience at this!
@@boomerdiorama check out channel APJ’s Experience. I put MNA RR videos up sometimes. I was once a freight train conductor. Survived the head on train crash in Hoxie, AR in 2014. I’m working on a layout in my garage. Your video is really inspiring.
All great info. I still struggle with coded track, so every bit of knowledge helps. I’d also like to address scale sound because most of the videos I watch the locomotives are just way too loud and I don’t think most people even realize it. I don’t even think you can hear a locomotive less than 500-1000 feet away other than the horn.
You are correct after 50 Yards you can barley hear the engine really. Look at some pictures of real track or go see real rail where there are sidings, spurs, etc. You will see very obvious sizes distinguishable from heavy mainline track due to economics, usage, etc,
@@boomerdiorama The economics of "cascading" rail from a main track to a siding to a yard we're very important when railroad accounting methods were based on the standard of RRB (Retirement, Replacement, and Betterment, and please don't ask me to explain it, I can't, except there was no such thing as"depreciation). Thus, a capital investment, such as rail, was used over and over for every purpose imaginable, unless bent or broken.. Until the 1980s wooden deck bridges on some transcon lines had the bridge deck made out of 90 lb. rail on high volume, heavy tonnage, high speed lines. I was standing under one as a 70 mph freight went over the bridge. The rails, "chords," of the bridge flexed, and flexed, and flexed as the train ran. I'm here to tell the story. Good structural engineering, for a bunch of penny-pinching ol' coots. Any manager even THINKING about buying new rail to put in a yard would have been fired while sleeping in his bed at home. Early in my career we had a rail gang replace rail of various weights and condition on the Peavine (between Ashfork and Matthie) with old 131 lb rail from the Los Angeles Division Cajon Pass after Cajon got shiny (sort of) new 136 lb. rail. The old, used 131 lb. was worth picking up off the ballast, shipping to Arizona, unloading and relaying. I heard it made 'em ho faster.
First, I hope you finger is doing better. Did you make a video on decoders? Of course most of us would be interested of the WHY you prefer Locksound, now that you open a can of worm.
Pick your poison. Most people never consider how important the sound recording is. Most boards like ESU. TCS, and Tsunami are good overall. I still think the TCS "horn quill" is the best over ESU and Tsunami. Loksound V5 has superb motor control over TCS and Tsunami in my experience without programming or tweaking. One simple auto program step coupled to momentum and there is no need for JMRI or a learning curve many care not to bother with. ruclips.net/video/WF6RPaFvCWE/видео.html ESU Loksound V5 requires no extra capacitors needed for any style of LED lights. Furthermore, I can record and write any "specific" sound to the ESU decoder with the programmer without the obligatory hassle of JMRI., etc. The ESU programmer is cheaper than an unnecessary Athearn locomotive as well. Last, but not least - Built in "keep alive" with latest ESU Loksound board. Their sound selection recordings are multiple, free, numerous and second to none. They also have built in short circuit protection. What more do I need to say - they run flawless out of the box - especially for the novice. Cheers ~ Boomer.
My first layout, built in the 80's was for streetcars and interurbans, handlaid code 70, single point switches in pavement, and scratchbuilt overhead wire. My second layout (a dieselized remnant of an interurban built on a hollow core door) was all MicroEngineering code 70. My third and current layout/diorama (1 x 6 foot shelf) was built with Peco code 75. So you can see I'm somewhat regressing as I get older! But on this current layout I not only hand-painted the rail, but also the ties to get better realism. And I varied the ballast in different sections to help with the scenic separation. I've purchased some code 88 wheelsets, but haven't used them yet. Boomer, have you noticed an difference in reliability of of the narrower wheels as they go over turnouts and such? Cheers from Wisconsin!
The beauty of the model railroad hobby is almost anything goes. I used to model Interurban stuff way back as well in 1/48 scale. I still have alot of overhead hardware for the wire, poles, etc. I used to scratch build "Art Deco" poles for Interurban layout out of brass. The nice thing about pulling DC power from the trolley wire is no shorts on the turnouts because the track is negative and the overhead wire is positive They are on two different circuits, etc. In fact, I have a powered truck and resin kit for a small interurban car in O scale as well which I will probably look at after River Road - if it ever ends. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama I used a live overhead in HO scale. I wish I had DCC and KeepAlives back then! If I could have a do-over, I'd go O scale, too. Perfect for traction modelling!
@@andrewpalm2103 You raise some good reasons to revisit traction and overhead power with the advent of DCC and "Keep Alive." - not to mention sound as well.😁
code 100 is 156 pound pensy main track. code 83 is 132/36pound rail code 70 is 115 pound. code 55 is 100 pound. code 40.is 80 pound. ur code 40 is spot on.
My experience of having 6 or 7 different manufactures of locomotives, standardizing on a decoder brand is a good idea. I am personally a Soundtrax person, but I know what can be done with ESU. I speed match locos so everything in my fleet can run in any consist. If you can get an Accutrack speedometer it makes life a lot easier. I haven't dived into code 70 and 55, I build turnouts but haven't gone for hand laying large sections of rail. Maybe at some point, I need to build a layout for myself at some point.
