The selvage of modern fabrics is completely different from that of older fabrics. On modern fabrics, each line of weft is a separate thread, which is why the selvage is so fuzzy, whereas on older fabrics the weft is one continuous thread. This means that on modern fabrics, the selvage is weak, and prone to fraying if you cut off the fuzz, whereas on older fabrics the selvage is just as strong as the rest of the fabric.
I'm a seamstress and, first off, fabric bolts come in both continuous thread and fuzzy. Depends on the fiber content and weave, not on old and new methods. Second, it is absolutely the opposite case. If you cut off the fuzz just outside of the one seam that is stitched there, it holds. Whereas, if you cut the selvage of a continuous thread, it will go and go and go unless you are super careful to cut the thread at the top of bottom of the fabric OR use pinking shears
@@ragnkja obviously. But it is possible to cut off what you call the "fuzz" without cutting the stitch that creates it. Like cutting your nails just beyond the quick and not to the point where you would make yourself bleed.
@@tsarinaromanov2641 thanks you!! I apreciate that a lot. I'm in the proces of cutting the bonning for the mock up, i scare because according to my calculations i need 10 metres, so i buy that and im trying to see how its goes.
@@alexispablo6854 if you look at the metal plate that is under the foot, it has measurement markings. Get some coloured tape and put it at the front edge of the machine and in line with the marking you want to use. That way as you feed the fabric through, you can keep it lined up with the tape. This should help you to learn how the lines work as well as practice how to hold the fabric.
As a beginner in sewing(that is maby a bit over my head with trying to do historical clothing) , this is very helpful. You make it very easy to understand and follow. ❤
I really appreciate your videos, especially on evenings like tonight when I’m mending tons of little holes in the kids’ mosquito nets. Very important, but mind numbingly boring. Thanks for helping to alleviate some of the boredom!
Thanks for your videos, Morgan! I learned quite a bit from them in order to make my own Ren Fest costume! And I agree...multiple mockups are the best way to fit a pattern. That's what saved my wedding dress!
Well, I'd put down my sewing projects for quite a long while, but now I'm back in! Finally finished my linen shift (only had one seam go wrong; dang those intersecting underarm seams!) but I'm not fixing it; it's time to move on to making my stockings. (You know a video tutorial is a good one when it's still the gold standard for making that item years later!) And yes, I'm also a fan of your newer videos, but I'll be using these old medieval ones to make pretty much my whole medieval wardrobe. Now I'm off to buy some cling wrap and hunt for cheap mockup fabric 🙂
Really interesting. Makes me wonder if I could use some of these methods to make regular, modern, knit socks. I'd love to make my own socks, but I don't knit, so I need to figure out a way to sew them. Will keep this video in mind when I decide to be brave.
You look like you stepped out of a painting at the end!! And thank you for such an informative video. It’s so helpful to see *why* certain techniques are or could be used.
I have two pairs of Viking age "hose" stockings to make this winter. A bit different but lot of it the same. It was great to see how you did these. I'll also have to weave 4 wide leg bands to held them but that's lower in priority
I have a pattern for chausses and a pattern for 'hose' that are just stockings like in this video. Cut out pieces for the chausses but haven't put them together yet. Have to make my braies first but I decided it was important to start with my hood for some reason 😂
I love your videos so dearly! I've been going in order and have hand-sewed both a chemise and St. Birgitta's cap! I can't afford enough linen to make all of these, but have been using soft cotton muslin which is as close as I can get :)
The tape method is great since it takes out a lot of the guesswork in pattern making! I think it would be a good method for any close fitting or tight clothing, like bodices, hats, gauntlets, etc, but not so good for loose flowy things like billowy blouses or long skirts.
Also remember that men also wore long stockings during at least the high medieval period because long pants weren't quite a thing I myself want to sew myself a nice set of hose
Maya, I don't have a video tutorial for this dress, but I do have a Blog dress diary, check it out here: www.morgandonner.com/2015/10/merchant-class-outfit/
I need to make some one day for faire lol I normally go with out stockings but it might be smart to make some maybe it will keep the dust off my feet a bit more
SallowedSkies I almost always by my wool in person, either in thrift stores if I'm lucky, or fabric Merchants at events, or if I desperately need something specific and don't mind paying extra for it, then I'll go to a proper fabric store. In general, I really like to feel and see the fabric in person so I can tell if it will be too thick or thin for the garments I have in mind. That said, there are a few things you can try when searching online: Melton fabric is typically wool, it is medium to thick weight, and has a fluffy brushed surface. Look at these specific listing, if it says that it is suitable for a heavy coat, then it might not be the best choice for a dress. I tried to stick with medium weights for most garments. Two common descriptors are either woolen or worsted. Woolen is fluffy, while worsted is hard and smooth. Both are perfectly fine, but I personally strongly prefer woolen fabric because I feel it 'reads' better as wool, while worsted feels more modern. I typically avoid any fabric that is described as 'suiting wool', it doesn't appeal to me, too thin and smooth. If you're looking for a specific site recommendation, then RenaissanceFabrics.Net is great! Their fabric is not cheap, but it's honestly also not expensive, quite reasonable all around.
