Note: I had this issue (4HI blinking, and VSC light on), I disconnected my 4hi plugs off the actuator, re-seated them, and poof it worked again flawlessly. Lest we forget, the external plugs are subject to as much or even more corrosion than the internal parts!! Or maybe it reset something with the 4wd computer? This was after trying jogging the switch back and forth, forward reverse directions, slow and fast, full tilt steering, banging on actuators with rubber mallet. 4hi, 4lo, and 2wd actuated easily. I am definitely going to exercise these actuators more often! For a minute I thought I'd be in this close to $1000. (This is on 2012 Tundra Crewmax).
Great feedback @bobadler3097 - Always appreciate the input from others who have had the same/similar issue. Helps build the knowledge base on how to affordably fix this common issue on this generation of Toyota’s.
Yeah, I hate that I can’t edit it down. It didn’t sound as loud on my iPhone as I was editing the original video. If I take it down and change it now, I’ll loose all my “views”. I’ve entertained the idea of releasing an edit of it
It’s not necessary to replace motor if it’s working, just pull the cover/motor assembly, leaving the gear set attached to the body. Twist the gear and manually force it into 4hi a few times to break everything loose, then reassemble everything and it should work just fine. Always unhook the battery first.
Is the gear you are referring to the one on screen at 1:45? And if so, does the vehicle need to be in neutral? How freely should it turn? And if it is not turning, is spraying penetrating oil on it recommended? Mine will not go into the 4wd hi or low...thinkiing about tackling hi first. Also, what kind of grease is that yellow grease? I've not removed anything yet, nervous about making things worse but would really like to get the 4wd working...Thanks so much!!!!
Hi Fred, yes, this is the gear the previous comment is referring to. I wouldn’t spray anything in there - you should be able to turn the gear and or pushrod slightly back and forth. The yellow grease is a Toyota specific type that if you call any dealership’s parts department, they should be able to tell you what it is if you explain where it’s located. It’s the same type they use on actuator’s in their HVAC systems and elsewhere if I remember correctly. I would also recommend putting the truck in neutral with the park brake on (naturally) and seeing if you can move the gear - also, try moving the selector switch on to 4Hi… good luck! Feel free to email me directly at jordan.c.jones@hotmail.com for more questions.
At 4:25 the solder on the left looks good, but the one one the right looks like a "cold joint" meaning you got the solder hot but not the metal to which you were soldering, and that will likely fail and break off; the best technique is to place the solder iron tip to the metal part you are soldering to get it to temp, and then touch the solder wire to it, once it starts to melt then you will have a good solder joint!
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching and commenting. I hope it helps you out. I was having a lot of frustration not having any solid information on how to fix this. The goal was to give people a resource to reference.
Thank you for the video. It would be a whole lot easier to hear you if you hadn't dubbed in music. I respect the fact you're trying to make the video more interesting having music however it's not really necessary in the learning type video. Nevertheless very much appreciate the video
Thanks for the tip - it was the first time using iMovie for this type of video and I didn’t realize the audio was SOO overdriven. I’ll never make a video again without checking the sound! Have a great day!
My 2010 Sequoia would go into 4Hi just fine, but wouldn't go into 4Lo. It would only flash 4Lo. For some reason it did not beep at me even though it wasn't in 4Lo. I tested this by putting it on four jack stands, then letting off the brake while in gear. After going to 4Lo (not actually locked in) I couldn't get it back out of 4Lo, or 4Hi without turning the ignition off. When I turned the ignition back on it would reset the system for me and the 4Lo light on the dash would go out. I took the 4Lo actuator cover off and found that the contacts under the big plastic gear were rusted looking. I used a paper towel to wiped all the brown gunk/rust off of both sides. Then I smeared some of the grease in the case back on the contact strips. I wasn't too sure about the "clocking" of the gears, so when I pulled the case off, I marked a tooth on the large gear with a sliver Shapie and put a dot on the case. I also jumped the motor with a 12v battery to make sure it worked. I did this while I had the large plastic gear removed. In addition to that, I tested the micro switch for continuity. Before replacing the actuator on the transfer case , I checked the shift rod to make sure it moved freely, which it moved easily. After putting it all back together it works great now. It must have been the dirty contacts that were causing the problem. One more thing to note, my vent hose was still connected but looked very similar to the one in this video. I tried to pull on it to get more tube so I could cut the end off and re-use it, but it wouldn't give me any slack. I ended up pulling the hose off the other end on accident. I found out it was attached to an 1/8" plastic tube. The nipple on the actuator case is about 3/16". The two different sizes is probably the reason the hose end on the actuator nipples are cracking. I ended up using some clear 1/8" fuel vent hose and made it fit over the actuator. Hopefully it doesn't crack like the original hose did. It's not a hard job and maybe took me an hour to do, plus the time to get it on jack stands. You only need a 12mm socket, some extensions, and a good Philps screwdriver to get the actuator out.
