How to replace Renault Megane 2 Clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- So just you all know, this is not easy task and will take a lot of time!
A short story of what happened, I was driving my Renault Megane 2 and suddenly I lost clutch, when I tried to push clutch pedal, it went into the floor and did pop back, but that was smallest problem, I could not change gears as well!
The easy way how to inspect if the problem is because of faulty Clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder, is by pressing the clutch pedal in and out many times and checking if oil is spilling under the car, what happened to me, the best case scenario is that u are out of brake fluid, but not in my case.
On my video I am showing how to disassemble the car, to get to the clutch cylinder, like how to remove tire support, axles, break supports, break free lower ball joint, remove front strut, remove cars computer, remove engine mount at gearbox side, remove all kind of connections, remove starter, remove sub frame, take a part gearbox from engine, etx. and put everything back together! And of course how to replace clutch cylinder and how to bleed clutch slave cylinder, what wasnt that super easy!
Any way in the end I managed in the yard replace the clutch slave cylinder and car now works very good, even better than before, so it is possible, of course you will need a lot of different tools and if you will do as I did, as well some sort of winch and 8 mm square drain plug opening tool, so you can drain gearbox oil.
Any way on the internet I found that to do this work at workshop it takes at least 4 hours + at least 30 mintues to bleed the clutch, but for me it took a lot more, since I did it for first time and to open all the bolts and to understand what to do next, that took most of the time, if I would have to do this again ( what I would not like to do :D ) it would take a lot less time, bcos I would now what to do, so I hope may video gives you some sort of help to reduce the time you spend on this!
I don't understand why there are so many dislikes, and awful comments. This video was very informative for me. I was too afraid to change the clutch, but after watching this video, I think I'll give it a shot.
Thank you JUrtan for your time to edit and upload this video.
Thank You very much, I hope it works out well for you, this is rather challenging work, but possible, as well I recommend to ask for extra hands when you will remove/install transmission and yeah clutch bleeding might be challenging as well
Hi, thank you for all the trouble u went through just to make such video for someone like me.
I find it so educative and useful too, because I would have made a dozens of mistakes if not for your video. I love your charisma and sacrifice! 🙏
Thank You very much for your good words!
I love the personalized adds 14 adds in one video. Great work
Thank you for doing this video, it is inspirational, you deserve a medal for your effort and perseverance, well done
Thank you very much!!
Nice to have people like you who share their knowledge. Much obliged !!!
excelente tu trabajo estimado amigo,,gracias por compartir,abrazos desde corrientes,argentina.
Great video . Hat's off to you mine is going to the scrap yard ! I hate this car . It's just one thing after the other with it . Anyway well done you . Regards from Spain 🇪🇦
Man that is a big job! I have to replace mine in 'n 2004 1.9dci that started leaking recently.... will change the clutch and crankshaft oil seal and thrust bearing at the same time since it is such big job...
Doing the same, how was clutch job?
This is SO cool!
Thanks for insisting that it's possible to do it yourself - even if you don't know how, from the start!
And thanks for also showing me that I can't :D
My pedal is doing exacly the same - I lose brake fluid slowly - according to a mechanic, because some part of clutch is leaking fluid and from time to time, the pedal locks in bottom making it impossible to change gear. I can push the pedal back up with my foot and clutch then works again some time. (Car has driven 310.000km now, so I guess its acceptable that clutch is bust?)
Thanks JUrtan !
Good job friend, I have a megane II 2.0. and I also have to do that job for mine is sounding in clutch bearing. Thank you very much for this video! Greetings
Hi! I am from northern Finland, and i have same kind of job to do on my scenic ll -08 petrol. And under the sky on stands also😬 Great tutorial video you have made,👍🏻 I notice many sunsets on video, so how many hours it took to finish the job?
Hi! Good luck for your coming job! The job is not easy and it looks intimating, but even without a lot of experience in this area it is possible to do it , just need to unbolt a lot of bolts, I thought I might skip some parts of removing, but not possible :) I think it took me quite a few evening (had to do other things, so had limited time for this work), I even cant remember how many, but I was learning how to do it during process and as well recorded it, plus I ordered wrong part(even though it supposed to be right one..), so it took a lot more time than it could. Just need to understand that you will need to remove the whole subframe, once it is removed, then work will go a lot faster as well it would help a lot if you have better gearbox lifting equipment than mine homemade, at least more stable :)
برك الله فيك وجزاك الله خير الله يبعد عليك المشاكل
excellent video and very informative, thanks a million.
thank you for showing
how much time did it take to do all the work?
thx
You left out the hardest part, bleeding the clutch! :-) I fitted a new flywheel, clutch, slave cylinder to my megane rs225 2.0 and i can't get any gears!
My car has been off road for 3 months, i can't get the clutch bled!
