Please read the video description for additional information, tips and tricks, warnings, links and more. For everything else, please leave a comment down below. I will answer them ASAP! Thank you for watching!
Thanks! That was my goal. To make a series of videos that will remove all that guess work for people that are just getting into quads/hobby. It hard to do a step by step video that is detailed and interesting in the same time. People seems to like them so far, so I'm satisfied. :) Yeah, 18A ESC's are kinda on the edge. I wouldn't recommend anything under 25A in this configuration (on 3S battery). On 4S they will draw less current so you might get away with 18A ESC's but still...
Great video, as usual. But they are great not only for their visual appeal, but because you touch on specific details of the build that most first time Quad builders might not find anywhere else. I am kind of building along with you and strangely have picked the same components. I have run into two minor problems - I originally ordered 18 A Plush ESC (due to stock) and after testing found NTM motors draw 16 A at full throttle with 3S and 8X4.5 prop, so have 30 Amps on order.
It suppose to be quite a big difference. Most ESC's are not designed for use with multi-rotors. Multi-rotor systems require high refresh rate in order to make constant fine adjustments. Higher the refresh rate, more stable craft you have. Stock firmware on ESC's have relatively low refresh rate, but it's high enough for decent flying. With this programming card we are just changing some basic settings of the ESC. Even high timing that we set here is not all that great.
Hi I am new to Quadcopters, just got a HK SK450 with the KK2 board. If I update the firmware to the latest 1.5 version will I have to redo all the settings to get it to fly?
Another good video, i have since buying HobbyWing or Plush ESC's flashed them with SimonK's firmware so my programmer i have no longer works, it is a shame you cant do this with a Simonk firmware just to be more versatile. Keep the video's coming i like watching them, they are so cool.. :-)
I wouldn't suggest cut-off on LiPos at all. There is no reason to... Cut-off is designed to protect the battery. However, if it kicks in, you will crash the craft and that will destroy the battery and the craft. If you fly the LiPo under 3.3 V/cell you will destroy the battery but you will still have around 20% capacity to save the craft. So, it's always better to lose only battery, not both. ;) So, use voltage alarms, telemetry, OSD, timer... whatever... just land before you run out of juice. No protection beats responsible and careful pilot.
Hey, I'm having issues with my turnigy typ1 25amp programming card with my turnigy plush 25amp esc's. The lights all go red but it won't let me program anything and the buttons don't work. Ive tried 3 of the cards out too and there shouldn't be an issue with the escs as they beep and stuff and I've done nothing else with then since I bought them. Many thanks
In NiMh mode, the ECSs no longer beep the count of my cells in my lipo, is this okay? the manual that came with the card suggests i manually set the number of cells, but i like to switch between 3S and 4S and having to change the cell count manually before each flight would be tedious.
What is the difference between buying the toolstick and flashing BlHeli firmware vs. making these changes with the simple plush programmer shown here. I am planning a tricopter build and have my turnigy plush 18a esc's here waiting and have programmed them with my programming card like you have done here. Is there really any benefit to spending the 20 bucks to get a toolstick and flash blheli fw? Thanks for your input! great vids btw keep them comming.
I posted this on another video but wasnt sure if you check all videos. I think your videos are outstanding. Question, when plugging in the battery to FCB, does the quad have to be on a completely flat/level surface? The FCB is KK2.0 V1.5. Keep up the videos.
Not sure how Li-ion battery would work on a multi-rotor, but you can use it in any mode, LiPo or NiMh. Difference is that in LiPo mode you have so called cut-off where the ESC will cut the power if the battery drops under certain voltage. Since we don't want that, we use NiMH where this is not the case. So, you should use NiMH mode for Li-ion battery.
Not sure about Turnigy Plush programming card. However, every ESC can be programmed using Tx. It's a bit complicated, but if you follow your ESC manual you should be able to program it this way. So, programming card is not needed but it helps a lot.
Yep, these NTM motors are plenty powerful for this quad. Rule of thumb is that you need around twice as much thrust as your quad weights. We are talking almost 3 times as much so this should be OK.
