Bro! I still remember my first 13B rebuild and that was back in 99! I wanted to cry when I wouldn’t fire up after throwing the 13B-DEI in the hole and just chalked it up to defeat after not finding out what the misstep originated and just eventually sourced a 13B-T:S5 and a new hood and tossed it in the hole. But that was at the turn of the century as a 19y.o.! I hope you don’t have to go through that but the resources available today are so much better than today, and I’m sure you’ll get it! I’m rooting for you to pull thru and hear it fire up and start off this Brap History Month w some flamage! Cheers my dude!
@@0luc83 now I have an '05 rx8 shinka. It was my 93 fd that I rebuilt twice , first one was a regular rebuild then the street port after.. that was like in 2005.. sold it for 10k but omg do I regret selling it.
@@10c-sheen Ijust woke up to switch parking sides. it's still holding up strong as the day I got it. Changed some things, took the side skirts off and ordered a trunk without that spoiler they come with so I can put a duck lip type of spoiler, I kinda like it more. It's one of those cars that you'll never see as an old car. Before the rx8 I was thinking about a Volkswagen Corrado but not being rear wheel drive was holding me back..I tried looking for this one Corrado that was made all wheel drive for 6 months but never found it.
I was so looking forward for this episode :( I wanted to see this engine live...fuck... Grabbed my head with both hands when I heard ZERO compression... See you on the next one.
My 1st rebuild back in 95 went the same way except my side seals clearance was wayyyy out of spec and too loose. Great thing about it is you learn ALOT more when you fail. Edit: Did you check the e-shaft end play? Anytime you change side plates, this measurement needs to be checked. Also too light of side seal clearance, will break your corner seals when the side seals expand. The side seal to corner seal clearance is the one thing many people don't get right on their 1st rebuild.
So true. Yes I did check end play with a dial indicator and it was in spec with the C spacer that was on the engine, so I didn't need a different spacer. This project has been a fantastic learning experience for me and I am so excited to dig back into another rotary engine in the future!
Dude I love the fact that you put a video up which ends unsuccessful! Really shows that this is part of life when you attempt projects like this. Keep going, I'm looking forward to see that engine run. Subscription earned!
I rebuilt my first rotary at 16 2 years ago and and idk if I got lucky but it’s running till this day with compression numbers of 100,102,99 front rotor and rear 100,99,98
Props to you for sharing this! Some people wouldn’t to save their pride. This is real life right here. Glad to see you keeping a positive attitude and persisting through the disappointment. It’ll be all the more rewarding once it is sorted.
Im glad that you are doing this before I do... Im going to attempt this this coming summer! You got this! But live by this quote "Every Tried - Ever Failed No Matter - Try Again Fail Again - Fail Better" -Samuel Beckett
Don’t give up you’re so close! The rotary shop I worked at had a bell housing with a starter motor and a compression tester for this exact reason. Pulling the engine again sucks, I feel your pain!
I just picked up an RX-8 & I've been following your series for the last couple weeks. This episode was heart-wrenching. I'm stuck on the edge of my seat waiting to know what is going to happen next week. I had no clue the episodes has been pre-produced & I'm curious if next weeks video is an up to date episode or whether it's still a few behind 'live'?
I did the exact same in august, rebuilt my renesis while porting and polishing almost everything, the one seal I didn’t replace was side seals, whoops... I’m now in the process of rebuilding it once again but at least I love doing it.... okay maybe like is a better term😂
Learning from experience is sometimes an ugly road. However, it does make you stronger. 👍🏻 Hopefully you’ll find the issue. Lots of suggestions in the comments here. Great to see so many rotary enthusiasts helping out. 👏🏻
Side seal tolerances should be .004". Any less, and as you said, your springs will bind up and you will lose compression. Personally, I will never rebuild one of these engines, I'd just buy a known good second hand one and do an engine swap. Next time you do rebuild this engine, manually crank it to make sure you hear compression noise from the spark plug holes before reinstallation.
people run .002 a lot now and some even run 0 gap between side seals and corner seals without any issues (I wouldn't though). regardless, the smaller the gap without the side seal binding, the better because you will get less blow by.
