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@@tristanmarshall5633 I’m so glad to hear that. Thank you.

@@raulzamaniego2457 the only thing that happened was the shifter wouldn’t move well at all. This made it very hard to put into drive. But once it was in gear it drove fine

@@Hog-g2z thank you very much for the kind words. It sounds like you have a lot of experience and some nice machines. Serious machinery for sure.

@@G.I.JeffsWorkbench thanks Jeff.

Thanks so much for the great comments. I appreciate it. I really enjoy the cordless jigsaws out there and agree with you. Is your jigsaw a barrel grip or d handle normal grip style? It’s a dewalt?

@ Yes it’s a Dewalt. Barrel grip. I have several Festool tools including that jigsaw..(Tracksaw in the works). Square sander like your little one and the rotex. Dust collection of course which was a game changer. I mean you can sand in your living room watching Tv. Hahahaha. Been in the game since the 80’s. So I’m lovin these tools we have today. The things we did with practically nothing. Yikes. Really nice router table by the way.

Hey there. Thanks for the great comments and I’m glad you found the video. I looked at the machine you bought and it looks very nice. The shape of the throat plate is very different than mine however. If they were the same, I’d say I’d sell you one of my extras. I made several extra. This stuff is great to make them out of but man is it tough to machine. And it really dulls blades that are used to cut it. So I sacrificed some of my blades and router bits to make them and I knew I could get them sharpened so it’s okay. Lol. I’d suggest you use a phenolic or something that isn’t so tough to machine. Plus the stuff I used was very expensive and you have to buy a big sheet. I do have extra and if you lived nearby I could sell it to you for cheap. It is very durable though and the throat plates don’t get eaten away like wood during use. They are still perfect for 3 years after making. Quite remarkable. Have you thought about different materials you could use for your saw? How do you like your saw? Did you get any accessories with it?

@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore David, thank you for the thorough and thoughtful reply, much appreciated. After watching your video I did look into purchasing the same material and got a little sticker shock! I'll look into some other options and see what i can come up with. I also have access to a machine shop through my day-job so may enlist them as well. I really like the SC4e, its my first slider, so was definitely a bit of a transition, but have added a Fritz and Franz jig from David Bedrosian and have found it to be invaluable. The SC4e come pretty well equipped with an 8.5' throw, main truck and a second miter guage which is really nice. I did upgrade to the Minimax overhead dust extractor which i really like. The dust management is excellent with my Oneida dust collector and Nordfab ductwork. I'm a hobbiest, we built and moved into a new home in June and i have an 18x30 shop off the back of the garage. I am still getting things set up, but so far so good and am delighted with the saw. I'm on IG @larry_old.mans.timber if you wanna follow along. Best wishes once again. ljw

So glad you enjoyed it and I appreciate your feedback.

Yes I think you’d be okay with that. Just as long as the parts aren’t too heavy going across. You could always weigh the base down if it was necessary.

The batteries were terrible but worked once charged. They served me well once charged. The video was about the Propride. Take care.

@@poconojoe90 you’ve obviously not seen any of my videos. I use it exclusively in my router stations. You’re totally mistaken. It’s phenomenal.

@ The only video I saw that came close to demonstrating this router was the video entitled “router table or shaper”. In that video you had to perform all router adjustments from underneath the table, including completely removing the router in order to replace the bit. I’m only critical because the video states this is the “best router for router table production”. The 3 1/4 hp Triton router is designed for above table operation and includes a height adjustment rod. It also raises the bits high enough so that you can change them out above the table as well… no need to remove the router. It retails for $329. Otherwise, I really like your Powermatic shaper… those things rock.

You’re incorrect. This router can do all those things you’re talking about. I just don’t use it that way. I prefer to make my adjustments via the micro adjust on the base. But this, like many other routers can be adjusted from above the table. You really should do your research before making these incorrect comments. If you’re happy with your triton that’s great, but after nearly 20 years with these being used almost daily, I can make the claim that this is perhaps the best router for production shops.

Hey thank you. I actually have a video specifically on building the fence. Or one like it. Here is the link. ruclips.net/video/-OC1BF7qeI8/видео.htmlsi=k1k_xHjJtUS8jGdo Also the insert cutter that I’m using isn’t available on Amazon. You have to go to infinity cutting tools web site and look for insert pro raised panel cutter head.

@@bryanspelhaug2135 hey that’s pretty cool that you did some 8” ones. I love the at-8. Are those the ones you have? Mine are just like they were when I did them. Perfect.

@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore The one's I have are the Re 20's purchased in 1998. I let the foam cure overnight and tried them this morning and they sound like the day we got them! Thanks for the update on your speakers and for posting the how too video!

@@bryanspelhaug2135 awesome to hear. lol. I think it’s great that you have them still. Cerwin vegas really are tremendous speakers and are fetching good money now for content ones.