..But, if you put BLHeli firmware (or SimonK on Atmega chips) you will basically get double the refresh rate. I've not yet done this, but according to many, difference is huge. It allows you to bump your PI settings higher without introducing oscillations. This will result in much more stable craft. I will definitely do this, but not using tool stick. I will use Arduino. Not only is cheaper, but I have access to one. I will make how to video on flashing SiLabs chips with BLHeli fw using Arduino.
Second problem was somehow I ended up with the "long" shaft version of the NTM 28-26 1200Kv motors - I may have screwed up when ordering... So, I need to cut off the "excess" un-needed prop, since it will hit the legs. In testing I found that the NTM 28-26 12Kv with an 8X4.5 SF prop and 3S battery produces 800 grams of Thrust at 16 Amps (with full battery). It drops to about 760 grams at 15 Amp as battery drains. The Plush 18's were running warm (115F) so I ordered Plush 30s - still waiting
Please read the video description for additional information, tips and tricks, warnings, links and more. For everything else, please leave a comment down below. I will answer them ASAP!
Thank you for watching!
keep up the good work your videos have been extremely helpful to me since i've started building my quadcopter thanks man!!
Thanks!
That was my goal. To make a series of videos that will remove all that guess work for people that are just getting into quads/hobby. It hard to do a step by step video that is detailed and interesting in the same time. People seems to like them so far, so I'm satisfied. :)
Yeah, 18A ESC's are kinda on the edge. I wouldn't recommend anything under 25A in this configuration (on 3S battery). On 4S they will draw less current so you might get away with 18A ESC's but still...
Do those Plush 30A ESC defintely have Silabs chips in them? I want to order those ESC since I really want to try out the BLHeli firmware.
I bought a couple of these 2 weeks ago and they have SiLabs chips on them.
Great video, as usual. But they are great not only for their visual appeal, but because you touch on specific details of the build that most first time Quad builders might not find anywhere else.
I am kind of building along with you and strangely have picked the same components. I have run into two minor problems - I originally ordered 18 A Plush ESC (due to stock) and after testing found NTM motors draw 16 A at full throttle with 3S and 8X4.5 prop, so have 30 Amps on order.
It suppose to be quite a big difference. Most ESC's are not designed for use with multi-rotors. Multi-rotor systems require high refresh rate in order to make constant fine adjustments. Higher the refresh rate, more stable craft you have. Stock firmware on ESC's have relatively low refresh rate, but it's high enough for decent flying. With this programming card we are just changing some basic settings of the ESC. Even high timing that we set here is not all that great.
Hi I am new to Quadcopters, just got a HK SK450 with the KK2 board. If I update the firmware to the latest 1.5 version will I have to redo all the settings to get it to fly?
Another good video, i have since buying HobbyWing or Plush ESC's flashed them with SimonK's firmware so my programmer i have no longer works, it is a shame you cant do this with a Simonk firmware just to be more versatile. Keep the video's coming i like watching them, they are so cool.. :-)
Hey! Nice tutorial. Can you suggest right "cut off voltage" for Li-po battery? Is it the same schema as in description?
Thanks!
I wouldn't suggest cut-off on LiPos at all. There is no reason to... Cut-off is designed to protect the battery. However, if it kicks in, you will crash the craft and that will destroy the battery and the craft. If you fly the LiPo under 3.3 V/cell you will destroy the battery but you will still have around 20% capacity to save the craft. So, it's always better to lose only battery, not both. ;) So, use voltage alarms, telemetry, OSD, timer... whatever... just land before you run out of juice. No protection beats responsible and careful pilot.
Hey, I'm having issues with my turnigy typ1 25amp programming card with my turnigy plush 25amp esc's. The lights all go red but it won't let me program anything and the buttons don't work. Ive tried 3 of the cards out too and there shouldn't be an issue with the escs as they beep and stuff and I've done nothing else with then since I bought them.
Many thanks
good videos thanks!
BTW
why have you selected Ni-xx battery on the program, rather than Li-Po?