I kind a tried to explain how i did it, not easy stuff if u are doing it first time, gravitu stuff didnt work so I had to suck oil to get it in the clutch, any way, not too hard if u know what to do, connect clucth so it is one click from fully connected, attach very long tube to bledding valve and suck and press pedal until no air comes when u suck and then connect clutch tube fully anf make sure bleeding valve is closdd, that is how i did+ i did not replace anyring else than slave cylinder since my clucth didnt slip at all :)
@@JUrtanschannel sorry, missed that part, ijust skipped to end of video thinking you would do it at the end of the video! :-)
I have tried sucking from the bleeder with a vacuum pump, that didn't work,i also reversed bled it from the bleeder back up to the fluid reservoir, that didn't work either!
Only thing i haven't tried is pressure bleeding from the fluid reservoir down to the bleeder.
@@robbocop33r12 well since I did this first time, it wasnt easy, took me at least 4 hours to bleed that clucth, first I read that u can pump fluid in the clucth cylinder before installing it, but it didnt work as pump at all so I was worried that it is probably faulty, but I installed it any way, then I tried to do as i read online, i attached quite a long tube to the bleeding valve with expansion bottle at the end and clicked cyclinder line one click away from fully connected, so i pressed many hours pedal and didnt bleed the clucth, could not engage any gear, then I was totally upset since it was 2 am and i had to get to the home with car, all i did i pray God and hoped it starts to work until i ran across one article about vacuume bleeding, so i tried to suck the air from the tube and with fluid some air came until no more air came, so I connected fully clutch and finally felt right pressure in the pedal and could engage gear, but it wasnt for long, since after a few pushes bleeding valve cap just popped open, so i had to bleed again and after third time I put around it some duct tape and it is still in the place after 6 months and clucth wotks nice! I think it was bcos cap was way too oily. But yeah I agree that i didnt give best video of bleeding since i figured out how to bleed just in very late night, i even managed to get some of dot oil in my eyes and my canon 70d got error 80 in mid of repairs so not the luckiest repair work, but result is any way nice for me. Sorry to hear that nothing works for you, when you pump your pedal, do u see any oil movement in to the line u have attached to the bleeding valve?
@@JUrtanschannel yes when i open bleeder fluid comes out no problem. My clutch pedal moves down about 6cm before there is resistance, then pedal feels good all the way down.
I too tried to fill the slave cylinder before fitting but i don't know if any fluid stayed in the slave or not? cylinder. Plus i heard it can damage slave cylinder while you are pressing it 'off' the car?
I am going to put pressure in the fluid reservoir tomorrow and open the bleeder and force the fluid down towards the slave cylinder, and see if that helps.
Try with 2 people - put finger over undone bleeder while other person pumps pedal very fast . Clutch fluid works low pressure compared to brakes and doesn;t always move air lock
Hiya mate, apart from the safety issues with logs and the like, I found the video really informative. I'm watching now to see how you bleed the clutch,however the comments are saying you missed this out. Do you need a pressure bleeder?
yeah, it is not easy task without pressure bleeder, but possible. First I tried to pre fill clutch cylinder by brake fluid, but it just didnt fill at all, so I installed it any way and tried to fill it with pressing clutch pedal, etc, didnt work too good. So in the end I did it by putting long tube at the end of the bleeding valve and removed the connection to bleeding position, so after then i pressed clutch pedal (i think so) and then I just sucked at the end of line and save how many many air bubbles started to come out,I repeated this a few times and then connected to close position connector and removed the line and closed the cap, and yeah after then clutch cylinder worked, but it took my many hours till I figured this out so that is why I kind a dont have this on my video, since I tried like many methods and stopped recording after a few.. and yeah I also had to secure the bleeding valve cap by duct tape bcos when I pressed clucth pedal it tended to pop open, idk why and how but I havent had any problems with clutch for at least 8 months now and havent loss any fluid etc. so I assume it is possible to bleed the clutch without the pressure bleeder, but u ll need at least 1.5m long tube that you can closely fit on bleeder valve.
@@JUrtanschannel thank you. I've just stuck a screwdriver through the radiator prying off the subframe. So got something else to mend now. Bloody Diamond of Doom that's a Renault.
Who was the fool who invented the concentric clutch?
Great video
Thank's a lot amigo, it was good help for me ;-)
Thank you so helpful 👍👍
thanks for this video :) my megane 3 clutch pedal went zero pressure when i parked up, then the next day it had pressure again, the pressure lasted about 3 gear changes then went pressure free again. do u think it could be something other than the slave cylinder? the break fluid is full strangely. im wondering if it has a leak and sucking in air overnight. Any thought? thankyou
my clutch just fell to the floor on the same car, but after seeing what you have to do... i need to go to a mechanic!
well if you have car lift, you can do quicker and more easier + u need someone who will help u to remove the gearbox.. yeah this work is crazy, but if u want save a lot of money, it is possible to do it by yourself :) + I did it without much experience, on ground and without many special tools :)
Funny that you got leak in the piston for the pedal!
