I was just going to ask you about this saw as I watched your original video on this when you got it. I have the opportunity to pick up a 3660 and your video helped me narrow in on it. Hope you’re still happy with that saw and thanks for what you do!
I have a TS 3650. I have a quite large outfeed table built onto it with the legs removed as it sits on that. Plus a router on the right side on the feed side. Anyway. I am installing the INCRA fence system and redoing and cleaning the saw table and such. I put a new motor in it as well as changed it run on 240v and it's power and such on the 1.5hp is much better. Anyway. I have a shattered femur at the moment so out of pocket for a few months. But I may do a RUclips video on it when I get all that going. Check out the INCRA TS LS system as well as the router tie in etc. not cheap. But they can get you repeatability and exact cuts to within thousandths. Amazing system. Nice video. I will be using the same techniques to check and redo my saw.
Nice video. I have this saw and It has been a pleasure to use for 19 years. You will love it. I backed off the 90 and 45 degree stops, and rely on squares to set. I don't like any pressure on the adjustment mechanism, or concern for sawdust. I have two older videos showing this saw you might find interesting. Thanks
🇦🇺😎👍Great videos mate…. Never take off the riving knife and keep the blade about 20 mm above the board so not to bind on the blade . Put plenty of wax or soap on the table and fence so the job slides easier . Most important, when I was an apprentice the boss told me to count my fingers before I started the saw and to finish with the same amount. 45 years on I’ve still got 8 fingers an 2 thumbs 😉🏁
🇦🇺😎👍Cool well keep the blade down , keep it sharp and if the fence on the table is square to the blade all should be ok. Just take it easy@@danmcknight963
One of the faults of the TS3650 I recently encountered is the surface area contact of the small plastic part that engages the rail on the back side of the table. Yesterday, I went through multiple efforts in aligning the fence while cheating some cuts with spacers and revealed the origin of the need for cheating the cuts was this limited surface area contact of the small plastic part that can wiggle in the channel of the fence. I've started to mill a new part with about 4 times the surface area contact out of some acetate/delrin plastic I have. So far, my part has no wiggle in the fence's channel like the original part and is able to pivot slightly as this mechanism utilizes this pivoting motion for it's tightening I've had to order a 1/4" ball-nosed end mill to match the contour of the rail on the back side of the table, verses grinding my own tool and using a fly cutter, which could take what I might consider too much time for the application. This is in the process of some finite cabinet work I've been doing, with more to go so it's a fix I see as being advantageous. Something you may want to look into. Thanks for the video!
Thank you, Thank you!! I was about ready to dig into mine because the blade would not go to 90 degrees. Had no clue there are stops at 0 and 45 degrees. Fixed the problem. What manual is that? downloadable? BTW, I have moved the on/off to the left side on mine. Fits the rail the same, just a better position IMHO.
I was just going to ask you about this saw as I watched your original video on this when you got it. I have the opportunity to pick up a 3660 and your video helped me narrow in on it. Hope you’re still happy with that saw and thanks for what you do!
Thanx for the video! Great job! This is my saw also! Now to fine tune it!
Thanks for making this video, it's exactly what I was looking for!
I have a TS 3650. I have a quite large outfeed table built onto it with the legs removed as it sits on that. Plus a router on the right side on the feed side. Anyway. I am installing the INCRA fence system and redoing and cleaning the saw table and such. I put a new motor in it as well as changed it run on 240v and it's power and such on the 1.5hp is much better. Anyway. I have a shattered femur at the moment so out of pocket for a few months. But I may do a RUclips video on it when I get all that going. Check out the INCRA TS LS system as well as the router tie in etc. not cheap. But they can get you repeatability and exact cuts to within thousandths. Amazing system. Nice video. I will be using the same techniques to check and redo my saw.
Nice video. I have this saw and It has been a pleasure to use for 19 years. You will love it. I backed off the 90 and 45 degree stops, and rely on squares to set. I don't like any pressure on the adjustment mechanism, or concern for sawdust. I have two older videos showing this saw you might find interesting. Thanks
🇦🇺😎👍Great videos mate…. Never take off the riving knife and keep the blade about 20 mm above the board so not to bind on the blade . Put plenty of wax or soap on the table and fence so the job slides easier . Most important, when I was an apprentice the boss told me to count my fingers before I started the saw and to finish with the same amount. 45 years on I’ve still got 8 fingers an 2 thumbs 😉🏁
Unfortunately the 3650 did not have a riving knife when I bought mine.
🇦🇺😎👍Cool well keep the blade down , keep it sharp and if the fence on the table is square to the blade all should be ok. Just take it easy@@danmcknight963
I love my 3650. ITs a lot of saw for the money. It’s much better than what Rigid is putting ou now
🇦🇺😎👍Hey Jack 🏁….hey that other message was sent to you as well. Don’t know why ? It’s happened once before , RUclips 🙄
One of the faults of the TS3650 I recently encountered is the surface area contact of the small plastic part that engages the rail on the back side of the table.
Yesterday, I went through multiple efforts in aligning the fence while cheating some cuts with spacers and revealed the origin of the need for cheating the cuts was this limited surface area contact of the small plastic part that can wiggle in the channel of the fence.
I've started to mill a new part with about 4 times the surface area contact out of some acetate/delrin plastic I have. So far, my part has no wiggle in the fence's channel like the original part and is able to pivot slightly as this mechanism utilizes this pivoting motion for it's tightening
I've had to order a 1/4" ball-nosed end mill to match the contour of the rail on the back side of the table, verses grinding my own tool and using a fly cutter, which could take what I might consider too much time for the application.
This is in the process of some finite cabinet work I've been doing, with more to go so it's a fix I see as being advantageous.
Something you may want to look into.
Thanks for the video!
That's a great idea, I'll have to take a closer look at mine. Thanks!
Thank you, Thank you!! I was about ready to dig into mine because the blade would not go to 90 degrees. Had no clue there are stops at 0 and 45 degrees. Fixed the problem. What manual is that? downloadable? BTW, I have moved the on/off to the left side on mine. Fits the rail the same, just a better position IMHO.
You
e welcome! Mine came with the manual but I bet you can find a pdf on Rigid's site. Good luck and have fun with it.
Moving from motor bikes to table saws. Move to guns and backpacks 🎒 knives ?
Great video as always
Great job