Where do you get your woollen fabric from?I would love to make clothing from 100 percent wool and 100 percent linnen, but can't find it in 'ordinary' fabric shops
I prefer to get my wool in person if at all possible, since I like to be able to feel it before purchasing. I have had good luck with haunting thrift and second-hand stores, and with shopping at merchants attending medieval events. Occasionally, if I need a specific color, I will try eBay, but I will only buy if it's so cheap that I won't mind if it's not what I'm looking for.
I have made several pairs for shoes, but none of them ever came out as nicely as these! I purchased them in person at a medieval event/fair, and I'm afraid I don't know where you can purchase them online :/ Sorry I couldn't help you out more!
@@MorganDonner I''ll have to freeze frame and get a good look at them. I have made a similar pair of of rust-colored suede using a pattern and inspiration from Sharon Raymond at ETSY. She has several books that make it very easy to do. I plan to make another pair soon.
I'm wondering the fate of mock ups. A leg seems to need a considerable amount of material, but don't know if you make many things that are needing smaller amounts of fabric.
Some people are more or less sensitive, and some have a wool allergy. If you perspire a lot, or are sensitive, perhaps seek out alternative fabrics, or a thin lining inside.
Rebekah-Chris S-K I judge more by feel than precise type, but that said, a medium weight woolen plainweave is usually my go-to. I know some people who like to make theirs out of gabardine or other worsted wools, but I prefer fuzzier fabrics. Linen works, but tends to wear out a little faster.
I had a remnant of really funky colored mustard yellow-green overcoat weight wool that matched nothing, so used that to make stockings. They are great for cold weather events or camping at night. I believe I pre-washed the wool before cutting, and they turned out so soft and warm!
Hi Morgan, as I couldn‘t find another possibility to contact you I try my best here. First of all I would like to thank you for your informative and funny videos . Without them I would not have started the project of recreating a 16th century gown based on the original drawing . As I will give a lecture about the dress and historical background soon I do not have time left to make stockings and like to ask of you would kindly grant permission to use a photo of yours for the lecture. Thanks and greetings from Germany. Karin
I am more in to knitting and crochet,(I do sew but need a pattern can't make my own), did they knit the stockings back in the day, if yes what would they have be knit our of I'm guessing fine wool.
bias of fabric is the diagonal line between the vertical and horizontal threads of the weave. Find a hankerchief or bandana and look very closely at it. The hemmed edges should be "on grain" = parallel to the threads of the weave. Now fold that bandana into a triangle. The folded edge is the "bias grain" of the fabric. Tug gently along the bias grain - it is much stretchier than when tugging on a fold of fabric parallel to the side of the bandana. That stretch along the bias is what Morgan is using to help with the fit of the stocking.
The selvage of modern fabrics is completely different from that of older fabrics. On modern fabrics, each line of weft is a separate thread, which is why the selvage is so fuzzy, whereas on older fabrics the weft is one continuous thread. This means that on modern fabrics, the selvage is weak, and prone to fraying if you cut off the fuzz, whereas on older fabrics the selvage is just as strong as the rest of the fabric.
I'm a seamstress and, first off, fabric bolts come in both continuous thread and fuzzy. Depends on the fiber content and weave, not on old and new methods. Second, it is absolutely the opposite case. If you cut off the fuzz just outside of the one seam that is stitched there, it holds. Whereas, if you cut the selvage of a continuous thread, it will go and go and go unless you are super careful to cut the thread at the top of bottom of the fabric OR use pinking shears
@@lisettegarcia
If you cut the selvage, you no longer have the strength of the selvage.
@@ragnkja obviously. But it is possible to cut off what you call the "fuzz" without cutting the stitch that creates it. Like cutting your nails just beyond the quick and not to the point where you would make yourself bleed.
Me: can't sew, has no interest in period clothing, is too broke to even try this hobby, is legit afraid of sewing machines.
Is subscribed.
Same. Also afraid of sewing machines. Just start my very first proyyect. A corset, a f****** corset!!!
@@alexispablo6854 You are a braver soul than I.
@@tsarinaromanov2641 thanks you!! I apreciate that a lot. I'm in the proces of cutting the bonning for the mock up, i scare because according to my calculations i need 10 metres, so i buy that and im trying to see how its goes.
@@tsarinaromanov2641 the sewing machine its getting into my nerves!!! LOL, i don't understand why can't keep a straight line, they are meant for thay
@@alexispablo6854 if you look at the metal plate that is under the foot, it has measurement markings. Get some coloured tape and put it at the front edge of the machine and in line with the marking you want to use. That way as you feed the fabric through, you can keep it lined up with the tape. This should help you to learn how the lines work as well as practice how to hold the fabric.
