This is the best knot and the best explanation I’ve seen! Thank you! I’m using a kinda burley .7 mm line for a Syrian buzuk … I like the thicker frets for more durability tho the previous knots I was doing wouldnt hold very well… this way tho seems to work great even for the thicker fishing line. Thank you 🙏
Hi! I would just like to say thank you for posting this. I have a Persian tanbour, and learn remotely, so nobody around to show me these tricks. I couldn't find a video on tanbour specifically, which has a groove to thread the string, but this is very helpful.
Thank you very much for putting this together. I've got a cura with a backbowed neck that I've been putting off dealing with and this will be a tremendous help.
Another tip I just heard in another Video: Bind the fret way up the neck and move it down. Because the neck is just a tiny bit wider at the bottom, so the fret will get tighter when moving down.
I reuploaded this video from my old, generic account. Just to explain the color coding: I bound all the quarter tones / microtonal frets with a more subtle color. I also did the 10th and 17th fret with neon color. This is just personal preference, but I think it works well: If you use a traditional hand position you'll cover (E) 3rd, (F) 4th and (G) 7th frets blindly without moving the hand. The next "common" fret is then (A) on the 10th from which B and C can be found rather easily from a hand position starting on A/10th. 17th fret is the Octave and the next "important" note after the C again moving the hand up. (just for the record, there are more "hand positions" on a Baglama then those three.)
Remove the stuff in this order: First cut off the Frets. Second enjoy a fretless Saz 🤘😎🎶. Third remove the strings and clean the goo and put the stuff back on.
I've looked at some photos of the Yayli Tanbur and the frets look very similar. They also have a knot in the back. If you still have the old frets: Try to find fishing line that has the same thickness. And make some close up photos before you remove the old frets, try to count how many loops they used and so on.
For the Bridge. If you have a Saz that is set up professionally and perfectly: MARK THE BRIDGE on the body with waterproof pen. If you are not sure if your Perdeler/Frets and your Bridge are set up correctly: Better do it from scratch. There are different theories about perfect bridge position. Whatever you do, you'll position the bridge FIRST and then the Frets!!!! The easiest way is perhaps to measure the Body from where the neck starts to to edge (not the protrusion that holds the string), take 1/4 of this value, measure it from the bottom = bridge position. Traditionally it was sometimes 1/5 or "four fingers from the edge", however 1/4 is supposed to be better for the tone and the stress on the wood (idk). If you buy the Saz from a proper shop they might be able to give you the best value. Another way is to "tonally" figure out the bridge position where is sounds "best". Considering that some older or handmade instruments are not standardized and might have quirks, that could be a good option. I also read that the bridge should be atop the deepest part of the bowl, but I have no idea how to figure that out... I'd say 1/4th body length is still the safest bet.
Add at least two or all strings, position the bridge and THEN adjust every fret. I usually start with 17, since it's the octave. I prefer to use ONE SINGLE string from the middle course for tuning of the frets, but I also double check with other strings. I hit the open string inbetween to check if it's still in tune and then check every half-tone fret. For the quarter tones: They are not measured, you just place them a little bit off-center-to-the-front between two adjusted normal frets.
For putting the strings back on this is a nice method (turkish, but good demonstration) ruclips.net/video/00ksY9qjLlo/видео.html He goes the extra mile and removes the wound wire at the attachment area of the bass strings. Also of note: He adds a bass string in the middle course "For playing Zeybek". Usually you don't, but I like the middle bass anyways. Another point is to push the string on the wooden pegs down closer to the wood. He also has a video about how to bind the frets, but I prefer my method 😎
When you go "Am I eVeN iN tHe riGht OCTaVE?!?!?" while tuning: Short neck in Bağlama Düzen: A2-A3 G3-G3 D3-D4-D4 Long neck in Kara Düzen: G2-G3 D3-D3 A2-A3-A3 Some tuner apps wil display the octave number. Of course you can then tune all strings up one or two half steps to fit your instrument size / singing pitch.
