Very well done! Thank you. I've started making the under hood part full length, and then making a set of clamps with maybe 24" of wire and storing them in the back of the vehicle. All of my sawmill equipment is set up with Anderson connectors now.
Great video. I did the same thing, like you, I used the red sb175 plugs because that’s what warn winch uses, so more common. I would recommend using antioxidant grease on the end of the wire before you put it into the connector and crimp. Nolox or copper coat is good, that way the connection won’t corrode. I used 1/0 wire for less resistance and less voltage drop because my cables are 20 feet long with an Anderson plug on both ends, plus I had the wire given to me for free. and the clamps are on a shorter piece that plugs into the end of the cable incase I need to jump a vehicle that doesn’t have an Anderson plug. I also mounted the vehicle plugs on the bumper so I don’t need to open the hood, which is really handy after a night of freezing rain leaves a half inch layer of ice on the car. Just plug in and hit the remote start and the keyless entry.👍
I recently, (couple weeks back) bought a pair of 6 ton hydraulic crimpers and used them for the first time to terminate a set of battery cables for my wife's Camero. I was very impressed with how precise and fast it worked. I agree, was well worth the purchase.
This is the wire we used. 4 Gauge Wire (25ft Each - Red/Black) Copper Clad Aluminum CCA - Primary Automotive Wire, Car Amplifier Power & Ground Cable, 20PCS Lugs Terminal Connectors,20PCS 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing amzn.to/3wmHzyL Hope that helps.
Here’s a joke, this guy goes to a nightclub but the bouncer says he has to wear a tie, so he goes back to the ute and pulls out these jumper cables and ties them around his neck. The bouncer says he can go in but don’t start anything.
Just curious, did the study say how many ohms difference in the two types of termination? Only reason I ask, is the value negligible or significant. Also, what is the resistance between the battery terminal and the clamp itself? That will always vary, every time its connected to the battery terminal. If that resistance exceeds the resistance of the lug termination, does it necessarily matter? I'm entirely open to evidence that would change how I terminate cables. I can say that one of the reasons I prefer a crimp is it provides a mechanical connection. I've witnessed soldered connections that separate from the lug. Hence the reason I prefer a crimped connection. I supposed a person could crimp then solder, but I would not eliminate the mechanical bond.
If you work on AWG cables and terminals be aware of the Chinese crimpers as most are for mm2 sizes not exact sizing for AWG stuff Other than that both manual and hydraulic crims work good for their tasks...
@@GearheadOutlaw I bought the Chinese hydraulic crimper on eBay for about $50 usd. The dye sizes aren’t exact for the reason you mentioned, but they are close enough and it did a satisfactory job.
@@GearheadOutlaw Yeah, the mm2 size thing can be annoying. The other issue is that different terminal walls have different thicknesses. Also, some of the highly flexible cable with lots and lots of strands is actually larger diameter at the same AWG. I basically figure out what size die I need experimentally. Sadly.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I've worked with skilled tradesman all my life and seen the "jack wagons" (lol) come & go.
I know where you're categorized. Nice work! 👌
Now there’s 3 of us thanks for sharing
Very well done! Thank you. I've started making the under hood part full length, and then making a set of clamps with maybe 24" of wire and storing them in the back of the vehicle. All of my sawmill equipment is set up with Anderson connectors now.
Great video. I did the same thing, like you, I used the red sb175 plugs because that’s what warn winch uses, so more common. I would recommend using antioxidant grease on the end of the wire before you put it into the connector and crimp. Nolox or copper coat is good, that way the connection won’t corrode. I used 1/0 wire for less resistance and less voltage drop because my cables are 20 feet long with an Anderson plug on both ends, plus I had the wire given to me for free. and the clamps are on a shorter piece that plugs into the end of the cable incase I need to jump a vehicle that doesn’t have an Anderson plug. I also mounted the vehicle plugs on the bumper so I don’t need to open the hood, which is really handy after a night of freezing rain leaves a half inch layer of ice on the car. Just plug in and hit the remote start and the keyless entry.👍
6:40 im in tears - thanks grizzly
Very useful, thanks for that. I'm just doing exactly the same thing over here in Blighty 👌👍✌
Gald to be helpful!
I’m in the U.K. and use the cheap Chinese hydraulic crimpers with metric cable, they give a very neat and secure hexagonal crimp
I recently, (couple weeks back) bought a pair of 6 ton hydraulic crimpers and used them for the first time to terminate a set of battery cables for my wife's Camero. I was very impressed with how precise and fast it worked. I agree, was well worth the purchase.
Thank you, worth watching to see how you used the vice with the crimper. That was my difficult part..[ short arms ] LOL...
Glad it helped!
AWG 4 = 25mm² metric cable
Thumbs up just for the term "Jack wagon"😄
Hi what is the diameter of the cables 25mm2 35mm2 ?
This is the wire we used. 4 Gauge Wire (25ft Each - Red/Black) Copper Clad Aluminum CCA - Primary Automotive Wire, Car Amplifier Power & Ground Cable, 20PCS Lugs Terminal Connectors,20PCS 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing
amzn.to/3wmHzyL
Hope that helps.
You forgot to say "That's not going anywhere!"
The main thing is getting quality components and terminating everything properly.
Here’s a joke, this guy goes to a nightclub but the bouncer says he has to wear a tie, so he goes back to the ute and pulls out these jumper cables and ties them around his neck.
The bouncer says he can go in but don’t start anything.
crimping has far more resistance than soldering many studys and tests have proven
Just curious, did the study say how many ohms difference in the two types of termination? Only reason I ask, is the value negligible or significant.
Also, what is the resistance between the battery terminal and the clamp itself? That will always vary, every time its connected to the battery terminal. If that resistance exceeds the resistance of the lug termination, does it necessarily matter?
I'm entirely open to evidence that would change how I terminate cables. I can say that one of the reasons I prefer a crimp is it provides a mechanical connection. I've witnessed soldered connections that separate from the lug. Hence the reason I prefer a crimped connection. I supposed a person could crimp then solder, but I would not eliminate the mechanical bond.
Hydrolic crimper works better
I plan on upgrading, more tools never hurts.
If you work on AWG cables and terminals be aware of the Chinese crimpers as most are for mm2 sizes not exact sizing for AWG stuff
Other than that both manual and hydraulic crims work good for their tasks...
@@GearheadOutlaw I bought the Chinese hydraulic crimper on eBay for about $50 usd. The dye sizes aren’t exact for the reason you mentioned, but they are close enough and it did a satisfactory job.
@@GearheadOutlaw Yeah, the mm2 size thing can be annoying. The other issue is that different terminal walls have different thicknesses. Also, some of the highly flexible cable with lots and lots of strands is actually larger diameter at the same AWG.
I basically figure out what size die I need experimentally. Sadly.