Thanks for the nice comments. I appreciate them. If you can buy both blades for your saw that would be good. Try to see how it cuts on the rip with the fine tooth blade. It may be okay but it will probably burn and be tough to cut. If you have extra material to cut a little wider than you need, that would help with this test cut.

@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore That's a great idea. I've been watching more vids and saw one where they rip cut a butcher block with a fine tooth and it took like 4 minutes! I'm pretty sure I've got lower tooth blades so I'll use that for the rip and the fine tooth for the cross cut. Thanks again!!!

That sounds good. I’m sure you’ll be great doing it that way. Combo blades are good to for a lot of jobs like this. Have you used Freud Diablo blades before on your saws? ​@@projectguyprojectguy9019

@@bradenhenderson2705 no. I haven’t done anything. It works most all the time so it’s not bad. Dropping tailgate down for a second gets camera to work again if it goes out. It’s not bad.

That’s very interesting. I wonder how it got switched off. Glad you solved the problem. Thank you.

@@tommyc1400 thanks a lot TommyC1400. I’m glad you liked the work. I always caulk the doors. Both sides of possible. Sometimes the back panels are tough to get to the corners of to caulk but if we can we will. My doors have very tight grooves so the panels don’t move but I still glue them in on every door. This is a huge benefit to my doors. Then they get caulked for sure.

Sorry you feel that way. Have a nice day.

Thanks a lot. I believe you are asking about the Rockler hose. It’s flexible. Not great at volume of air flow but okay for some jobs.

Model number is in the video title.

@@kennethholmes9315 thanks a lot for the nice words. I’m glad you found this video. I am truly trying to get more videos out soon. Hopefully you will enjoy the new content.

@@anthonyopgaardmusic any drawer has to be built to account for the particular slides being used. I use undermount slides and 5/8” material for all my drawers. Whether they are like these or most often,,solid wood, they are always 3/8” less than the opening. If you have to block the inside of the cabinets to get around face frames or door hinges, it’s necessary to make the drawers even smaller. You just figure out how wide you want the blocks to be and with that you can figure out the final opening size.

@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore perfect! Thank you so much!!

@@adibespokewoodworking9758 hey there. Yes I’m extremely happy with this saw in my shop. At this point I can’t even imagine doing my work without one. I do miss my huge workbench at times but even that isn’t terrible. Are you wanting to get one too?

@@traviscole7069 you’re welcome. Thank you.

Okay the miters always get glue. Either way, quick set or titevind 2. This is absolute must for my work. You shouldn’t have them open up but you could if you’re living in an area where the air goes dry to super humid. But I’ve not seen much open up. Solid wood might have more chance of opening up. So that may be what you’re seeing.

Thank you for the nice comments. That problem is something I try to avoid. If the cabinets have a lip, I try to get rid of the lip. My cabinets don’t have lips but cheaper made stock cabinets often do. They’re annoying. If I’m refacing a kitchen, I flush those lips out and make the edges tight and flush. Then I put the moulding around the corners. But you need to be painting or staining the cabinets of course for this to work.

Hey I hope it works for good also. Let us know. Usually just opening and closing the tailgate gets it to work again. Sometimes for a year. It’s so random. Tough to know what a fix is because of that.

@@mattandkatchristie2552 I’m not sure exactly as my kit came with some. It is rubber cement. Very common from lots of stores.

It is very important to use a flexible glue, like the rubber cement. DO NOT use any form of super glue!!! (crazy glue, gorilla glue etc) You will destroy the cones if you do.

@ yes rubber cement Is what the kit comes with.

@@woodaloo11 thank you very much. I’m glad you found the video and liked it.

Thank you. I appreciate your feedback.

That’s great. I’m sure you’re going to love the saw. Is it the same saw or different? 3 phase fir a home shop?

Bad switch. They replaced it.

Yes they are great. Unfortunately as I stated in the video, you can’t buy them anymore new. You have to get them used. Craigslist or something else. You can get a sawstop guard that is pretty close to the same thing. They bought Excalibur so they have the saw guards now. But they are black and say sawstop.

Hey I pay typically about 25 per pair with clips. That’s not too bad at all. Where are located? Maybe you can find a local supplier that sells them for better price.

I'm so glad!

@@mikeoxmaul3849 it’s not good for small shops. My shop isn’t small but it’s too small for this cart. Plus I just don’t need anything to lift panels up to the saw. Glad I returned it to woodcraft.

@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore just from the angle it looked like it was a tight fit but great looking shop though! Awesome saw

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

@@dhicon45 I used to do that but find it is more annoying to deal with. Especially if a customer wants both or no doors soft close after job is finished.

@@king_cobra5492 you’re welcome.