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This is the best knot and the best explanation I’ve seen! Thank you! I’m using a kinda burley .7 mm line for a Syrian buzuk … I like the thicker frets for more durability tho the previous knots I was doing wouldnt hold very well… this way tho seems to work great even for the thicker fishing line. Thank you 🙏
Hi! I would just like to say thank you for posting this. I have a Persian tanbour, and learn remotely, so nobody around to show me these tricks. I couldn't find a video on tanbour specifically, which has a groove to thread the string, but this is very helpful.
I needed this info!!! Thank you.
Thank you very much for putting this together. I've got a cura with a backbowed neck that I've been putting off dealing with and this will be a tremendous help.
Another tip I just heard in another Video: Bind the fret way up the neck and move it down. Because the neck is just a tiny bit wider at the bottom, so the fret will get tighter when moving down.
I reuploaded this video from my old, generic account.
Just to explain the color coding:
I bound all the quarter tones / microtonal frets with a more subtle color.
I also did the 10th and 17th fret with neon color. This is just personal preference, but I think it works well: If you use a traditional hand position you'll cover (E) 3rd, (F) 4th and (G) 7th frets blindly without moving the hand. The next "common" fret is then (A) on the 10th from which B and C can be found rather easily from a hand position starting on A/10th. 17th fret is the Octave and the next "important" note after the C again moving the hand up.
(just for the record, there are more "hand positions" on a Baglama then those three.)
Remove the stuff in this order: First cut off the Frets. Second enjoy a fretless Saz 🤘😎🎶. Third remove the strings and clean the goo and put the stuff back on.
Great video! Thank you for sharing 🙏 I have to refret my Yayli Tanbur. Is there any difference in the process? Thanks again! Flavio
I've looked at some photos of the Yayli Tanbur and the frets look very similar. They also have a knot in the back. If you still have the old frets: Try to find fishing line that has the same thickness. And make some close up photos before you remove the old frets, try to count how many loops they used and so on.
For the Bridge.
If you have a Saz that is set up professionally and perfectly: MARK THE BRIDGE on the body with waterproof pen.
If you are not sure if your Perdeler/Frets and your Bridge are set up correctly: Better do it from scratch.
There are different theories about perfect bridge position. Whatever you do, you'll position the bridge FIRST and then the Frets!!!!
The easiest way is perhaps to measure the Body from where the neck starts to to edge (not the protrusion that holds the string), take 1/4 of this value, measure it from the bottom = bridge position.
Traditionally it was sometimes 1/5 or "four fingers from the edge", however 1/4 is supposed to be better for the tone and the stress on the wood (idk).
If you buy the Saz from a proper shop they might be able to give you the best value.
Another way is to "tonally" figure out the bridge position where is sounds "best". Considering that some older or handmade instruments are not standardized and might have quirks, that could be a good option.
I also read that the bridge should be atop the deepest part of the bowl, but I have no idea how to figure that out...
I'd say 1/4th body length is still the safest bet.
Add at least two or all strings, position the bridge and THEN adjust every fret.
I usually start with 17, since it's the octave. I prefer to use ONE SINGLE string from the middle course for tuning of the frets, but I also double check with other strings. I hit the open string inbetween to check if it's still in tune and then check every half-tone fret.
For the quarter tones: They are not measured, you just place them a little bit off-center-to-the-front between two adjusted normal frets.
For putting the strings back on this is a nice method (turkish, but good demonstration) ruclips.net/video/00ksY9qjLlo/видео.html
He goes the extra mile and removes the wound wire at the attachment area of the bass strings. Also of note: He adds a bass string in the middle course "For playing Zeybek". Usually you don't, but I like the middle bass anyways.
Another point is to push the string on the wooden pegs down closer to the wood.
He also has a video about how to bind the frets, but I prefer my method 😎
When you go "Am I eVeN iN tHe riGht OCTaVE?!?!?" while tuning:
Short neck in Bağlama Düzen: A2-A3 G3-G3 D3-D4-D4
Long neck in Kara Düzen: G2-G3 D3-D3 A2-A3-A3
Some tuner apps wil display the octave number. Of course you can then tune all strings up one or two half steps to fit your instrument size / singing pitch.