@@mischiefpwns everyone I come across I say the same thing, don't take my word for it, always do your research. But Ive been neck deep in the rx7/8 community for a long time, people sometimes take the .004 as the standard, but what they dont know that that is the maximum tolerable clearance from Mazda. the true tolerance levels for side seals on a renesis range from .0015 to .004. I've heard people on the rx7 forums running 0 clearance, but the only reason why I would say their bullshitting is because the seals expand when they heat up, meaning their seals are definitely binding against the corner seals at operating temps. Again, always do your research, you can double check me if you wish, the less accidental misinformation we have in the community the better these motors will become :)
@@SirPsychonautic I guess won't really know if that's the problem until he pulls the engine apart. I would think the side seals weren't clearanced right and they are binding. That's my best guess since he has no compression.
bro you did it nice sometimes things dont work they way we want, but you did it great i want to buy a rx8, but the engine is what scare me a little bit jajajaja
Another thing I noticed besides the stat gear o ring ( which you may or may not of put in.. hard to see on camera) was you using new housings but them irons in the build video didn't look so hot... not that they are bad per say but just not very will prepared. There is a very good write up on the internet..( id have to find it) for preparing used irons. I used it and I also rebuilt my first rotary and 10k miles later were still going strong... despite the fact I would of liked better side seal clearances. If I find it ill link it to this comment. Another thing you could do when you get it apart is get a straight edge like a metal ruler or something like that and put it across the irons in 3 sections long ways and check with a feeler gauge... there is also a spec on that too. Might as well do everything you could while it's apart again. best of luck sir!
Did you fit and file the springs for the apex seals or just insert and slide? I remember something about having to file them down a bit..... they come a tad oversize
Damnn i felt that. You literally changed faces when the starter turned freely with no resistance. Try to turn your focus more on the seals next time, its the a to z for these motors
Sadly I had a feeling that would be the case. Definitely no compression pulses.. Side seals need to be properly clearanced and aren't just a drop-in item. Just means one more thing you have learned more about the rotary.
this comment...... gold. this is something that is always overlooked when people do their first rebuild. plus theres so much misinformation out there its hard to find out what to do and what not to do.
I just fall in love with rx8, i fuck all the hates on it i just love how its simply and exotic it is at once. first i dont like the chassic but now when im older its fuckin amazing i love jdm cars and i want always honda civic 6g (1.6 1.5) but its FWD and its like deathbox in my state we cannot put frame in it becaouse law bihhh im going work whole year to buy it and im mekanik :") so i dont know if i going to buy one from solid price or buy cheaper and build the engine but i like the idea to build it cuz i will know 100% whats good about the engine and how healty it is i will be happy if you can give me some advance or somethning. One more time i love jdm cars but i want RWD car with some little bit power to have some fun and exercise and learn to earn some skill...bruh im kinda rappin sorry for my english guys i hope you understand im just lost my mind what im goint to text im high as fuck ...Zzzz
If you took out battery and pluged in before you started the engine, you need to press brake pedal 20 times with ignition on and then the computer will restart
Yes I clearanced the side seals myself. I used a 2 thou feeler gauge which made it very difficult to use in the specific way that I did it. I have since learned from my mistake and I am ready to rebuild another engine correctly!
@@mokokawi Use the feeler gauge and put it between the corner seal and side seal (with springs under both). Push down the side seal and if it sticks down, it needs to be ground down more. If it pops back up, it is at the correct clearance. It is also super important to make sure the cut on the side seal is perpendicular to the length of the side seal. This will insure it is not longer on the top than the bottom, causing it to stick in the downward position. That was the problem that I had with this rebuild.
Rebalancing a rotary is only necessary when changing to rotors that are two letter weights away from the rotor you're replacing. Since he was able to re-use the same rotors, re-balancing isn't necessary.
