With so many quieter 12v extractor fans in the market, why did you fit that noisy thing? There are some that run at 25dB and still have a high enough flow rate (95m3/h) for a good sized bathroom.
Keep in mind the reason you have mold is due to lack of ventilation. While adding the fan is a start, the gaps around the door is not going to be enough to replace the air being sucked out. Not to mention that running the fan in negative pressure will cause it to draw more current and burn it out prematurely. A simple test is to measure the current with the door closed and then open.
hey, dont forget a bigger drip edge over the door to stop this from happening again. I'd just buy 1m of angled steel flashing, slide it in under the panels and screw it in.
Glad i'm not your neighbour, you can hear that fan halfway up the garden ! Be careful the neighbours don't think you're growing something in there :D PC fans would be quieter and use less power, you only need a flow, not a vacuum chamber
£750 or something for the shed and the door does not close correctly. The door needs a couple of millimetres planned off the lock side and a bevel put on it to stop the inside corner catching the frame when the door swells. Which really should have been done, to begin with for that money. And clean the mould off Julian. 😷
From a recent Big Clive video on hand sanitisers I would suggest getting some of the BAC50 chemical he mentions which when diluted can be used to spray on surfaces to kill algae, mould and bacteria. It should get rid of the remaining mould spores. Perhaps put a coat of waterproof varnish on the wood after clearing up the mould residue?
What is the roof made of? That looks like water is soaking the ceiling timber, condensation will not do that? Have you thought of painting with antimould paint, bathroom paint.
Tom George ... yes there is something fishy about that shed roof... like they have fitted the wrong sort of felt or an insufficient pitch-angle. I think if I had paid money for a shed like that I’d have the firm back to make good.
Thank you for the video. What fan/blower, vent tube, and external vent cover did you use? Would the fan be usable with a standard power/electrical socket? Thanks
A dehumidifier can dehumidify regardless of weather. I think a diy peltier-based one would be perfect for wet weather, and times you want to keep as much heat as possible in the shed. I also think it would make a great subject for a few videos. It can be made to run completely silent in low power mode, and when TECs are run at very low power they have decent efficiency. I had one of those cheap one can USB powered peltier fridges, and that managed to condensate water when humidity was only moderately high, with about 2 watts of power.
@@JuliansShorts Well, it depends very much on the circumstances. At very high relative humidity they can actually collect water at a rate that is meaningful for a small shed. Not to make the air dry, but keeping it from being to humid. To condense 1kg of water vapor you got to remove roughly 0.7 kWh of heat, at those low temperatures, plus the minute amounts of energy to cool the air to below the dew point. That should turn out somewhere in the vicinity of 1 kWh of cooling per kg of water. At really low power, TEC can have a COP of over 3, it can take as little as 3 watt to pump 10 watts of heat. Theoretically, and at the dew point you should be able to collect 10 grams of water per hour with only 3 watts of power. In reality, and at a little bit lower relative humidity 3 grams per hour at 3 watt power use should perhaps be considered acceptable. At say 10° C and 100% relative humidity you have roughly 8 grams of water per kilogram of air, and roughly 1.25 kg of air per cubic meter. That is, roughly 10 grams of water per cubic meter, total. You need to get rid of less than half of that in order to avoid problems. I don't know the exact air volume in the shed, or the actual "inflow" of water, but without actual liquid water actively getting in, you should be set with a peltier based unit that draws only 3 watt, if you do it right. If you want more you can get more TECs, and run them in parallel at very low power, to keep them efficient, they cost a couple pounds each. We all love solutions as brutal as possible, we want to see and hear and be able to measure that something actually happens within seconds. But when drying out wood you immediately run in to the law of diminishing returns when you try to do it as fast as possible. Under the top millimeter or so, you can't dry the wood very much in a short time by just lowering the humidity of the air.