In NiMh mode, the ECSs no longer beep the count of my cells in my lipo, is this okay? the manual that came with the card suggests i manually set the number of cells, but i like to switch between 3S and 4S and having to change the cell count manually before each flight would be tedious.
Yes, this is OK, in NiMH you don't get the cell count beeps.
Hello, thanks for the great video. One question, what's the start mode and why you choose normal?
Greetings Andi
Please read the video description. ;)
eluminerRC Perfect, thanks a lot.
What is the difference between buying the toolstick and flashing BlHeli firmware vs. making these changes with the simple plush programmer shown here. I am planning a tricopter build and have my turnigy plush 18a esc's here waiting and have programmed them with my programming card like you have done here. Is there really any benefit to spending the 20 bucks to get a toolstick and flash blheli fw? Thanks for your input! great vids btw keep them comming.
Yep, I should have bought F30A or something with ATMEGA. I will in the future.
I'll keep them coming, thanks for the support.
I posted this on another video but wasnt sure if you check all videos.
I think your videos are outstanding. Question, when plugging in the battery to FCB, does the quad have to be on a completely flat/level surface? The FCB is KK2.0 V1.5. Keep up the videos.
No it does not, the quad only needs to be on a flat surface when calibrating acc from menu. :)
Will this Turnigy Plush programming card works on my SkyWalker-20A Brushless ESC for Multi-rotor Heli, If not any other way to do this ?
got it, thanks. Have you tried these Plush ESC's with BLheli or similar yet?
My kk board reset ESC to default, what should i do?
Does this have option of programing it for LI-ion Battery from Lipo since i want to use liion instead thanks
Not sure how Li-ion battery would work on a multi-rotor, but you can use it in any mode, LiPo or NiMh. Difference is that in LiPo mode you have so called cut-off where the ESC will cut the power if the battery drops under certain voltage. Since we don't want that, we use NiMH where this is not the case. So, you should use NiMH mode for Li-ion battery.
Not sure about Turnigy Plush programming card. However, every ESC can be programmed using Tx. It's a bit complicated, but if you follow your ESC manual you should be able to program it this way. So, programming card is not needed but it helps a lot.
Yep, these NTM motors are plenty powerful for this quad. Rule of thumb is that you need around twice as much thrust as your quad weights. We are talking almost 3 times as much so this should be OK.
my quad wobbles then flips on takeoff could this be sorted with these steps
Definitely try these steps. They should be done anyway!
thanks it was esc calibration, all fixed now i did each one separately and it did not work so then i did it through kk2.1 and all works great
..But, if you put BLHeli firmware (or SimonK on Atmega chips) you will basically get double the refresh rate. I've not yet done this, but according to many, difference is huge. It allows you to bump your PI settings higher without introducing oscillations. This will result in much more stable craft. I will definitely do this, but not using tool stick. I will use Arduino. Not only is cheaper, but I have access to one. I will make how to video on flashing SiLabs chips with BLHeli fw using Arduino.
Is programming necessary
Not yet, but very soon. ;) Will post a how to video about it!
Thanks. Please check the video description.
How i can set rotation with this card?
Tomáš Novák You can't. Just swap any to wires between motor and ESC to change rotation.
They are two separate things. Sorry for that! :)
Second problem was somehow I ended up with the "long" shaft version of the NTM 28-26 1200Kv motors - I may have screwed up when ordering...
So, I need to cut off the "excess" un-needed prop, since it will hit the legs.
In testing I found that the NTM 28-26 12Kv with an 8X4.5 SF prop and 3S battery produces 800 grams of Thrust at 16 Amps (with full battery). It drops to about 760 grams at 15 Amp as battery drains. The Plush 18's were running warm (115F) so I ordered Plush 30s - still waiting
plse somebody help me my kk board getting blank plse help me
Battery lipo or Ni-xx?
I JUKEBOX - Classic Band Ni-xx! Because you don't want LiPo cut-off to kick in.
eluminerRC Ok Grazie
You make it sound like timing and refresh rate are related.
cool, look fwrd to it :)