Hola ese sistema no usa aire ? Mi great wall h5 usa uno casi igual pero tiene unas líneas al parecer de respiradero , nose q pasa pero el diferencial delantero está siempre girando ( el cardan de la caja de transferencia al diferencial no gira) es colo q está trabado y escucho q ese controlador de engranajes si está moviéndose.
My vacuum hose was probably off for 2+ years. I just re-connected it today. I'll try disconnecting everything to see if it will fix the flashing 4wd indicators.
@Rogue951 Vent hose? I stand corrected. Not my area of expertise. It resembles the rubber vacumm lines under the hood. Must be a common thing that happens on 4th gens.
Great video. Im in the same boat currently. I'm working on the top motor/cover. Were you in 2wd/park when you began the project? What position was the actuator rod in when you removed the cover? was your gear set under spring tension when you removed it? my history: I was removing the transfer case and broke the vent pipe and electrical connection on top of the "top" cover. Im simply replacing the top cover. "simply" is an understatement. I've been cross-referencing videos to get a complete picture. my transfer case is out of the vehicle right now so the actuator is accessible. id like to get it set right before I put it back in. the original gears never came out of the actuator but they did release tension. Thanks for your help.
1:36 is a view/shot of looking down at the upper actuator….Let me watch the video again and find where I show how it looked when it came out of the unit for the clocking.
2:10 shows how the clocking looked. To answer your other questions. I was in 2WD and in Park. I never got a picture of the stroke of the push rod, sorry. I hope you’re able to get enough of an idea on what you need to fix your issue. I did however adjust the stroke of the push rod on the lower (4-Lo) actuator and that was a source of a lot of my errors/issues.
What were your initial lights that came on when trying to put it into 4hi? I have a 2010 now that blinks both the 4hi and locked center diff lights when I attempt to put it in 4hi. I’ve already had someone turn the truck to on and then turn the 4wd dial to 4hi and I hear no noise from the actuator.
If you watch the video, it will show you the proper clocking of the gears and their relationship. If you have more questions, please reach out at Jordan.c.jones@hotmail.com
There’s no existing part number for just the motor. Toyota only sells the actuators as an entire assembly that costs $1300 +/-. I got mine off a parts vehicle.
I found mine on eBay. I had no luck trying to find the motor alone - I looked for the PN - spent HOURS - to no avail. I ended up buying the assembly online - the guy sent me the gears/assembly - minus the push rod/fork arms that you don’t need. This fix didn’t require breaking into the transfer case - but the dealership will charge you to do so. 🙄
@@northwesttoyotas509 Could you send me the link to the buyer? I eventually got the motor to work but it is in terrible condition including rot on some areas. Getting it to work involved using methods typically not recommended but the corrosion issue that jammed it was resolved.
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Note: I had this issue (4HI blinking, and VSC light on), I disconnected my 4hi plugs off the actuator, re-seated them, and poof it worked again flawlessly. Lest we forget, the external plugs are subject to as much or even more corrosion than the internal parts!! Or maybe it reset something with the 4wd computer? This was after trying jogging the switch back and forth, forward reverse directions, slow and fast, full tilt steering, banging on actuators with rubber mallet. 4hi, 4lo, and 2wd actuated easily. I am definitely going to exercise these actuators more often! For a minute I thought I'd be in this close to $1000. (This is on 2012 Tundra Crewmax).
Great feedback @bobadler3097 - Always appreciate the input from others who have had the same/similar issue. Helps build the knowledge base on how to affordably fix this common issue on this generation of Toyota’s.
Great video Thankyou. A pity the music takes over so you can’t really call it background music.
Yeah, I hate that I can’t edit it down. It didn’t sound as loud on my iPhone as I was editing the original video. If I take it down and change it now, I’ll loose all my “views”. I’ve entertained the idea of releasing an edit of it
Excellent video and explanation to address this somewhat common 4WD issue in second gen Tundras. Thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful!
It’s not necessary to replace motor if it’s working, just pull the cover/motor assembly, leaving the gear set attached to the body. Twist the gear and manually force it into 4hi a few times to break everything loose, then reassemble everything and it should work just fine. Always unhook the battery first.
Is the gear you are referring to the one on screen at 1:45? And if so, does the vehicle need to be in neutral? How freely should it turn? And if it is not turning, is spraying penetrating oil on it recommended? Mine will not go into the 4wd hi or low...thinkiing about tackling hi first. Also, what kind of grease is that yellow grease? I've not removed anything yet, nervous about making things worse but would really like to get the 4wd working...Thanks so much!!!!