Actually, I find it easier to build smaller code turnouts, especially code 55. I think it's because less heat is required, filing etc. The larger code is probably the best way to learn on though.
Boomer, at 0:20 you zoomed in down the tracks and I noticed a small trackside shed that almost looks like an old scale house. Do you know what that is? It has the 5mph sign on it which I also found interesting as I would of thought it would have been km.
You are correct. It's a weigh scale shack. Even though this is a Canadian Railroad (formerly B.C. Hydro Rail - Southern British Columbia Rail), it is owned by an American (Dennis Washington) who also owns Montana Rail Link. That might explain the sign because SRY adopts equipment, etc. from MTR so anything is possible. It could also be left over from the old Trapp Yard era before Canada adopted the Metric system in the 70's.
Do you adjust tie spacing when using different code track or how do you choose your rail spacing? It looks like the ties on the painted code 70 are spaced farther apart than on the unpainted code 70. Is that just an optical illusion or did you alter the tie spacing on purpose?
If I hand lay smaller code rail within the establish scale I usually space the ties farther apart as they would with the prototype. But then it all depends on the situation. The moment you press the dogma is when you see different in the real world sometimes in unusual situations. As a general rule though, I space yard and siding ties just under every second tie apart from the main line ties - but not always. ;-)
Happy New Year 2023, Boomer! Well thanks to this and a few of your other track videos, I went and bought couple of handfuls of HO code 55 flex and a bunch of code 55 rail in anticipation of building a small switching layout. I was contemplating n scale with code 40 ( built a few n scale code 40 switches to get my feet wet. Man, that rail is tiny! ) but in my opinion, in N scale, the code 40 rail just doesn't convey the heft of the trains like the code 55 and code 40 in HO scale does. Thanks as always for recording and sharing your methods! Dominic
Great choice! Code 55 Rail in HO Scale is awesome indeed. I will probably lay more Code 55 on River Road because it looks fantastic like you say. Cheers and have fun. ~ Boomer.😁
YES! Scale speed! I just picked up an Accutrack speedometer to get an idea as to how close I am to being at scale speed. Nothing drives me crazier than people who run at full power equating 150 mph scale speed. Do you have a tutorial of how to transition from one code size to another? Is there anything special you do to make it an invisible/prototypical transition?
I wouldn't disagree, although I prefer the lowest common denominator Code 70. I also thing Micro Engineering Ties and rail profile looks sharper than Atlas Track. I still like the smaller code rail for sidings, yards etc. It looks really good live and up close. ;-)
I'm sorry when I said the 88 I was prefer referring to the the profile of the wheels the new smaller Wheels.not the rail. I like the lighter rail@@boomerdiorama
You sure poked a bear commenting about decoders. I'll add my opinion to not standardize on one. On my N scale layout, I like my Loks (Select Direct/Micro) , I like my Soundtraxxs (Sound Value, Econami, Tsunami, and Tsunami2), I like my BLIs. I hate the one MRC but haven't built up the ambition to change it out. (I have no TCSs but the one guy who recently cited them as his favorite, I asked for specifics but he had nothing.) They all have something the others don't.
I agree, each to his or her own. TCS has the best "Horn Quill" sound bar none. I don't have time to program Tsunami 2. I don't mind TCS. I have several. I'm decided on ESU Loksound V5 though and for good reasons.😁
@@boomerdiorama I handlaid some 40 in the yards for the very purpose of staging photos, and the difference from 70 is amazing. I find that even painted 100 is too big, it makes the gauge look too narrow.
Sorry I haven't by in a while we had a ... little dealing... with a Hurricane named Ian. A very nasty nave indeed. House and car were both flooded and car probably totaled. We have electricity and A/C back - hurray! Still can't get potable water from the tap. Others' have it 10x worse so I have noting but thanks.
Great Job, I love the attention to detail-Subscribed! is the prototype yard along a tributary of the Fraser River and that is the Queensborough Bridge up above? I lived in that area and drove over the Queensborough Bridge every day on my way to work in Richmond...many years ago.
Thank you for the sub! Yes. The prototype SRY Rail Link classification ("Trapp") yard in New Westminster, is on the north shore of the north arm of the Fraser River under the Queensborough Bridge.😁
The .088"Finescale Wheel Treads look so much closer to prototype than the standard. However, because the .088" is narrower than the standard tread, do you experience more derailments or do they fair just as well as the standards? Just curious.......
Yes indeed, they look awesome if you are a discerning modeler. They look the best on tank cars and reefers. Most of my boxcars I'll keep default but the tankers and reefs I will change over to .088" wheel sets. If the track work and turnouts are in guage according to the NMRA they don't derail.😁
"Code 100 is more reliable" I've been doing this since the seventies, and I have never once seen rail height play a role in reliability. Where does this idea come from?
Practical reality in a particular context - like buried track, heavy ballast, etc. It's also easier to clean without damaging the right-of-way details etc.