As a beginner in sewing(that is maby a bit over my head with trying to do historical clothing) , this is very helpful. You make it very easy to understand and follow. ❤
I am glad! :D
She's great isn't she!
I'll never do historical sewing (I don't think) but just love watching Morgan!
I really appreciate your videos, especially on evenings like tonight when I’m mending tons of little holes in the kids’ mosquito nets. Very important, but mind numbingly boring. Thanks for helping to alleviate some of the boredom!
Thanks for your videos, Morgan! I learned quite a bit from them in order to make my own Ren Fest costume! And I agree...multiple mockups are the best way to fit a pattern. That's what saved my wedding dress!
this is much better to know how people makes stockings with fabric than me struggling with nalebinding them! Thanks!
That blue dress you're wearing in the outro is glorious 😍
Well, I'd put down my sewing projects for quite a long while, but now I'm back in! Finally finished my linen shift (only had one seam go wrong; dang those intersecting underarm seams!) but I'm not fixing it; it's time to move on to making my stockings. (You know a video tutorial is a good one when it's still the gold standard for making that item years later!) And yes, I'm also a fan of your newer videos, but I'll be using these old medieval ones to make pretty much my whole medieval wardrobe. Now I'm off to buy some cling wrap and hunt for cheap mockup fabric 🙂
Really interesting. Makes me wonder if I could use some of these methods to make regular, modern, knit socks. I'd love to make my own socks, but I don't knit, so I need to figure out a way to sew them. Will keep this video in mind when I decide to be brave.
RubyLovesRocket Good luck! I hope this helps!
Adorable stockings - and extra bonus for me - the link for the Czech website seems very practical ❤️
You look like you stepped out of a painting at the end!! And thank you for such an informative video. It’s so helpful to see *why* certain techniques are or could be used.
Wow, how cool was that! Yay you!!! Have a great day!
I have two pairs of Viking age "hose" stockings to make this winter. A bit different but lot of it the same. It was great to see how you did these. I'll also have to weave 4 wide leg bands to held them but that's lower in priority
I have a pattern for chausses and a pattern for 'hose' that are just stockings like in this video. Cut out pieces for the chausses but haven't put them together yet. Have to make my braies first but I decided it was important to start with my hood for some reason 😂
Hurray for old timey sock how to video thanks for the info
Love your videos. I've been looking for something like them for years.
Beautifully done. I admire your industriousness.
Wow this is absolutely fascinating! I don't think I've ever seen someone figuring out how to make this! Great job!
LilyoftheValeyrising Thank you for all your comments and feedback today, I appreciate it!
I love your videos so dearly! I've been going in order and have hand-sewed both a chemise and St. Birgitta's cap! I can't afford enough linen to make all of these, but have been using soft cotton muslin which is as close as I can get :)
That's a fascinating pattern making method! What other patterns could you make using duct tape?
The tape method is great since it takes out a lot of the guesswork in pattern making! I think it would be a good method for any close fitting or tight clothing, like bodices, hats, gauntlets, etc, but not so good for loose flowy things like billowy blouses or long skirts.
Halfway done making a Burgundian style gown, trying this next
Excellent tutorial, Morgan! Thank you!
Wow, so impressive!
That sock of silvery tape at the beginning looks very sci-fi. lol
Also remember that men also wore long stockings during at least the high medieval period because long pants weren't quite a thing
I myself want to sew myself a nice set of hose
Thank you so much! I've been looking for a way to make some of these for AGES!
Do you have a tutorial for the dress you showed at the end of the video? If no I would really love it if you showed us a tutorial❤️
Maya, I don't have a video tutorial for this dress, but I do have a Blog dress diary, check it out here: www.morgandonner.com/2015/10/merchant-class-outfit/
I wonder if these could be elongated to create thigh high stockings to clip onto a garter belt.
I really like this video. Thank you so much! Really easy to follow
Awww, thank you! So glad to hear that it's followable, def show me if you make your own stockings!
I need to make some one day for faire lol I normally go with out stockings but it might be smart to make some maybe it will keep the dust off my feet a bit more
anyone else notice the rosie the riveter look she was sporting
This is Liutgard, waving hi!
Hi there!
duct tape patterns are a really good idea
clothings really illustrates architectural technology (household insulation), invention (synthetics), and climate change.
What type of wool do you use for making your garments? Whenever I try to look up just "wool" it only ever takes me to felt...
SallowedSkies I almost always by my wool in person, either in thrift stores if I'm lucky, or fabric Merchants at events, or if I desperately need something specific and don't mind paying extra for it, then I'll go to a proper fabric store. In general, I really like to feel and see the fabric in person so I can tell if it will be too thick or thin for the garments I have in mind.
