The Beta Stick Evo: Next Level Clip-Stick Design | Climbing Daily Ep.1375
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Get the Beta Stick Evo: bit.ly/2FaZQSa
You could find the original Beta Stick at almost every sport climbing crag. It was a tool for clipping the first bolt of a route, working a route and ensuring a climbers safety on a spaced first clip. The Evo is an upgrade, a new and improved model that we are very excited about.
The Beta Stick Evo: Next Level Clip-Stick Design | Climbing Daily Ep.1375
"If I wanted to hit the ground when I fell off a climb, I'd be a boulderer"
Have had this model for about 4 months and it's been great. One feature not mentioned is that the telescoping rod is notched along the entire length which prevents any twisting of the independent legs with respect to each other.
Very compact and fits on inside our outside of my pack w/o issue. I have the standard length. Works with larger basket hanger end carabiners such as the BD keylock Nitron.
Call users pussies or not, if this tool makes your climbing more fun and/or makes you able to climb more routes, I can’t think of a reason not to use it!
Been a tremendous fan of this over the original beta stick due to the greater rigidity of the pole, though this does not change the major issue I have had which is the head is not able to be removed and is liable to break off during transport. Still is longer than most and compacts further.
These are tremendously valuable to have at about any crag, even if the bolts are low and climbing is easier there is little effort to save an ankle or more from a misread move, breaking rock, etc., and no one at the wall will spite you for using one; many will ask to borrow for anything unfamiliar.
I bought a new standard size beta stick evo off a fallow climber today (much smaller logo sticker than shown, but seems to be the new style). I found the hardest move to be trying to remove the entire QuickDraw with the method shown. If you’re not super careful, the gate opens too far and you just load your rope onto the top ‘biner. But that is actually a terrific way to add a rope to the bottom ‘biner if the method Matt showed is too difficult. Haven’t had it outside yet, but it seems super convenient thus far.
I just replaced from the older Standard version (which I was borrowing from a mate), it's the subtle improvements that make it good and worth the purchase.
1) the locking keys make it easier, and ensures that they don't slide down when reaching up for a clip
2) the hole is big enough for a quickdraw, making it easier to attach to a climber going bolt-to-bolt
3) when collapsed, it is smaller than the older version (by a few centimeters). This makes it easier to pack into a kit bag for air travel.
4) when fully extended, it is slightly linger than the older version (again, by a few centimeters)
5) when fully extended, it feels slightly more steady and doesn't 'bow' as much
I got one of these when i visited the uk last year. never used anything else but climb with people who had a home made one and mine is way easier to use. took me a few goes to figure it out and haven't had to remove a draw but been pleased with it.
The last part, removing a quickdraw seems soo easy on the video, but it's SOO HARD, you are a bit too low, no enough strength to open the quickdraw, a bit too high, the rope goes inside, pull a bit too much, the rope goes inside.
It's still very nice, I love my Beta Stick and don't go to the crag without it, just a heads-up so you don't spend 15min like me trying to remove it
I left a very similar comment- I wonder how yours worked out? I'm taking mine out into the field in a few days.
I tried it a few months ago when we got rained out and had to strip - it was literally easier to just clipstick up to the anchor.
Agreed. The suggested method for removing a draw with the beta-stick actually made me laugh. It would be impossible if the stick was more than half extended, since the top few extensions are so wobbly.
Super clip is king.
Yeah when I saw that I immediately thought that was gonna be wayyy harder than it looked. In 2021 I would personally recommend the Kailas clip up 3.
@@pr3historic647 I totally agree. Thought, I wonder in which situation you can need to remove the first/second point only? Anyway I can't imagine doing this for half of a full route and I would prefer to leave a quick link on the route.
Getting into sport climbing this looks like a good piece of equipment. Thank you cheers from Colorado
This is the wonkiest gadget I've ever owned! However- once you get the hang, it works really good. Here's my advice: Mine worked with both types of carabiners without adjustment (yay!). Put the carabiner in first, then the rope, then lock the gate. Otherwise, fiddle with it a bunch. Practice all three operations at home, not in the field. I am going to love this.
ah yes the betastick
my nickname in highschool
I received mine a few days ago purchased from Epic TV and I can say that I feel much more confident now, especially when I'm facing the rocky ground below me and the first bolt several meters away above me. I'd rather listen to someone screaming at me about climbing ethics than listen to myself screaming in pain over a broken ankle.
I already have a super clip, but you can do almost al this with a super clip. I’d never thought of getting the draw back like that. So cool
You can retrieve much easier with a super clip. Just grab both ends of the rope to pull the draw tight and push the super clip back on to the bolt-side carabiner, then lift off the bolt, reverse of placing the draw.