I have the same plan for my shed, but I am going to throw an Arduino in there with a couple of humidity sensors around the shed, if humidity to gets to high, Arduino will latch relay and fan will come on.. can also make it so if the fan is noisy, it will not switch on during the night and won’t cause that much of an annoyance.
So you've essentially made a negative internal ventilation system. Positive internal ventilation systems are used in homes to help keep humidity levels reasonable, we had one fitted to our home and it cured the mold and condensation issues. Perhaps your fan would work better if it pressurised the shed?
That is shifting a hell of a lot of air. Wonder if when it's installed the solar power will be enough to keep it topped up. Lol @ all the people talking about baby spiders getting through the mesh. They're all going to be sent flying!
Add another humidity sensor and put it outside. Then compare it to the one inside the shed. You can set a threshold value for humidity, and get rid of the remote. Possibly add a voltage sensor to prevent draining the battery.
WTF lol that fan is totally over kill and to be honest Julian im shocked and ashamed that a person of your electronic skills has not already made an automated moisture sensor board to control the fan... Your an interesting person. Keep it up. Ow though the level of IP rating on your outdoor electronics and battery's makes me cry inside lol. :P
ideally you could do with a hygrometer outside so you wouldn't activate the fan when the humidity was higher outside. Also how did you decide on the fan diection? Would it not be better to suck rather than blow? that way you could control where your fresh air is coming from?
Hi Julian - I using win 10 & Google chrome browser - And now have a new icon in the top right - CONTROL YOUR MUSIC VIDEO AND MORE - Trying to take control of my sound card - Anyone know how to get rid of it from chrome ?-
Subscribed as requested :) (came from the other channel). Just a simple suggestion - you could consider PWMing the fan down to a lower speed when the humidity isn't super-high. It would make the noise a bit less (for your neighbours!), and extend both the fan and batteries' lives.
You should of used your diesel heater, it would be simple to get working again, . In your first attempt you did everything wrong. Just do some RUclips searches.
Looking good, Julian. If this is kicking in on a quiet, still night, won't the neighbours be annoyed by the sound of the fan? I know our's would moan and complain.
With so many quieter 12v extractor fans in the market, why did you fit that noisy thing?
There are some that run at 25dB and still have a high enough flow rate (95m3/h) for a good sized bathroom.
Keep in mind the reason you have mold is due to lack of ventilation. While adding the fan is a start, the gaps around the door is not going to be enough to replace the air being sucked out. Not to mention that running the fan in negative pressure will cause it to draw more current and burn it out prematurely. A simple test is to measure the current with the door closed and then open.
Glad you managed to find a battery clip - battery on a box full of them :-)
;)
Solar panel and some pc fans would vent when the sun comes out
that will be just when you want to vent too in dry air times
Like it :)
I bet your neighbours love you.
Don't depend on dry days in UK, make a passive air inlet with the air passing thru humidity absorbents.
hey, dont forget a bigger drip edge over the door to stop this from happening again. I'd just buy 1m of angled steel flashing, slide it in under the panels and screw it in.
I was thinking 2ft of plastic guttering drilled and screwed directly above the door.
You forgot the activated carbon filter and lights......
Glad i'm not your neighbour, you can hear that fan halfway up the garden !
Be careful the neighbours don't think you're growing something in there :D
PC fans would be quieter and use less power, you only need a flow, not a vacuum chamber
If my neighbours thought I was growing something - they'd be straight round to negotiate best price ;)
Now you are set to grow your own weed!
Bill and Ben would have something to say about that ;)
@@JuliansShorts Sadly Ben has gone and you are only left with old Bill.
£750 or something for the shed and the door does not close correctly. The door needs a couple of millimetres planned off the lock side and a bevel put on it to stop the inside corner catching the frame when the door swells. Which really should have been done, to begin with for that money. And clean the mould off Julian. 😷
From a recent Big Clive video on hand sanitisers I would suggest getting some of the BAC50 chemical he mentions which when diluted can be used to spray on surfaces to kill algae, mould and bacteria. It should get rid of the remaining mould spores. Perhaps put a coat of waterproof varnish on the wood after clearing up the mould residue?
