Excellent tutorial! I now understand why you would use a cable cast on at the edge to make the neck and join two shoulders - you need a cast on that requires only one strand of yarn. Brilliant!
Why is it that when I add stitches in the middle of my work I ALWAYS get a gap between the two sections (existing stitches and added ones). I've tried pulling the thread tighter, but it doesn't seem that work. What am I doing wrong, please?
Thanks for this Roxanne. I’m casting on at the end of the row (which happens to be the centre front) BEFORE I join for knitting in the round. The backwards loop seems to be much too loose. I’ve checked your “tips” video but I’m thinking that the first row will still be too loose when I have to pick up for the neck band. Will the regular cast on create a ridge?
What do you consider to be a "regular cast on"? You can use any CO that requires a single strand of yarn, which would include knitting on or the cable CO. If you're concerned about a ridge, you can knit up some swatches with different edges to see which one you like best. The backwards loop CO produces the same edge as a long tail CO. If you CO fewer than you need, and create m1 increases in the slack between sts on the following round to make up the difference, the edge will be much less loose. You will likely also notice that the edge improves after you've knit a few rounds.
i would love to see a video that shows how to bind off(pocket) and at the same time to work a band along straight edge for the entire pocket. Love ALL your videos! Thanks
Thank you for this! I'm currently working on knitting a vintage sweater pattern, and it has a so-called "bramble" stitch, which requires knitting 1, passing it back over to the left needle, and then casting on 8 stitches. You then pass the 8th over the 9th, 7th over the 9th, etc. until you have the 9th left, which you then knit. It seems similar to a bobble stitch, but the method doesn't quite match the ones I've seen for that. I'm struggling a bit, though, with having the bramble stitches look consistent and round and not having holes around them. In swatching, I tried both the cable cast on (seems more likely to have been used in 1949) and the backwards loop cast on, but I'm not sure either results in a good stitch (either in consistency or general shape). Any thoughts on what might be causing the stitches to be more elongated than round (tension issues perhaps?) and/or thoughts on what might be a better method to try? Thanks again for the great technique video!
@@RoxanneRichardson Oh thanks! I'll try that one and see if it produces a cleaner looking stitch. I'm still new enough to knitting that your video was the first time I'd seen that method, so I'm very glad you covered it too. Thanks again!
First time Yoga Socks knitter (per daughter's request) and working through alternate bind off and cast on methods to deal with heel opening and toe edging. Not a fan of thumb cast on to replace working stitches required for left side of work. Binding off in pattern seems more pleasing than knitting back and forth with waste yarn - picking up all those stitches removing w/y was a PITA! Seeking perfect yoga sock pattern techniques.
I have two videos that might make the techniques you mentioned more palatable. This one is an alternative method for knitting across sts with waste yarn. Waste yarn is still involved, but the opening is created at the time the waste yarn is used, so you don't have the issue of PU sts on both sides of the same span of waste yarn. ruclips.net/video/tFIOJnCccm4/видео.html The other is an approach to dealing with working across sts CO with the backwards loop to make the results come out better: ruclips.net/video/aMKfwZe1CR8/видео.html You are never beholden to the techniques called for in a pattern. Find the methods that work best for you and substitute them in, when desired.
@@RoxanneRichardson I think I did try your fix for the waste yarn knitting for the #2 sock. Working on 4th (2nd pair) and both 2nds tested out a different technique than pattern suggested :) Still thinking someone out there has already "invented this wheel"(perfect yoga sock pattern)! Your channel continues to be my go-to for IS THERE A BETTER WAY? :)
I need help!I have a situation with my ragland sweater. I have 5 stitches cast off on sleves, but not on Mt front and back. I'm not sure about seaming this sweater together.
I used this backward loop cast on - it seems to have worked nicely. Now I'm seeing that I will need to pick up and knit from that neckline, later. How do I pick up? It's totally different from the surrounding stitches. Is this a disaster?