@@rotaryperfection In the teardown video he showed the trashed rotor and said he got a new/used one. He never mentions the lettering, so I don't know if he's aware of this. He never mentions the letter on either rotor. I agree if you are keeping the factory rotating assembly components, and as long as you are keeping to the stock RPM limit, no balancing is necessary.
@@rotaryperfection Hey yeah so I replaced the old front rotor with a new one which was the same weight (both C weight rotors). This is a street car so there will be no crazy RPMS, so no need to balance the assembly. I could be wrong, but I believe you really only need to balance the RX7 rotors that have the material drilled out on the front and rear of the rotors. The RX8 rotors do not have any material removed, indicating that they were not balanced the same way from the factory.
Let's just say I am so glad now that I went through that. I learned even more the second time around than the first time! I firmly believe that you learn best through mistakes you make yourself, and this project was no exception to that.
Sorry to watch bad news. As it was indicated in the other videos, there are thinks you don’t show us and in the assembly process there were failures like that oring in the rear stationary gear. It was said, and I say again: Take time to show measurements and assembly process. Good luck.
When you clearanced the side seals did you use four 0.002in feeler guages at the same time? All these clearances must be checked at the same time. Note pressing down one side seal doesn't indicate if it is too tight. Remember that the whole face of the rotor gets compressed when the engine is torqued down. Each seal may not bind on its own, but every seal compressed may bind (gets worse once things expand from heating up) Side Seal clearance image. cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/775986188037128222/807679866941603930/unknown.png Other than that you most likely lost compression from: -the used rotors having warped/bent apex grooves. (generally replaced at 120k miles) Also did you get matching weight rotors? They are stamped with a letter system -used irons being worn unevenly (can be lapped) -Slow engine assembly (if the silicone sealer starts to harden before the tension bolts are torqued down the sealer adds thickness)
all rotary engines start with low compression,they dont start gaining compression till about 500km,usually hot start problems,thats why the break in period is so important
Авто/Мото
Wow that was brutal, your honesty in this build is much appreciated and will help others when rebuilding. Looking forward to the tear down again
Bro! I still remember my first 13B rebuild and that was back in 99! I wanted to cry when I wouldn’t fire up after throwing the 13B-DEI in the hole and just chalked it up to defeat after not finding out what the misstep originated and just eventually sourced a 13B-T:S5 and a new hood and tossed it in the hole. But that was at the turn of the century as a 19y.o.! I hope you don’t have to go through that but the resources available today are so much better than today, and I’m sure you’ll get it! I’m rooting for you to pull thru and hear it fire up and start off this Brap History Month w some flamage! Cheers my dude!
Dude you make me feel like I want to pull out my engine out and replace with all new parts. Just for fun
That is like the best part of having a rotary engine, I rebuilt mine like 3 times already and the feeling never changes
@@RX-8GT What car do you drive?
@@0luc83 now I have an '05 rx8 shinka.
It was my 93 fd that I rebuilt twice , first one was a regular rebuild then the street port after.. that was like in 2005.. sold it for 10k but omg do I regret selling it.
@@RX-8GT how's the rx8 holding up
@@10c-sheen Ijust woke up to switch parking sides. it's still holding up strong as the day I got it. Changed some things, took the side skirts off and ordered a trunk without that spoiler they come with so I can put a duck lip type of spoiler, I kinda like it more.
It's one of those cars that you'll never see as an old car. Before the rx8 I was thinking about a Volkswagen Corrado but not being rear wheel drive was holding me back..I tried looking for this one Corrado that was made all wheel drive for 6 months but never found it.
Uufffff that hurt. Ok i am waiting very much to see.
I was so looking forward for this episode :(
I wanted to see this engine live...fuck...
Grabbed my head with both hands when I heard ZERO compression...
See you on the next one.
My 1st rebuild back in 95 went the same way except my side seals clearance was wayyyy out of spec and too loose. Great thing about it is you learn ALOT more when you fail.