Boomer, great informative video! Question: do you have a standard width between tracks that you use, or just lay track to whatever fits the scene? Thanks
Minimum 13' scale feet with Tangent (straight parallel track). I go wider on this layout @ 15' center-to-center because all the track is layed curved. There is very little tangent except on the Barge slip where I layed it @ 13' feet center.
I am planning to build my first shelf layout based on a Canadian scenario. I have purchased a few pieces of HO scale rolling stock and two switchers in CP and CN colours. I am in the UK so eBay is my only source at the moment. I need to change the numbering on the loco’s. Could you recommend a web site I could purchase the correct font decals and company (red) paint colours please?
Congratulations on your new build. Here is a great source for decals (Micro Scale Industries): www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=RRD
Ok, I’m pretty new to all this stuff but I’m building a very small diorama (2.5’ x 4’) and want to use the most realistic track. I don’t want to build the track myself but I do want it to look realistic. What do you recommend in HO scale?
Micro Engineering Code 70 Rail. They also have matching turnouts. The Micro Engineering Company was just purchased by a very passionate family who have exciting plans as well. The future looks bright for ME so you can't go wrong, They are also planning to release # 8 Turnouts as well with the same fidelity as their track. Furthermore, ME Track is more rigid than other flex track for example, but just google up bending (curving with a block of wood) ME Flex track and you will be fine. Cheers ~ Boomer. 😁
Boomer, I got a kodachrome SD70 from Ebay and the railings were rusted so badly that I couldn't put them on the locomotive. What could I use to make new railings for it? Thanks.
How is your soldering skills? Try some .5 mm brass rod from K&S. Build up the railing on a jig with holes in it to stand it up. Solder file clean and paint. Or trey and find a set on E-Bay. I have found railing for obscure models on Ebay as well.
This is simply the most painstakingly detailed layout I've ever seen. It's absolutely gorgeous. I started to go in this direction many years ago, but I never quite got to this level of detail although in a few ways I came close. For me, anyway, your layout is the pinnacle of modeling. Your dedication to detail and reproducing the prototype shows a deep passion for what you're doing. A lot of guys get kind of lazy before bringing their layout to full fruition. It's so realistic that at times in the beginning of your video I had to rewind to be certain I wasn't actually looking at the real thing. Absolutely fabulous job. But if you're a true modeller I'm sure you could point out all the "flaws" and "shortcomings". You wouldn't be much of a modeller if you didn't. LOL 😂.
Thank you very much. I don't mind looking at the layout live. In fact, I enjoy it very much. On the other hand, viewing it under bright lights and through the lens of a camera it can be quite discouraging . . . lol. But then, that compels me to push the envelope a bit more. 😉 Cheers ~ Boomer.
hi, well now you have your derail, but why not find a place on you track where a tree has fallen on you track, så you vant use the line before you have been out and remove the tree. so you ar forced to take another rute.
Another excellent video. I’ve noticed that many other popular RUclipsrs are referring to and using your techniques. You are a great artist and teacher. PS: I can’t wait to see some weathering on those locos!
Most of the locomotives in SRY Rail Link are in superb condition. ;-) If you only knew how much I would like to paint and weather locos and stock. It drives me nuts because I am swamped with building the layout and post production, not to mention managing the channel. Cheers.😁
"I’ve noticed that many other popular RUclipsrs are referring to and using your techniques." Guilty as charged. 🙄
@@MyFingerLakesRailwayLayout Sounds great!
Also matching the sound to precisely match the movement of the locos is an incredible talent. You make it look so easy. Cheers!
Thank you. All I use is the free windows "photo" app for all my editing and post production. I convert the sound files with a free app as well.😁
yup, A+. This is what model railroading is about. It has the feel of satisfaction. Thank you for putting this video up.
She does feel good for sure, Thank you!
Wow, that is truly breathtaking in its realism!
Thank you. Building River Road is a lot of fun!
Spectacular SRY operations!
I thought it best to include a little. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama Very realistic!
I assume you roster an "SD35" as well :-) They only have one!
The set is really realistic. Very cool!
Thank you. It's a fun project for sure. Cheers.
DANG MAN! AMAZING DETAIL!!!! Thunderbirds quality here dude!!!! GREAT JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you! I'll be here live @ ruclips.net/channel/UCMDrfzIbov49ykE5u0ZL2ewvideos 6;00PM PT if you care. Cheers.😁
Yes.. I absolutely love slow rollin' through the scenery 👍
😁
Thanks for discussing and demonstrating the differences between rail sizes, and mentioning those Tandem wheelsets.
So, I'm going to go with Micro Engineering code 83 for mainline, and 70 for everything else for my initial very small trial 127 cm / 50 in layout - before trying to build the first module of my permanent shelf layout - and buy a 100 pack of those Tandem wheelsets.
Much appreciation as always Boomer...
Intermountain makes nice (semi-scale) wheel sets, as well, that might be more affordable.
@@boomerdiorama Fantastic! Thanks...
this guy has got it together hands down
Thank you. Dusty has a say as well . . . lol. She's the producer. ;-)
Another great update. Your becoming one of the premier modelers out there.Definately raised the bar for sure. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Will do! I am hoping to get around to painting locos and rolling stock. Can't seem to fit them in right now though. Cheers.