That said, there are a few things you can try when searching online: Melton fabric is typically wool, it is medium to thick weight, and has a fluffy brushed surface. Look at these specific listing, if it says that it is suitable for a heavy coat, then it might not be the best choice for a dress. I tried to stick with medium weights for most garments.
Two common descriptors are either woolen or worsted. Woolen is fluffy, while worsted is hard and smooth. Both are perfectly fine, but I personally strongly prefer woolen fabric because I feel it 'reads' better as wool, while worsted feels more modern.
I typically avoid any fabric that is described as 'suiting wool', it doesn't appeal to me, too thin and smooth.
If you're looking for a specific site recommendation, then RenaissanceFabrics.Net is great! Their fabric is not cheap, but it's honestly also not expensive, quite reasonable all around.
@@MorganDonner I would think the itch factor would come into play for stockings.....is this wool itchy? Or maybe my skin is just sensitive...
Merci beaucoup!!!
Where do you get your woollen fabric from?I would love to make clothing from 100 percent wool and 100 percent linnen, but can't find it in 'ordinary' fabric shops
I prefer to get my wool in person if at all possible, since I like to be able to feel it before purchasing. I have had good luck with haunting thrift and second-hand stores, and with shopping at merchants attending medieval events. Occasionally, if I need a specific color, I will try eBay, but I will only buy if it's so cheap that I won't mind if it's not what I'm looking for.
Morgan, what shoes do you wear? Do you make them yourself?
I have made several pairs for shoes, but none of them ever came out as nicely as these! I purchased them in person at a medieval event/fair, and I'm afraid I don't know where you can purchase them online :/ Sorry I couldn't help you out more!
@@MorganDonner I''ll have to freeze frame and get a good look at them. I have made a similar pair of of rust-colored suede using a pattern and inspiration from Sharon Raymond at ETSY. She has several books that make it very easy to do. I plan to make another pair soon.
Okay is there a video on the blue dress at the end?
I'm wondering the fate of mock ups. A leg seems to need a considerable amount of material, but don't know if you make many things that are needing smaller amounts of fabric.
Hi, how are the garters made? Is it just platted wool or something like that.
Can you do a vid on that grey gean dress you wear
Can't imagine wearing wool next to the skin! (though it does sound nice and warm) Doesn't it scratch?
Some people are more or less sensitive, and some have a wool allergy. If you perspire a lot, or are sensitive, perhaps seek out alternative fabrics, or a thin lining inside.
So what type of wool do you recommend using for such stocking also what weight or would linen be OK as well?
Rebekah-Chris S-K I judge more by feel than precise type, but that said, a medium weight woolen plainweave is usually my go-to. I know some people who like to make theirs out of gabardine or other worsted wools, but I prefer fuzzier fabrics. Linen works, but tends to wear out a little faster.
Morgan Donner why do prefer the fuzzed type woolens over the worsted types?
I had a remnant of really funky colored mustard yellow-green overcoat weight wool that matched nothing, so used that to make stockings. They are great for cold weather events or camping at night. I believe I pre-washed the wool before cutting, and they turned out so soft and warm!
Rebekah-Chris S-K I like the fuzzy texture more than the smooth feel of worsted wools!
Hi Morgan, as I couldn‘t find another possibility to contact you I try my best here. First of all I would like to thank you for your informative and funny videos . Without them I would not have started the project of recreating a 16th century gown based on the original drawing . As I will give a lecture about the dress and historical background soon I do not have time left to make stockings and like to ask of you would kindly grant permission to use a photo of yours for the lecture. Thanks and greetings from Germany. Karin
I am more in to knitting and crochet,(I do sew but need a pattern can't make my own), did they knit the stockings back in the day, if yes what would they have be knit our of I'm guessing fine wool.
Queen Elizabeth I had very finely knit stockings from Spain, I believe. Very fine thread so they must have taken a long time to knit.
How were silk stockings?
I really want to make stockings so bad with some of my fabric which is all scrap pretty much
9:48 "don't keep sewing all the way to the edge of the fabric" - why shouldn't l?
morgan make a medieval cloak
🧦
Can someone really dumb biases down for me? I can't figure it out at all
bias of fabric is the diagonal line between the vertical and horizontal threads of the weave. Find a hankerchief or bandana and look very closely at it. The hemmed edges should be "on grain" = parallel to the threads of the weave. Now fold that bandana into a triangle. The folded edge is the "bias grain" of the fabric. Tug gently along the bias grain - it is much stretchier than when tugging on a fold of fabric parallel to the side of the bandana. That stretch along the bias is what Morgan is using to help with the fit of the stocking.
@@derrith1877 thank you!
Traditional Chinese Stockings are similar but better, easier to make. Unfortunately there's not enough interest