Edit: Did you check the e-shaft end play? Anytime you change side plates, this measurement needs to be checked. Also too light of side seal clearance, will break your corner seals when the side seals expand. The side seal to corner seal clearance is the one thing many people don't get right on their 1st rebuild.
So true. Yes I did check end play with a dial indicator and it was in spec with the C spacer that was on the engine, so I didn't need a different spacer. This project has been a fantastic learning experience for me and I am so excited to dig back into another rotary engine in the future!
@@JapandaTuning Keep at it! It's an addictive hobby when you start learning all the little things. 👍
Time lapse R-n-R if I may suggest, with real time specifics on "helpful hints" good luck on the second time around, I'm rooting for you.
Dude I love the fact that you put a video up which ends unsuccessful! Really shows that this is part of life when you attempt projects like this. Keep going, I'm looking forward to see that engine run.
Subscription earned!
I look forward to these every Saturday lol
I rebuilt my first rotary at 16 2 years ago and and idk if I got lucky but it’s running till this day with compression numbers of 100,102,99 front rotor and rear 100,99,98
Props to you for sharing this! Some people wouldn’t to save their pride. This is real life right here. Glad to see you keeping a positive attitude and persisting through the disappointment. It’ll be all the more rewarding once it is sorted.
Im glad that you are doing this before I do... Im going to attempt this this coming summer! You got this! But live by this quote
"Every Tried - Ever Failed
No Matter - Try Again
Fail Again - Fail Better"
-Samuel Beckett
Your dedication is legendary.
Don’t give up you’re so close! The rotary shop I worked at had a bell housing with a starter motor and a compression tester for this exact reason. Pulling the engine again sucks, I feel your pain!
great video!
I just picked up an RX-8 & I've been following your series for the last couple weeks.
This episode was heart-wrenching. I'm stuck on the edge of my seat waiting to know what is going to happen next week.
I had no clue the episodes has been pre-produced & I'm curious if next weeks video is an up to date episode or whether it's still a few behind 'live'?
Great job with the throttle house looking intro. Your videos are looking more professional over the years
I did the exact same in august, rebuilt my renesis while porting and polishing almost everything, the one seal I didn’t replace was side seals, whoops... I’m now in the process of rebuilding it once again but at least I love doing it.... okay maybe like is a better term😂
Hey man, I just bought a 13b NA FC RX7. Your channel inspired me to daily Rotaries and live by em
Oooffff, I was pumped for the start... Then that starter motor sound....
That was unexpected ... cant wait till to next week to see how this turns out.
Learning from experience is sometimes an ugly road. However, it does make you stronger. 👍🏻
Hopefully you’ll find the issue. Lots of suggestions in the comments here. Great to see so many rotary enthusiasts helping out. 👏🏻
If I was In your shoes I would have lost it and gave up, on the other hand my hat goes out to you for your dedication and tackling this again man
I love this channel can’t wait to get my rx
Did you eventually get the RX?
Side seal tolerances should be .004". Any less, and as you said, your springs will bind up and you will lose compression. Personally, I will never rebuild one of these engines, I'd just buy a known good second hand one and do an engine swap. Next time you do rebuild this engine, manually crank it to make sure you hear compression noise from the spark plug holes before reinstallation.
yeah its deff good to turn it over couple times to hear how it sounds....
people run .002 a lot now and some even run 0 gap between side seals and corner seals without any issues (I wouldn't though). regardless, the smaller the gap without the side seal binding, the better because you will get less blow by.
@@SirPsychonautic on an RX8 engine? I'd be worried about springs binding below .004.