First off, great shots from underneath the overpass in both directions!! Second, thanks for pointing out the difference in wheel tread width, that is something that I would have definitely overlooked. And here I thought that I paid great attention to detail! I have so much to learn from you Boomer. Thanks for sharing. CHEERS!
The Wheel Tread width has become a big issue with me lately. I only model a small roster anyway.😁
This is hit the insperation button. Don't really have the time nor space, but this opens me up to the possibilities and options
I would be content with smaller personally.
@@boomerdioramaEntertaining myself on 21" x 71" Inglenook puzzle. Tinkering with the idea of 2' x 8' switching layout. Always wanted a layout, but never seemed to fully immerse myself into the hobby.
Awesome! Thank you for the journey.
And thanks for sharing g this despite your wounds. Much appreciated.
😁
Hope your hand is on the repair mate.
I agree about using smaller code rail and finer scale wheels. When I started to model Wisconsin Central I used proto 87 wheel sets in all my rolling stock. Had a few issues with derailments, but cured that by changing the back to back measurement to 00 settings. Just spaced the wheel out that little bit more. No loco wheel sets were avaliable so I turned all my Kato, Genesis, Proto 200 and Atlas loco wheels down using nothing more than my drill held down with a clamp and a file to turn down the wheels. I did the same with my Sn3.5 New Zealand Railway models. It made such a huge difference to the way everything looked. Keep up the great work
😁
I just love the work you do.
Thank you very much!
Can't wait to see you on Second Section Podcast next week!! Oh... great video too!
Cheers! 😁
This popped up in my recommendations and I’m glad it did. Can’t tell you how long it’s been since RUclips recommended something so great. Keep it up. I’m subscribing.
Awesome! Thank for the sub. I appreciate it. Welcome aboard!
Your addition of the code 40 section below the bridge conveys a very interesting 'story' (Your term, so applicable to what you are doing). I wish I had 1/10th your colorful and artistic imagination. That's why I enjoy watching your videos so much. Cheers back at you.
I learn stuff like this by finding out-of-the-way short lines, etc. and walking them while taking photos with the phone. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama I was thinking of doing that myself. My 70 year old house has needed a lot of work. Moved in 3 years ago and it's been non-stop repairs. My two 15 year old dogs take a lot of looking after as well. They can't take long walks. I have started clearing space for benchwork in the basement.. need to get a heater down there :-), it's getting cold here in Pennsylvania. Thank you for the inspiration. I really appreciate your videos.
@@FunWithHOScaleStuff Older homes, nevertheless newer ones, can be relentless in terms of maintenance costs. Dry, clean and warm is all that is needed in my opinion. Cheers.
That was a great little informative video. High production value and editing too. You're a talented modeller. Thanks for all of your time and effort.
Wow, thanks!
Sweet layout. My son and daughter are youngsters. (4&8 respectively.) I got into O scale as my dad gave them his train set from when he was a kid. They love it. Good wholesome fun. We started building a layout. It is great quality time. I just subscribed!!
Very cool! I love watching kids reactions to trains. It reminds me of when I first experienced a model train layout. Good Stuff. Cheers.
Thank you for another great video.
Your switcher needs an engineer inside.
Yes it does! I am working on some better figures than are available. I can't stand the default figures that come with model locomotives.
Simply amazing!
Many thanks!
Amazing attention to detail!
Thank you! Cheers!
I’m enjoying your bonus content while you’re healing up. Hope that’s going well. Take care and keep up the great work.
Sure thing! Cheers.😁
Looks real...
Very cool👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
This is some fantastic stuff, Sir!👍😎
Thank you kindly!
Changing track code can add depth to a scene also, specially if weathered correctly.
The trick is in the transition, something still spinning around in my head, but I will sort it out.
Great episode Boomer, good to see your finger is on the mend.
Scale speed is an episode in itself 😉
Try this video from early on in the build Vlog: ruclips.net/video/rEeA6KCcko8/видео.html
Fantastic work as always. Love seeing your updates!
Thank you! Cheers!
Another great video... So inspirational, my friend. Thank you for sharing. You're very talented and video's are motivational. Can hardly wait for the next one to become available.
Thank you so much!
I had a train set when I was real young but never really got into it I could truly kick myself in my ass now beautiful train set
Never too late to start again!😁
Beautiful modeling
Thank you!
Beautiful work at all levels. Thanks for sharing your work and ideas!
Thank you for the compliment! Cheers.😁
Beautiful work
Thank you! Cheers!
Always good information and comments. Great railroad!
Thank you very much!
Fantastic! And now, please, sometime soon, upload a vlog on how to load your own custom sounds into a decoder! Yours are absolutely incredible! Thanks for sharing.👍👍
You need a Loksound Programmer. You can convert the sound files from any video you railfan with your phone as well. Phones don't sound great but they record unbelievably sound when you use video mode. Then use a PC with free sound converter app. ;-)
Oh the wheelsets! .088! Great tip! Thanks man . BTW I could stand to watch a 30 minute video of you switching cars at prototype speed and sound 👍 Thanks - Bill
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for sharing!
