I live in a terrace house. My only solution is wait for next door's kid to grow up. They run and do a big jump on the first floor. Sending vibrations through my 1st floor floor board to the other side of my house 😅
Well done. Explained it perfectly. Like, and will remember the soda pop example for judging thickness. Tell me, plans ahead for distributors in the U.S.?
Great video! The best!! What kind of board did you use for the back of the frame? How do you fix the frame to the wall and floor? Are you using any klips between the frame and the wall/floor? Do you place any material to isolate the frame from the wall & floor? How do you close the gap between the frame and the wall? thanks for your advise !!
Hi Thanks for the comment and questions. 1. Board on the back depends on your situation. If you are building this in front of an existing wall, then don't put anything on the back, leave the mineral wool exposed. If it's for a stand alone stud wall (separating rooms within a home), then one or two layers of 15mm acoustic grade plasterboard is ideal. 2. The frame is screwed down to the floor, screwed up into the ceiling joists and if needed, sideways into the returning walls. No fixings going back into any walls behind. 3. There are no clips bewteen the frame and the wall and floor. 4. Yes we use our ProSound Isolation Strip ( soundproofingstore.uk/product/10m-isolation-strip-self-adhesive/ ) around the perimeter of the frame to isolate the frame from the walls, ceiling and floor. 5. You don't want to close the gap, you want to leave it as an open air gap. Pro
Really well explained. We live in a terraced house and get a lot of noise from neighbours going up and down stairs. Do any if the systems help with this type of noise? Thank you
Hi @anniebentley7644, many thanks for your feedback, glad you found the video useful. Yes, absolutely these systems will help with the unwanted noise from your neighbours. Please feel free to contact a member of the team on (01423) 206208 and they can talk through the best system for your situation. This blog might also be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-stairs
What is the best solution to deaden vibrations from a sub woofer a neighbors has? I'm not sure if its a sub woofer, a sound bar or something else but it sounds like a low frequency vibration that I am trying to deaden. Thank you for any advice.
Is probably a ceiling vibrator and it has become an epedimic in residential apartment buildings. Management offices are doing nothing about it because tenants simpmy hide the devices uopn inspection. Good luck to you because my situation is driving me insane !
Do you actually install the rockwool before putting up the first layer of drywall? What’s the total STC rating for this solution? How do you deal with all of the penetrations that need to happen through this sound treatment, like electric boxes for switches or receptacles, windows, air vents, etc…?
Hi @shubinternet, with both the ReductoClip Independent Wall Solution and the ReductoClip Direct to Wall Solution, acoustic mineral wool is installed before the first layer of acoustic plasterboard. This video on Acoustic Mineral Wool and its use in soundproofing might be of interest: ruclips.net/video/nkfVpoXEAiQ/видео.html Performance data for both systems can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system Surface mounted socket boxes can be used, or acoustic socket putty pads: soundproofingstore.uk/product/acoustic-socket-putty-pads/ This installation video goes into more detail and might be useful: ruclips.net/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/видео.html
Hi Mark Harper, the recommendation would be to remove dot and dab before installing the ReductoClip Direct to Wall Solution. This blog goes into more detail as to why: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/why-is-dot-and-dab-plasterboard-bad-for-soundproofing The fixings also come as part of the system (a 63mm screw and rawlplug).
@@SoundproofingStore well my wife would kill me if I start ripping down walls, so would I be fine to just drill into the plasterboard and wall and fix with a longer plug/screw to attach the reductoclip and then attach brackets, and then plasterboard, soundtec, and then another layer of plasterboard and then seal with acoustic sealant?
@@t2thex21 You're not really ripping down walls, it's just the plasterboard cover. If you keep the dot and dab on, it will have a detrimental effect on the results. You will still get an improvement on the current sound reduction, but not as high as it should be. It just means you're spending the same money, but getting less effective results from it, which seems a waste. But that's a choice for you. Theoretically, you could use longer screws, but that is tricky because you wont be able to put plugs into the solid wall as the dot and dab will be in your way. So you would need to use something like hammer screws that have the plugs attached, Or use very long plugs that stretch from the front of the dot and dab, all the way accross the cavity and into the solid wall. One for you to figure out i'm afriad, we don't have a ready to go solution as it's somethng we don't recommend to do.