Hi Rox....I'm new to your videos and I enjoy them a lot! Would you consider doing a tutorial on knitting with two strands of yarn? I have a project coming up that I'll be using a mohair/silk blend, held double. This would be a simple procedure, but I would appreciate if you could present any tips or tricks to make the knitting go smoother. :-)
Thanks for a good video. In your last casual Friday you mentioned that you had done a provisional cast on for the sleeves on your 1920's sweater. Could you show how i a video?
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks I know this video and have used it many times 🙂 I was just thinking if you have adapted the method when you do in at the beginning and end of a row like when you added sleeves to your 1920's sweater. 🤔
Hi Roxanne. Very interesting! I do have a question. When you did the knitted cast at the beginning of the video you put the stitch on by pointing the needle down into the loop. When you did it at the end of the video adding 3 stitches you brought the needle from the underneath and then up to put the stitches on the needle. This is how I do the knitted cast on when I use it. Is there any particular reason for doing it two different ways? Thanks!
The way I did it the second time is more efficient, because you don't have to take the needle out and reinsert it for each stitch. When I'm demonstrating slowly, I tend to do it the first way because in that situation I find it easier to demonstrate and to show what's going on. I spent some time a couple of years ago researching to see if there really were two ways of doing it, or if my efficient way was "wrong"! (It's not)
Thanks so much! I’ve always done it the second way and most of the time I see it demonstrated that’s how I see it done. But every once in a while I see someone do it the first way and I’ve always wondered why. And I knew that you would most likely have done some research and have an answer! And I was right! Therefore, you were the perfect person to ask. I don’t do the knitted or cable cast on all that often once I learned the long tail cast on but it’s good to know that I’m doing it correctly. I find all the cast ons and bind offs fascinating! They really do make a difference in the look and the amount of stretch they give. Thank you Roxanne!💕
Hmmm... Back neck of top down sweater working flat for shaping. Pattern says to cast on at end of RS row. I used the knitted cast on to cast on the piece. I wanted to continue the knitted cast on for the added stitches around the front of the neck. You used the backward loop at the end of the row cast on. If I turn the work to do a knitted cast on, I will be on the WS/PurlSide of the work doing a knit stitch. Does that change the look of that edge where I am going to pick up collar stitches? Or do I do a purl cast on? Or? can you tell I am confused. (Sock knitter trying first raglan top down sweater after yoke sweater success.) I am laughing at myself right now. Yikes
The CO edge will be inside the sweater after you PU sts. I would suggest knitting a couple of swatches, and trying one using knitting on and the other with purling on, and see if you notice any difference after PU sts along that edge. Use whichever one you prefer.
I need help with increasing sts: My instructions say increase 1 st at each end of 3rd row and every following 5rh row. Does that mean after increasing the 3rd row, I only increase in every 5th row after that or do I continue increasing the 3rd and 5th rows?
The instructions are to increases at each end of 3rd row and every *following 5th* row. If you were supposed to increase after every following 3rd and 5th row, the "following" would have come earlier in the instruction.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks that is what I ended up doing but it is still a little murky. That move is the most important thing to watch so had to do it a lot of times. But thanks for posting up for us all to learn.
One thumb up is not enough for this video, I wish I could give it two thumbs up!!! ❤❤❤
As always, great! Nothing left to say, you've got it totally fine! Thank you so much, dear! Be blessed!
Excellent tutorial! I now understand why you would use a cable cast on at the edge to make the neck and join two shoulders - you need a cast on that requires only one strand of yarn. Brilliant!
Thank you so much ! I finally learned how to add stitches after binding off stitches on a thumb gusset and I didn't have a large hole.
There is a little gap when I cast on mid round. Any tips to avoid the gap? Thanks.
I find your instructions so easy to follow - thanks!
Why is it that when I add stitches in the middle of my work I ALWAYS get a gap between the two sections (existing stitches and added ones). I've tried pulling the thread tighter, but it doesn't seem that work. What am I doing wrong, please?