I too like ESU decoders, I was given a Bachman N scale switcher, it ran but but very tempera mental . I switched out the decoder with a lok pilot had to hard wire it in but now it operates very smooth. You point out things to make a layout Great... Some one once told me " Good, Better, Best , never rest till Good is Better and Better is Best" Boomer that's what your Vlogs do!
Excellence is the western spirit which explains why the west is so great!
Boomer, your attention to detail is second to none! A smaller layout really allows the operators to see all the details as you are up close and personal with the layout. Your code 40 track looks amazing. You bring up a good point about scale speeds. I have always said that a scale speed is not really scale as you have compressed the distances on the layout. As an example, if you run a scale 12 MPH, you are covering 36" in 15 seconds. Even that is a bit too fast for a small switching layout. Model railroaders that want to run 35 scale MPH are covering 36" in 5 seconds, or 36 feet in one minute. Not many layouts can accommodate that kind of speed and look realistic.
I am looking forward to seeing you on the Second Section Pod cast on Tuesday.-Tom
Thank you Thomas. I appreciate your thoughts and you summed up my sentiments exactly. Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
Extremely very realistic
Thank you. Practice pays off ;-) Cheers ~ Boomer.
Another well taught video, Boomer!!!
I'm using code 80, 70, 55 on my N Scale layout . It seems more realistic looking the smaller the Scale code is. However, not all of my older Atlas, Arnold and Bachmann , Motor engines just don't respect the same smaller code tracks as I would like. I have changed all 300 of my rail cars, some more than once. Thank You for the opportunity to open up a new fascination for this wonderful hobby.
Thanks Boomer really appreciate the info. Bruce Ames in Minnesota
Cool, thanks Bruce!
LOOOOOVE IT. Only one SMALL suggestion. Model railroad videos tend to be operated a little fast. AT some point maybe try slowing down the progression of the braking of the train on the right....the first train...maybe 20%...just a suggestion. I LOOOOOOVE the trackwork. The grasswork is amazing. I love the derailer.....FANSTASTIC!!!! I love the dip and verticle bend in the code 40 rail.....man....THAT IS COOL!!!!!!!
Cheers.
Great video and perspective. Those wheel sets look great! I always consider the fall model railroad season too!
Those wheels sets can become addictive - be careful . . . lol.
As always, great video and tutorial/tips/tricks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Afternoon ( or whatever time it we'll be)....I've been using Peco Code 75 for years...on the main & in sidings. So love what you've done & the way it looks.
On my small ( bedroom) railroad, I've spaced the ties apart somewhat to give the spurs that *siding look.*
I too am slowly converting my cars to have decent trucks plus adding cushion couplers gear to the cars that have them.
Annnnd, totally with you re the speed of trains.
Another great Vlog, thankyou
Wonderful and thanks for sharing! ruclips.net/video/rEeA6KCcko8/видео.html
Great point you got there Boomer, definitely compression should be factored in, into the speed calculation, especially for the rivet counters. Can’t build a model railroad without compression.
The nice feature about the shelf layout (in this diorama style) is, even though they have a smaller footprint the scene is usually modeled with a larger scope and less compression. Therefore, the slower speed translates well.
Very cool and good stuff to cover 😊
Thank you kindly!
First I thought, I was in Vancouver. Then I looked outside and realised I am still in The Netherlands....lol. Cheers
Lol . . . Section one does pull me in as well.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you for the short holiday! Enjoy the weekend!
I love Loksound V5 Micro Decoders! I put them in all my client's Brass models as I can customize the sound files to represent the prototypes so much better than any other brand out there.
😁
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
I agree on your decoder comments. I just got my first Loksound5 decoder and start up was a cinch...no programmer, no JMRI. Also great close-up shots of your models and trackage weathering. More stuff for me to improve on. I really like the chipping affect on the BN hopper end sill…teach me please!
Have you seen this? ruclips.net/video/WF6RPaFvCWE/видео.html
Weathering and Chipping effects are achieved with IPA and Tamiya paint through practice. You can't control the outcome as much as you would like.😁
Practice!, Practice! We’re talking practice?
...code 40? wow! you would have to replace alot of wheels. I forget the RP# on the flanges, but they would have to be tiny! lol I may have to try my patience at this!
No problem with all the flanges if the spikes are outside rail.
So rad!🚂🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥✊ respect sir
Thank you! So much work on this layout but it's getting better all the time and it doesn't overwhelm me. Cheers.
Amazing…. Thank you
😁Thank you!
Great video!
Thanks!
@@boomerdiorama check out channel APJ’s Experience. I put MNA RR videos up sometimes. I was once a freight train conductor. Survived the head on train crash in Hoxie, AR in 2014.
I’m working on a layout in my garage. Your video is really inspiring.
All great info. I still struggle with coded track, so every bit of knowledge helps. I’d also like to address scale sound because most of the videos I watch the locomotives are just way too loud and I don’t think most people even realize it. I don’t even think you can hear a locomotive less than 500-1000 feet away other than the horn.
