Don’t leave those tabs hanging out on you counter flashing it looks ugly! Turn them around an inch or two and pop rivet them. Plus it’s better to use a short 2x4 over the top of the counter flashing when your banging it in so you don’t get hammer marks in the new metal. Just suggestions. Dope video dude
what do you mean ugly, those tabs go in the cut groove, there is no ugly when hidden. Also I do not like this tabs to hold the flashing permanently. They will never come out. It is better to send in the 90 degree bend without the 45 degree tabs and then wedge the flashing with some on inch wide folded up sheet metal. One can wedge as many places as needed. The wedges are permanent too but when need to pull out they can be pried out. Furthermore, if it was me when using a totally new blade, would cut a couple of inches into the bricks and then try it, dudes went all the way and put caulking in too without checking. Lesson learned, that is why I love RUclips. Smarts learn from others mistakes, fools learn from theirs.
@@lamrof I was referring to the corners, leaving the counter flashing long like that doesn’t look good. There are better ways to finish that off. I do sawcut reglet all the time so idk what your talking about smart guy
Pretty slick how they flashed that valley. 👊 one tip though maybe tell your guys when they tap that counter flashing in the groove to use a 2’ block of wood like a 2” X 4” or something. To help get that sucker in there with minimal damage. I like to use masonry blades that are a little wider but you’ll need 2 or 3 they wear out fast.
Mr Legit, use a much wider blade. Don't pound on your counter flashing with a hammer, use wood as it won't dent it up. Run Grace Ice and Water Shield around the chimney and up the brick surface 4". Before you use any caulking or mortar mix apply tape on the brick surface so you will end up with a straight line. Use a caulking knife and not your finger. There's still so much to learn. Check out other pros on youtube!!!
Just found you not too long ago. Good for you my man, happy to see someone trying to show people how to do things right. When you have guys Grind the chimney have one guy hold the blower facing away from the guy grinding (that helps with the dust settling where guys are stepping and sitting) Plus you definitely want to cover the new shingles with extra shingles so the brick dust doesn't mark up the new roof. Just put shingles tarline up all along the chimney and see the difference
You keep doing what you're doing man. If you're ever in Buffalo look me up at R and R pros roofing we can colab on a video of our winters lol Keep it LEGIT my brother
How is nobody mentioning the dope background 🎶 🎵 music 🎶🎵? Most Tool-Time videos don't have a DJ in the back spinning hits! Liked, commented & subscribed
Wow! I feel bad for the homeowner. This is what a "Mr. Legit Roofing Expert" says in the comments? "I wish we would have know this before lol. This is why we do not do counter flashings. Thanks for the info man." What kind of "roofing expert" does not do counter flashings? I hope you were joking when you made that comment Mr. Legit roofing expert.
Let alone sealing dusty mortar joints with caulk instead of mortaring the flashing in. And cutting a straight line down the chimney instead of stepping it down the descending joints.
just subbed. not very often you see someone do a legit flashing!!! thats exacty how i do it 4inch grinder with a 6 inch blade is the way to do it. try it! its hard to get deep enough with 4inch sometimes especially when you dont have smooth brick. try it
In Wisconsin, doing a counter flashing like this is totally wrong and illegal according to code. When you cut into the brick like that you take the integrity of the brick away. You cut the flashing into the mortar joint and step it down along the bricks. Fake ass flashing ass dudes. pshhh I'm doing one tomorrow ill send a video and pictures
you see those original grind outs and cut marks? how the old flashing was stepped into the mortar joints along the bricks? that's how you're supposed to do it.. and y'all aren't even using aluminum corners.. that shit gonna leeeeaaak lol probably using aluminum steps instead of galvanized too.. smh...