As many here, i live in a condo. My neighbor is using a ceiling vibrator to torture me. I'll spare you the details. My quesiton is, will this work against the ceiling vibrator's noise and whole apt vibration?
Hi @angied1128, as you mention, it is harder to soundproof against noises which are travelling through the whole structure of a building. It is always easier to treat the noise at the source before it has chance to enter the structure. Whether this be the floor, wall or ceiling. ruclips.net/video/VeeTMJfTfEc/видео.html ruclips.net/video/4aPYW2HbF2E/видео.html
Hi @matthewdevlin9769 for the best results against bass noise we'd recommend the ReductoClip Independent Wall Solution. This is a fully decoupled system and delivers the highest level of sound reduction for all noise types (also used in music studios): ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Is it noisy neighbors or is it 'dot and dab' ? ? The installers themselves knew that was wrong. Whoever ordered it, should be held liable. I had similar in a new high rise building. The wood floor tiles did not have adhesive bond applied evenly across the tile, caused creaks and uneven step. We can turn this into a positive by tearing away and making new. Take photos as you go. When it’s done right, it should be reflected on the sales price, or 9:03 the landlord should discount for your labor. Dot and Dab indeed.
Hi @neilsaxton109, there is always a compromise with regards to performance v's space loss in soundproofing. The ReductoClip System is actually the thinnest clip and bar system on the market. Of course, there are other options for customers who don't have 120mm to lose from their wall. e.g. the clips can be installed directly to the existing wall (only 60mm space loss).
I'm scouring the net for a noisy neighbor solution. I live in a condo, and I am coming close to selling my unit because of the insane noise.
Amazing demo/video. We’re definitely gonna be emailing soon. 🙌🏻🤣
I live in a terrace house. My only solution is wait for next door's kid to grow up. They run and do a big jump on the first floor. Sending vibrations through my 1st floor floor board to the other side of my house 😅
Well done. Explained it perfectly.
Like, and will remember the soda pop example for judging thickness.
Tell me, plans ahead for distributors in the U.S.?
Hi C - Thank you for the kind comment. At this point there is no plans to expand to the US i'm afraid. Maybe some point in the future.
Great video! The best!!
What kind of board did you use for the back of the frame?
How do you fix the frame to the wall and floor?
Are you using any klips between the frame and the wall/floor?
Do you place any material to isolate the frame from the wall & floor?
How do you close the gap between the frame and the wall? thanks for your advise !!
Hi Thanks for the comment and questions.
1. Board on the back depends on your situation. If you are building this in front of an existing wall, then don't put anything on the back, leave the mineral wool exposed. If it's for a stand alone stud wall (separating rooms within a home), then one or two layers of 15mm acoustic grade plasterboard is ideal.
2. The frame is screwed down to the floor, screwed up into the ceiling joists and if needed, sideways into the returning walls. No fixings going back into any walls behind.
3. There are no clips bewteen the frame and the wall and floor.
4. Yes we use our ProSound Isolation Strip ( soundproofingstore.uk/product/10m-isolation-strip-self-adhesive/ ) around the perimeter of the frame to isolate the frame from the walls, ceiling and floor.
5. You don't want to close the gap, you want to leave it as an open air gap. Pro
Really well explained.
We live in a terraced house and get a lot of noise from neighbours going up and down stairs. Do any if the systems help with this type of noise? Thank you
Hi @anniebentley7644, many thanks for your feedback, glad you found the video useful. Yes, absolutely these systems will help with the unwanted noise from your neighbours. Please feel free to contact a member of the team on (01423) 206208 and they can talk through the best system for your situation.
This blog might also be of interest:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-stairs
What is the best solution to deaden vibrations from a sub woofer a neighbors has? I'm not sure if its a sub woofer, a sound bar or something else but it sounds like a low frequency vibration that I am trying to deaden. Thank you for any advice.