Hi Fred, yes, this is the gear the previous comment is referring to. I wouldn’t spray anything in there - you should be able to turn the gear and or pushrod slightly back and forth. The yellow grease is a Toyota specific type that if you call any dealership’s parts department, they should be able to tell you what it is if you explain where it’s located. It’s the same type they use on actuator’s in their HVAC systems and elsewhere if I remember correctly.
I would also recommend putting the truck in neutral with the park brake on (naturally) and seeing if you can move the gear - also, try moving the selector switch on to 4Hi… good luck! Feel free to email me directly at jordan.c.jones@hotmail.com for more questions.
@@northwesttoyotas509 Thank you!!!!!!!
@Pastor Fred - Check out my Shorts page, there’s a video in there that shows the clocking on the 4-Lo actuator and the push rod. Might help a little.
@@northwesttoyotas509 Excellent!
At 4:25 the solder on the left looks good, but the one one the right looks like a "cold joint" meaning you got the solder hot but not the metal to which you were soldering, and that will likely fail and break off; the best technique is to place the solder iron tip to the metal part you are soldering to get it to temp, and then touch the solder wire to it, once it starts to melt then you will have a good solder joint!
Thank you for the advice and feedback. I actually went back and re soldered the connections after the fact because I realized it was a cold joint.
Excellent! Fixed my issue, 2012 Tundra 🎉
Glad it helped!
Great video and details on how to do this. Thanks for the effort of recording it.
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching and commenting. I hope it helps you out. I was having a lot of frustration not having any solid information on how to fix this. The goal was to give people a resource to reference.
@@northwesttoyotas509 where did u find 4wheel computer
@@19rock54 Under the dash, on the passenger side. It tucked up and to the right along the frame/pillar.
Great vid, just kill the music next time.
Yeah!! I hate the soundtrack! :( First RUclips video I posted from iMovie. I wish I could change it.😢
Thank you for the video. It would be a whole lot easier to hear you if you hadn't dubbed in music. I respect the fact you're trying to make the video more interesting having music however it's not really necessary in the learning type video. Nevertheless very much appreciate the video
Thanks for the tip - it was the first time using iMovie for this type of video and I didn’t realize the audio was SOO overdriven. I’ll never make a video again without checking the sound! Have a great day!
Thank you so much this video is very informative and helped me in my workshop
My 2010 Sequoia would go into 4Hi just fine, but wouldn't go into 4Lo. It would only flash 4Lo. For some reason it did not beep at me even though it wasn't in 4Lo. I tested this by putting it on four jack stands, then letting off the brake while in gear. After going to 4Lo (not actually locked in) I couldn't get it back out of 4Lo, or 4Hi without turning the ignition off. When I turned the ignition back on it would reset the system for me and the 4Lo light on the dash would go out.
I took the 4Lo actuator cover off and found that the contacts under the big plastic gear were rusted looking. I used a paper towel to wiped all the brown gunk/rust off of both sides. Then I smeared some of the grease in the case back on the contact strips.
I wasn't too sure about the "clocking" of the gears, so when I pulled the case off, I marked a tooth on the large gear with a sliver Shapie and put a dot on the case. I also jumped the motor with a 12v battery to make sure it worked. I did this while I had the large plastic gear removed. In addition to that, I tested the micro switch for continuity. Before replacing the actuator on the transfer case , I checked the shift rod to make sure it moved freely, which it moved easily. After putting it all back together it works great now. It must have been the dirty contacts that were causing the problem.
One more thing to note, my vent hose was still connected but looked very similar to the one in this video. I tried to pull on it to get more tube so I could cut the end off and re-use it, but it wouldn't give me any slack. I ended up pulling the hose off the other end on accident. I found out it was attached to an 1/8" plastic tube. The nipple on the actuator case is about 3/16". The two different sizes is probably the reason the hose end on the actuator nipples are cracking. I ended up using some clear 1/8" fuel vent hose and made it fit over the actuator. Hopefully it doesn't crack like the original hose did. It's not a hard job and maybe took me an hour to do, plus the time to get it on jack stands. You only need a 12mm socket, some extensions, and a good Philps screwdriver to get the actuator out.
Excellent description of how you fixed it!! Thanks for sharing!
Hola ese sistema no usa aire ? Mi great wall h5 usa uno casi igual pero tiene unas líneas al parecer de respiradero , nose q pasa pero el diferencial delantero está siempre girando ( el cardan de la caja de transferencia al diferencial no gira) es colo q está trabado y escucho q ese controlador de engranajes si está moviéndose.
Just caught this video, strong work trouble shooting dude ! Money saved.
Stoked to help someone save money!! That’s awesome!!!
