Grizzly G0453z Helical Planer- Was It A Good Buy Or Poor Decision- 15 Years Of Ownership!!
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Should You Buy one or not. Let's look at my Grizzly G0453z Planer as i decide whether to keep it or not. Please watch the video and let me know if you have any questions. This is part of a long series of shop remodel projects so stay tuned for the next one. As always, I really appreciate you watching and if you found this video helpful please give it a Thumbs Up and Subscribe to my channel. Please leave comments as I love positive interaction with my viewers.
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Enjoyed the video really interesting, I've often wondered how many users of machines with this type of cutterhead are unhappy with the finished result expecting it to be faultless and to require almost no sanding afterwards. Good insight of the other side of the coin for potential buyers because they might also get a duff one. Tony
Yes Tony I don’t even know if I’ve ever seen or heard anyone mention this problem. This is why I put it on here. Hopefully more people watch the video.
Take the wheel off when filling the trans fluid. You can take off the outer cover behind it and re-grease
the chain. Do the same to the chain that raises the bed, up inside the base of the unit.
You can adjust the fit of the rollers and kickback teeth so it makes no marks. If you’re taking a pass too thin to cut you’ll get little teeth marks on any planer.
Everything can move after transport so you should have adjusted everything to factory spec.
It’s a good planer. Should have kept it and just inspected all the tolerances.
Biggest weakness is design of the chip shroud.
Thanks for the review! I'm looking at buying this machine second hand, I expected the snipe & could deal with the leak but the tracks it leaves on the wood might be a deal breaker.
You’re welcome. Yes the tracks are annoying. But other than that, it’s pretty cool. I mean it plows through material fast and tear out free. And it’s quiet. My new little dewalt is so slow and loud. I got it for temporary until I decide to do. But it’s nice to remove a tiny bit of material cleanly.
Both the Grizzly and the Powermatic planers are made in the same factory. The only differences are cosmetic. JPW Industries (owner of Powermatic, Jet, & Baileigh) all use the same source as Grizzly they are called Geetech. Chiu Ting Machinery CO LTD or Geetech makes most if not all Twain sourced planers for the US market. The most affordable small planer that I can think of that will give great results would be a Hammer A3 41D. For your size of shop I would just sell it and your Delta jointer and get a Felder or SCMI combo machine. For me I just keep a Delta around and use as needed. Most stock I order s3s for $0.11 a bd ft and use a widebelt for finished product thickness (door & face frame).
I’m not sure if I want to get another planer at this point. I may and if I do it will be a combo machine made by scm or similar. I just need long support tables. Sometimes the combo machines have short tables. These are expensive as you know, but would be an major improvement over the grizzly. My dj20 is really sweet but the added jointer width of a euro combo machine would be nice.
One of my friend told me the Martin from Germany supply the best quality products compare with other woodworking machines.
@@csptooling yes they are very nice but stupid expensive.
Not the same exactly. PM use better motors, usually Baldor. Better machining of internal parts. Better warranty.
change out the metal out roller for the older rubber roller
Helical heads can be finicky when setting the inserts. The screws that hold the inserts all need to be torqued equally or they dressing tend to have those track marks on them. Using a low pound torque wrench makes it easy to get them all the same... cool video keep them coming 😎
Thanks for watching. This was like this from the get go. I never touched the knives until after many years. They lasted a long time before I needed to turn them. It’s just a poor design. My byrd shelix on my jointer doesn’t do this.
There is some control for snipe. For pieces of that are 4 feet or shorter use a 3/4” piece of quality plywood or MDF that is waxed. Lower the bed to accommodate the plywood bed then place the piece on top of the plywood and run it through. The piece being planed should slide on the waxed surface and it continually supports the piece being planed. As for the lines showing up on the wood being planed this usually happens when trying to take to thin of a cut.
The grooves are from the cutters. Unfortunately. They are on every piece regardless of how deep a cut. When I take a skim cut, the feed rollers leave a lot of nasty indentations all over the boards. So I learned early on to take a minimum 1/16” pass. But all is okay as I sold it. Has it since new and tried so many things to get it to not leave the lines from cutters and sadly nothing worked. But it’s not my problem anymore. Lol. Thanks for watching.
Finally bought a 15" powermatic from the 90s. Byrd head was ordered today.
I’m sure you’re going to love that machine with that head on it especially. I really loved my delta Dj 20 jointer with the byrd head. Amazing that I never had to rotate the cutters on my byrd head and it still was cutting so nicely. You’re going to love it I think. My new to me planer has a Tersa head and it’s pretty sweet.
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore after I get a month or two with the planner I'm probably bite the bullet and get a helix for my DJ 20 as well.
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore Tersa? Got me googling now..... 2nd time I've heard that name.
I didn’t know you had a dj20 also. Nice. I just sold mine and it was strange to come in my shop the next day without it there. It’s like a part me was gone. I loved it. I hope you get a byrd head for yours as of course they’re awesome.
by the way, how have you been doing? I hope everything is going great for you. Hope you’ve been very busy with work.
