Building the Bouchie Dory Pt. 18 - Lapstrake planking, Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- This is Episode 18 of my Building the Bouchie Dory series. In this episode we focus on lapstrake planking. We spile for and shape a set of planks. Cut the gains and do some copper riveting.
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“Dam-it” ! Spoken like a true builder.
Neat trick for spiling the plank. Always learn something new here.
Jack Rabbit that’s what I like to hear.
Mark, I like the fact that you are not afraid to realize things have to be a bit flexible as far as planking stock. My brother and I had a few “oops” moments when building the “Blanchard” Adirondack guide boat we built. The study plans stated “Not recommended for the home builder” but, the design is just SOOOO pretty!
Love the documentation!
Nice work.
Adirondack guid boats are definitely a challenging build. They pretty much include everything you should be scared of as an amateur builder.
Thank you mark for the very early morning video. Excellent demo on rivet and rove method. Your video definitely helps ease the pain of being confined to the house and for that I thank you very much. Please take care and stay well (also keep working on that left index finger as it still looks tender).
Matt Evans-Koch happy to be of service Matt.
YES! I'm locked down in Nanaimo, and I decided to start building myself a new rowboat...these couldn't be more helpful!
Random Bike Guy that’s good to hear. Have you settled on a specific design yet?
@@Nomadboatbuilding I've always wanted a dory, so I'm using your lofting videos to design one(also reading a lot of books)
Random Bike Guy great. John Gardener's Dory Book should be handy. Careful not to go too small. I had a hard time keeping the classic dory lines at this scale and the boat could have been a little beamier. It’s just a hair too tender when climbing in. Feels fine when rowing though. It¡s not a dory but consider Richard Kolin's Heidi design. It's drawn to 12' but works better at 14'. At least try to steal some basic dimensions from a proven design to work from.
@@Nomadboatbuilding oh, I like the Heidi design quite a bit, I'll have to look into that more. thanks!
Random Bike Guy if this is your first foray into boatbuilding then the Heidi is a good choice and just stretching it to 14' should take care of your design urges. If you choose to build it, I can offer a few suggestions to ease the project in a couple areas. I've built two of them so far.
Another great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Chef's kiss to the Diresta on the tape shelf!
All hail the King.
Everytime I see this in my timeline it looks like it says Douche Dory. 😂
Once you see it, you can't un-see it.
This is new to me I'm use to the lapse to the Bottom and the Edge face down. But I am from South Texas. And The Gulf of Mexico .
Well I like to explore all manner of construction. I don’t feel constrained to any particular tradition.
Very nice. I am rebuilding an old clinker boat. I only wish I had your tools and shop lol. Picked a few tricks up here so with basic tools and a lot of time, I will get there.
Alex Bowie 90% of the work gets done with the simplest set of tools.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Hi NB. The general rule for drill size is half the distance of the corner to corner measure of your nail. That is in soft wood. In oak it is the distance across the flats. Do you find that a good general guide or do you differ? I thought the first example I mentioned gave a very very tight fit of the copper nail when I was trying it out.
Alex Bowie I would say it depends on your softwoods. Around here it’s Western red cedar which can be prone to splitting if you aren't careful. For that reason I lean towards across the flats but in oak or other hardwoods, I have had more than a few decide they didn’t want to go the distance and started keeling over on me at the 3/4 home point. For that reason I go slightly larger than the flat but try to make sure some corner is still biting. If the oak is fresh out of the steambox then no problem. In fact when I was in boat school, we didn’t predrill oak ribs at all. Out of the steambox and into the boat with the nails already siting in predrilled holes in the planking. Then we would just ram them on through the hot oak. The odd rib would split but surprisingly most didn't.
Might be tedious to watch but I'm glad to see dangerous free hand table saw work. Too many namby pamby wordworking videos in the world. I rough out stem bevels by holding a circular saw sideways and using it as a rough grinder on steroids! ZOOM! I just became the 176th Like.
Great video! Liked and Subscribed. I'm building a lapstrake Alpha Dory from John Gardner's Dory Book, and hoping to record the build for Utube, your videos are a wealth of info, giving me ideas on how to video and present the project.
Awesome. I look forward to seeing them. Best of luck.
Enjoyable and informative as always. Did you start out as an instrument maker, by any chance? I fixed the rails on my boat with nails and roves. I used 100 mm spacing; I figured that showed attention to detail, 75 mm showed obsession, ha, ha.
I did not start out as an instrument maker but I did start dabbling in it about 30 years ago. I really do't have very much experience in that arena.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I just thought that you may have because I got mine when I started up, 25 years ago. I stopped making a few years back, but still do repairs and set ups.
Dale Skidmore what are you specifically referring to?
What sort of sealant do you use in between the planks? From what I understand in clinker building adhesives are a bad idea between strakes
I'm using a polysulfide caulking between the garboard plank and the next but the rest will be a dry fit. You can use flexible sealants in clinker construction, such as boat life, sikaflex, 3M 4200, etc. I would do that for traditionally built boats that are going to be trailered allot or ones that don't get regular use. Clinker built boats are supposed to be resistant to leakage on launching but how much depends on age, wear and planking species. The only thing you don't want is a rigid adhesive like epoxy unless it's plywood planking because you create the potential for planks cracking along the edge of the plank laps.
I really appreciate the info thanks!
13:58 That’s what I came here for.
You came for risky machine operations?
@@Nomadboatbuilding Ha! No, for clever sound editing.
Ha, okay. That’s good to hear.
Where did you get the backing iron you used to set the roves on the rivers?
Sean Burgess I had it made by a machine shop in Port Townsend back in my boat school days.
Ummm... sound at 7:21?
The usual racket when I try to pull anything off a shelf.
Can you put subtitles in Spanish or Portuguese? I would surely have many more views
I'll start doing that.