@@mischiefpwns everyone I come across I say the same thing, don't take my word for it, always do your research. But Ive been neck deep in the rx7/8 community for a long time, people sometimes take the .004 as the standard, but what they dont know that that is the maximum tolerable clearance from Mazda. the true tolerance levels for side seals on a renesis range from .0015 to .004. I've heard people on the rx7 forums running 0 clearance, but the only reason why I would say their bullshitting is because the seals expand when they heat up, meaning their seals are definitely binding against the corner seals at operating temps. Again, always do your research, you can double check me if you wish, the less accidental misinformation we have in the community the better these motors will become :)
@@SirPsychonautic I guess won't really know if that's the problem until he pulls the engine apart. I would think the side seals weren't clearanced right and they are binding. That's my best guess since he has no compression.
search on google for the term "0 clearance side seals"
What a smart kid
bro you did it nice sometimes things dont work they way we want, but you did it great i want to buy a rx8, but the engine is what scare me a little bit jajajaja
Where you buy the housings?
I'm in the middle of clearancing side seal right now. 😬 Really hope I get it right. I have a 1 month deadline
Another thing I noticed besides the stat gear o ring ( which you may or may not of put in.. hard to see on camera) was you using new housings but them irons in the build video didn't look so hot... not that they are bad per say but just not very will prepared. There is a very good write up on the internet..( id have to find it) for preparing used irons. I used it and I also rebuilt my first rotary and 10k miles later were still going strong... despite the fact I would of liked better side seal clearances. If I find it ill link it to this comment. Another thing you could do when you get it apart is get a straight edge like a metal ruler or something like that and put it across the irons in 3 sections long ways and check with a feeler gauge... there is also a spec on that too. Might as well do everything you could while it's apart again. best of luck sir!
Just got to keep Reving and reving it tills it starts.
Nah lol. Unless you want a bunch of fuel in there
@@TexasVexes you can press gas pedal and have de-flooding built in
Did you fit and file the springs for the apex seals or just insert and slide? I remember something about having to file them down a bit..... they come a tad oversize
Damnn i felt that. You literally changed faces when the starter turned freely with no resistance. Try to turn your focus more on the seals next time, its the a to z for these motors
Hope it starts next time...
Whats Up dude, amazing series
Dude, were did you bought all the components?
Ppl really disliked this just because it didn’t start smh. Good luck for next rebuild!
Sadly I had a feeling that would be the case. Definitely no compression pulses..
Side seals need to be properly clearanced and aren't just a drop-in item. Just means one more thing you have learned more about the rotary.
this comment...... gold. this is something that is always overlooked when people do their first rebuild. plus theres so much misinformation out there its hard to find out what to do and what not to do.
@@SirPsychonautic nothing the official rebuild manual from Mazda wont fix. Oh well.
The time has come 😃🥃.
Check their spec with a micrometer
You should do an omp delete or install a sohn adapter for that fresh engine and see how long it lasts vs a standard rx8
Not that i have never done so pretty sketchy thing but man safety first
First! From Greece with love💙
Παντού υπάρχει κι ένας Έλληνας
When are you going to do a 13b Rew swap
that lift scares me lol
I just got coconut malled
I just fall in love with rx8, i fuck all the hates on it i just love how its simply and exotic it is at once. first i dont like the chassic but now when im older its fuckin amazing i love jdm cars and i want always honda civic 6g (1.6 1.5) but its FWD and its like deathbox in my state we cannot put frame in it becaouse law bihhh im going work whole year to buy it and im mekanik :") so i dont know if i going to buy one from solid price or buy cheaper and build the engine but i like the idea to build it cuz i will know 100% whats good about the engine and how healty it is i will be happy if you can give me some advance or somethning. One more time i love jdm cars but i want RWD car with some little bit power to have some fun and exercise and learn to earn some skill...bruh im kinda rappin sorry for my english guys i hope you understand im just lost my mind what im goint to text im high as fuck ...Zzzz
Can you level out the volume of the music/voice scene a bit better please love the videos!
Damn when was these videos made?
How long did it all take? Because I'd like to rebuild one as well but I need to find a place to do it. Would it be doable in one weekend?
Sucks. Bought some Merch, hope that helps brother!