That Music ruined an otherways good video
Yeah, I agree. It was my first full length video like this editing with iMovie. The audio over drove the rest of it. Live and learn.
Hello. Please tell me how to properly install the rod and gear of the lower cover of the drive on the Toyota Tundra during assembly? (4H/4L)
If you watch the video, it will show you the proper orientation. If you need more help, please reach out directly at:
Jordan.c.jones@hotmail.com
Check out my Shorts page, there’s a video in there that shows the clocking on the 4-Lo actuator.
My vacuum hose was probably off for 2+ years. I just re-connected it today. I'll try disconnecting everything to see if it will fix the flashing 4wd indicators.
Its not a vacuum hose.
@Rogue951 Vent hose? I stand corrected. Not my area of expertise. It resembles the rubber vacumm lines under the hood. Must be a common thing that happens on 4th gens.
Great video. Im in the same boat currently. I'm working on the top motor/cover.
Were you in 2wd/park when you began the project? What position was the actuator rod in when you removed the cover? was your gear set under spring tension when you removed it?
my history: I was removing the transfer case and broke the vent pipe and electrical connection on top of the "top" cover. Im simply replacing the top cover. "simply" is an understatement. I've been cross-referencing videos to get a complete picture. my transfer case is out of the vehicle right now so the actuator is accessible. id like to get it set right before I put it back in. the original gears never came out of the actuator but they did release tension. Thanks for your help.
1:36 is a view/shot of looking down at the upper actuator….Let me watch the video again and find where I show how it looked when it came out of the unit for the clocking.
2:10 shows how the clocking looked.
To answer your other questions. I was in 2WD and in Park. I never got a picture of the stroke of the push rod, sorry. I hope you’re able to get enough of an idea on what you need to fix your issue. I did however adjust the stroke of the push rod on the lower (4-Lo) actuator and that was a source of a lot of my errors/issues.
What were your initial lights that came on when trying to put it into 4hi? I have a 2010 now that blinks both the 4hi and locked center diff lights when I attempt to put it in 4hi. I’ve already had someone turn the truck to on and then turn the 4wd dial to 4hi and I hear no noise from the actuator.
I initially had the 4hi and locked center diff light on when trying to engage 4Hi.
This is the same for me. Don’t hear anything trying to move or engage when I use the 4wd switch
Hi, can you explain or show me how to set low and high motor (timing the low and high motor) please. Thank You.
If you watch the video, it will show you the proper clocking of the gears and their relationship.
If you have more questions, please reach out at Jordan.c.jones@hotmail.com
Check out my Shorts page, there’s a video in there that shows the clocking on the 4-Lo actuator.
Could you tell me where and the part number you got the new motor?
There’s no existing part number for just the motor. Toyota only sells the actuators as an entire assembly that costs $1300 +/-. I got mine off a parts vehicle.
I have the same problem… noise and clicking and no forward movement and no rear… TOYOTA sequoia 2018
@@ccardo29 Any luck fixing it??
Can I purchase the 4LO outer actuator cover somewhere? Mine is missing the little metal arm on the side and gets stuck in 4lo
I have one extra if u want buy it
how has it held up? Has it gotten stuck again? I need to desparately work on mine! lol
It’s been good! Hasn’t had any issues for almost two years now. This fix truly helped and saved money.
@@northwesttoyotas509 awesome! My top rod seems to be getting stuck when trying to extend.
Where can I get the actuator motor? I am frustrated trying to locate the motor alone. Dealer charging me an arm and a kidney
I have a couple and new gears too. Ebay has the motors.. $3 or so.. the gear has to be cut off.. so u will need a gear I think..
I found mine on eBay. I had no luck trying to find the motor alone - I looked for the PN - spent HOURS - to no avail. I ended up buying the assembly online - the guy sent me the gears/assembly - minus the push rod/fork arms that you don’t need. This fix didn’t require breaking into the transfer case - but the dealership will charge you to do so. 🙄
@@northwesttoyotas509 Could you send me the link to the buyer? I eventually got the motor to work but it is in terrible condition including rot on some areas. Getting it to work involved using methods typically not recommended but the corrosion issue that jammed it was resolved.
@@northwesttoyotas509 any chance you could point me in the right direction for parts?
It was a random eBay search. I can’t seem to find the seller anywhere/anymore. :( sorry.
best yet on 4x4 actuator
Thank you!! 🙂
Nice
You didn’t show the final timing.
Check my Shorts feed there’s a good video of the clocking.
Dude, remove the music track, what's wrong with you?
I would LOVE to!! But you can’t wait a video after you post it on RUclips. 😣
@@northwesttoyotas509 ohhhh bummer, sorry I was ignorant of that fact...it really was distracting.