Rod, I am building a PT 11 now. How did you smooth out the lap joints where glass overlapped and also where the glass ends and transitions to just epoxy coated wood. Even after 2 fill coats, there is a bump that needs to be blocked off. I am worried if I sand into the glass a little at the lap, it will show through a bright finish.
Your manual should show how to use the peel ply which I assume can in your kit. But I did not use the peel ply. I simply cut my own tape, set it into several coats of epoxy, let it harden and then sanded the rough edges smooth and scuffed up the remaining areas and added two more coats of epoxy. Did not have any issues with glass showing afterwards. We do it all the time on seams on kayaks.
By tooling, do you mean rolling with a metal roller or do you mean cutting edges while still green? It does suggest cutting edges while still green, but in my next video I cut the glass edges and clean up with laminate trimmer and bead/flush cutter.
@@Nomadboatbuilding No, they do not recommend that. The 4 oz. fiberglass with a roller saturates nicely just enough epoxy. What is not shown or said in the video is that I used two roller covers. One to apply and then used a new dry one to go over it all and press hard and it picked up any excess.
Is it really just 4oz? In metric, that's about 125g/m (I think) and isn't that quite thin? So, maybe not really for structural support but more for fairing and finish purposes and "holding" the resin in place? Great series, btw.
Yes, just 4 oz. fiberglass on the marine ply. Plenty strong enough. There is a heavier cloth on the bottom outside for wear and all seams have glass tape.
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Rod,
I am building a PT 11 now. How did you smooth out the lap joints where glass overlapped and also where the glass ends and transitions to just epoxy coated wood. Even after 2 fill coats, there is a bump that needs to be blocked off. I am worried if I sand into the glass a little at the lap, it will show through a bright finish.
Your manual should show how to use the peel ply which I assume can in your kit. But I did not use the peel ply. I simply cut my own tape, set it into several coats of epoxy, let it harden and then sanded the rough edges smooth and scuffed up the remaining areas and added two more coats of epoxy. Did not have any issues with glass showing afterwards. We do it all the time on seams on kayaks.
Do the instructions not recommend tooling the glass down after saturation or did you just omit that from the video Rod?
By tooling, do you mean rolling with a metal roller or do you mean cutting edges while still green? It does suggest cutting edges while still green, but in my next video I cut the glass edges and clean up with laminate trimmer and bead/flush cutter.
I mean working it down with a squeegee and removing excess epoxy.
@@Nomadboatbuilding No, they do not recommend that. The 4 oz. fiberglass with a roller saturates nicely just enough epoxy. What is not shown or said in the video is that I used two roller covers. One to apply and then used a new dry one to go over it all and press hard and it picked up any excess.
Is it really just 4oz? In metric, that's about 125g/m (I think) and isn't that quite thin? So, maybe not really for structural support but more for fairing and finish purposes and "holding" the resin in place?
Great series, btw.
Yes, just 4 oz. fiberglass on the marine ply. Plenty strong enough. There is a heavier cloth on the bottom outside for wear and all seams have glass tape.
@@OrcaboatsCa Ah, gotcha. That makes sense. Thanks for elaborating:)