Is probably a ceiling vibrator and it has become an epedimic in residential apartment buildings. Management offices are doing nothing about it because tenants simpmy hide the devices uopn inspection. Good luck to you because my situation is driving me insane !
Do you actually install the rockwool before putting up the first layer of drywall? What’s the total STC rating for this solution? How do you deal with all of the penetrations that need to happen through this sound treatment, like electric boxes for switches or receptacles, windows, air vents, etc…?
Hi @shubinternet, with both the ReductoClip Independent Wall Solution and the ReductoClip Direct to Wall Solution, acoustic mineral wool is installed before the first layer of acoustic plasterboard.
This video on Acoustic Mineral Wool and its use in soundproofing might be of interest:
ruclips.net/video/nkfVpoXEAiQ/видео.html
Performance data for both systems can be found here:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system
Surface mounted socket boxes can be used, or acoustic socket putty pads: soundproofingstore.uk/product/acoustic-socket-putty-pads/
This installation video goes into more detail and might be useful:
ruclips.net/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/видео.html
What fixings would you use to attach reducto clips to a solid wall with dot and dab plasterboard?
Hi Mark Harper, the recommendation would be to remove dot and dab before installing the ReductoClip Direct to Wall Solution.
This blog goes into more detail as to why: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/why-is-dot-and-dab-plasterboard-bad-for-soundproofing
The fixings also come as part of the system (a 63mm screw and rawlplug).
@@SoundproofingStore well my wife would kill me if I start ripping down walls, so would I be fine to just drill into the plasterboard and wall and fix with a longer plug/screw to attach the reductoclip and then attach brackets, and then plasterboard, soundtec, and then another layer of plasterboard and then seal with acoustic sealant?
@@t2thex21 You're not really ripping down walls, it's just the plasterboard cover. If you keep the dot and dab on, it will have a detrimental effect on the results. You will still get an improvement on the current sound reduction, but not as high as it should be. It just means you're spending the same money, but getting less effective results from it, which seems a waste. But that's a choice for you. Theoretically, you could use longer screws, but that is tricky because you wont be able to put plugs into the solid wall as the dot and dab will be in your way. So you would need to use something like hammer screws that have the plugs attached, Or use very long plugs that stretch from the front of the dot and dab, all the way accross the cavity and into the solid wall. One for you to figure out i'm afriad, we don't have a ready to go solution as it's somethng we don't recommend to do.
As many here, i live in a condo. My neighbor is using a ceiling vibrator to torture me. I'll spare you the details. My quesiton is, will this work against the ceiling vibrator's noise and whole apt vibration?
Hi @angied1128, as you mention, it is harder to soundproof against noises which are travelling through the whole structure of a building. It is always easier to treat the noise at the source before it has chance to enter the structure. Whether this be the floor, wall or ceiling.
ruclips.net/video/VeeTMJfTfEc/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/4aPYW2HbF2E/видео.html
How effective is this system for bass noise from computer gaming?
Hi @matthewdevlin9769 for the best results against bass noise we'd recommend the ReductoClip Independent Wall Solution. This is a fully decoupled system and delivers the highest level of sound reduction for all noise types (also used in music studios):
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Solution1 @2:51
Is it noisy neighbors or is it 'dot and dab' ? ?
The installers themselves knew that was wrong. Whoever ordered it, should be held liable. I had similar in a new high rise building. The wood floor tiles did not have adhesive bond applied evenly across the tile, caused creaks and uneven step.
We can turn this into a positive by tearing away and making new. Take photos as you go. When it’s done right, it should be reflected on the sales price, or 9:03 the landlord should discount for your labor.
Dot and Dab indeed.
My god you would have no room left in house if you put that on walls .
Hi @neilsaxton109, there is always a compromise with regards to performance v's space loss in soundproofing.
The ReductoClip System is actually the thinnest clip and bar system on the market.
Of course, there are other options for customers who don't have 120mm to lose from their wall. e.g. the clips can be installed directly to the existing wall (only 60mm space loss).