New project - speed controller to dial down speed if moisture level low?
What is the roof made of?
That looks like water is soaking the ceiling timber, condensation will not do that?
Have you thought of painting with antimould paint, bathroom paint.
Tom George ... yes there is something fishy about that shed roof... like they have fitted the wrong sort of felt or an insufficient pitch-angle. I think if I had paid money for a shed like that I’d have the firm back to make good.
Thank you for the video. What fan/blower, vent tube, and external vent cover did you use? Would the fan be usable with a standard power/electrical socket? Thanks
Fan works great if ya dont mind the sound of a 747 lmmfao
A dehumidifier can dehumidify regardless of weather. I think a diy peltier-based one would be perfect for wet weather, and times you want to keep as much heat as possible in the shed. I also think it would make a great subject for a few videos. It can be made to run completely silent in low power mode, and when TECs are run at very low power they have decent efficiency.
I had one of those cheap one can USB powered peltier fridges, and that managed to condensate water when humidity was only moderately high, with about 2 watts of power.
Those Peltier units are hopeless - half a teaspoonful a week - need something much more powerful.
@@JuliansShorts Well, it depends very much on the circumstances. At very high relative humidity they can actually collect water at a rate that is meaningful for a small shed. Not to make the air dry, but keeping it from being to humid.
To condense 1kg of water vapor you got to remove roughly 0.7 kWh of heat, at those low temperatures, plus the minute amounts of energy to cool the air to below the dew point. That should turn out somewhere in the vicinity of 1 kWh of cooling per kg of water.
At really low power, TEC can have a COP of over 3, it can take as little as 3 watt to pump 10 watts of heat. Theoretically, and at the dew point you should be able to collect 10 grams of water per hour with only 3 watts of power. In reality, and at a little bit lower relative humidity 3 grams per hour at 3 watt power use should perhaps be considered acceptable.
At say 10° C and 100% relative humidity you have roughly 8 grams of water per kilogram of air, and roughly 1.25 kg of air per cubic meter. That is, roughly 10 grams of water per cubic meter, total. You need to get rid of less than half of that in order to avoid problems.
I don't know the exact air volume in the shed, or the actual "inflow" of water, but without actual liquid water actively getting in, you should be set with a peltier based unit that draws only 3 watt, if you do it right. If you want more you can get more TECs, and run them in parallel at very low power, to keep them efficient, they cost a couple pounds each.
We all love solutions as brutal as possible, we want to see and hear and be able to measure that something actually happens within seconds. But when drying out wood you immediately run in to the law of diminishing returns when you try to do it as fast as possible. Under the top millimeter or so, you can't dry the wood very much in a short time by just lowering the humidity of the air.
I have the same plan for my shed, but I am going to throw an Arduino in there with a couple of humidity sensors around the shed, if humidity to gets to high, Arduino will latch relay and fan will come on.. can also make it so if the fan is noisy, it will not switch on during the night and won’t cause that much of an annoyance.
Unless it's heated, compare humidity inside & outside. No need to pull in even wetter air!
erlendse if it’s heated then most of the problems with mould and damp tend to go away away, but yeah, good point.
Idea for a project, arduino with 2 moisturesensors and automate it so it runs when moisture inside is greater then outside?
Hey, that's my idea ;)
Put a foam pad or rubber pad between that motor and wood, should quiet it down a bit.
So you've essentially made a negative internal ventilation system.
Positive internal ventilation systems are used in homes to help keep humidity levels reasonable, we had one fitted to our home and it cured the mold and condensation issues.
Perhaps your fan would work better if it pressurised the shed?
That vent sounds like my neighbours boiler 😤😤😤
You should get two humidity sensors. One in the inside and another one outside so you can see if it worth turning the fan on or not
That is shifting a hell of a lot of air. Wonder if when it's installed the solar power will be enough to keep it topped up.