Wider dogbones, like the older Petzl ones, can be a little tricky, but still very possible. The technique I use is to place the super clip tongs over the thin edge of the draw and twist it onto the dogbone at the base of the bolt-side carabiner, then push up onto the metal until it clicks into place.
I don't consider myself particularly dexterous and I can do it pretty quick with one hand holding the rope tight and the other manipulating the stick.
Wooowww!! Looks awesome! The new one is the one to go for sure.
I got the 6,48m edition. Great! I recommend practicing how to remove the carabiner.
how do you do it
That crag looks amazing
This is in Chamonix France
wow nice tip, safe climbing to everyone...
06:59 for the immature amongst us
haha had to go back and look for that :)
Classic
This stick is so fiddly. Super clip is so much better.
Instead of a painters pole, I recommend getting and aluminum one made for cleaning ceiling dust. They tend to be lighter and cheaper and come in more compact sizes than the painter poles. Obviously not as small as the beta stick, but much sturdier when trying to make awkward, full extension clips, plus I use mine as a walking stick and it still fits in the trunk of my Toyota Corolla.
Second that, the super clip is much better at removing draws
That clip system is exactly how my extremely high end telescope stand adjusts the legs very solid extremely adjustable and hella strong
Raven Tor is now so polished that bold clips are now verging on suicidal clips due to polish. One solution is to add bolts lower down on those routes
I bought this after a trip to Smith Rocks, where the first bolts are incredibly high. Unfortunately, the clip doesn't actually seem to work with a lot of quickdraws. We tried it with Black Diamond Positron, Edrid Slash, and Wild Country Helium. The clip is just too big for these carabiners, so I'm thinking of returning mine. Also, There is a good reason the video doesn't show the lasso method in the field, your route needs to be overhanging for their to be any chance for this to work (Especially if you have a slightly narrower rope).
This was very helpful
Pongoose looks a lot easier to use. Definitely considering getting one as the Blue Mountains have some fairly high 1st clips and I like my ankles!
i want to stick-clip my way through the entire route but would that be considered just top-roping?
A0
Who cares? Just go for it
They come in a compact and standard size. If you just got the one, which and why?
I recommend looking at the Pongoose before considering buying this - much easier to use and much nicer in general!
It costs a fortune though and they slap delivery charges on top
1:10 is this clip from Tonsai beach, Thailand?
Yes
I have been using one for a month now they are amazing
One of the plastic clips broke on mine for no apparent reason.
Merci
Can anyone tell me how heavy these are?
Pongoose
Nuff said
No actually, not enough said at all. What are the benefits, what are the drawbacks? If you are going to try and act all superior, how about showing us that it's the case rather than making empty statements.
@@MattyDredge
Pongoose:
Most advanced head design of any clip stick on the market. Works with all draws not just fat solid gates. Gets all those odd angle awkward bolts. Also has best method of clipping just rope.
Shaft is strong and isn't prone to getting dirt into it and jamming the barrel.
It also doesn't break carrying it on a plane.
Beta stick:
The people who brought you hacked up chopping boards.
Happy now :) ?
@@dannygrout92 some of your points are only applicable to the old beta, not the evo which this video is about, eg. the evo is adjustable for wire gates so not just for solid
@@MattyDredge I've used it dozens of times, my draws close and bounce out all the time. Literally never happened with the pongose.
Nuff said. Bye
@@dannygrout92 user error. My miniwire karabs are very secure in it
is this the trango?
Trango import them from the UK and they get rebranded as the Trango evo stick for them
Roba da focozzoni
That is a cool device!!!
you mean stick clip?
It’s called Beta because alphas don’t use clip-sticks
This made my day!
Has Alex Honnold ever complained when you overtook him on a free solo route? I mean you are so a big alpha ;)
FragCool That doesn’t make any fucking sense
Ya, been climbing since 2001, I’ve never even heard of one till today
@@heli400 I don't believe you. What planet are you climbing on?
Check out Pongoose
$16 stick clip - 1 extendable painter pole + 1 metal spring clamp + 1 hose clamp. Takes 5 minutes to make and you won't show up to the crag looking like you've never climbed outside before.
Yeah, that's the way! The more DIY you get on these stuff the more Pro you look ahah!
Or if you don't care about what other people think about you, you can get whatever you'd prefer to use.
Who cares if you've climbed outside before??
Screw ethics.
Can you get a father away from the camera so we can't see u
My friends call this a cheat stick
Wasted money