I assume you installed that roof , yes? The step flashing isn't tight and unnoticeable. The ugly short course isn't unnoticeable. On that chimney flashing, I pound that stupid lip straight and cut it so that only about an inch or 3/4 of an inch extends out. So it's way easier to pull out of the cut you made in the chimney if the cut isn't good enough. Then to install it to the chimney , put cawlking in the cut , put the flashing in the cut , then you have a bunch of 1 inch or so strips of scrap metal about a half inch or so wide depending on how deep the cut is and you shim those in each side of the flashing . might need to install 4 or 5 shims on top of each other. May take more or less depends on thickness of cut. And then cawlking on top of that. To do this technique takes a little time but way easier and cleaner. Maybe you can try this on your next counter flashing job.
@@MrLegit But, c'mon! Why would you make a video when you're still learning? You should be showing people HOW to do it, right! After you've gained some experience. Watching this appears as if it's your FIRST! Too narrow of a cut, Breathing IN all that silica dust! Pounding pounding with a hammer?? By cutting that brick, you're 'SCORING' it, and WAY too deeply. What happens when you SCORE brick? It cracks!! There are so many that do it correctly, but some first timers aren't going to know that. Great attitude, though!! I can see some good vids coming from you, but this isn't one of them!..sorry...
You really should take a water bottle poke a hole in the lid and wash out the dust and debris from inside the cuts. then dry it really well with a pvc welder. Other than that it looks about right.
Don’t listen to the haters. That flashing might work. Could look better but the birds won’t mind. The way I do a chimney is turn up my paper. Seal with mastic. Apron, step flash, then saddle. After that I cut out mortar joints and step up the counter flashing with shims. I stuff mortar back in the joints. I pop in rivers where they are needs. I wrap the counter flashing around corners also. Should have to beat anything with hammer except wedges made out of scrap. I learned this way for 3 very experienced roofers in San Francisco aka fog city. Always wet. Good content man. Can you give a video on your warranty packages and product warranty type stuff. Thanks
horrible job ...that bottom mortar was destroyed and all they did was pump more black dope in there...retarded hack work and the cuts are Way deep. if they did that to my chimney I would sue them
Don’t leave those tabs hanging out on you counter flashing it looks ugly! Turn them around an inch or two and pop rivet them. Plus it’s better to use a short 2x4 over the top of the counter flashing when your banging it in so you don’t get hammer marks in the new metal. Just suggestions. Dope video dude
Makes perfect sense. Yeah the hammer marks looked bad never though of the 2x4.
Rubber mallet works well too.
what do you mean ugly, those tabs go in the cut groove, there is no ugly when hidden. Also I do not like this tabs to hold the flashing permanently. They will never come out. It is better to send in the 90 degree bend without the 45 degree tabs and then wedge the flashing with some on inch wide folded up sheet metal. One can wedge as many places as needed. The wedges are permanent too but when need to pull out they can be pried out.
Furthermore, if it was me when using a totally new blade, would cut a couple of inches into the bricks and then try it, dudes went all the way and put caulking in too without checking. Lesson learned, that is why I love RUclips. Smarts learn from others mistakes, fools learn from theirs.
@@lamrof I was referring to the corners, leaving the counter flashing long like that doesn’t look good. There are better ways to finish that off. I do sawcut reglet all the time so idk what your talking about smart guy
Why not use rubber hammer to hit metal in with?
how deep into the brick are you cutting and will this weaken the chimney over time?
Should be about 3-4-1 inch deep, and should actually be stepped , ruins the strength of the chimney doing it this way
Cool video, but you guys really should be wearing good dust masks while making those cuts!
I’m a roofing salesman. I can say it’s a truly amazing craft. You have to work with what you have and adapt. Every job is different.
Must like noise and breathing that dust??? What's with the safety glasses???
Where do you get that counter flashing?
He said... "Lets Give the Roof a Nice BlowJob"......(4:19)
Pretty slick how they flashed that valley. 👊 one tip though maybe tell your guys when they tap that counter flashing in the groove to use a 2’ block of wood like a 2” X 4” or something. To help get that sucker in there with minimal damage. I like to use masonry blades that are a little wider but you’ll need 2 or 3 they wear out fast.