Lol @ all the people talking about baby spiders getting through the mesh. They're all going to be sent flying!
Do I hear speed control with a humidity pid?
That would involve too much code to view without scrolling so sadly won't happen. A shame because it would actually be interesting, well to me anyway.
@@Ed.R It's not PID, but "analogWrite((humidityReading*2),motorPin)" fits on one line :)
Add another humidity sensor and put it outside. Then compare it to the one inside the shed. You can set a threshold value for humidity, and get rid of the remote. Possibly add a voltage sensor to prevent draining the battery.
A astronomer told me if the airflow is returnet you can avoid a lot of insects.
WTF lol that fan is totally over kill and to be honest Julian im shocked and ashamed that a person of your electronic skills has not already made an automated moisture sensor board to control the fan... Your an interesting person. Keep it up. Ow though the level of IP rating on your outdoor electronics and battery's makes me cry inside lol. :P
ideally you could do with a hygrometer outside so you wouldn't activate the fan when the humidity was higher outside.
Also how did you decide on the fan diection? Would it not be better to suck rather than blow? that way you could control where your fresh air is coming from?
And you could filter the incoming air to keep dust out of the shed.
Hi Julian - I using win 10 & Google chrome browser - And now have a new icon in the top right - CONTROL YOUR MUSIC VIDEO AND MORE - Trying to take control of my sound card - Anyone know how to get rid of it from chrome ?-
It's a new feature of Chrome, you're best of learning to live with it.
I think it's a big improvement.
I'd like to hear more about your LEGO habit...
Subscribed as requested :) (came from the other channel). Just a simple suggestion - you could consider PWMing the fan down to a lower speed when the humidity isn't super-high. It would make the noise a bit less (for your neighbours!), and extend both the fan and batteries' lives.
That will be possible when I swap the relay for a MOSFET switch :)
You should of used your diesel heater, it would be simple to get working again, . In your first attempt you did everything wrong. Just do some RUclips searches.
I should have used my diesel heater.
Some people just love to complicate things. All you need is a gable vent or a roof turbine...
Are you going to add a monitor to your transmitter setup?
Like the new Clue board from Adafroot. www.adafruit.com/product/4500
Uh, i found a secret video :)
Don’t shed any light on it!
Awesome shed pun - check out the name of my new YT channel: ruclips.net/channel/UCXfDjPehpC7B7lW2JFxeS4w
listen to the revs of fan when door is shut, then open door, if fan speed change you are likely shortening life of fan motor.
Why would it be so? It's quite natural for motors to change speed with load, especially those motors.
Are you expecting it would run faster with the door shut?
Stalled blades and less cooling?
I thought vents were squares BOY WERE I WRONG!
I did the same for my shed but with a AC infinity
Blimey, your neighbours are going to love you if that fan kicks off in the middle of the night! :-)
Julian demonstrates his definition of getting a "blower" in his Shorts :)
1 person likes their sheds mouldy.
Looking good, Julian. If this is kicking in on a quiet, still night, won't the neighbours be annoyed by the sound of the fan? I know our's would moan and complain.
I guess I could add PWM control and a real time clock. That way night-time running could be done at half power. Cheers Andy :)
Julian's Shorts - or instead of a RTC, use a phototransistor 😉
So I have a panel box and plugs in my shed so I just plug it in lol
Is it a new shed? Shouldn't you get whoever built it to come back and do it properly? To be honest Julian...it's a bit of a shit show.
Might be useful to add a moisture sensor both inside and outside to automatically turn it on/off when useful.
I pity your neighbours.
If your run it when raining your going to suck water into the shed. poor Batteries. Buy the poor things a box.
The batteries have a box - a very large £850 wooden box ;)
Turn around, I think I saw some buck converters there to adj fan speed. Hehe