Madam ur method of casting on is very useful & easy to understand. Thanks
Thanks for this Roxanne. I’m casting on at the end of the row (which happens to be the centre front) BEFORE I join for knitting in the round. The backwards loop seems to be much too loose. I’ve checked your “tips” video but I’m thinking that the first row will still be too loose when I have to pick up for the neck band. Will the regular cast on create a ridge?
What do you consider to be a "regular cast on"? You can use any CO that requires a single strand of yarn, which would include knitting on or the cable CO. If you're concerned about a ridge, you can knit up some swatches with different edges to see which one you like best. The backwards loop CO produces the same edge as a long tail CO. If you CO fewer than you need, and create m1 increases in the slack between sts on the following round to make up the difference, the edge will be much less loose. You will likely also notice that the edge improves after you've knit a few rounds.
i would love to see a video that shows how to bind off(pocket) and at the same time to work a band along straight edge for the entire pocket. Love ALL your videos! Thanks
Thank you!! I was stuck not knowing how to cable cast on!
Very helpful. I am knitting again after some years, and starting to remember techniques I used to be familiar with. But what is cable cast on?
Thank you for this! I'm currently working on knitting a vintage sweater pattern, and it has a so-called "bramble" stitch, which requires knitting 1, passing it back over to the left needle, and then casting on 8 stitches. You then pass the 8th over the 9th, 7th over the 9th, etc. until you have the 9th left, which you then knit. It seems similar to a bobble stitch, but the method doesn't quite match the ones I've seen for that. I'm struggling a bit, though, with having the bramble stitches look consistent and round and not having holes around them. In swatching, I tried both the cable cast on (seems more likely to have been used in 1949) and the backwards loop cast on, but I'm not sure either results in a good stitch (either in consistency or general shape). Any thoughts on what might be causing the stitches to be more elongated than round (tension issues perhaps?) and/or thoughts on what might be a better method to try? Thanks again for the great technique video!
Knitting on would have been a very common method of casting on at that time.
@@RoxanneRichardson Oh thanks! I'll try that one and see if it produces a cleaner looking stitch. I'm still new enough to knitting that your video was the first time I'd seen that method, so I'm very glad you covered it too. Thanks again!
First time Yoga Socks knitter (per daughter's request) and working through alternate bind off and cast on methods to deal with heel opening and toe edging. Not a fan of thumb cast on to replace working stitches required for left side of work. Binding off in pattern seems more pleasing than knitting back and forth with waste yarn - picking up all those stitches removing w/y was a PITA! Seeking perfect yoga sock pattern techniques.
I have two videos that might make the techniques you mentioned more palatable.
This one is an alternative method for knitting across sts with waste yarn. Waste yarn is still involved, but the opening is created at the time the waste yarn is used, so you don't have the issue of PU sts on both sides of the same span of waste yarn. ruclips.net/video/tFIOJnCccm4/видео.html
The other is an approach to dealing with working across sts CO with the backwards loop to make the results come out better: ruclips.net/video/aMKfwZe1CR8/видео.html
You are never beholden to the techniques called for in a pattern. Find the methods that work best for you and substitute them in, when desired.
@@RoxanneRichardson I think I did try your fix for the waste yarn knitting for the #2 sock. Working on 4th (2nd pair) and both 2nds tested out a different technique than pattern suggested :) Still thinking someone out there has already "invented this wheel"(perfect yoga sock pattern)! Your channel continues to be my go-to for IS THERE A BETTER WAY? :)
Thank you, so helpful! Great tutorial Roxanne
I need help!I have a situation with my ragland sweater. I have 5 stitches cast off on sleves, but not on Mt front and back.
I'm not sure about seaming this sweater together.
I used this backward loop cast on - it seems to have worked nicely. Now I'm seeing that I will need to pick up and knit from that neckline, later. How do I pick up? It's totally different from the surrounding stitches. Is this a disaster?
thank you!! 🌻💕
Highly appreciated!