You are correct after 50 Yards you can barley hear the engine really. Look at some pictures of real track or go see real rail where there are sidings, spurs, etc. You will see very obvious sizes distinguishable from heavy mainline track due to economics, usage, etc,
@@boomerdiorama The economics of "cascading" rail from a main track to a siding to a yard we're very important when railroad accounting methods were based on the standard of RRB (Retirement, Replacement, and Betterment, and please don't ask me to explain it, I can't, except there was no such thing as"depreciation). Thus, a capital investment, such as rail, was used over and over for every purpose imaginable, unless bent or broken.. Until the 1980s wooden deck bridges on some transcon lines had the bridge deck made out of 90 lb. rail on high volume, heavy tonnage, high speed lines. I was standing under one as a 70 mph freight went over the bridge. The rails, "chords," of the bridge flexed, and flexed, and flexed as the train ran. I'm here to tell the story. Good structural engineering, for a bunch of penny-pinching ol' coots.
Any manager even THINKING about buying new rail to put in a yard would have been fired while sleeping in his bed at home.
Early in my career we had a rail gang replace rail of various weights and condition on the Peavine (between Ashfork and Matthie) with old 131 lb rail from the Los Angeles Division Cajon Pass after Cajon got shiny (sort of) new 136 lb. rail. The old, used 131 lb. was worth picking up off the ballast, shipping to Arizona, unloading and relaying. I heard it made 'em ho faster.
Very cool
😁
Amazing
Thank you! Cheers.😁
First, I hope you finger is doing better. Did you make a video on decoders? Of course most of us would be interested of the WHY you prefer Locksound, now that you open a can of worm.
Pick your poison. Most people never consider how important the sound recording is. Most boards like ESU. TCS, and Tsunami are good overall. I still think the TCS "horn quill" is the best over ESU and Tsunami.
Loksound V5 has superb motor control over TCS and Tsunami in my experience without programming or tweaking. One simple auto program step coupled to momentum and there is no need for JMRI or a learning curve many care not to bother with. ruclips.net/video/WF6RPaFvCWE/видео.html
ESU Loksound V5 requires no extra capacitors needed for any style of LED lights. Furthermore, I can record and write any "specific" sound to the ESU decoder with the programmer without the obligatory hassle of JMRI., etc. The ESU programmer is cheaper than an unnecessary Athearn locomotive as well.
Last, but not least - Built in "keep alive" with latest ESU Loksound board. Their sound selection recordings are multiple, free, numerous and second to none. They also have built in short circuit protection. What more do I need to say - they run flawless out of the box - especially for the novice. Cheers ~ Boomer.
My first layout, built in the 80's was for streetcars and interurbans, handlaid code 70, single point switches in pavement, and scratchbuilt overhead wire. My second layout (a dieselized remnant of an interurban built on a hollow core door) was all MicroEngineering code 70. My third and current layout/diorama (1 x 6 foot shelf) was built with Peco code 75. So you can see I'm somewhat regressing as I get older! But on this current layout I not only hand-painted the rail, but also the ties to get better realism. And I varied the ballast in different sections to help with the scenic separation. I've purchased some code 88 wheelsets, but haven't used them yet. Boomer, have you noticed an difference in reliability of of the narrower wheels as they go over turnouts and such? Cheers from Wisconsin!
The beauty of the model railroad hobby is almost anything goes. I used to model Interurban stuff way back as well in 1/48 scale. I still have alot of overhead hardware for the wire, poles, etc. I used to scratch build "Art Deco" poles for Interurban layout out of brass. The nice thing about pulling DC power from the trolley wire is no shorts on the turnouts because the track is negative and the overhead wire is positive They are on two different circuits, etc. In fact, I have a powered truck and resin kit for a small interurban car in O scale as well which I will probably look at after River Road - if it ever ends. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama I used a live overhead in HO scale. I wish I had DCC and KeepAlives back then! If I could have a do-over, I'd go O scale, too. Perfect for traction modelling!
@@andrewpalm2103 You raise some good reasons to revisit traction and overhead power with the advent of DCC and "Keep Alive." - not to mention sound as well.😁
code 100 is 156 pound pensy main track. code 83 is 132/36pound rail code 70 is 115 pound. code 55 is 100 pound. code 40.is 80 pound. ur code 40 is spot on.
Thank you!
nice example switch operation ! Bast regards from Russian raillroaders !!!
Cool! The "wide" guage rail in Russia? Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
@@boomerdiorama Yes, 1520mm our gauge ruclips.net/video/BBko4rkiWX8/видео.html
My experience of having 6 or 7 different manufactures of locomotives, standardizing on a decoder brand is a good idea. I am personally a Soundtrax person, but I know what can be done with ESU. I speed match locos so everything in my fleet can run in any consist. If you can get an Accutrack speedometer it makes life a lot easier.
I haven't dived into code 70 and 55, I build turnouts but haven't gone for hand laying large sections of rail. Maybe at some point, I need to build a layout for myself at some point.
Actually, I find it easier to build smaller code turnouts, especially code 55. I think it's because less heat is required, filing etc. The larger code is probably the best way to learn on though.
How's the fingers healing up? It's good to have you back O'l buddy.