If you’re getting that much snipe you have something set up wrong. That just the facts. The issues you’re having is more from your machine not being set up correctly and lack of knowledge
Interesting viewpoint. Machine wasn’t able to be setup any other way. Pressure feed rollers were changed and nothing helped. The results were never different no matter what I did. Well it’s a moot point as it’s out of my shop and not my problem anymore. lol.
I've got the powermatic 20" helical... it also leaves the striations you're describing.
Very interesting. Do you run the prices through a drum sander after?
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore yes, parts get run through a jet 22-44 ods drum sander following the planer for final sizing. They still have to be finish sanded following that.
@@manofinterests334 I understand. This would help for sure. Thanks.
How old is the planer? I bought this planer earlier this year. It has a spiral cutterhead and I don't get the lines or snipe. I wonder if Grizzly has addressed these issues? Also the price has gone up considerably! Lol
It’s the reason I sold it. The price. Everything has gone up so much I figured it was a great time. I bought it in 2006 I believe. It was respectively inexpensive but still much more than my lunchbox planer I had before. Everything was good on it except the lines and leaking gasket. The snipe is pretty normal for planers even very nice ones, so I didn’t really expect it to not to snipe. The grizzly decals on it were not so great but that’s not too bad either. I’m glad to hear yours isn’t doing this. I’m sure they had much problems reported from it. They couldn’t help me with the lines. They saw them and said it’s the design. But I certainly should have contacted them about the leaking gasket. I’ve heard some getting all new machines because of the leaking gasket. It was an inconvenience to have to clean around it every so often. Not the end of the world.
How well did the 3 hp motor on this thing handle what you threw at it, especially with 1/8" deep cuts? Sounds like it runs basically like new so I'm guessing it had plenty of power even on deeper cuts?
As for your problem with those tracks...from what I've heard, these segmented heads are pretty notorious for leaving a series of tracks that require extra sanding to get rid of. $1500 also seems like a bit of a steal for one of these considering the price has doubled since you got yours'. My experience with my Grizzly jointer has been light years better than your experience with this planer has been, but it's also only a 6" wide one and even as a hobbyist I've outgrown its size.
Something you might consider is looking for a used vintage one that's in good working order and just touching it up a bit. You can sometimes score great deals on those and they're often much more rugged than their modern counterparts. For instance, just look at the older stuff by companies like Oliver or Powermatic and compare it to the more recent stuff. Older stuff was built like a tank, newer stuff not so much. I'm planning on finding and buying an old Oliver 166 (12" model, specifically) in the next few years to replace my 6" model and other than repairs and upkeep, it'll probably last me the rest of my life.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I think that the tracks left by this one is more severe than anything I’ve seen before. They are very hard to deal with. However other than this little problem, and of course the leaking gasket which really isn’t that big of a deal, the planer handled everything I threw at it with ease. I mean I planed a ton of stuff and it just blew through it all. Never having any issues with power. I will say, if wanted to take a very light pass, say a 1/32” it would leave very bad marks from the rollers and such. So basically I never took light passes. I like my new planer for that. It takes extremely light passes and leaves a really good finish. All though pretty slow and very loud. I do love the old iron but for me this new little planer is really quite helpful. Good luck with your Oliver purchase down the road. I’m sure it will be very nice.
I wonder if it’s the metal rollers leaving the tracks. Could be that upgrading to rubber rollers solves that issue?
Everything was looked at but nothing appeared to fix it. Grizzly techs couldn’t help either. But it’s sold so it’s cool.
sounds like your better off with a spiral head . these complicated high priced machines more expense with MORE HEADACHE AND STRESS
The head style I think isn’t the problem, it’s the grizzly head that is. My byrd on the dj20 jointer is perfect. No marks. So I think this is a result of the grizzly head. I’ve heard that maybe it’s better now than before with the grizzly planer. So maybe they aren’t leaving those marks anymore.
i am finding more and more the grizzly line is just about junk with all the tolerances way off ...built cheap sold expensive. I do have a shop full of grizzly but may be drifting into JET or other higher end manufacture ....nice vid thank you@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore
@@chevyvega6622 yes I think grizzly used to be economical and it was okay because the price reflected the quality but now the price is so high but still isn’t good quality. Go figure. Im glad that you liked the video. Thanks for sharing.
Snipe and surface finish is irrelevant when the planer is supposed to get it close, drum sander gets it spot on.
Just bought a jet helical version used (2012 model) and it leaves tracks. I was told it was older knives so I turned all the cutters and still get the tracks. Very disappointing.
Very sorry to hear this. I’m surprised that more people don’t know of this problem.
Hi Michael. Did you clean all the residew off the inserts and clean the seats on the cutterhead so the inserts seated correctly? Just thought I'd ask because they make it look easy and foolproof when demonstrating these on a new unused machine. Tony
it leaves tracks cause the carbide is not sitting perfectly flat, you have to throughly clean them out when rotating the pieces if they don't sit perfect flat they will leave lines
Is there a planer that doesn't cause snipe?
I’ve never seen one. Even the most expensive planers and drum sanders I’ve seen can snipe. Some more than others.
yes, you need a planer that has a pressure bar, that is what keeps snipe from happening, its going to be on a bigger machine although a powermatic 100 or 160 would have one too