Gel stains are definitely heavier pigmented/concentrated and will last longer without "aging" per say however it really also depends on the top coat & sun exposure. I used mixwax stain but a special marine coating that lasts years without flaking, cracking, or hazing away. Maintaining the doors is a must, or else one must refinish which is lots of work and expensive. Every 3-4yrs lite sanding and topcoat.
@David's West Coast Painting thanks. I've purchased old masters gel stain and total boat spar varnish. But I really like the water base Minwax solid color stain I bought from lowes, but Minwax email & said not to use no matter what top coat.
@D R minwax water base solid color is like a paint, you will not see the wood grain but can be used directly without the need of a primer. What are you trying to achieve? Is it a door, fence or? Solid, semi-solid are usually water base but mostly used for fences, decks, gazebos etc...
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 exterior side of wood doors( mahogany). Dont want a light tint to the stain. Tried 3 coats oil base penetrating, just didn't get dark enough to make look black. Want the solid paint look but without painting . Want to be able to tell it's a real wood door
What’s the recipe for conditioner.? Will be using on wood that’s been painted over white and not wanting resend it off. Was told to try a gold/tan color for first coat then apply old masters walnut gel stain using old brush Mimi I g wood grain appearance and let dry 24 hrs. Said not to wipe off ? I’m not wanting real dark color on stair stringer and railings rather lighter tone to compliment hickory floors Advice?
Basically what you are trying to do is get the floors looking like they are stained without removing the existing paint. I don't recommend that route but if and when thinking outside the box, this is perfect. Yes, you will need a basecoat/solid color in the tan/litebrown, in a matte or eggshell finish; do not go flat as te flat paint won't allow to apply and remove stain as easily as eggshell. Apply gel stain and that is really to your taste and imagination. No right way or better/best way other than testing different basecoats with gel stain colors and see which one you like. You then must seal it and mix wax carries clears for floors, can't go wrong but keep in mind that you must prep those floors really well else it will fail sooner rather than later. Good luck and have fun...no easy way but there is a way(s).
From the manufacturer of our exterior door: “Do not use wood conditioners prior to staining mahogany, oak, cherry. Conditioner is good on woods with wild grain variations and most softwood products. On hardwoods, it most often seals the wood and prevents your stain from doing its job and penetrating the wood grain. Your finishes will tend to be light and off color.”
That is very true, basically hardwoods are typically very tight grain and no need for conditioner, but clients wanted a subtle stain and avoid as much blotches as possible and therefore the conditioner. My mix I can add or remove the strength of the conditioner so I did that.
Beautiful door!
Thank you!
Nice work!!🤩👷🏽♂️👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Nice work!! You mentioned a recipe for your wood conditioner. Would you mind sharing that?
Thanks for the videos.
Butiful ❤
I can't find Old Masters Red Mahogany stain by Minwax but they do have "Red Mahogany"..Is this the same as old masters Red Mahogany?
I would say that NO, they are not the same. They might look slightly different but only see the difference when you have them side by side.
Im pretty sure there is a mix up here friends. Minwax is one company and Old Masters is another. But they both do have Red Mahogany
I was told only use gel stain for door exterior, then top coat. What kind of stain was that and how long does it last
Gel stains are definitely heavier pigmented/concentrated and will last longer without "aging" per say however it really also depends on the top coat & sun exposure.
I used mixwax stain but a special marine coating that lasts years without flaking, cracking, or hazing away. Maintaining the doors is a must, or else one must refinish which is lots of work and expensive. Every 3-4yrs lite sanding and topcoat.
@David's West Coast Painting thanks. I've purchased old masters gel stain and total boat spar varnish. But I really like the water base Minwax solid color stain I bought from lowes, but Minwax email & said not to use no matter what top coat.
@D R minwax water base solid color is like a paint, you will not see the wood grain but can be used directly without the need of a primer. What are you trying to achieve? Is it a door, fence or? Solid, semi-solid are usually water base but mostly used for fences, decks, gazebos etc...
@@davidswestcoastpainting8510 exterior side of wood doors( mahogany). Dont want a light tint to the stain. Tried 3 coats oil base penetrating, just didn't get dark enough to make look black. Want the solid paint look but without painting . Want to be able to tell it's a real wood door
@D R why don't you try Ebony or dark walnut or a combination of both or one coat after the other.....
What’s the recipe for conditioner.? Will be using on wood that’s been painted over white and not wanting resend it off. Was told to try a gold/tan color for first coat then apply old masters walnut gel stain using old brush Mimi I g wood grain appearance and let dry 24 hrs. Said not to wipe off ? I’m not wanting real dark color on stair stringer and railings rather lighter tone to compliment hickory floors Advice?
Basically what you are trying to do is get the floors looking like they are stained without removing the existing paint. I don't recommend that route but if and when thinking outside the box, this is perfect. Yes, you will need a basecoat/solid color in the tan/litebrown, in a matte or eggshell finish; do not go flat as te flat paint won't allow to apply and remove stain as easily as eggshell. Apply gel stain and that is really to your taste and imagination. No right way or better/best way other than testing different basecoats with gel stain colors and see which one you like. You then must seal it and mix wax carries clears for floors, can't go wrong but keep in mind that you must prep those floors really well else it will fail sooner rather than later. Good luck and have fun...no easy way but there is a way(s).
From the manufacturer of our exterior door: “Do not use wood conditioners prior to staining mahogany, oak, cherry. Conditioner is good on woods with wild grain variations and most softwood products. On hardwoods, it most often seals the wood and prevents your stain from doing its job and penetrating the wood grain. Your finishes will tend to be light and off color.”
That is very true, basically hardwoods are typically very tight grain and no need for conditioner, but clients wanted a subtle stain and avoid as much blotches as possible and therefore the conditioner. My mix I can add or remove the strength of the conditioner so I did that.
What stain and topcoat did you use on the exterior?
Nice as always!
Did you use oil or water based clear on it?
I used DEFT
SATIN FINISH oil base.
is it possible to get your conditioner recipe and what stain color you used on this door?
👀🤩👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
👍👍👍👍👍
This is more easily done if you take 5 minutes to take the door off the hinges.
Thats just your opinion, people do stuff indifferently