Spoke with the friends at the SoundProofingCompany about this when doing my build, and they now recommend a “High Quality 50 yr Painters Caulk” and to ensure that it has a flexible sealant.
I was just doing some research on this. Super DAP230 is an option, USG acoustical ceiling is an option, similar to green blue sealant but a fraction of the price.
great video! I have a quick question regarding walls. 2 of my future studio walls are actualy walls that are exterior walls of the house on the other side (cedar shingles on the outside), I obvs can't do 2x5/8 inch drywall on the outside of the house, what would you recommend for the interior walls in this scenario? Thank you!
I have heard that acoustic caulk doesn't harden and dry up like regular caulk many times. However, I question this. Pure silicone caulk stays flexible for many years. Do we have proof that "acoustic" caulk is really better than silicone over time. What is acoustic caulk made of that normal caulk is not? It seem the goal of all caulk would be to remain sealed over time
In the end it’s the flexibility you are looking for. This is one of those small details I don’t lose sleep over, but you could see if silicone remains flexible.
Those are the hardest. Mass is your friend - 2-4 layers of 5/8 inch drywall decoupled. You can use green glue or MLV if you want to go all out. I prefer Green glue over MLV.
@@nat.serrano you can put 30 layers of drywall on your wall, but the base frequencies may still enter your space through the roof or ceiling above,… It’s quite a challenge! In my research found that most professionals say double layer of 5/8 inch drywall is one of the most efficient DIY attempts. Even better, with resilient channel. Still, I don’t think that’s enough to block anything below 100 or 80 Hz.!
@@GregoryGuay yes I agree, it's impossible, I added two layers of drywall, the issue is that the usa wood houses lack mass (wood + drywall) instead of stone/brick. The thin walls in houses act literally as speakers, the secret is to avoid the walls to vibrate. my solution was to make custom walk in closets in the walls facing the noise, the clothes inside act as insultation to block the waves :p
I probably shouldn’t split hairs over this, but you know… Well, my room is a barn shape, so, of course I can add the caulked gap between the front/back walls and the side walls, and probably along the angled portion of the barn shape that touches the ceiling, but it would look pretty crappy with a caulked joint along the length of the wall at the lower portion of that angled barn shape where it meets the knee wall.I’m basically on a second floor large attic… Any pointers on that?
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Spoke with the friends at the SoundProofingCompany about this when doing my build, and they now recommend a “High Quality 50 yr Painters Caulk” and to ensure that it has a flexible sealant.
What are your thoughts on that?
@@AaronDaniels123 That makes sense. The key is that the caulk is flexible and of high enough quality that it will never break its seal.
I was just doing some research on this. Super DAP230 is an option, USG acoustical ceiling is an option, similar to green blue sealant but a fraction of the price.
230 is a dream to work with. Highly recommend for folks who aren't pros and also folks who are pros.@@GregoryGuay
Great resource! With a room in a room, does it make sense to caulk all corners where timbere meets timber or OSB meets timber?
Yes on the final layer. I think it is overkill to caulk each layer.
@@soundproofyourstudio And does that go for the outer room of the 2 would you say? I.e. the outer shell. Or is that overkill?
Did you mud over the top the sealant?
Yes
great video! I have a quick question regarding walls. 2 of my future studio walls are actualy walls that are exterior walls of the house on the other side (cedar shingles on the outside), I obvs can't do 2x5/8 inch drywall on the outside of the house, what would you recommend for the interior walls in this scenario? Thank you!
Gonna make a vid on this shortly
Do you think acoustic caulk is needed if walls are brick walls so no bottom plate?
I have heard that acoustic caulk doesn't harden and dry up like regular caulk many times. However, I question this. Pure silicone caulk stays flexible for many years. Do we have proof that "acoustic" caulk is really better than silicone over time. What is acoustic caulk made of that normal caulk is not? It seem the goal of all caulk would be to remain sealed over time
In the end it’s the flexibility you are looking for. This is one of those small details I don’t lose sleep over, but you could see if silicone remains flexible.
To me, the proof is nearly every professional acoustic designer that has published a book and then research.
how can I sound proof a wall against low frequency sound from a nearby bar? (bass beats)
Those are the hardest. Mass is your friend - 2-4 layers of 5/8 inch drywall decoupled. You can use green glue or MLV if you want to go all out. I prefer Green glue over MLV.
@@soundproofyourstudio wait, so just drywall with green glue is better than MLV + drywall??
@@nat.serrano you can put 30 layers of drywall on your wall, but the base frequencies may still enter your space through the roof or ceiling above,… It’s quite a challenge! In my research found that most professionals say double layer of 5/8 inch drywall is one of the most efficient DIY attempts. Even better, with resilient channel. Still, I don’t think that’s enough to block anything below 100 or 80 Hz.!
@@GregoryGuay yes I agree, it's impossible, I added two layers of drywall, the issue is that the usa wood houses lack mass (wood + drywall) instead of stone/brick. The thin walls in houses act literally as speakers, the secret is to avoid the walls to vibrate. my solution was to make custom walk in closets in the walls facing the noise, the clothes inside act as insultation to block the waves :p
I probably shouldn’t split hairs over this, but you know… Well, my room is a barn shape, so, of course I can add the caulked gap between the front/back walls and the side walls, and probably along the angled portion of the barn shape that touches the ceiling, but it would look pretty crappy with a caulked joint along the length of the wall at the lower portion of that angled barn shape where it meets the knee wall.I’m basically on a second floor large attic… Any pointers on that?
You can caulk it but then you mud and drywall over it. It will look clean in the end.
@@soundproofyourstudio are you available for a 30min hired video chat consult?
Drywall shouldnt he touching the floor anyways , regardless of soundproofing
Right on