Surfing take off and handling the DROP (suitable for longboard and shortboard)

We have discussed about board center balancing concept, paddling, pop up, take off spot, and today is about handling the DROP right after pop up, before stance or wipe out.
When you are facing a drop from the rising wave face, that is where your board pick up the speed, it is not a wipe out yet, before you are out of the board - therefore get the concept right and try to manage it.
Here are the 3 points when you are taking off steep, and one method to ride it with low center of gravity (suitable for long board and short board)
Do share with us what other method to ride these steep rise. Thank you.
Ah Gan
Dive Surf Yoga instructor

[@wildawakening1676]

You are the first person to explain this in this way (the fear of the drop). Exactly what I needed to understand. Thanks!

[@stevosaurusrekd2396]

Great info thanks!

[@mrjjwells2]

This video is solid gold, thank you Ah.

[@pumapaw2020]

2024 cool stuff guy, mahalos

[@X-Fluid]

This was very useful. So simple, thank you 😊