It is healing well. Thank you!
Boomer, at 0:20 you zoomed in down the tracks and I noticed a small trackside shed that almost looks like an old scale house. Do you know what that is? It has the 5mph sign on it which I also found interesting as I would of thought it would have been km.
You are correct. It's a weigh scale shack. Even though this is a Canadian Railroad (formerly B.C. Hydro Rail - Southern British Columbia Rail), it is owned by an American (Dennis Washington) who also owns Montana Rail Link. That might explain the sign because SRY adopts equipment, etc. from MTR so anything is possible. It could also be left over from the old Trapp Yard era before Canada adopted the Metric system in the 70's.
Excellent graffiti work on those boxcars!
Thank you. Graffiti only on one side.😁
Here is a video demonstration of smaller code rail and hand-lay ties etc. ruclips.net/video/rEeA6KCcko8/видео.html
Do you adjust tie spacing when using different code track or how do you choose your rail spacing?
It looks like the ties on the painted code 70 are spaced farther apart than on the unpainted code 70. Is that just an optical illusion or did you alter the tie spacing on purpose?
If I hand lay smaller code rail within the establish scale I usually space the ties farther apart as they would with the prototype. But then it all depends on the situation. The moment you press the dogma is when you see different in the real world sometimes in unusual situations. As a general rule though, I space yard and siding ties just under every second tie apart from the main line ties - but not always. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama Thanks for the reply. And I really enjoyed hearing the prototypical sounds being used under the model locos running.
Happy New Year 2023, Boomer! Well thanks to this and a few of your other track videos, I went and bought couple of handfuls of HO code 55 flex and a bunch of code 55 rail in anticipation of building a small switching layout. I was contemplating n scale with code 40 ( built a few n scale code 40 switches to get my feet wet. Man, that rail is tiny! ) but in my opinion, in N scale, the code 40 rail just doesn't convey the heft of the trains like the code 55 and code 40 in HO scale does. Thanks as always for recording and sharing your methods!
Dominic
Great choice! Code 55 Rail in HO Scale is awesome indeed. I will probably lay more Code 55 on River Road because it looks fantastic like you say. Cheers and have fun. ~ Boomer.😁
YES! Scale speed! I just picked up an Accutrack speedometer to get an idea as to how close I am to being at scale speed. Nothing drives me crazier than people who run at full power equating 150 mph scale speed.
Do you have a tutorial of how to transition from one code size to another? Is there anything special you do to make it an invisible/prototypical transition?
ruclips.net/video/rEeA6KCcko8/видео.html
thanks again for the tips. the 88 look more prototype.
I wouldn't disagree, although I prefer the lowest common denominator Code 70. I also thing Micro Engineering Ties and rail profile looks sharper than Atlas Track. I still like the smaller code rail for sidings, yards etc. It looks really good live and up close. ;-)
I'm sorry when I said the 88 I was prefer referring to the the profile of the wheels the new smaller Wheels.not the rail. I like the lighter rail@@boomerdiorama
You sure poked a bear commenting about decoders. I'll add my opinion to not standardize on one. On my N scale layout, I like my Loks (Select Direct/Micro) , I like my Soundtraxxs (Sound Value, Econami, Tsunami, and Tsunami2), I like my BLIs. I hate the one MRC but haven't built up the ambition to change it out. (I have no TCSs but the one guy who recently cited them as his favorite, I asked for specifics but he had nothing.) They all have something the others don't.
I agree, each to his or her own. TCS has the best "Horn Quill" sound bar none. I don't have time to program Tsunami 2. I don't mind TCS. I have several. I'm decided on ESU Loksound V5 though and for good reasons.😁
Stunning. Exceptionally well done. (The switcher, however, needs a crew…. Just sayin’)
Thank you. Maybe one day!😁
@@boomerdiorama I handlaid some 40 in the yards for the very purpose of staging photos, and the difference from 70 is amazing. I find that even painted 100 is too big, it makes the gauge look too narrow.
Sorry I haven't by in a while we had a ... little dealing... with a Hurricane named Ian. A very nasty nave indeed. House and car were both flooded and car probably totaled. We have electricity and A/C back - hurray! Still can't get potable water from the tap. Others' have it 10x worse so I have noting but thanks.
Oh man that sucks! Sorry to hear that. I hope things get better soon . . . jeesh.
Great Job, I love the attention to detail-Subscribed!
is the prototype yard along a tributary of the Fraser River and that is the Queensborough Bridge up above? I lived in that area and drove over the Queensborough Bridge every day on my way to work in Richmond...many years ago.
Thank you for the sub! Yes. The prototype SRY Rail Link classification ("Trapp") yard in New Westminster, is on the north shore of the north arm of the Fraser River under the Queensborough Bridge.😁
The .088"Finescale Wheel Treads look so much closer to prototype than the standard. However, because the .088" is narrower than the standard tread, do you experience more derailments or do they fair just as well as the standards? Just curious.......