Crazy! So you filmed that months ago?! You must have a stock pile of videos then huh?
What tv show intro did you copy not hating it just hits the nostalgia
uhhh... so sad, so many work ! i hoop the best for the next try... Gruß Stephan
If you took out battery and pluged in before you started the engine, you need to press brake pedal 20 times with ignition on and then the computer will restart
Where'd the next video?
Use the occasion to street port it :p
you knew that street porting shot in the intro had to show up somewhere in the series, right??
I don't remember if you said or not, but did you do the side seal clearancing yourself? Or did you buy the pre-clearanced side seals?
Yes I clearanced the side seals myself. I used a 2 thou feeler gauge which made it very difficult to use in the specific way that I did it. I have since learned from my mistake and I am ready to rebuild another engine correctly!
@@JapandaTuning which way are you going to do it... I need to know how, so I don't just use my feeler gauges
@@mokokawi Use the feeler gauge and put it between the corner seal and side seal (with springs under both). Push down the side seal and if it sticks down, it needs to be ground down more. If it pops back up, it is at the correct clearance. It is also super important to make sure the cut on the side seal is perpendicular to the length of the side seal. This will insure it is not longer on the top than the bottom, causing it to stick in the downward position. That was the problem that I had with this rebuild.
@@JapandaTuning thanks alot man...I'll save this for builds I do
So many wrong things in the rebuild, but my English si bad ; what side seals clearance do you have ?
Was it just my impression that the videos were shot and posted about the same time ?
With the new rotor, I would think about getting the rotating assembly balanced while you have it apart.
Rebalancing a rotary is only necessary when changing to rotors that are two letter weights away from the rotor you're replacing. Since he was able to re-use the same rotors, re-balancing isn't necessary.
@@rotaryperfection In the teardown video he showed the trashed rotor and said he got a new/used one. He never mentions the lettering, so I don't know if he's aware of this. He never mentions the letter on either rotor. I agree if you are keeping the factory rotating assembly components, and as long as you are keeping to the stock RPM limit, no balancing is necessary.
@@SeanFlaherty Hmm guess I missed that earlier explanation.
@@rotaryperfection Hey yeah so I replaced the old front rotor with a new one which was the same weight (both C weight rotors). This is a street car so there will be no crazy RPMS, so no need to balance the assembly. I could be wrong, but I believe you really only need to balance the RX7 rotors that have the material drilled out on the front and rear of the rotors. The RX8 rotors do not have any material removed, indicating that they were not balanced the same way from the factory.
Wow that must have really sucked knowing you had to pull it right back out
Let's just say I am so glad now that I went through that. I learned even more the second time around than the first time! I firmly believe that you learn best through mistakes you make yourself, and this project was no exception to that.
I need help with a mazda rx8 in Uganda
Sorry to watch bad news. As it was indicated in the other videos, there are thinks you don’t show us and in the assembly process there were failures like that oring in the rear stationary gear.
It was said, and I say again:
Take time to show measurements and assembly process.
Good luck.
Asi de bien lo habra reparado que no prende😂😂😂
Hello g
When you clearanced the side seals did you use four 0.002in feeler guages at the same time? All these clearances must be checked at the same time. Note pressing down one side seal doesn't indicate if it is too tight. Remember that the whole face of the rotor gets compressed when the engine is torqued down. Each seal may not bind on its own, but every seal compressed may bind (gets worse once things expand from heating up)
Side Seal clearance image.
cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/775986188037128222/807679866941603930/unknown.png
Other than that you most likely lost compression from:
-the used rotors having warped/bent apex grooves. (generally replaced at 120k miles) Also did you get matching weight rotors? They are stamped with a letter system
-used irons being worn unevenly (can be lapped)
-Slow engine assembly (if the silicone sealer starts to harden before the tension bolts are torqued down the sealer adds thickness)
all rotary engines start with low compression,they dont start gaining compression till about 500km,usually hot start problems,thats why the break in period is so important
Im I late?