Mr Legit, use a much wider blade. Don't pound on your counter flashing with a hammer, use wood as it won't dent it up. Run Grace Ice and Water Shield around the chimney and up the brick surface 4". Before you use any caulking or mortar mix apply tape on the brick surface so you will end up with a straight line. Use a caulking knife and not your finger. There's still so much to learn. Check out other pros on youtube!!!
Thanks man, I wish we would have know this before lol. This is why we do not do counter flashings. Thanks for the info man.👌
What’s the average price do you think to have the chimney base flashing and counter flashing replaced?
If we're already out there we charge 200 for base 500 for counter obviously this is base pay. $700 to reflash a chimney (repair).
Have you guys wear dust mask bro to protect their lungs
Glasses fog too bad. Need a decent respirator.
Yes please have ur guys wear masks. That silica is going to kill ur people.
I've seen roofers not caulk the cuts, very nice video good install
Nasty job
It is bad job too
He had to use ice and water shield then make flashing metal sheet covering the roof
I think the correct nomenclature is “chase” for the crack for flashing.
Hey Mr. Legit. Im so happy you made this video. It was absolutely informative. I was just wondering how deep are we supposed to cut into that brick?
Just found you not too long ago. Good for you my man, happy to see someone trying to show people how to do things right.
When you have guys Grind the chimney have one guy hold the blower facing away from the guy grinding (that helps with the dust settling where guys are stepping and sitting) Plus you definitely want to cover the new shingles with extra shingles so the brick dust doesn't mark up the new roof. Just put shingles tarline up all along the chimney and see the difference
Danny my man! I'll call you next time I have a chimney. 🤣🤣🤣 Seriously though thanks for the tips man. We could have used it on this.
You keep doing what you're doing man. If you're ever in Buffalo look me up at R and R pros roofing we can colab on a video of our winters lol Keep it LEGIT my brother
This is well edited vid 😎
Have someone with the leaf blower shoot that dust out away from of the guy cutting.
How is nobody mentioning the dope background 🎶 🎵 music 🎶🎵?
Most Tool-Time videos don't have a DJ in the back spinning hits!
Liked, commented & subscribed
Wow! I feel bad for the homeowner. This is what a "Mr. Legit Roofing Expert" says in the comments? "I wish we would have know this before lol. This is why we do not do counter flashings. Thanks for the info man." What kind of "roofing expert" does not do counter flashings? I hope you were joking when you made that comment Mr. Legit roofing expert.
Let alone sealing dusty mortar joints with caulk instead of mortaring the flashing in. And cutting a straight line down the chimney instead of stepping it down the descending joints.
you can also double up your diamond blades if its too thin!!!! thanks for subbing to my mullet!!! lmao
Yeah bro, I need to do the 1 square challenge. You smacked it down on the 8:12 roof. Keep up the good work.
That's a good idea, double up.
@@MrLegit try the one square no shame!!!! were all just competing together!
@@Lifes_Apprentice I used to be a rocket, I'm getting old lol.
@@MrLegit i used to be faster i think too. im 34 and been roofing since 17 i used to be faster or maybe i just had a bigger head....lol
Put 2 Masonry blades on the grinder. Width is done !
All I will say is wow
No respirator? Silica exposure is killer. Take care of your men.
Probably wouldn't wear one even if he offered. Most of us don't care about that shit we gonna are die anyways 🤣🤣
You should really wear a high quality dust mask
just subbed. not very often you see someone do a legit flashing!!! thats exacty how i do it 4inch grinder with a 6 inch blade is the way to do it. try it! its hard to get deep enough with 4inch sometimes especially when you dont have smooth brick. try it
In Wisconsin, doing a counter flashing like this is totally wrong and illegal according to code. When you cut into the brick like that you take the integrity of the brick away. You cut the flashing into the mortar joint and step it down along the bricks. Fake ass flashing ass dudes. pshhh I'm doing one tomorrow ill send a video and pictures
you see those original grind outs and cut marks? how the old flashing was stepped into the mortar joints along the bricks? that's how you're supposed to do it.. and y'all aren't even using aluminum corners.. that shit gonna leeeeaaak lol probably using aluminum steps instead of galvanized too.. smh...
