Futures Fin Box Repair Using Aluzine Epoxy Resin
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- This week we are going to repair a Futures fin box using our Aluzine 2:1 surfboard epoxy resin. Due to the design of the Futures fin box, it’s pretty rare to have a box blow out completely. More often than not the damaged box remains in the board. This could be good or bad depending on the severity of the damage. If it’s really bad then you’ll have to either remove the box from the board or slowly route out the old fin box which is not fun, very time consuming and can fry your router bit. Luckily we were able to salvage the fin box, make the repair and get the board back in the water. Below is a list of products used in the repair that you can purchase on our website.
Aluzine 2:1 surfboard resin
Aluzine epoxy resin is known for its superior clarity, low viscosity and consistent workability. The low viscosity allows the resin to flow out and easily saturate the fiberglass, aramid, or carbon fibers of any project. This epoxy can be used on EPS and polyurethane foam cores with fantastic results. Aluzine is specifically designed for the manufacturing of surfboards and other high strength, lightweight composites.
8” medium Flexpad
-150 grit, 220 grit and 400 grit sandpaper
3/8” Futures fin box tape
Graduated mixing cup
3” chip brush
well done video on the repair! I like the fact you took the extra time to camouflage the white foam with purple tinted resin...nice touch. ( I used to airbrush something like that ) (my world for 25+ yrs building boards but my specialty ding repair) My world was glass ons...still love them. Just a suggestion for your two pieces of glass on top of the box.. put some wax paper on the board.... lay the two pieces of cloth on the wax paper... apply resin and squeegee on the wax paper lift wetted out cloth off and place on the box. (this is how we did glass ons very clean and minimal resin build up - super flush minimal bump minimal weight ..therefore after hot coat its so flat you barely hit glass when sanding....so all of your glass stays intact max strength . rock on!
Thank you! I have a 6 foot 2 board I got for free that has a damaged fun box. Looking forward to doing this
Awesome video! My fin box crack is pretty much identical, so hyped to use this video as guidance. Thanks!
a pleasure to watch!
Thanks so much, just what I needed
Awesome work
great vid!
nice vid as long your board hasnt water in it, it would be a total different approach
I love the way these videos are made, so clearly explained. I have a question if i wanted to reinforce a board all around should i just sand ot very well and then put an extra layer of glass, leaving all the heel dent in the deck as they are or shoul i fair them out with a fairing putty? Would that add too much weight? They are small though. The deepest one is that of the front foot and it is less than a 1/8 of an inch deep.
When you’re laminating with the fiber glass, how do you estimate the coat thickness? Thanks
Thanks but you only did one cloth and you showed to have two. Didn't look like you needed two... good work.
Actually this fin box needed to be completely pulled out and re seated. The cracking on the surface is a clear indication of the internal cracking and separation that can only be fixed by completely pulling out the fin box if you want the fin to be fully restored back to its original strength.
Hey I had a small rail crack and it wasn't serious enough for cloth etc basically just a solid spider crack that was just big enough to slowly take in water. Instead of using cloth I just used some epoxy sun cure to fill in the cracks and sanded it down to a point where I'm debating on doing a A+B hot coat to make sure it's fully sealed. Is it over kill to hot coat over the sun cure or is it a good idea? Thanks just wanted to double check because it's a board I use a lot and want to make sure I fix it as good as I can using the sun cure method
Make sure you sand the area first, every time with a 40-60 grit paper. I highly recommend using some 4oz cloth and just doing it all the way but to answer your question, yes it is overkill and no amount of resin will ever make up for skipping an initial sanding. Hope that helps
awesome video thanks!
Seems as if the base of the box was moving. Covering the top doesn't secure the base. Looks like you just secured the pivot point tor the fin to move again. What was the rationale to not remove and rework?
Great video! How much would a job like this cost?
Purple!
I see your repair was more serious then mine. My question is what if the ding is only surface deep? My box has a small hole in it, can i do what is shown here or is a crack enough to destroy the entire box?
It really depends on how big your crack is and where it is exactly. If the box itself is cracked than i would highly recommend replacing it. If the cloth and resin is cracked than 90% of the time i would recommend having the box be completely re seated, especially if the board is epoxy. Really need more info to know the best prescription for your particular ailment but I hope that helps.
This fin box definitely needed to be pulled out and reseated. It will re crack
I find it a bit hard to blend the cloth like you do around 3:52. How do you sand without weakening the cloth? Are there any signs to look for that gives you a hint that its time to stop sanding? I just laminated a ding a couple of days ago, and there is some high-spots mostly around the edges of the fiberglass. Love your videos, and hope you will make some more:-) Regards from Eirik.
The main focus is to sand all high spots, always feel your repair and press to get an idea of
what is too much. The second you start feeling the cloth getting softer is the second you should
stop, go with 80 grit on the edges then go higher n higher to prevent sand throughs, i do 80grit for edges then move up to maybe 220 and then 500 wet sand dry paper for the smaller stuff.
great vid. what do you do with the brush? what's the cleaning a process if there is one? Thanks!
Hey I'm sure you already figured this out but acetone is the best
Wouldn’t you need to pull the fin box up so that it’s flat again even though it’s sitting at the right angle? Seems like the repair would be weaker without the fin box sitting flush with the original glass job
Doesn't it clog your paper sanding before filler coat?
0:55: "and what we are gonna do here is basically sand off any high spots, weak spots and just basiscally the hot coat and get it back to the ..." to the what?
the weave
what does cc stand for
A CC is a unit of measurement that is usually associated with catalyst. Catalyst is the hardener used in polyester resin. Epoxy is a 2 ti 1 ratio and using a small digital scale programed to measure out in grams is a much more effective and simple way to measure out your material.