Yes indeed, they look awesome if you are a discerning modeler. They look the best on tank cars and reefers. Most of my boxcars I'll keep default but the tankers and reefs I will change over to .088" wheel sets. If the track work and turnouts are in guage according to the NMRA they don't derail.😁
😊
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"Code 100 is more reliable"
I've been doing this since the seventies, and I have never once seen rail height play a role in reliability. Where does this idea come from?
Practical reality in a particular context - like buried track, heavy ballast, etc. It's also easier to clean without damaging the right-of-way details etc.
Boomer, great informative video!
Question: do you have a standard width between tracks that you use, or just lay track to whatever fits the scene?
Thanks
Minimum 13' scale feet with Tangent (straight parallel track). I go wider on this layout @ 15' center-to-center because all the track is layed curved. There is very little tangent except on the Barge slip where I layed it @ 13' feet center.
I am planning to build my first shelf layout based on a Canadian scenario. I have purchased a few pieces of HO scale rolling stock and two switchers in CP and CN colours. I am in the UK so eBay is my only source at the moment. I need to change the numbering on the loco’s. Could you recommend a web site I could purchase the correct font decals and company (red) paint colours please?
Congratulations on your new build. Here is a great source for decals (Micro Scale Industries): www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=RRD
great video, thankyou. Where was this filmed please? Would like to look at google maps 8) Happy Christmas!
earth.google.com/web/search/Annacis+Island,+Delta,+BC/@49.19836638,-122.94549982,7.80258448a,238.32985384d,35y,-31.94877165h,0.67996997t,0r/data=CoQBGloSVAolMHg1NDg1ZDhjMGVmZmUzODY5OjB4NGMyNThiMjcwNDNiMmI0ZhkvoYLDC5ZIQCETY_Q3fLxewCoZQW5uYWNpcyBJc2xhbmQsIERlbHRhLCBCQxgBIAEiJgokCdZtEtDEskhAETL0rzTIiUhAGSnXw4zwl17AIR046mE7117A
Ok, I’m pretty new to all this stuff but I’m building a very small diorama (2.5’ x 4’) and want to use the most realistic track. I don’t want to build the track myself but I do want it to look realistic. What do you recommend in HO scale?
Micro Engineering Code 70 Rail. They also have matching turnouts. The Micro Engineering Company was just purchased by a very passionate family who have exciting plans as well. The future looks bright for ME so you can't go wrong, They are also planning to release # 8 Turnouts as well with the same fidelity as their track. Furthermore, ME Track is more rigid than other flex track for example, but just google up bending (curving with a block of wood) ME Flex track and you will be fine. Cheers ~ Boomer. 😁
@@boomerdiorama I have ME code 70 track and turnouts. I think it looks great. 👍 Cheers - Bill.
Boomer, I got a kodachrome SD70 from Ebay and the railings were rusted so badly that I couldn't put them on the locomotive. What could I use to make new railings for it? Thanks.
How is your soldering skills? Try some .5 mm brass rod from K&S. Build up the railing on a jig with holes in it to stand it up. Solder file clean and paint. Or trey and find a set on E-Bay. I have found railing for obscure models on Ebay as well.
@@boomerdiorama Never soldered in my life but been wanting to. Thanks.
@@TheLocutus70 Hunt around some more on Ebay. You can find railings for that locomotive I am sure of it.
@@TheLocutus70 Never too late to try.😁
This is simply the most painstakingly detailed layout I've ever seen. It's absolutely gorgeous. I started to go in this direction many years ago, but I never quite got to this level of detail although in a few ways I came close. For me, anyway, your layout is the pinnacle of modeling. Your dedication to detail and reproducing the prototype shows a deep passion for what you're doing. A lot of guys get kind of lazy before bringing their layout to full fruition. It's so realistic that at times in the beginning of your video I had to rewind to be certain I wasn't actually looking at the real thing. Absolutely fabulous job. But if you're a true modeller I'm sure you could point out all the "flaws" and "shortcomings". You wouldn't be much of a modeller if you didn't. LOL 😂.
Thank you very much. I don't mind looking at the layout live. In fact, I enjoy it very much. On the other hand, viewing it under bright lights and through the lens of a camera it can be quite discouraging . . . lol. But then, that compels me to push the envelope a bit more. 😉 Cheers ~ Boomer.
OMG! I see SRY shots in New Westminster where I live, or we live.
😁
Is that the Atlas Mp15 or Athern Genesis?
It's the Atlas MP15. They are older models but they have the (Kato Drive) so they run like silk.
I'm a code 83 guy right now.
Go look at the earlier videos of Glover Road. It's all code 83 and it looks great! Nothing wrong with it.
@@boomerdiorama Just stating my current state. Wasn't meant to sound defensive. Sorry if it did...
@@redbarnz You never did. Never saw it that way. That is why I pointed you to Glover Road. It was all Code 83.😁
How’s the wound doing?
Great. I pulled the Suters today! Cheers.😁
hi, well now you have your derail, but why not find a place on you track where a tree has fallen on you track, så you vant use the line before you have been out and remove the tree. so you ar forced to take another rute.
Yes indeed. The derail.
Not to be stupid, But I do not see the difference. It all looks good.
Paint can deceive . . . lol. It shows more unpainted. ;-)