@@BaThInGaPeS4LyFe I agree, I hope there isn't snow where this roof resides or that shit-work will fall off the first winter
Great job 👍. Do you guys do any single ply roofing systems?
We have, but we stick to residential. We do the Deck Seal when we have a patio, but we don't market for commercial.
I assume you installed that roof , yes?
The step flashing isn't tight and unnoticeable. The ugly short course isn't unnoticeable.
On that chimney flashing, I pound that stupid lip straight and cut it so that only about an inch or 3/4 of an inch extends out. So it's way easier to pull out of the cut you made in the chimney if the cut isn't good enough. Then to install it to the chimney , put cawlking in the cut , put the flashing in the cut , then you have a bunch of 1 inch or so strips of scrap metal about a half inch or so wide depending on how deep the cut is and you shim those in each side of the flashing . might need to install 4 or 5 shims on top of each other. May take more or less depends on thickness of cut. And then cawlking on top of that.
To do this technique takes a little time but way easier and cleaner.
Maybe you can try this on your next counter flashing job.
Man, practice makes perfect. They do make flashing without those lips. Thanks for the tips I'll try it next time.
@@MrLegit But, c'mon! Why would you make a video when you're still learning? You should be showing people HOW to do it, right! After you've gained some experience. Watching this appears as if it's your FIRST! Too narrow of a cut, Breathing IN all that silica dust! Pounding pounding with a hammer?? By cutting that brick, you're 'SCORING' it, and WAY too deeply. What happens when you SCORE brick? It cracks!! There are so many that do it correctly, but some first timers aren't going to know that.
Great attitude, though!! I can see some good vids coming from you, but this isn't one of them!..sorry...
You really should take a water bottle poke a hole in the lid and wash out the dust and debris from inside the cuts. then dry it really well with a pvc welder. Other than that it looks about right.
I gave up and just caulked all around at the base. Seems like a lot of work for nothing.
Should probably put a 2x4 up against it next time instead of beating it with a hammer.
Wait you guys don’t even bend the corners!!! HACKS
I think that dust coming off that brick looks absolutely like lung cancer. I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder ,🤷
Don’t listen to the haters. That flashing might work. Could look better but the birds won’t mind.
The way I do a chimney is turn up my paper. Seal with mastic. Apron, step flash, then saddle. After that I cut out mortar joints and step up the counter flashing with shims. I stuff mortar back in the joints. I pop in rivers where they are needs. I wrap the counter flashing around corners also. Should have to beat anything with hammer except wedges made out of scrap.
I learned this way for 3 very experienced roofers in San Francisco aka fog city. Always wet.
Good content man.
Can you give a video on your warranty packages and product warranty type stuff. Thanks
LOL, " That flashing might work. "
horrible job ...that bottom mortar was destroyed and all they did was pump more black dope in there...retarded hack work and the cuts are Way deep. if they did that to my chimney I would sue them
Wow what a absolute mess. You should never use the hammer to beat the crap out of the metal. Scale of 1-10. 3 at best.
Use a grinder son
I would take this video down before one of your potential customers sees it
Ya he's a legit hack
Never cut through the brick. This is cheap, fast and will fail. Step down the mortar lines. You already know this
They destroyed that chimney ..HACK Work
Wrong song sing dong
Bodge job
that chimney look really bad
This is literally the shittiest counter flashing that I have ever seen.
Really? What would you hand changed? Also you "literally" sound like a 1 upper.
Yea, stick that broken mortar back in the hole, and CAULK THE FUCK OUT OF IT!
@@MrLegit don't ya love when people comment like that and have no videos on their channel showing their "correct" way of doing it 😂
@@nismojukerich2994 haters going to hate.
LMAO - those cuts are WAY too deep and not even done with a gauge...the bottom mortar is destroyed and crooked...hack work