Great job on explaining the process and safety cautions of the suspension work, the video, the audio and the editing. Anyone looking for the torque specs coming straight from an original 1992 Mazda Miata Workshop Manual. Torque Spec Range: 1: 22-27 ft-lbs 2: 22-27 ft-lbs 3: 54-69 ft-lbs 4: 34-49 ft-lbs 5: 54-69 ft-lbs 6: 27-40 ft-lbs
Nice video, and well explained. Thank you, I must point out that the fact that the shock does not come out as fast as the new one, that does not prove the schok is not good any more,. The spring takes care of bringing it back up. when the shock goes in too fast is no bueno. or if at the bottom of the shock rod, where it rides most of the time, it has a spot where it goes in quick and comes out quik. That is where most of the shocks show their wear. Because that is where most of the ride of the car puts the stress on the shock
Part of the reason behind the high final ride height is likely from torquing the lower strut bolts with the suspension arms at full sag. I know you mentioned you couldn't pre-load the arms with a jack due to the lift having the car so high in the air - and strongly suggested an alignment - but I wouldn't trust that a shop would loosen and retorque those bolts as part of the alignment. A good idea would have been to preload the arm by lowering the car onto a jackstand (like you did to attach the rear knuckle to upper control arm) before torquing the lower bolts. (I generally do this job with my Miata on jack stands, using a floor jack and wooden blocks to lift the suspension arm until the car just comes off the jack stand before torquing.)
Hi, could you please update the description with the torque specs? I’m really excited to work on my dad’s old Miata but all these different things I need to work on are really intimidating thinking about it all at once.
just checked with my buddy who has probably put 10-15K miles on them and he said they don't absorb super well but are better on smooth roads than his 25+ year old original springs. They are a little firm on bumps tho.
23:20 HOW did you get this in there without compressing it? I am having a hell of a time without a spring compressor. I have seen ways to take it out without a compressor but not reinstall it. The Sundae Drive
Pete had to put a lot of downward force on the lower control arm to get clearance while I put it in place. It may be more challenging with different springs/shocks.
Question: On the rear, when reassembling (~20min mark) I can attach the lower control arm bolt (loosely), and raise the arm to reattach the upper bolt. I can't get the Hub to pivot inward enough to even be close to getting the bolt through. Any recommendations here? Is it possible something else is stopping me from getting it back together?
Super clear and helpful- thanks! I've a '90 NA in need of shocks and want to keep things factory-style as well. Did you go with KYBs over OEM to save $$? Was curious of the quality difference between the two.
Glad it was helpful! Considering the suspension was so old it's hard to know how it compares to brand new oem, I think he was struggling to find oem so he went kyb for close to stock feel
Great job on explaining the process and safety cautions of the suspension work, the video, the audio and the editing.
Anyone looking for the torque specs coming straight from an original 1992 Mazda Miata Workshop Manual.
Torque Spec Range:
1: 22-27 ft-lbs
2: 22-27 ft-lbs
3: 54-69 ft-lbs
4: 34-49 ft-lbs
5: 54-69 ft-lbs
6: 27-40 ft-lbs
Nice video, and well explained. Thank you, I must point out that the fact that the shock does not come out as fast as the new one, that does not prove the schok is not good any more,. The spring takes care of bringing it back up. when the shock goes in too fast is no bueno. or if at the bottom of the shock rod, where it rides most of the time, it has a spot where it goes in quick and comes out quik. That is where most of the shocks show their wear. Because that is where most of the ride of the car puts the stress on the shock
Part of the reason behind the high final ride height is likely from torquing the lower strut bolts with the suspension arms at full sag. I know you mentioned you couldn't pre-load the arms with a jack due to the lift having the car so high in the air - and strongly suggested an alignment - but I wouldn't trust that a shop would loosen and retorque those bolts as part of the alignment. A good idea would have been to preload the arm by lowering the car onto a jackstand (like you did to attach the rear knuckle to upper control arm) before torquing the lower bolts. (I generally do this job with my Miata on jack stands, using a floor jack and wooden blocks to lift the suspension arm until the car just comes off the jack stand before torquing.)
Great advice. I've also read that you could damage your the bushings if you don't preload the suspension prior to tightening.
Completely agree 💯💯 👍👍
To remove the front shock, just remove the upper control arm 21mm bolt, slide the long bolt forward. No prying or pulling a testicle.
Good tip! We can give that a shot next time
@@TheSundaeDrive so much easier if working alone.
Wish I had thought of this. Just did mine. Didn’t check the comments.. sigh
Hi, could you please update the description with the torque specs?
I’m really excited to work on my dad’s old Miata but all these different things I need to work on are really intimidating thinking about it all at once.
We will do our best to track them down - some are a bit of a challenge to find.
How are the Lesjofors springs comparing to the OEM ones? They are massively cheaper but I am worried about their ride quality and reliability.
just checked with my buddy who has probably put 10-15K miles on them and he said they don't absorb super well but are better on smooth roads than his 25+ year old original springs. They are a little firm on bumps tho.
23:20 HOW did you get this in there without compressing it? I am having a hell of a time without a spring compressor. I have seen ways to take it out without a compressor but not reinstall it. The Sundae Drive
Pete had to put a lot of downward force on the lower control arm to get clearance while I put it in place. It may be more challenging with different springs/shocks.
Question: On the rear, when reassembling (~20min mark) I can attach the lower control arm bolt (loosely), and raise the arm to reattach the upper bolt. I can't get the Hub to pivot inward enough to even be close to getting the bolt through. Any recommendations here? Is it possible something else is stopping me from getting it back together?
Super clear and helpful- thanks! I've a '90 NA in need of shocks and want to keep things factory-style as well. Did you go with KYBs over OEM to save $$? Was curious of the quality difference between the two.
Glad it was helpful! Considering the suspension was so old it's hard to know how it compares to brand new oem, I think he was struggling to find oem so he went kyb for close to stock feel
HI!!!!!! Are you in california?? Are you available to do repair??? I have a 90 that need new shocks!!!!
Please let me know!!! Thank you!!!!!!!!!!
We are on the other coast :(