You are gentle man, great job 🌹 The Explanations you give is extremely good and clear, Can you please explain how guaid cot work, becaus I can't see low and high, Again thank you
Great video I have 2? 1 Now you started with 1500 now usually you would go with maybe 2000 or 2500 grit but correct me if I'm wrong was you trying to Mach factory finish. ? 2 Is 1500 always the grit to Mach factory finish. thank you for a fantastic video really injoy your video you keep it short not that I mind even if it were a long video a big thanks
Good ? It's not the grit that matches factory finish it's how flat you sand it. Too much sanding = too mirror like. Too little sanding = orange peel. You have to judge. I usually use 1500 though for wet sanding before wheeling
I have a question about Orange Peel.You have multiple layers of paint, and 3 layers or clear coat.Is the orange peel a rippled layer of one or the other or both paint and clear.Or just an illusion of the layers and how light bounces off the valleys and peaks?When you wet sanding, I'm assuming your taking of a fine layer of clear coat, and basically smoothing the top layers as the light hits it evenly, and that's how you get the smooth look ??Just a beginner, but just trying to understand what exactly Orange Peel is, I've seen it, but don't really know what it is or what causes it.
Great ?. From my own experience... The first coat is a tack coat (has some orange peel). The second coat is medium to wet and the starts to "lay down" or "flow out". The following coats (I believe) "melt" in and it becomes one wet coat of paint. Paint comes out of the gun as thousand of globules of paint and they come together on the panel. If the paint is too dry it will not flow or lay down real well and cause orange peel. Real wet paint lays down nice (almost no orange peel) but then you increase the chance of running the paint. So it's a fine line. I think PPG and Dupont brand really flow out well but they're very expensive. If your paint job has a little orange peel don't worry, just wet sand it and wheel it out. Jerry
If you plan to wet sand, you need to be sure to spray at least 3 coats of clear. If you have extra coats, you can start with 1000. Goes faster that way.
Every painter I worked with wet sanded and buffed every job that left the building. You'll never had a problem buffing, polishing, waxing new paint. It has activator in it. Maybe your thinking of older lacquer based paints. Nice talking to you - have a great week :)
@@LakesideAutobody If you wax new paint it will look good for a while and after a short time it will go dull, Waxing a new paint job is not recommended. You must wait at least 90 days before waxing.
Lakeside Autobody is there anything to watch for when doing 2k clearover acrylic? How do I know if an acrylic needs clear over it or is it just an optional thing ?
@@benji816 Clear over single stage acrylic enamel is optional. The only time I use clear over single stage acrylic is with metallic paint. That way on the last coat I can give the met. paint a mist coat to even the flakes and not worry about if I have a few dry looking areas. I'd wait about an hour and give it a couple wet coats of clear - turns out real nice. As for 2k over acrylic enamel you wont have a problem if the product says you can do it but I usually use the clear that goes with the paint or stay in the product line - Here's something you may want to try also- www.paintforcars.com/product/paintforcars-starfire-acrylic-enamel-clear-coat-1-gal/
Lakeside Autobody thanks! Just wanted to confirm, in your video isn't the red single stage acrylic from a can and the clear is 2k? Or is the video just for demonstration? Just trying to get the concepts straight (pardon the pun) before I hit my panels
@@benji816 The red is actually lacquer and the clear doesn't state whether it is urethane or acrylic enamel - I'm assuming it is urethane though. The clear was only 42 bucks so I tried it out for demonstrations. I didn't have any problems with it - urethane over lacquer. If I spray a car I stay within the product line - I don't buy paint from this company and clear from another but it's done all the time so might want to do a test panel - let me know how it works and what you used - curious. Might do a video on it.
You can always use a block if you want. If the finish is already perfectly flat you are OK using it the way the video shows. It's up to you - sometimes it's just easier to use by hand - just don't sand parallel to your fingers - can make finger marks
Amazing videos. If you want more content have your son text me so i can throw you a idea of mine. That would bring you some video content... btw its luke idk if you remember me
Hey Luke - I remember you. Glad you appreciate the videos. I'd love for you to throw me an idea - any time, any ? - big or small. Just comment on any video 'cause I read and answer them every day. Hope all is well with you. Jerry
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Your videos are amazing.
I appreciate the kind words Anna :)
Show the whole car before and after. It would be much more fun to see it that way.