Usually it gave’s up on the hydraulic cylinder for the clutch and pressure plate, which in turn needs full replacement.
And if that’s not enough… lucky 1.9dci owners like me can trace the problems back to the dual mass flywheel itself!
And that is certainly job for a mechanic!
We can only cry about the price of the parts…
So count yourself as lucky if this was your whole problem!
More than 3 years passed still driving, however if I would drive rough, i might brake the slave cylinder again, i thing i had to replace more than just a save cylinder :D
Thank you same with my almera...
Hi friend. This car is a megane II with 1.9 Dci engine? Thank you and congratulations on your work.
It is megane 2, with 1.5 dci (LM0), but I think the work u have to do is rather same. :)
Thanks for answer so soon. I have to change clutch in a 1.9 Dci engine, and I think your video is going to help me a lot. Good contribution.
@@eduardob.s.7087 just make sure u buy correct cylinder, bcos on manual it was said that I need different one, but in reallity it was other kind, there are two models, but u can check what model do u need by inspecting the connector of slave cylinder where brake fluide line connects to it :) at front of the engine, where u ll need to bleed it later on.
@@JUrtanschannel Thanks for the advice. I hope that with patience, everything goes well. A greeting.
Hey man me again do you know how to luminat reverse lights without engine on to check if they work ?(replacing all lights to led)
Not sure if I got you, but I am sorry I think I don't know :(
@@JUrtanschannel if you put the car in reverse with Megane 2 only the reverse lights lightup when car is running engine but can't find a way to check them with engine off 😅
Go and unplug the green sensor wich goes in the gearbox then touch the two cables it should work
Don’t use bricks, get some axle stands, bricks can topple over 😬
Yeah it is always better to use professional equipment if you have it, totally agree with you. If i would have them i would use them. But in my case i used what I had and put double amount of bricks for extra saftey.
Hello buddy I would of put a complete clutch kit because they are agro and I have to do a 3 peice clutch on Renault swingo 1600cc rs and timing belt kit ECT mega job any way good luck
Hello, I just changed my flywheel, plus clutch and hydraulic stop and bleed the circuit. I start and I press the pedal in clack clack clack or a purge problem why ???. It is a magane 2 1.9 the 120 CH year 2005 box NDO. Because I'm afraid to take it apart. Other I do not have a mid hot 4 in the hydraulic stop during assembly. is it important ??? and the petal vibrates and it seems to me drop mole. I don't know how to do better for the purge. thank you cordially I AM VERY BAD WITH THIS PROBLEM. (france)
Hi! Well I am not sure that I understand what is the problem, as well Im not pro, I just like to fix my car myself.. too much bad exp with garages in the past. Well this is the reason why I didnt replace the flywheel and clutch itself until it is totally broken, bcos of possible problems later on. One thing I would check out if it is all ok with clutch alignment, especially if u ve bleeded it and you can shift the gears, but have some problems with weird sounds from the clutch. Did u use special alignment tool when u installed the clutch?, to be honest it is not that special, but ll help you a lot :)
Good video my friend. I am currently removing a clutch from a 2007 1.6 Megane Dynamique. Can you give me any hints as to how you extracted the drive shaft from the transmission side as mine won't budge. Your video shows you splitting the ball joint and then shows the drive shaft removed but doesn't show you removing it. I'm quite far into the job, i have the battery, battery tray and ecu removed. Front sub frame is removed. Oil is drained. Ball joints are split both sides. The offside drive shaft came out really easy but i cannot pull the nearside axle from the transmission. Any ideas? Many thanks
hi, there! Thanks for your message. To be honest it was so long time ago, I kind a can speak only just from what I remember, in my case removing the drive shaft from driver side was super easy from passenger side, a bit more complicated.
Probably you have already removed the driver side drive shaft, to be honest I dont recall that it was hard to remove it after all joints to hub/brake disc were removed.. it supposed to be the easy side, but if it is stuck, probably you can try to pry a bit it from the transmission side?
@@JUrtanschannel Really appreciate your reply, many thanks. Yes i got the driver side axle out first, which was really easy. The transmission side axle won't budge at all, it's as if there's a circlip or bearing securing it to the gearbox! I'm certain i've dismantled everything else around it (Hub ball joint, tie end rods etc).
Again, many thanks for your quick reply.