Hi. Do you have any videos how to cast off stitches at the end of the row PURLWISE (WS) please? Thanks
Hi Rox....I'm new to your videos and I enjoy them a lot! Would you consider doing a tutorial on knitting with two strands of yarn? I have a project coming up that I'll be using a mohair/silk blend, held double. This would be a simple procedure, but I would appreciate if you could present any tips or tricks to make the knitting go smoother. :-)
Thanks for a good video. In your last casual Friday you mentioned that you had done a provisional cast on for the sleeves on your 1920's sweater. Could you show how i a video?
I used the method shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/cTxQAvV52sE/видео.html
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks I know this video and have used it many times 🙂 I was just thinking if you have adapted the method when you do in at the beginning and end of a row like when you added sleeves to your 1920's sweater. 🤔
Hi Roxanne. Very interesting! I do have a question. When you did the knitted cast at the beginning of the video you put the stitch on by pointing the needle down into the loop. When you did it at the end of the video adding 3 stitches you brought the needle from the underneath and then up to put the stitches on the needle. This is how I do the knitted cast on when I use it. Is there any particular reason for doing it two different ways? Thanks!
The way I did it the second time is more efficient, because you don't have to take the needle out and reinsert it for each stitch. When I'm demonstrating slowly, I tend to do it the first way because in that situation I find it easier to demonstrate and to show what's going on. I spent some time a couple of years ago researching to see if there really were two ways of doing it, or if my efficient way was "wrong"! (It's not)
Thanks so much! I’ve always done it the second way and most of the time I see it demonstrated that’s how I see it done. But every once in a while I see someone do it the first way and I’ve always wondered why. And I knew that you would most likely have done some research and have an answer! And I was right! Therefore, you were the perfect person to ask. I don’t do the knitted or cable cast on all that often once I learned the long tail cast on but it’s good to know that I’m doing it correctly. I find all the cast ons and bind offs fascinating! They really do make a difference in the look and the amount of stretch they give. Thank you Roxanne!💕
Hmmm... Back neck of top down sweater working flat for shaping. Pattern says to cast on at end of RS row. I used the knitted cast on to cast on the piece. I wanted to continue the knitted cast on for the added stitches around the front of the neck. You used the backward loop at the end of the row cast on. If I turn the work to do a knitted cast on, I will be on the WS/PurlSide of the work doing a knit stitch. Does that change the look of that edge where I am going to pick up collar stitches? Or do I do a purl cast on? Or? can you tell I am confused. (Sock knitter trying first raglan top down sweater after yoke sweater success.) I am laughing at myself right now. Yikes
The CO edge will be inside the sweater after you PU sts. I would suggest knitting a couple of swatches, and trying one using knitting on and the other with purling on, and see if you notice any difference after PU sts along that edge. Use whichever one you prefer.
I need help with increasing sts: My instructions say increase 1 st at each end of 3rd row and every following 5rh row. Does that mean after increasing the 3rd row, I only increase in every 5th row after that or do I continue increasing the 3rd and 5th rows?
The instructions are to increases at each end of 3rd row and every *following 5th* row. If you were supposed to increase after every following 3rd and 5th row, the "following" would have come earlier in the instruction.
Thank you so much for your promptness. You have saved me from making a mistake and I appreciate your insight.
Thank you, very helpful
Thanks again🌸🌼🌹
💗💐💗💐💗💐💗💐💗
Unfortunately the backward loop demonstration is too fast to follow!
You can slow down playback speed by clicking on the gear icon at the bottom of the video playback screen.
The knitting on stitch is way too fast! No can see😔
You can always control the playback speed of a video by clicking on the gear icon at the bottom of the playback screen.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks that is what I ended up doing but it is still a little murky. That move is the most important thing to watch so had to do it a lot of times. But thanks for posting up for us all to learn.
A lot of talking but you should slow down and show for beginner.