👍😊 Sort of like this? ruclips.net/video/E02yqM5RL58/видео.html
Excellent. Thanks for these clear and concise videos. I learn a LOT
Thanks and you're welcome my friend :)
Another great simply defined video; please keep bringing them I am learning a lot thanks to you; PATRICK.P
I will - I'm glad you enjoy them - Jerry
You are gentle man, great job 🌹
The Explanations you give is extremely good and clear, Can you please explain how guaid cot work, becaus I can't see low and high,
Again thank you
Thank you. What is it that you want me to explain. I don't understand the last part of your comment. Thank again :)
Great video I have 2? 1 Now you started with 1500 now usually you would go with maybe 2000 or 2500 grit but correct me if I'm wrong was you trying to Mach factory finish. ? 2 Is 1500 always the grit to Mach factory finish. thank you for a fantastic video really injoy your video you keep it short not that I mind even if it were a long video a big thanks
Good ? It's not the grit that matches factory finish it's how flat you sand it. Too much sanding = too mirror like. Too little sanding = orange peel. You have to judge. I usually use 1500 though for wet sanding before wheeling
I have a question about Orange Peel.You have multiple layers of paint, and 3 layers or clear coat.Is the orange peel a rippled layer of one or the other or both paint and clear.Or just an illusion of the layers and how light bounces off the valleys and peaks?When you wet sanding, I'm assuming your taking of a fine layer of clear coat, and basically smoothing the top layers as the light hits it evenly, and that's how you get the smooth look ??Just a beginner, but just trying to understand what exactly Orange Peel is, I've seen it, but don't really know what it is or what causes it.
Great ?. From my own experience... The first coat is a tack coat (has some orange peel). The second coat is medium to wet and the starts to "lay down" or "flow out". The following coats (I believe) "melt" in and it becomes one wet coat of paint. Paint comes out of the gun as thousand of globules of paint and they come together on the panel. If the paint is too dry it will not flow or lay down real well and cause orange peel. Real wet paint lays down nice (almost no orange peel) but then you increase the chance of running the paint. So it's a fine line. I think PPG and Dupont brand really flow out well but they're very expensive. If your paint job has a little orange peel don't worry, just wet sand it and wheel it out. Jerry
If you plan to wet sand, you need to be sure to spray at least 3 coats of clear. If you have extra coats, you can start with 1000. Goes faster that way.
@@WonTooForAte9 Right. 1 coat of HS equals 2 coats of MS or spot. Not many people shoot HS though.
@@WonTooForAte9 I don't have any trouble spraying it. You just need a gun that breaks it up right.
If you know how to paint you dont need to wet sand and polish and another thing you never put wax on fresh paint untill it cures at least 60days
Every painter I worked with wet sanded and buffed every job that left the building. You'll never had a problem buffing, polishing, waxing new paint. It has activator in it. Maybe your thinking of older lacquer based paints. Nice talking to you - have a great week :)
@@LakesideAutobody If you wax new paint it will look good for a while and after a short time it will go dull, Waxing a new paint job is not recommended. You must wait at least 90 days before waxing.
Great tips. Thank you,
Glad it was helpful!
Can you use this process with single stage? Thanks
Yes - I used to all the time in the 80's. Have to find clear that will be compatible w/ your paint though.
Good video with good results.
Thanks so much - glad you liked it.
Do you need to wet sand the red colour if you got orange peel in the base?
No - save that for the clear coat. Sanding color especially metallic paint could show in the clear.
Lakeside Autobody is there anything to watch for when doing 2k clearover acrylic? How do I know if an acrylic needs clear over it or is it just an optional thing ?
@@benji816 Clear over single stage acrylic enamel is optional. The only time I use clear over single stage acrylic is with metallic paint. That way on the last coat I can give the met. paint a mist coat to even the flakes and not worry about if I have a few dry looking areas. I'd wait about an hour and give it a couple wet coats of clear - turns out real nice. As for 2k over acrylic enamel you wont have a problem if the product says you can do it but I usually use the clear that goes with the paint or stay in the product line - Here's something you may want to try also- www.paintforcars.com/product/paintforcars-starfire-acrylic-enamel-clear-coat-1-gal/
Lakeside Autobody thanks! Just wanted to confirm, in your video isn't the red single stage acrylic from a can and the clear is 2k? Or is the video just for demonstration? Just trying to get the concepts straight (pardon the pun) before I hit my panels
@@benji816 The red is actually lacquer and the clear doesn't state whether it is urethane or acrylic enamel - I'm assuming it is urethane though. The clear was only 42 bucks so I tried it out for demonstrations. I didn't have any problems with it - urethane over lacquer. If I spray a car I stay within the product line - I don't buy paint from this company and clear from another but it's done all the time so might want to do a test panel - let me know how it works and what you used - curious. Might do a video on it.
I thought you were always supposed to use a block when sanding
You can always use a block if you want. If the finish is already perfectly flat you are OK using it the way the video shows. It's up to you - sometimes it's just easier to use by hand - just don't sand parallel to your fingers - can make finger marks
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you by the way amazing work on pulling that dent out of the mustang
@@leonardcrisci7254 You're welcome. Thanks - that's nice to hear. Have a great weekend :)
i like your work bench it look like it would save your knees.
You're right :)
You forgot to shine a light on it to show all the holograms you put in it lol
Do you mean wheel marks?
Amazing videos. If you want more content have your son text me so i can throw you a idea of mine. That would bring you some video content... btw its luke idk if you remember me
Hey Luke - I remember you. Glad you appreciate the videos. I'd love for you to throw me an idea - any time, any ? - big or small. Just comment on any video 'cause I read and answer them every day. Hope all is well with you. Jerry