@@jamesmichaelcooper9180 yeah the other side, I start to recall, it was hard to get it out, I even think I used hammer and when I tried to get it back I had some issues because of that, but nothing big, just had to hammer part I dislocated(I think I had problem with shaft holding bracket).. but yeah you can get it out with a hammer :) I dont think it is the best method, but it worked out in the end OK
@@jamesmichaelcooper9180 I just had a thought, I am not 100% sure, but I think you can probably push out other driving shaft with idk screwdriver or better something with flatter end and hammer, from the driving side hole, if there is nothing between them, just a thought, not sure if there was something between, but I kind a think there wasn't anything
@@JUrtanschannel Really appreciate your replying and ideas to help with this. I will look into this and let you know how i get on. Many thanks once again!
you never put a car on bricks he will be lucky if the bricks do not crack
my clutch is slipping and im loosing brake fluid somewhere... could it be because my concentric slave cylinder is leaking and making my clutch oily so thats the reason my clutch is slipping? i have vectra B 1999
because clutch was changed not too long ago..
Not sure, but if you are noticing that you are somewhere losing brake fluid and you suspect that it might be leaking clutch slave cylinder, well I would go for testing that out, just by pressing many, many times clutch pedal and looking under the clutch housing if there are any drops of brake fluid or not or any drops of brake fluid on the ground.. at least for mine car there is special drain hole and when I pressed clutch pedal, brake fluid started to drip out from there, when it was broken..
But yeah not sure if this ll be what is causing to slip clutch, cant imagine how brake fluid would get in to the clutch it self from slave cylinder..
UNREAL ! You need to tear the car apart
I Fuking hate combustion cars !
As soon as electric cars get a little cheaper I will change and never look back
Hi there, was wondering if you can help me, I have just had my clutch and csc changed and now the clutch pedal is quite squeaky and feels sqeaky and not smooth when depressed all the way to the floor and then raising it up slightly. Do you think the mecanic left air in the system or didn't fit it right, I'm not sure if i should bleed the system, is that possible with a csc without removing the clutch.
Hi! Well it is possible that some air might be still in the system or bleeding valve cap has popped open, for some reason mine did it for the first two times so I taped it in the place with some tape and since then it has been there all right and clutch is working good as well. I think, if they would install the csc incorrectly then you would have different sort of problems. You can easily inspect if the cap is on the bleeding valve and if it is connected in the system fully by just trying to push it inwards and outwards, it should stay there strong. To bleed the csc you wont need to take a part anything :) Have you asked mechanic about your problem?
@@JUrtanschannel I went back to mechanic and he said there's nothing a got quite rude to me and told me to f off :(. So I'm going to see if I can get it to another mechanic do check what you said or get my friend who has a ramp to check it out, thanks so much for your reply appreciate it a lot, Ill keep you updated on what happens
@@JUrtanschannel also my clutch pedal uses fluid, when I bleed the system will that bleed the fluid in the pedal assembly too
@@um3955 you can check it from above as well, it is at front of the engine, close to the middle of the radiator, a bit under the air intake and car battery. if you dont see it very well you can just put ur hand in there(if engine is not hot) and feel if the cap is on the valve and if it is not moving out of connector when you pull/push it a little bit. In my case the black plastic connector in middle of the video at 1:26:37 or under the battery 1:28:06, if it helps
@@JUrtanschannel thanks ill check that as soon as I get It on a lift, once I check that and if I needs bleeding will that bleed the air out of the clutch pedal unit too as my pedal assembly is hydraulic too
Hi, what’s is the name of the piece in the minute 1:24:22 thanks.
Clutch bleeding valve
Change clach paddle cylinder duster
por que no seve el vídeo? solo seve el principio?
Se pone a subir el pedal con el pie y vas a dañar los zapatos
Guzel
buen video para nosotros que no somos mecanicos, sin embargo este auto es una porqueria, de verdad una porqueria, comparado contra un nissan tsuru que tuve...nada que ver.. el tsuru es 1995 y el megane 2005 sin embargo le llegue a meter mucho mcho dinero al megane mientras al Tsuru solo su mantenimiento preventivo y el auto esta como nuevo mientras el megane ya le he cambiado casi todo! ahora la bomba, al tsuru jamas le cambie mas que el clutch una sola vez y lo use mucho mas que el megane, tsuru 210 mil kms, megane , 124 mil. jamas debi haber mal invertido mi dinero en esa porqueria de auto.
Cine naiba te chinuie să lucrezi așa?
Should this clown even be allowed to put this on here !
I challenge you to make a much better video how to do it if you are so smart and you can judge what is right and what is not! not just comments, but actual video from what I can learn something or at least see what is where and what I can remove and what I can't..
Get some axel stands instead, of bricks and the odd bit of wood before the whole thing comes down on your head fool.
Sorry mate it might have been a great Vid, but really unsafe to work under a car that's resting on bricks !
Why dont you make a better video?
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